Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[century child]

Got another question. I'm using the European 16mm OD/ 10mm ID tubing (DD/Feser 3/8 in). When using the included 3/8 x 5/8in. fittings, I noticed that if I try, I can pull the tubing off the fitting even after screwing the compression all the way down. This is actually physically pulling on the tubing using medium force. Do you think I run the risk of the tubing popping off the fitting using these? I ask because this does not happen when using metal 16/10 fittings.

[BoxGods]

Got another question. I'm using the European 16mm OD/ 10mm ID tubing (DD/Feser 3/8 in). When using the included 3/8 x 5/8in. fittings, I noticed that if I try, I can pull the tubing off the fitting even after screwing the compression all the way down. This is actually physically pulling on the tubing using medium force. Do you think I run the risk of the tubing popping off the fitting using these? I ask because this does not happen when using metal 16/10 fittings.

There is so much of that question that is subjective that there is no way I could answer for sure. "Medium pressure" when pulled is especially vague lol. The PrimoFlex LRT conforms to what I guess is the standard on this side of the pond, 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD or 9.525 mm ID by 15.87 mm OD so unless you have small children who might be prone to reach in and yank on a tube when you were not looking...likely not an issue. That is assuming of course that you have looped it up and there were no leaks.

Said another way, if your asking if I think the T3 could generate enough pressure to pop one off...no of course not. Obviously you need to leak test (just like you would for any new installation) before you stuff all your valuable parts in the case.

[century child]

Thanks for your answer. The tubing just came off more easily than I'd like is all. I have no idea what the tolerances are for this tubing but when we are dealing with tenths of a milimeter I have to think it will be ok and won't pop off due to pressure in the loop. I have been leak testing/bleeding for about 24 hours and all is well so far. I am having some difficulty getting all the air out but I'm sure that with time it will all work its way out like it always does. Over all I am very happy with the res and I appreciate all the thought you put into the design. It's innovation like this that keeps this hobby interesting and my wallet empty

[millertime359]

Thanks for your answer. The tubing just came off more easily than I'd like is all. I have no idea what the tolerances are for this tubing but when we are dealing with tenths of a milimeter I have to think it will be ok and won't pop off due to pressure in the loop. I have been leak testing/bleeding for about 24 hours and all is well so far. I am having some difficulty getting all the air out but I'm sure that with time it will all work its way out like it always does. Over all I am very happy with the res and I appreciate all the thought you put into the design. It's innovation like this that keeps this hobby interesting and my wallet empty

I found that if you top the res almost completely off, it helps with bleeding. It seems that the res will pull air from just a small air pocket.

[century child]

My problem is that the air pocket seems to keep recycling, the pump seems to keep pulling the air bubbles in before they make their way to the top of the res. If I leave the case in one position, either sitting upright or on its back with the res at the top, and leave it running long enough, it calms down and the flow is very smooth but as soon as I tilt the case in the slightest the res fills with air bubbles again. I've tried cycling the pump in various positions while opening and closing the res and also varying pump speed but still experience foaming of the fluid even after just over 24 hours of constant running.

[millertime359]

I had the same problem, fill it up so that the air bubble is pretty much gone.

[century child]

Actually I have done that already but the problem persists in my case.

[genec57]

If you keep getting bubbles you still have air. Fill the res, tilt it, fill it, tilt it and eventually you will get all the air out. In a closed system it pretty much has to happen that way.

[BoxGods]

Your not running beer for fluid are you

[millertime359]

Actually I have done that already but the problem persists in my case.

must not be fully bleed

[century child]

I have tilted every which way, filled, tilted, filled ad nauseum but still have the same problem. I'm not new to water cooling and in my case at least, bleeding doesn't seem to be any easier with this res than with others I have used. I've still got plenty of trapped air in the loop I just can't seem to get rid of no matter what I do but I am sure it will eventually work its way out as it always does.

BoxGods, I'm not using beer in my loop but have consumed plenty of it while attempting to rid the loop of foam/air, the good German stuff too I am actually using PrimoChill PC Pure fluid to avoid problems with the adhesive used in the construction of the res.

[millertime359]

might be part of the problem. That PC Ice seems to foam up pretty bad no matter what. I had used some for a little bit and didn't like how it foamed so much.

Got any photos of your loop. Your rads might be mounted to where the inlet and outlet are at the bottom. That is suppose to be a pain to bleed that way too.

[century child]

Ok, that's good to know. I'm not going to change out fluid at this point though unless the problem persists and temps suffer.

