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Thread: Home made UV dyes

  1. #151
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    Here is 1 drop of GREEN + GREEN/YELLOW. This stuff is VERY strong! More updates as soon as my LED strips get here.


  2. #152
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    That UV green dye looks really awesome.

    I've been running for more than a year without any dye after my experience with Swiftech HydrX.

    I'm looking for an UV green dye that doesn't come with any other chemicals mixed.

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by A-Grey View Post
    That UV green dye looks really awesome.

    I've been running for more than a year without any dye after my experience with Swiftech HydrX.

    I'm looking for an UV green dye that doesn't come with any other chemicals mixed.
    This is probably your only option then

  4. #154
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    I've been running fine for the past year with océ cooling liquid. It's a coolant for océ digital printing machines.

    I's already green as you can see in the picture but it isn't UV reactive.



    It contains water, propylene glycol, sebacic acid, disodium salt, benzoic acid, potassium salt and borax.

    I would like to make it UV reactive.

    Is it possible to do that with this mixture of chemicals?

    If it's possible what UV dye should I try to add to it?

  5. #155
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    Personally, why not just use the dye with distilled water + a drop of PT Nuke if you're worried about algae.

  6. #156
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    It contains water, propylene glycol, sebacic acid, disodium salt, benzoic acid, potassium salt and borax.
    and a partridge in a pear tree ........

    That is close to the same stuff the Some other company's use in there products.How ever turning it UV will be disastrous to the liquid and is not worth it.

    Ive pulled all sales of my Dyes for the moment as im working on making them better. Ive repacked them and im all so working on making them even more UV reactive.
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  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlwood37 View Post
    and a partridge in a pear tree ........

    That is close to the same stuff the Some other company's use in there products.How ever turning it UV will be disastrous to the liquid and is not worth it.
    What would happen if I turned it in UV?

  8. #158
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    Your gonna get brake down. The UV will react with the propylene glycol and you will get partials appearing in the loop. This in turn will block you water cooling blocks and create a build up if you don't get the right mix. Personally avoid like the plague.

    If you going to Do it regardless of what im telling you, you will need to use a Acid based dye so that it will mixed well. If you use a water based dye it will brake up with in days.

    Personally it up to you self some time's a cheap alternative will tun out to be expensive repair in the long run.
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  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlwood37 View Post
    Your gonna get brake down. The UV will react with the propylene glycol and you will get partials appearing in the loop. This in turn will block you water cooling blocks and create a build up if you don't get the right mix. Personally avoid like the plague.
    I know what you mean.

    If you going to Do it regardless of what im telling you, you will need to use a Acid based dye so that it will mixed well. If you use a water based dye it will brake up with in days.

    Personally it up to you self some time's a cheap alternative will tun out to be expensive repair in the long run.
    I'm not going to try it. I just wanted to know what would happen if I would turn it in to UV.

    If I'm using distilled water with a drop of PT Nuke does this also protects against corrosion or do I also need something else if I want protection against corrosion?

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by A-Grey View Post
    I know what you mean.

    If I'm using distilled water with a drop of PT Nuke does this also protects against corrosion or do I also need something else if I want protection against corrosion?
    You need a inhibitor for corrosion PT Nuke is a biocide. The two main things to run in loops are 1 biocide and 2 inhibitor. and water of course. every thing else after that is for looks only.
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  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlwood37 View Post
    You need a inhibitor for corrosion PT Nuke is a biocide. The two main things to run in loops are 1 biocide and 2 inhibitor. and water of course. every thing else after that is for looks only.
    What inhibitor should I use with PT Nuke?

    Do I need one if I don't have mixed metals? Everything is copper.

    What about using a silver coin instead of PT Nuke? Some guys say it's even better than PT Nuke.

    I'm asking a lot of questions but I want to be sure that I don't mix anything that doesn't work together.
    Last edited by Alien Grey; 09-21-2009 at 12:07 PM.

