Tri-SLI + Physx Cooling Help

[///M3TZ]

Hey guys, it's time to put my 3 GTX285 FTW's on liquid. They can't be used to their potential without overheating... tried everything over the last couple months.

I will be running these on a separate loop from my CPU but need some help in picking my waterblocks/radiator.

First a pic of my current setup



I like the simplicity of the heatkiller blocks with the tri-SLI connector but feel like I should add a 9800 GT as a PHYSX card for batman and future games. The way the X58 Classified is configured it wouldn't be possible to run the heatkiller blocks. See image below



Basically I want to know what my options are for watercooling the 3 GTX285's with a PHYSX card (non watercooled but open to suggestions). I also considered cooling the mobo but think even with a 360mm radiator that would be too much for one loop to handle as I want these cards to be COOL. I have an extra Swiftech MCR 220mm rad I could loop the mobo on but don't know it would be worth it.

Trying to keep the loop under 600 dollars and these are the components I know that I want.

- Swiftech MCP655-B Pump
- Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Rev. 2 Reservoir
- 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing (most likely)
- Feser X-Changer 360mm Xtreme Performance Radiator - open to other suggestions
-Fans for radiator? Preferably quiet
- GPU waterblocks????????????????????

Thank you so much for reading this and I am open to all suggestions as long as these cards are COOL. One last thing is I believe my GTX285's are version 2 but not 100% positive. Will double check but for now just assume they are.

[millertime359]

I would honestly get a DDC with the XSPC restop instead. I think it would be a cleaner install than putting another D5 and MCRES-Micro in there.

The EK block should work. You could use the SLI bridge, or some D-plugs and just run them in parallel. Make certain to check reference design though before purchasing blocks. I don't think you need to water cool the 9800 GT, what temps does it reach?

You really don't need to put the board on water, but if you did, just loop it in with CPU and a 360 rad, and you should be fine. As loong as you have some airflow or a fan pointed at board, it should be fine.

[///M3TZ]

I would honestly get a DDC with the XSPC restop instead. I think it would be a cleaner install than putting another D5 and MCRES-Micro in there.

The EK block should work. You could use the SLI bridge, or some D-plugs and just run them in parallel. Make certain to check reference design though before purchasing blocks. I don't think you need to water cool the 9800 GT, what temps does it reach?

You really don't need to put the board on water, but if you did, just loop it in with CPU and a 360 rad, and you should be fine. As loong as you have some airflow or a fan pointed at board, it should be fine.

First, thanks for the quick response.

I'm pretty new to the whole watercooling so I chose the same pump/res for familiarity/consistency in the case but I will consider those options.

Haven't seen the EK block but it looks pretty nice... need to do some research on it.

I'm with you on not putting the board on water... the dominator GT fans provide decent airflow to it when positioned right. Not to mention I will eliminate A LOT of heat from my case with the cards on water.

I should point out I don't have the Physx card yet but think I should add it because if I watercool without it and want to add it later I'm screwed.

[millertime359]

I should point out I don't have the Physx card yet but think I should add it because if I watercool without it and want to add it later I'm screwed.

Not really. You you can always add it later. it would just require some reworking to do so. You might need to switch out so fittings is all.

There are other versions of that block. It's easy to grab links from sidewinders, you go to EK's site or PPC, you will find the others.

Actually, I would check out the Typhoon III. It looks like UTnorris has almost the same setup as you and he didn't see his temps drop from switching from a dual loop to the parallel loops of the T3. It would save you the cost of a second pump and res. It will also help to keep the case looking neat.

There are a couple of threads here on it. Here is one, the review thread, and the T3.

[Armitage]

I realize this isn't the section to bring it up. But from every thing I read, Physx cards are not worth it. Especially with that much GPU power already.

Back OT.

I agree with everything MT has said. I like the EK blocks also. Your rad choice is perfectly fine also.

[///M3TZ]

Not really. You you can always add it later. it would just require some reworking to do so. You might need to switch out so fittings is all.

There are other versions of that block. It's easy to grab links from sidewinders, you go to EK's site or PPC, you will find the others.

Actually, I would check out the Typhoon III. It looks like UTnorris has almost the same setup as you and he didn't see his temps drop from switching from a dual loop to the parallel loops of the T3. It would save you the cost of a second pump and res. It will also help to keep the case looking neat.

There are a couple of threads here on it. Here is one, the review thread, and the T3.

To be honest I am completely content with my CPU loop on it's own 360mm rad and do not plan on taking it apart until it needs some service. I am not sure if you are familiar with the evga GTX285 FTW's but let me tell you they have some heat issues and with 3 of them I know for sure that I want them on their own loop. I already have a few ideas to keep the case nice and clean and I would prefer to use the same res/pump. Mainly just need to know the best waterblock for this GPU. Should note I am partial to PPC

Thanks again though... you already have me making decisions

You seem to know these forums very well... I would be VERY interested in seeing any setups with tri SLI and a Physx card on watercooling with the X58 Classified.