I haven't bothered with photos because I don't have access to a decent camera and the pics always come out disappointing. I'm running two loops parallel in a TJ07, one loop = res > XSPC 480 > CPU block Watercool Heatkiller LT rev3 > EK fusion block mounted on R2E stock cooler > return to res and the second loop = res > XSPC 240 > EK GTX295 single PCB block with back block > return to res. I'll post sh*tty pics if you really want to see them but they won't do the thing justice. I'm using colored tubing for the CPU loop and red for the GPU so I can't tell how much air is in the lines but I can sure see it through the plexy top of the EK GPU block. The 295 single PCB block is really a work of art by the way and I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a block for this card. The back block is total overkill but it sure looks nice and adds stability overall (no warping whatsoever) and provides a bit better connectivity as the port on the back of the normal block is uncomfortably shallow. It looks almost like even a Bitspower fitting would bottom out on it.

*edit* just wanted to add that I put the inlets at the bottom of the rads and outlets at the top (they are on their sides as is typical at the bottom of a TJ07).

[skinnee]

*edit* just wanted to add that I put the inlets at the bottom of the res's and outlets at the top (they are on their sides as is typical at the bottom of a TJ07).

NO!

Outlets closest to the pump, inlets farthest from the pump!!!

[millertime359]

*edit* just wanted to add that I put the inlets at the bottom of the res's and outlets at the top (they are on their sides as is typical at the bottom of a TJ07).

+1 on Skinnee, that probably alot of your problem. I'm surprised your temps are ok.

[BoxGods]

I think he means he has the T3 tipped on its side...right? so the "top" inlets would then be the pair closest to the pump and become outlets and the "bottom" pair would be the pair farthest from the pump and would then become the inlets...of course if you DO have it set up the wrong way then there is why it's foaming...you have to remember the T3 moves a LOT of water...you are running it like a jacuzzi pump lol. Plain water would foam under those conditions.

[century child]

Sorry, it was about 3 a.m. my time when I posted that and I was a little foggy. Actually I was referring to the rads and I have corrected my post. I have the outlets and inlets from the res configured correctly as everyone described.

[millertime359]

Sorry, it was about 3 a.m. my time when I posted that and I was a little foggy. Actually I was referring to the rads and I have corrected my post. I have the outlets and inlets from the res configured correctly as everyone described.

Ok, that makes more sense

Are the rad ports toward the front of the case, or the back. That is one thing I noticed about the T3. If you mount the rad so the ports are toward the back of the case, they will rotate to be at the bottom of the rad. That is suppose to be more difficult to bleed than when the are at the top of the rad.

Mine are that way. I found that I had to cap the ports off and tilt the case forward to break the air bubble apart that was still in my rad. I could then lie it back and open the ports back up again.

[century child]

The ports are at the back end of the case. I have also tried tilting the case forward several times. I don't get the usual gurgle like you get from the radiators when air is in them, so I think they are air-free now. At least I hope so. I've given up trying to bleed it all out and will try using the system now and see if more air gets trapped in the res with time with it stationary.

[century child]

Well I've been using the system for several hours now and temps are not very good. I assume because of all the air in the loop because given my hardware, I should be getting much nicer temps. So I guess it's back to the bleed for me. I hope I make a breathrough soon because this gets really old after 3 days.

As an aside, I would like some clarification of what is meant by "harsh chemicals" regarding the use of coolant with this res. I would probably just go distilled with PT Nuke if I change coolant but reading through the description of the additive, it sounds like it's got some pretty nasty stuff in it too. I would like some clarification as to which of the commonly used chemicals in coolant are allowed from the manufacturer's perspective. Any input here BoxGods?

[HoosTrax]

I haven't had any issues running distilled with PT Nuke (the clear version, not the blue).

[millertime359]

I use iandh's silver killcoils in mine. You can't use anything that has ethylene glycol in it. PT Nuke doesn't have any, so you are fine. You may just want to drain it and go buy some distilled and a kill coil, or some PT Nuke and try that.

[BoxGods]

Yeah, as far as I know only the ethylene glycol and alcohol are the only no no's. Sorry for the slow answer but I am helping DB and Bod get rigs ready for PAX and working on two builds myself. Thanks to the guys in here helping out with answers. XS community FTW!

[millertime359]

Yeah, as far as I know only the ethylene glycol and alcohol are the only no no's. Sorry for the slow answer but I am helping DB and Bod get rigs ready for PAX and working on two builds myself. Thanks to the guys in here helping out with answers. XS community FTW!

Damn, wish i could go to PAX, be certain to post some photos Geno

[BoxGods]

Damn, wish i could go to PAX, be certain to post some photos Geno

You and me both man...I am not going either. I bet that is a fantastic event too. I know DB will load up on pictures though.