Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[canadiantire]

The metal plugs that come with the T3 are a bit big (to my eye anyway) when the face plate is installed. There are smaller diameter rounded ones that look better, and also the clear LED plugs that come with it (but leave the cap off) look pretty good too.

I drew up a very simple and slightly smaller metal plug but it will be a while before they arrive.



not too expensive either. May want to order those or extra clear LED plugs if your using the 2 that come with the T3.

http://www.primochill.com/primochill...sl=EN&currency

Can someone post some pics show the T3 in dark with LED?

I confuse how to put the LED at front

[millertime359]

Can someone post some pics show the T3 in dark with LED?

I confuse how to put the LED at front

You use those clear plugs, place the LED in the hole, thread the cable through the slot on the cap and tighten the cap down.

Then just loop the wire back into the machine and plug it in.

[ptrout]

Feedback/question: I have a modded T3 (not sure if this affects performance)

My main loop as it turns out is very very very restrictive. And the my 2nd is almost unobstructed(its just a internal feedback loop to drive waterfall affect of the custom resvervoir).

Since water goes with the path of least resistance, its seems like if there is any difference in the flow path, that water will only really flow in the open loop, while there is very little flow in the other.

Has anyone else experienced this ? Are you guys balancing restriction of the loops at all ?

[BoxGods]

You use those clear plugs, place the LED in the hole, thread the cable through the slot on the cap and tighten the cap down.

Then just loop the wire back into the machine and plug it in.

It helps if you give the wire like 3 or 4 turns counter clockwise before you slide it into the plug so that when you turn the cap to tighten it down your unwinding wire and end with it neutral...does that make sense...???

Feedback/question: I have a modded T3 (not sure if this affects performance)

My main loop as it turns out is very very very restrictive. And the my 2nd is almost unobstructed(its just a internal feedback loop to drive waterfall affect of the custom resvervoir).

Since water goes with the path of least resistance, its seems like if there is any difference in the flow path, that water will only really flow in the open loop, while there is very little flow in the other.

Has anyone else experienced this ? Are you guys balancing restriction of the loops at all ?

Actually the PEC acts a bit like a load or pressure balance...obviously it would not equalize 2 loops as far apart pressure wise as yours are but it makes having the loops exactly balanced a lot less critical.

Without knowing all the details of your set up (and even then it's still a lot of educated guesses) there is no way to say for sure yes or no. Have you run the set up and checked out your temps? Worst case you may have to reroute your loops to move an item or two off the "really really really" restrictive loop. Keep in mind that the T3 can move 2 times the water of other D5 tops in some setups so even if your restrictive loop was only getting 35% of the split between loops you might still have enough flow. Run it and see. You could also use a small clamp (aka a clothes pin) and constrict the lin into the waterfall and observer your temps to see if restricting that loops lowers temps on the other one. If it does, I would start with movning a rad or two from the cooling loop to the waterfall loop.

If your waterfall rez is one Of Warren's he can tell you how much flow you need for the waterfall to look good.

[ptrout]

Actually the PEC acts a bit like a load or pressure balance...obviously it would not equalize 2 loops as far apart pressure wise as yours are but it makes having the loops exactly balanced a lot less critical.

Without knowing all the details of your set up (and even then it's still a lot of educated guesses) there is no way to say for sure yes or no. Have you run the set up and checked out your temps? Worst case you may have to reroute your loops to move an item or two off the "really really really" restrictive loop. Keep in mind that the T3 can move 2 times the water of other D5 tops in some setups so even if your restrictive loop was only getting 35% of the split between loops you might still have enough flow. Run it and see. You could also use a small clamp (aka a clothes pin) and constrict the lin into the waterfall and observer your temps to see if restricting that loops lowers temps on the other one. If it does, I would start with movning a rad or two from the cooling loop to the waterfall loop.

If your waterfall rez is one Of Warren's he can tell you how much flow you need for the waterfall to look good.

