ASUS RAMPAGE II GENE (Retail) : ROG. X58 m-ATX preview

[aln688]

Yeah. Anything short of acetone really does nothing to that Asus gunk. I spent more than 15 mins before I busted out the heavy cleaner.

For what reason? To simply replace the yellow thermal "glue" with something else?

[Jayrock]

For what reason? To simply replace the yellow thermal "glue" with something else?

I actually had a slight curve to my pcb and what looked like "cracks" in that super glue they call thermal compound because of it. My NB temps were out of control. Now they are fine.

[Nanometer]

For what reason? To simply replace the yellow thermal "glue" with something else?

that's the idea, most stock thermal compounds work, but they are far from the best stuff. They are usually piled on too thick and prvent the system from giving good heat transfer. On XS the majority of us replace the compounds with something of our choice.

[aln688]

I actually had a slight curve to my pcb and what looked like "cracks" in that super glue they call thermal compound because of it. My NB temps were out of control. Now they are fine.

that's the idea, most stock thermal compounds work, but they are far from the best stuff. They are usually piled on too thick and prvent the system from giving good heat transfer. On XS the majority of us replace the compounds with something of our choice.

Hmm. So once you replaced the thermal compound, you definitely saw a reduction in temperature, using Arctic Silver 5? In general going through the effort of doing this was worth it? Also, what method did you apply the Arctic Silver 5 to the NB? I ask because I was looking at this article:

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...review-14.html

...and they seem to think with a fan blowing over the area that replacing the yellow thermal glue isn't needed. For me I'll be bolting a U6 + fan to the stock cooling, if it doesn't reduce the load temperature below 65 then I'll remove the entire heatsink and replace the yellow compound.

[aln688]

What you do mean Achievement? I bolted a U6 to the NB assembly 3 months ago with those temps and have been using it ever since lol
You should get the same.

Nanometer got a picture of your NB cooling solution? Preferably some close up shots of how you bolted it on.

ReignsOfPower, did you replace the yellow thermal glue on your NB, by removing the entire heatsink assembly? I ask as I know you've got excellent temperatures on your NB using the U6 and fan. Thanks.

[Jayrock]

Hmm. So once you replaced the thermal compound, you definitely saw a reduction in temperature, using Arctic Silver 5? In general going through the effort of doing this was worth it? Also, what method did you apply the Arctic Silver 5 to the NB? Thanks.

I use MX-2 or OCZ Freeze. As for application method, I just put a dab on the center and spread it out with the closest handy plastic card (credit, store club, etc).

I don't like the idea of any TIM that cures like Asus's stock stuff or even AS5. I've seen people actually tear off their NB trying to redo the TIM on their "enthusiast" boards.

[aln688]

I use MX-2 or OCZ Freeze. As for application method, I just put a dab on the center and spread it out with the closest handy plastic card (credit, store club, etc).

I don't like the idea of any TIM that cures like Asus's stock stuff or even AS5. I've seen people actually tear off their NB trying to redo the TIM on their "enthusiast" boards.

Tear off the NB?! If I determine I have to remove the stock heatsink to replace the yellow compound to try and reduce temperatures over my U6 + fan, I'll likely use the Noctua NT-H1 compound that came in my U12P heatsink kit box - there's no curing with that compound.

[ReignsOfPower]

ReignsOfPower, did you replace the yellow thermal glue on your NB, by removing the entire heatsink assembly? I ask as I know you've got excellent temperatures on your NB using the U6 and fan. Thanks.

Affirmative. Took off all the heatsinks and cleaned them all. All my TIM is Arctic Cooling MX-2. I think MX-3 is coming out soon, but I wont bother reapplying all my TIM unless I change CPU heatsink. I didn't change the MOSFET thermal pad as it came off clean.

[aln688]

Affirmative. Took off all the heatsinks and cleaned them all. All my TIM is Arctic Cooling MX-2. I think MX-3 is coming out soon, but I wont bother reapplying all my TIM unless I change CPU heatsink. I didn't change the MOSFET thermal pad as it came off clean.

ReignsOfPower,

Did you measure temperatures before removing the yellow glue, and after applying the MX-2? I want to know if it's necessary or not, considering I read that Hardware Canucks article stating that replacing the stock yellow glue is not necessary - in their opinion of course.

Your system looks great, I saw the picture with the blue haze of the Antec Spot Cool and your LCD poster positioned neatly in the far right corner, almost a work of art actually. I would go so far as to say your build is a model system. My system will be very similar to yours when complete.

Different question, what sound card did you use? I wanted the XtremeMusic but it didn't have 2 x 5 Intel HD Audio connector for the front panel of my Antec Mini P180, so I opted for the XtremeGamer PCI card instead.