  12. #162
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    if not useing mixed metals you dont need inhibitor just use PT nuke will be fine.

    Ive been checking out the clear UV Blue that was sent out. there is nothing wrong with the samples ppl have bought you need to use a good UV light Some CCFL (cheap ones are crap).

    Under each glass i have 4 high powerd Black light Leds. When it was compared to competitors UV Clear Blue 1 to 2 drops was only need per 1.5 Ltrs of water.

    If how ever your not satisfied with it please send back for a full refund (if bought on e bay).
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  13. #163
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    I can't buy PT Nuke in Belgium.

    I'm going to try with a water wetting agent.

    It has a corrosion inhibitor and protects against algae and lowers the surface tension of water.

    Dosage; +/-5%

    Cont.: 5-Chloro-2-Methyl-3(2H)-Isothiazolinone-2-Methyl-3(2H)-Isothiazolinone

    Would it be possible to use an UV dye with this product?

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    Quote Originally Posted by A-Grey View Post
    I can't buy PT Nuke in Belgium.

    I'm going to try with a water wetting agent.

    It has a corrosion inhibitor and protects against algae and lowers the surface tension of water.

    Dosage; +/-5%

    Cont.: 5-Chloro-2-Methyl-3(2H)-Isothiazolinone-2-Methyl-3(2H)-Isothiazolinone

    Would it be possible to use an UV dye with this product?
    Go to a pet store that sells fish supplies and get some algae control. I use a product made by "Jungle" called "No More Algae" and have not had a single problem using a drop or two per loop with a drop top off about every 6 months.
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  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
    Go to a pet store that sells fish supplies and get some algae control. I use a product made by "Jungle" called "No More Algae" and have not had a single problem using a drop or two per loop with a drop top off about every 6 months.
    Thanks for the advice but I would like to keep the water wetting agent in the loop.

    The temperature dropped with 3° Celsius under full load with LinX.

    With océ cooling liquid it reached 51° Celsius with my Q9650@4.05GHz. With the water wetting agent it reaches 48° Celsius.

  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diverge View Post
    I need some suggestions for the amount of clear UV blue drops I should put in my loop. I just redid the whole water loop, and used a little less then a 1/2 gallon of distilled water. First I put like 4 drops, and hardly see any color in my T3 res w/ the lights out. then I put like 4 more (8 total) and I still don't see much.

    I put like 4 drops in a 1/2 filled 0.5L bottle of water (so I guess like 0.15L of water) as a test, and can see it. It's not crazy bright or anything.

    Are my expectations too high, or am I just not putting enough in?

    AHHHH u got a clear UV sample?

    Quote Originally Posted by mlwood37 View Post
    Clear UV blue is very strong but if your lighting isnt good you not going to see much. 1 to 2 drops is enough for most loops blue clear UV blue needs excellent UV lighting to work well.

    Been on hols just got back.
    :O

    Im hurt..

    u know how long ive been itching for that...

    Quote Originally Posted by Diverge View Post
    In my actual loop, I see nothing in my T3, no blue whatsoever. First I put like 4 drops in, didn't see anything. So I put 4 more last night, and let it run all day thinking maybe it would mix. came home from work and still nothing. so I went crazy and put like 20+ more drops in it, and still see nothing.
    ... should of been almost instant.

    Since our loops work on equilibrium, it should of mixed within the first 10-15 min.

    UGH... i want clear UV. :\

    Quote Originally Posted by mlwood37 View Post
    Send me a PM with you address ill send you some new stuff out.
    But what ill do just for you ills end you a new sample out that 50X stronger than what you have. .


    Guess i shouldn't of gone into hiding.. LOL...

    Quote Originally Posted by A-Grey View Post
    I can't buy PT Nuke in Belgium.
    Look for copper safe at a fish store.

    Bascially your going after the copper II sulfate.

    Or if ur friend or anyone has access to a lab, you can get Copper II Hydroxide powerder and mix it with water to make your own PT Nuke.