Yeah I have the big 5 bay one, and I am doing exactly that. The main loop is res to feser 360 to HK, NB, VID back to res.
pic

Even at speed 5 it wasnt giving me enough flow to make the fall shine, so luckly I had the 2nd outlet to use. So its just a 2nd loop with a worm clamp to open and constrict flow as I test. I just had no way to telling how much flow is now going to the primary loop. So thought to ask what others have done in uneven restriction loops.

thx boxgods.

[damunk]

Great, 3,5M screws are nowhere to be found in shops around here... Why not use standard M3 or M4 screws, now I can put my build on hold to find these mysterious M3,5 screws. And my T3 had already been collecting dust because the PCICE fluid was messed up. I really dont get this.

[DarthBeavis]

Great, 3,5M screws are nowhere to be found in shops around here... Why not use standard M3 or M4 screws, now I can put my build on hold to find these mysterious M3,5 screws. And my T3 had already been collecting dust because the PCICE fluid was messed up. I really dont get this.

I have a bunch of 3.5mm x 12 mm and 3.5 mm x 16 mm. How many and what size do you need?

[damunk]

The standard screws are just a few mm too short because my case uses this horrible mounting system. But since I live in the NL it would take forever to ship anyhow for just a few screws, I appreciate the gesture tho.

Lookin for a iron shop but seems its going to be quite the drive for those 4 damn screws :/

[DarthBeavis]

The standard screws are just a few mm too short because my case uses this horrible mounting system. But since I live in the NL it would take forever to ship anyhow for just a few screws, I appreciate the gesture tho.

Lookin for a iron shop but seems its going to be quite the drive for those 4 damn screws :/

I can email the screws.

[damunk]

I can email the screws.

If you can then I would also like to know what ISP ur using

[karbonkid]

I can email the screws.

classic

[DarthBeavis]

www.hexscrews.com
Item# 5SC3.5x12
Item# 5SC3.5x16

Nevermind the emailing. Comcast has a cap on usage.

[millertime359]

I can email the screws.

Dude, that is awesome, hook me up with what your using.

[tomslick.ca]

Great, 3,5M screws are nowhere to be found in shops around here... Why not use standard M3 or M4 screws, now I can put my build on hold to find these mysterious M3,5 screws. And my T3 had already been collecting dust because the PCICE fluid was messed up. I really dont get this.

6-32 should work

[BoxGods]

Yeah, the M3.5 drives me nuts too. When I specified the screws there was a sort of mix up. They used M3 inserts and I thought those were too small so I said please go up one size thinking M4 (I did not even know there was an M3.5) and they went up to M3.5.

I have them looking for an M4 insert that has the same OD as the M3.5 they are using so that future batches can have M4 ...you know cause life is not confusing enough now

[damunk]

I will probably just try and secure it with the M3 screws.. They seem to have some grip...

Running the res/pump on its own loop now to check if my fitting leak with the bigger orings I got, so far so good. Just one more question before I put it in my build, what to do with the washers supplied with the T3? The sticky ones are the ones im talking about.. Haven't used them but also not getting any leaks... yet

[BoxGods]

Just wanted to post here again with an update to my previous posts detailing my experiences. The air has pretty much worked its way out of my loop now but the PC Pure black coolant has separated and has now become crystal clear. That probably means I have a black sludge deposit in either my CPU cooler, radiators, or both. I get to tear open my week old loop and clean out the rads and blocks. I am not a happy camper.

Overall my experience with the res itself has been very positive though and I am very happy with it.

I mentioned your problem with a dye bomb to Brian at Primo Chill and he said "lemme guess, it was a black dye bomb". Apparently Black is very hard to do for a dye bomb because it requires so much dye or something. He said he would be happy to replace the black whith another color, or that if you needed black for your build to set you up with some Black PrimoFlex LRT. Just email him or better yet start a ticket and he would square you away.

[BoxGods]

I will probably just try and secure it with the M3 screws.. They seem to have some grip...