[Nanometer]

Changing the thermal paste is not necessary, but it's almost routine for many of us on here. If you have average ventilation you should be fine assuming you will be overclocking 190+bclock

[aln688]

Changing the thermal paste is not necessary, but it's almost routine for many of us on here. If you have average ventilation you should be fine assuming you will be overclocking 190+bclock

Oh I know it's routine, but if going through that effort only results in 1 or 2 C drop, I wouldn't do it. I'm aiming for 4.0 GHz, 20 x 200, or 19 x 211. That's the goal. I managed those figures easily on an Asus P6T Deluxe V2, with this board I'm sure it's possible as well.

I like ReignsOfPower's setup, the TRUE with Noctua U6 bolted on top of the stock cooling. From all the posts and Internet articles I've read, more airflow will result in lower temperatures than changing the stock Asus compound, that's speculation of course.

[Jayrock]

If you aren't having problems, then don't change it. If you continually have problems even after putting the Noctua on top, then change it.

[aln688]

If you aren't having problems, then don't change it. If you continually have problems even after putting the Noctua on top, then change it.

Advice like that is hard to fault! For convenience I'm going to try more airflow over the top first, then add a Noctua U6, then finally if I find I need it, change the yellow thermal glue for something else. Thanks.

[Lu(ky]

Can someone verify if this Kingston HyperX DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) will work on this board? I thought I read somewhere saying it will not?

[Lu(ky]

FYI if you guys want some MIPS block for this board it can be found -----> H E R E

[aln688]

Can someone verify if this Kingston HyperX DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) will work on this board? I thought I read somewhere saying it will not?

I haven't saw a Rampage II Gene user use these RAM modules. I personally use Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600 MHz RAM modules, the performance difference is negligible and being low-profile you can fit large CPU heatsinks over them.

[ReignsOfPower]

ReignsOfPower,

Did you measure temperatures before removing the yellow glue, and after applying the MX-2? I want to know if it's necessary or not, considering I read that Hardware Canucks article stating that replacing the stock yellow glue is not necessary - in their opinion of course.

Your system looks great, I saw the picture with the blue haze of the Antec Spot Cool and your LCD poster positioned neatly in the far right corner, almost a work of art actually. I would go so far as to say your build is a model system. My system will be very similar to yours when complete.

Different question, what sound card did you use? I wanted the XtremeMusic but it didn't have 2 x 5 Intel HD Audio connector for the front panel of my Antec Mini P180, so I opted for the XtremeGamer PCI card instead.

I measured ran the system on a testbench with stock NB cooling before I swapped the TIM and the NB cooler both at once. So it's inconclusive in terms of results. I know once changing both I dropped from 75 to 54 idle. I doubt it's necessary to change the TIM, but I did so anyway.

Thanks for the compliments, but its really not that hard to build the way I have. The parts work well with each other though. I got rid of the Spotcool fan for the moment.

I am using an Auzentech Prelude 7.1 Sound card.

A.T.M. I'm trying to decide which SSD I want to buy, or, if I want to wait. I'm looking at either a G.Skill Falcon or X-25M G2 (because they're cheaper).
I'd like to move my top HDD to the bottom near the PSU (3.5") and have the SSD somewhere up the top where it's less cluttered around the RAM area. Perhaps even thinking of removing the top HDD cage and mounting the SSD flat there along with another intake 120mm fan.

These look really cool, but I'd like to see a MOSFET/NB/SB 3-in-1 solution like there are for the Classified. That way you only need one loop to the CPU then one to that multi-cooling block and thats it. Nice and neat.

[aln688]

I measured ran the system on a testbench with stock NB cooling before I swapped the TIM and the NB cooler both at once. So it's inconclusive in terms of results. I know once changing both I dropped from 75 to 54 idle. I doubt it's necessary to change the TIM, but I did so anyway.

I think you're right, the U6 has more to do with your low temperatures than replacing the stock TIM. I'm going to use the stock TIM, install a U6 on there with NT-H1 compound under it. In fact while I'm there, I'm going to replace the TIM on the SB as well, it has this white, oily, Silmore rubbish on it. So replacing the SB TIM and NB stock heatsink modular block TIM is as far as I'll go for now.

Thanks for the compliments, but its really not that hard to build the way I have. The parts work well with each other though. I got rid of the Spotcool fan for the moment.

I've looked on the Internet for build ideas, and the reason I did that is this is my first MicroATX system, so clearances is something I need to check on, so I look for example builds. The parts do seem to work well, Antec Mini P180, Rampage II Gene, TRUE, ATI 4870 X2 & sound card. Did you lap your TRUE? I'm going to use a TRUE Black on my board, with high static pressure Sanyo Denki fan.

