Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[BoxGods]

OK. I just got off the phone with Brian from PrimoChill and here is what he said.

For Bei Fei. In looking at the picture you posted it looks as if your T3 was run through bonding 2 or 3 times which made the glue much thicker/wider which makes it darker. (guy at the machine probably fell asleep or went for a smoke ) Obviously they will be happy to replace your T3 and for you to open a ticket at PrimoChill. He has already called and added multiple pass bonding to the inspection list in case it happens again. The bonding is done in batches so a few others may have those double bonded parts as well. The upside is your T3 is uber bonded, but if the aesthetics of the darker band are an issue for your build, they will be replaced. No questions asked.

The reason they switched form the clear material to the amber material is because they (PrimoChill) can not be 100% sure how well the clear glue will hold up to the Fesser One type fluids with ethylene glycol over time as it is a brand new product on the market. Even though they clearly state that the warranty does NOT cover the use of those fluids imagine a year down the road if there WAS an issue and hundreds and hundreds of users who had opted to use it. There would be hundreds of people in forums just like this one cursing T3 and PrimoChill. How many would admit they had used a fluid not covered by the warranty?

The amber/straw colored glue is MUCH tougher with extensive usage and industry testing behind it. The normal part with a single bonding pass is NOT clear but it is not nearly as thick/wide as the one you got so not nearly as dark. Brian opted to go with the slightly less attractive but proven adhesive. The pictures at PrimoChill, ModdersMart etc will be updated as soon as he has them.

His official position is that there is no reason anyone should be risking the use of a toxic fluid and PrimoChill will never officially cover it's use under warranty on principle. That said in the real world there ARE people who will use it anyway and he just can't risk an untested adhesive and the blow back if there were failures from using ethylene glycol.

-----------------------------------

[BoxGods]

Bei Fei I understand and agree they are not the same . . .just giving you carp somebody has to. If it makes you feel better, I do not wear tightie whities for phear of racing stripes.

The ones DB has were the clear band ones that eliminated the bubbles that show in the face. They have the glue that is untested DB so NO Ethelyn glycol Dude

[wondergod]

any possibility of getting a clear untested one still? I only use distilled water+silver.

[Utnorris]

For those that have the T3 already, does anyone have a suggestion for the BP compression fittings not sealing well? Am I right in that a larger o-ring will fix it or should I just use regular barbs there?
Thanks

[BoxGods]

any possibility of getting a clear untested one still? I only use distilled water+silver.

I sort of suggested having two SKU's to Brian--one for the clear and one for the amber but he said that it works out being like 20 SKU's when you factor in fitting colors, mounting bracket colors etc and most resellers would balk at that. I also suggested like a white or black plastic shrink sleeve that comes on clear fans. About 1 inch or 1.5" wide. The thing is the amber (the correct one) really is not a big deal. Maybe wait till you see some pics of a correct one to decide.

For those that have the T3 already, does anyone have a suggestion for the BP compression fittings not sealing well? Am I right in that a larger o-ring will fix it or should I just use regular barbs there?
Thanks

Could just use the ones that come with it

Got a pic of the specific fitting your wanting to use that shows the bottom in detail? Maybe I can think of something.

[bluehaze]

For Bei Fei. In looking at the picture you posted it looks as if your T3 was run through bonding 2 or 3 times which made the glue much thicker/wider which makes it darker. (guy at the machine probably fell asleep or went for a smoke ) Obviously they will be happy to replace your T3 and for you to open a ticket at PrimoChill. He has already called and added multiple pass bonding to the inspection list in case it happens again. The bonding is done in batches so a few others may have those double bonded parts as well. The upside is your T3 is uber bonded, but if the aesthetics of the darker band are an issue for your build, they will be replaced. No questions asked.

Any pics of what a proper one looks like? Sounds like your hands are tied by the Brian guy which kinda sucks...was looking forward to purchasing one of these but probably going to pass now. If this was poured acrylic with a removable face smiliar to the ek dual bay res it would look awesome and no need to glue 2 halves togethor!

[BoxGods]

Any pics of what a proper one looks like? Sounds like your hands are tied by the Brian guy which kinda sucks...was looking forward to purchasing one of these but probably going to pass now. If this was poured acrylic with a removable face smiliar to the ek dual bay res it would look awesome and no need to glue 2 halves togethor!