Running the res/pump on its own loop now to check if my fitting leak with the bigger orings I got, so far so good. Just one more question before I put it in my build, what to do with the washers supplied with the T3? The sticky ones are the ones im talking about.. Haven't used them but also not getting any leaks... yet

The little black ones are for mounting so isolate any vibration from your chassis. One on the T3 and one on the washer so the mounting cage is sandwhiched.

[century child]

Thanks for that! The coolant I was using was PC Pure. I originally ordered it intending to just use it clear without the dye bomb since the description said it would be delivered un-mixed but it actually arrived already mixed. I haven't been able to tear the loop apart yet to check for build-up but I can see staining through the top of my video card block (EK 295 single PCB block nickel with plexi top). No build up in there but the channels are nice and wide so I wouldn't expect any. My thinking though is that all the black dye would pretty much have to have accumulated somewhere, right? I mean it couldn't have just dissolved. I'll shoot him a mail but when he finds out I'm in Germany I doubt he'll be willing to ship tubing here due to the high cost of shipping.

[millertime359]

Thanks for that! The coolant I was using was PC Pure. I originally ordered it intending to just use it clear without the dye bomb since the description said it would be delivered un-mixed but it actually arrived already mixed. I haven't been able to tear the loop apart yet to check for build-up but I can see staining through the top of my video card block (EK 295 single PCB block nickel with plexi top). No build up in there but the channels are nice and wide so I wouldn't expect any. My thinking though is that all the black dye would pretty much have to have accumulated somewhere, right? I mean it couldn't have just dissolved. I'll shoot him a mail but when he finds out I'm in Germany I doubt he'll be willing to ship tubing here due to the high cost of shipping.

It's probably in your CPU block.

[BoxGods]

Thanks for that! The coolant I was using was PC Pure. I originally ordered it intending to just use it clear without the dye bomb since the description said it would be delivered un-mixed but it actually arrived already mixed. I haven't been able to tear the loop apart yet to check for build-up but I can see staining through the top of my video card block (EK 295 single PCB block nickel with plexi top). No build up in there but the channels are nice and wide so I wouldn't expect any. My thinking though is that all the black dye would pretty much have to have accumulated somewhere, right? I mean it couldn't have just dissolved. I'll shoot him a mail but when he finds out I'm in Germany I doubt he'll be willing to ship tubing here due to the high cost of shipping.

Well maybe he can get one of the German resellers to ship you out some. Where are you at in Germany? I lived in Augsburg for 6-7 years and in Munich for a year or so. been back a few times also.

[dingdong555]

BoxGods, I'm going to get a Typhoon III but I need to use a 90* barb on the outlet of the reservoir, so for that, I'll need a Bitspower 90* dual rotary barb, I've seen people having leaking issues so do you think it'll be ok?

[millertime359]

BoxGods, I'm going to get a Typhoon III but I need to use a 90* barb on the outlet of the reservoir, so for that, I'll need a Bitspower 90* dual rotary barb, I've seen people having leaking issues so do you think it'll be ok?

It sounds like bigger o-rings were solving those leaking issues. I thought a few people linked the exact sizes a few pages back. Geno might remember when he gets on.

[century child]

Well maybe he can get one of the German resellers to ship you out some. Where are you at in Germany? I lived in Augsburg for 6-7 years and in Munich for a year or so. been back a few times also.

I have been over here for 8 1/2 years now and live about 45 minutes south of Munich near a town called Bad Tölz. You may have heard of it while you were in Munich. It is a pretty popular weekend retreat for the city dwellers.

Unfortunately there are no German shops that have any kind of Primochill selection. No tubing or fittings. A couple have the TIII and PC Pure fluid and Dye Bombs but that's about it. It looks like you have to go to U.K. to find anything else.

[karbonkid]

Bleeding and leak-testing now... and wow the D4 is noisy, and it won't even spin up at 7V. I put it on my fan controller for a little while, which helped a bit, but then the controller let out some magic smoke and that was the end of that....