A.T.M. I'm trying to decide which SSD I want to buy, or, if I want to wait. I'm looking at either a G.Skill Falcon or X-25M G2 (because they're cheaper).
I'd like to move my top HDD to the bottom near the PSU (3.5") and have the SSD somewhere up the top where it's less cluttered around the RAM area. Perhaps even thinking of removing the top HDD cage and mounting the SSD flat there along with another intake 120mm fan.

The Falcon SSD drives are supposed to be good value. I'm glad I use low-profile RAM, it gives me more room around the back of the HDDs for cables. My Pioneer DVD drive has to be thrown out the window, it won't fit on the top as it hits the 200mm fan. I'm going to get a Plextor PX-850SA instead. You could also fit a drive bay in the bottom for the hard-drives, I've saw this device used in the Mini P180:



It's called a Heat Terminator, with a 80mm fan on the front. If this is installed on the two bottom 5.25" bays, the top driver cage can be removed completely and an extra fan installed, I'm considering this myself.

[canislupy]

Spotcool on low fan speed dropped me from 80C to 78C while running games... I think its time to replace the stock TIM.

[ChinStrap]

Oh I know it's routine, but if going through that effort only results in 1 or 2 C drop, I wouldn't do it. I'm aiming for 4.0 GHz, 20 x 200, or 19 x 211. That's the goal. I managed those figures easily on an Asus P6T Deluxe V2, with this board I'm sure it's possible as well.

I like ReignsOfPower's setup, the TRUE with Noctua U6 bolted on top of the stock cooling. From all the posts and Internet articles I've read, more airflow will result in lower temperatures than changing the stock Asus compound, that's speculation of course.

4GHz is my 24/7 on my rig.

I have a D0, all i changed for 4 GHz,

vcore 1.3
qpi 1.35
vdimm 1.65

LLC enabled.

thats about it. runs prime error free for 4 hours (longest i have tested) w/ load temps in the 60's. i did add a small fan to the stock NB (helped ALOT)

[aln688]

Spotcool on low fan speed dropped me from 80C to 78C while running games... I think its time to replace the stock TIM.

Is that all, 2 degrees C?! How about the fan on high? To hazard a guess, I don't think replacing the stock TIM would make that much of a difference. However, if you do try I'd appreciate knowing what difference it does make. When I get the remaining parts for my build I'll be trying out a few options myself.

[aln688]

4GHz is my 24/7 on my rig.

I have a D0, all i changed for 4 GHz,

vcore 1.3
qpi 1.35
vdimm 1.65

LLC enabled.

thats about it. runs prime error free for 4 hours (longest i have tested) w/ load temps in the 60's. i did add a small fan to the stock NB (helped ALOT)

Details man, details! What CPU heatsink do you use? What temperatures were your NB before you added the fan, and how far did the temperatures drop after the fan? Plus, what make and model of fan? Thanks!

[Leeghoofd]

Can someone verify if this Kingston HyperX DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) will work on this board? I thought I read somewhere saying it will not?

They work on the Gene II, very tall heatspreader though, if you want 12Gb, it will not work with a big cooler like a TRUE, unless you are watercooling or using a very small cooler.
Secondly I don't know if it's advisable to buy Hyper based rams at the moment. Our review kit worked for a day and half, till one stick dropped out. We didn't even reach 2000Mhz and weren't even over 1.63Vdimm.

Looking at ya current rams they are more than fine for daily usage... there's really not much difference between your and them Kingstons. Look in the Gene II rview (see my sig) in the tips and tricks section. Tweak the B2B setting, far better then to invest in new rams...

[aln688]

Can someone verify if this Kingston HyperX DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) will work on this board? I thought I read somewhere saying it will not?

Lu(ky, look at this, it may help you decide if to buy Kingston HyperX DDR3 2000 CL8 modules or not:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820104084

Judging from the failure rate, it looks like a good idea to stay away from them for the time being.

[canislupy]

Is that all, 2 degrees C?! How about the fan on high? To hazard a guess, I don't think replacing the stock TIM would make that much of a difference. However, if you do try I'd appreciate knowing what difference it does make. When I get the remaining parts for my build I'll be trying out a few options myself.

Well, that's the rub eh? I have been trying to keep from putting any fan above low speed, in order to get a quiet PC (220mm is on medium, and still quite quiet however). I just came from running a Shuttle, and the thing was a wind tunnel while running games because I had to max all fans to keep the temps low enough to not shutdown on me.

I may not get to pulling the board out this weekend to replace the TIM, maybe the following.