It can be done. A few things to keep in mind though.
Try to place the hole as close to the front face as you can--because of the draft needed for molded parts, the wall thickness is greater towards the front. There is also no room to make the plug flush so you will most likely loose the bay directly above the T3, and you will have to pull that bay cover when you are going to slide the unit out to fill it.
Have you tried using the front ports? In almost all installations when you tip your case onto its back the T3 becomes the highest point in the loop. To my mind, even the largest heaviest cases (think DB's back breakers) are pretty easy to rotate onto their backs. Especially compared to moving the case so you have access to both side panels, removing both side panels, removing the rez mounting screws, sliding the rez out (meaning extra tube length needed) and then not being able to bleed ALL of the air out, awkward pouring with a chance of any spillage migrating into your machine, then reversing the whole process to button everything back up.
To drain the system I usually tip the machine onto its back, replace the plugs with fittings and a few feet of scrap tube, tilt the case onto its face and drain right into a bucket. Because there are 2 ports you can puff some air into one side to really speed things up.
Because of the front ports and the three over flow basins I am totally comfortable with running the machine for a few hours on a new install with the plugs out so I can replace any air that accumulates in the T3's domed inner face.
I sent Skinnee a "mock case" so he could more easily use the front ports as they were intended and see if they really help. I am thinking a guy that has to fill and drain loop after loop for testing will find out pretty fast if it is really a useful feature or not lol.




Reply With Quote
Bookmarks