I realize this isn't the section to bring it up. But from every thing I read, Physx cards are not worth it. Especially with that much GPU power already.

Back OT.

I agree with everything MT has said. I like the EK blocks also. Your rad choice is perfectly fine also.

No I really appreciate this... it's a lot easier to me if I skip the PHYSX card TBH. I just kind of feel like I need it but I have heard it's not worth it too.

[Utnorris]

First, the Physx card is not necessary with TRI-SLI, I have done it and yes it will help your Vantage score, but unless you are playing a lot of games that take advantage of it I would skip it.

Second, I do run TRI-SLI with 3 x GTX280's, EK full MB block and the Heatkiller block all off the T3 and no it did not hurt my temps. However, since you already have a loop setup and are happy with it, price for a MCP355 and XSPC res top would be around the same, so I would go with what you are comfortable with. I use a triple Thermochill PA120.3 rad x 2 in my setup. I would suggest a triple rad or at least a dual Feser or dual XSPC RX series rad for your GPU's, skip Physx and go with the Heatkiller blocks with the TRI-SLI connector placing your cards in the first three x16 slots. It will also allow you access to the reset, power buttons, USB connections, etc. all the stuff on the side of the board. It looks like you have room in the bottom of the case for a dual rad, not sure where else you can do it without going external.

Make sure you have at least a 1k PSU, mine have hit as high as 910 watts under load, probably a little higher, but that's what I was able to catch.

Here is a PIC of my current setup:

[///M3TZ]

First, the Physx card is not necessary with TRI-SLI, I have done it and yes it will help your Vantage score, but unless you are playing a lot of games that take advantage of it I would skip it.

Second, I do run TRI-SLI with 3 x GTX280's, EK full MB block and the Heatkiller block all off the T3 and no it did not hurt my temps. However, since you already have a loop setup and are happy with it, price for a MCP355 and XSPC res top would be around the same, so I would go with what you are comfortable with. I use a triple Thermochill PA120.3 rad x 2 in my setup. I would suggest a triple rad or at least a dual Feser or dual XSPC RX series rad for your GPU's, skip Physx and go with the Heatkiller blocks with the TRI-SLI connector placing your cards in the first three x16 slots. It will also allow you access to the reset, power buttons, USB connections, etc. all the stuff on the side of the board. It looks like you have room in the bottom of the case for a dual rad, not sure where else you can do it without going external.

Make sure you have at least a 1k PSU, mine have hit as high as 910 watts under load, probably a little higher, but that's what I was able to catch.

Here is a PIC of my current setup:

Great info and points! Thanks. The heatkiller does seem like the way to go! I do have a PC Power and Cooling 1200 watt turbo cool so no problem there (which is wish i could watercool as it sounds like a blow dryer). I Never even thought about putting the rad in the bottom but you are right... there is room! this is how the front rad is mounted just FYI

[Utnorris]

Where were you thinking you would put it? The bottom is the only place I could see it going. After seeing the front of your case, maybe a single loop with this rad might be a better idea:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25382

or

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25385

With the Feser you would probably need to do a slim DVD drive, but I think either would be enough and save on space. You could also move the Hard Drives back and do a push pull configuration or fan/shroud combo. Basically you would just be adding the GTX285's to your current loop, so no need for additional pump and res for a second loop.

Just a few thoughts.

[Utnorris]

By the way, mine are not Heatkiller GPU blocks.

[maxxx]

@///M3TZ: If your gonna use HeatKiller blocks and use the backplate of your video cards, you may need to make 4 of the holes on the backplate a little bigger. The HK blocks come with 2 sets of screws. The fat screws won't fit in the holes of the backplate. I am also in the process of installing water blocks in 2 FTW's and 1 vanilla and hit that minor snag. I guess you'd bork the warranty of the video card if you do that, I just did. Also, don't over tighten the screws for the gpu near bottom of the card.

@UTnorris: is there any difference if the inlet is in the right side and outlet on the left side? Temperature wise? Like the thread starter, I am very new to water cooling. I've got a dedicated loop for the gpu's. Rad is a Feser 360 with 355 pump/XSPC top. TIA....

[Utnorris]

It shouldn't make a difference on the HeatKiller blocks which side is in or out. There is some debate as to whether to go serial or parallel on the blocks. I like the looks of parallel, but serial may give you better flow across all three blocks which in turn may give you a few degrees better temps. Not that a few degrees would matter on the GPU's since water cooling them usually drops the temps by a huge margin compared to the stock coolers.