I am expecting some in the mail today. Will get some actual video rather then pictures so people can see them as is.

[Utnorris]

Oh I would love to use the fittings I had come with mine, unfortunetely I would then have to swap out all my QD's and tubing and I won't be able to do that till I check my lottery tickets tonight.

But seriously, I will take a pic later tonight after work, but the issue is the fitting's base doesn't fit inside the dip around the tap, that's why I think a thicker o-ring is all I need, but we will see, I might just do some 1/2" barbs without clamps since I am using 3/8" tubing.

[troelsm]

@BoxGods:

One thing I'm still not sure about.

If I were to run two loops with one pump from the T3 and used one loop as radiator-only, how close would the two loops have to be in restriction for it to work? I'm thinking for example running one loop with just a swiftech MCR320, and the other loop with a MCW60 and HK 3.0 LC. Can you say anything about if this would work or do i have to wait for some test for that kind of stuff?

[Utnorris]

I think it will work fine as the water seems to mix well when it comes back into the res. Just my opinion.

[Manicdan]

@BoxGods:

One thing I'm still not sure about.

If I were to run two loops with one pump from the T3 and used one loop as radiator-only, how close would the two loops have to be in restriction for it to work? I'm thinking for example running one loop with just a swiftech MCR320, and the other loop with a MCW60 and HK 3.0 LC. Can you say anything about if this would work or do i have to wait for some test for that kind of stuff?

what would be in the other loop? just a cpu block?

EDIT:nm i see the MCW60 and HK 3.0. too bad i cant remember what those are abbreviations for.

[Vapor]

@BoxGods:

One thing I'm still not sure about.

If I were to run two loops with one pump from the T3 and used one loop as radiator-only, how close would the two loops have to be in restriction for it to work? I'm thinking for example running one loop with just a swiftech MCR320, and the other loop with a MCW60 and HK 3.0 LC. Can you say anything about if this would work or do i have to wait for some test for that kind of stuff?

With those components, just go single loop in serial...you'll still get good flowrates (over 1.5GPM) and there's really no way to break up those 3 components into 2 loops that gives more flow to the CPU block.

[Barso]

I have accidently connected the reservoir to pump the water through my RAD and then through the outlet and then the inlet of my Swiftech GTZ and then back into the reservoir.
Do I really need to swap the tubes around or will I see no difference?
Thanks and loving the typhoon III

[troelsm]

With those components, just go single loop in serial...you'll still get good flowrates (over 1.5GPM) and there's really no way to break up those 3 components into 2 loops that gives more flow to the CPU block.

I'm looking for more flow through the radiator. As you say yourself flowrate through those blocks doesn't matter much as long as it's > 1.5GPM. If i could raise the flowrate in the radiator this way from say 1.5GPM (seriel) to 2.0GPM (Radiator only loop) that would make a difference in cooling though.

[Utnorris]

Try it and see if the results are better. You won't know for sure till you try it.

[BoxGods]

With those components, just go single loop in serial...you'll still get good flowrates (over 1.5GPM) and there's really no way to break up those 3 components into 2 loops that gives more flow to the CPU block.

Agreed. For the most part to run two loops with the radiator on one loop you want it to either be a pretty restrictive dual 120 (think the old school models or a monster type) or a triple or quad 120 model of the newer models.

That is not to say that if aesthetics with 2 loops works better for your build you can't run two with acceptable performance.

I have also seen good results in my unofficial testing using multiple radiators in different combination.

Utnorris is correct in mentioning that a key thing to remember is that at nearly 16 exchanges a minute with all the turbulence you get from the twin inlets into the reservoir the T3 would make a Cuisinart jealous lol. I tried to make a video with a dye injection into the main reservoir that would illustrate just how fast a water exchange happens, but with a tad less then 4 seconds to get enough dye in to see the change before its gone...can't see much on the video....sorta like this guy

[Utnorris]

Boxgods, did you get the samples in? If so, can you post pics please.

[BoxGods]

Boxgods, did you get the samples in? If so, can you post pics please.

There was a box there that probably them, but I didn't get out of the shop till 10 PM and it was already dark, sorry. Will get some video tomorrow afternoon.