    You want to use TINY TINY concentrations. Like no more then 5 drops.
    Last edited by NaeKuh; 09-23-2009 at 03:50 PM.
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  17. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    AHHHH u got a clear UV sample?
    I didn't get a sample, I bought it from his ebay store

    ... but yeah, I see no blue tint or anything through my T3 res, with a UV light right behind it. I dunno if it has to do with the T3's plastic, or that I need to put a whole bottle of it in my loop.

    I think I've given up on it, someone else needs to try clear UV in a computer loop, and not just in a glass cup with a powerful UV light directly on it.
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  18. #168
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    Chiming in

    I bought the clear UV stuff from him via ebay.

    When I first got it, I had the same exact problem as Diverge, 10+ drops in a glass of water and nothing. I was using a 2 kinds of LED UV at first.

    Mlwood stood by his product and said it was tested and not defective. So I ended up going to micro center and buying some cheap $6 UV CCFL's then bam, 1 drop and bright and nice glow.

    The stuff works fine, its just needs a "right UV" light. I am kinda of puzzled that UV LED's had no affect but some cheap CCFL's did the trick.

  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diverge View Post
    I think I've given up on it, someone else needs to try clear UV in a computer loop, and not just in a glass cup with a powerful UV light directly on it.
    Ive been asking him for a sample or a means to buy a sample.

    I have the low UV range (Original AC Ryan UV CCFL, back when they were good.).
    I dont like bright lights, but i use the UV to line trace my stuff inside my computers.

    Here is the low range:


    *kicking the can*
    i just need a sample.
    Or point me to where i can get one.
    Last edited by NaeKuh; 09-23-2009 at 04:18 PM.
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  20. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    Ive been asking him for a sample or a means to buy a sample.

    I have the low UV range (Original AC Ryan UV CCFL, back when they were good.).
    I dont like bright lights, but i use the UV to line trace my stuff inside my computers.

    Here is the low range:


    *kicking the can*
    i just need a sample.
    Or point me to where i can get one.
    NaeKuh PM me you address. Sample will be sent in morning. this is the NEW one that no ones seen yet in new bottles. (you WILL be the first to see it)

    Diverge Ive doubled checked the UV blue under normal CCFL today and it works well even opened up bottles for retail and tested it out it worked. How ever like i say i will refund you all you money inc post and packing if you not happy. I don't mind.

    The amount of work in getting these dyes isnt easy but i defo don't what to upset any one hence i can refund you or send you out a even stronger sample but please check you UV light as UV Blue needs a decent CCFL for it to work.

    Different CCFL has different spectrum of light this is the same with all clear blue's dye's. I can send you a 2ml sample of Pure Clear concentrate Clear blue. 1 drop is enough for 5 Ltrs of water. Diverge Ill do this to your self at no charge what so ever.

    All pics you have seen on here are run With just 4 UV Leds (no light tricks) i how ever do now own a 12" Tube UV Black light as well for testing purposes only of the dyes.
    Last edited by mlwood37; 09-23-2009 at 08:15 PM.
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  21. #171
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    any one else got any pics of the dyes
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  22. #172
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    we got no samples yet...

    LOL i was gonna pm you mlwood..

    but i havent received anything yet.
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  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    we got no samples yet...

    LOL i was gonna pm you mlwood..

    but i havent received anything yet.
    I already send him a PM a few weeks ago to ask for a sample or how I could buy one but he doesn't reply.

    I can't blame him because he really got screwed by some guys around here that just took the free sample but never showed some pics.

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by A-Grey View Post
    I already send him a PM a few weeks ago to ask for a sample or how I could buy one but he doesn't reply.

    I can't blame him because he really got screwed by some guys around here that just took the free sample but never showed some pics.
    agreed

    That's why i was telling people that there rude in the earlier post.
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  25. #175
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    I also sent him a message, i really want to buy some of those dye ! but no reply sadly :x

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