[Hondacity]

you can't do serial with 3 heatkiller 285 blocks...

also the inlet outlet...of the block matters..just like the cpu water block...i can't remember which is inlet..

[maxxx]

It shouldn't make a difference on the HeatKiller blocks which side is in or out. There is some debate as to whether to go serial or parallel on the blocks. I like the looks of parallel, but serial may give you better flow across all three blocks which in turn may give you a few degrees better temps. Not that a few degrees would matter on the GPU's since water cooling them usually drops the temps by a huge margin compared to the stock coolers.

@UT: thanks.... gonna try and see the results.

you can't do serial with 3 heatkiller 285 blocks...

also the inlet outlet...of the block matters..just like the cpu water block...i can't remember which is inlet..

Hey HondaCity, thanks for the input. I did use your guide to start up this project. I just hit a small snag with the backplate and when I over tighten the screws for the gpu near the bottom of the card.

[///M3TZ]

Where were you thinking you would put it? The bottom is the only place I could see it going. After seeing the front of your case, maybe a single loop with this rad might be a better idea:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25382

or

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25385

With the Feser you would probably need to do a slim DVD drive, but I think either would be enough and save on space. You could also move the Hard Drives back and do a push pull configuration or fan/shroud combo. Basically you would just be adding the GTX285's to your current loop, so no need for additional pump and res for a second loop.

Just a few thoughts.

Thanks, but I still would like to keep my original loop intact and run the GPU's on a separate one. I didn't think the bottom of the case because I always imagined it would be on the back of the case. I did some measuring for the feser 360mm I originally posted and the length is 16.2 inches... I only have 15 inches available on the bottom unless I find another way to mount my HDD's. It would be nice to go on the bottom but I worked pretty hard reverse mounting my HDD so no wires were showing and the back of the case idea doesn't bother me that bad.

I like the ideas you are throwing but even if i got the monsta and the 3 waterblocks it would be wayyy more expensive than just getting another pump/res/and the 360mm Feser which I am sure is quite efficient.

By the way, mine are not Heatkiller GPU blocks.

I know

@///M3TZ: If your gonna use HeatKiller blocks and use the backplate of your video cards, you may need to make 4 of the holes on the backplate a little bigger. The HK blocks come with 2 sets of screws. The fat screws won't fit in the holes of the backplate. I am also in the process of installing water blocks in 2 FTW's and 1 vanilla and hit that minor snag. I guess you'd bork the warranty of the video card if you do that, I just did. Also, don't over tighten the screws for the gpu near bottom of the card.

Thanks for the info... from the sounds of it I would just avoid using the backplates then

PLEASE let me know what temps you are getting! This has to be worth the 700 bucks it's going to cost

[0xdeadbeef]

///M3TZ, here's a picture of my system with 3-way GTX280 and 9800 GT (Green Edition, doesn't require 6-pin aux power) for PhysX.

I used these fittings from Bitspower to connect everything together:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24770
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24678
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22623



I cool my GPU/chipset loop with a HW Labs GTX480 and San Aces. My SLI temps are around 40-42C during heavy gaming.

You can't use any backplate on your third SLI card if you're going PhysX. As you can see I had to remove it. It doesn't matter for the RAM temps though, they are identical with or without the backplate.

Go to EVGA's forum for good PhysX information and comparison. Here's a good start for you:

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=...1&key=�

Good luck!

[millertime359]

Thanks again though... you already have me making decisions

You seem to know these forums very well... I would be VERY interested in seeing any setups with tri SLI and a Physx card on watercooling with the X58 Classified.

I was following the T3 threads very closly as I have one. I remembered Norris posting the info on his loop and went back to check his sig.

It is a nice product, but I can understand not wanting to mess with your CPU loop as you are comfrotable with it.

I haven't seen a ton of tri-sli rigs in here, come to think of it.

You probably could do some modding and move that HD rack up to allow for the rad to mount on the bottom. It might take some work though.

[Utnorris]

Oxdeadbeef, quit copying me! JK!

But seriously, I think the Heatkillers would be nice, but after reading what Honda stated, I would look at the EK or Koolance blocks and do what either I did or Oxdeadbeef did to connect them. The BP mini-D plugs or regular D plugs are easy to use and great. The other connectors you could use would be like these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25783

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25782

You can also put the second rad off the back of the case using this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25631

or this:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=1956

And then bring the tubes through the bottom right under the last PCI slot.

[maxxx]

PLEASE let me know what temps you are getting! This has to be worth the 700 bucks it's going to cost

Well, I manage to install all 3 blocks, do leak test and all... but... the 3rd card is being detected as a 295. I guess its damaged or something when I was installing the water block.
When ever I install the driver, it BSOD....