[shadow664]

hey, would anyone be able to tell me if i would gain anything from running this with my build?

evga classified x58 760
i7 920(d0)
12gb ram
evga 285 gtx 2gb

my wc components so far are

Cpu - heatkiller rev 3 lg 1366
nb/sb mosfet - ek-fb classified acetal - nickel
gpu - EK-FC285 GTX PCB Rev.2 SLI - Acetal+Nickel gonna have 2 in sli later on

Rad's - feser 360 (and a feser 240 if need be)

so do you guys think i would benefit from this res+pump in theory i would think my sub loops would go like this

sub loop 1
res<rad(360)<(nb cooler?),Cpu<res

sub loop 2
res<(if i need a 2nd rad 240)(nb cooler?)<gpu<(eventually gpu#2)<res

as you can see im not sure where to put the nb chipset cooler in sub 1 or 2

or would i be better off with 2 seperate loops?

thank you for the help

[Oupavoc]

I'm really liking this res/pump top combo. But will it be better then my current setup using a detroit top along side a 5.24" bay drive res?

[Vapor]

hey, would anyone be able to tell me if i would gain anything from running this with my build?

evga classified x58 760
i7 920(d0)
12gb ram
evga 285 gtx 2gb

my wc components so far are

Cpu - heatkiller rev 3 lg 1366
nb/sb mosfet - ek-fb classified acetal - nickel
gpu - EK-FC285 GTX PCB Rev.2 SLI - Acetal+Nickel gonna have 2 in sli later on

Rad's - feser 360 (and a feser 240 if need be)

so do you guys think i would benefit from this res+pump in theory i would think my sub loops would go like this

sub loop 1
res<rad(360)<(nb cooler?),Cpu<res

sub loop 2
res<(if i need a 2nd rad 240)(nb cooler?)<gpu<(eventually gpu#2)<res

as you can see im not sure where to put the nb chipset cooler in sub 1 or 2

or would i be better off with 2 seperate loops?

thank you for the help

Would you be better off with 2 separate loops (in terms of flowrate)? yes. Would using the Typhoon III improve your flowrates noticeably compared to a serial config? Yes.

Depending on how restrictive that board block is (I have a rough idea, but nothing concrete to work with), your flowrates would go from ~1.25GPM in a serial config to mid-1.6s on the CPU+rad subloop and mid-1.4s on the GPU+NB/SB+rad subloop.

And if you're debating whether or not to put an extra $100+ to another pump or another rad, pick the radiator

(and this time I'm pretty damn sure my math is right, lol)

[adpr_02]

Hopefully when tests are ran, we will see some temperature figures as well.

I wonder how many degrees I would shave off if I put my 3 radiators in one loop and my cpu block alone in the other loop....

The way I see it, increased flow rate = useless if temperatures are unaffected.

Edit: I immagine that if I had my cpu loop and rad loops, the cpu loop (GTZ) would be much lower restriction. The water from the cpu would circulate more than the water for the radiators, hence more warm watter from my cpu would be re-circulated meaning that I get warmer water at my block?

I can't really get my head around how that works... could someone please point out if there is an error in my judgment.

[Vapor]

For the most part, the difference in degrees is a fraction of one. Even with the GTZ, a flow-loving block, going from 1.1GPM to 1.45GPM is only ~.5C in improvement (1) (2) for a typical OC. And that boost in flowrate is pretty dramatic. Flowrate's effect on radiators is minimal overall, but there are some gains to be had there if you have very low flow to start with.

However, the fact that there are measurable gains to be had just by routing your tubing differently or using a different pump top is always a positive.

The key is recognizing when it's advantageous to make a change to your setup....there are a lot of cases where going to a parallel setup will not result in a gain.

[nypunkgeek]

I reworked my setup with my T3 today. I was just running:

Res -> 240 rad -> CPU Block -> Mobo Block

Now I am doing two loops off the res:

Res --> 240 Rad -> VGA Block -> Mobo Block
Res --> 360 Rad -> CPU Block


My CPU temps are down about 5 degrees and putting my EVGA FTW 285GTX on water took it from low 80s when loaded to low 50s.

[MomijiTMO]

What cpu? i7 I'm guessing. That's more a rad boost than anything else. If you get bored, whack everything in serial and report back.