XSPC Razor 4870X2 Full Cover

[BitStream]

I've got a problem here I just can't resolve. I've stripped down my Sapphire HD 4870X2 graphics card and installed a XSPC Razor 4870X2 Full Cover water block. I followed the instructions to the letter but when I booted the PC the middle LED on the graphics card lit up which is a thermal problem. Indeed I could feel a lot of heat from the GPU nearest the DVI ports. So I stripped it down and cleaned up both the card and block with tim cleaner. This time I used MX-2 paste and a cut down credit card as a spreader. I applied a small amount to each GPU and memory chips and reassembled. This time it worked ok for about a minute then the dreaded LED came on and the graphics card shut down.

I am assuming that I am to blame here as the Sapphire is a reference card and the block is intended for use with it. Any thought what I might be doing wrong? The loop is working fine and liquid is flowing nicely. It's a second loop independent of the primary CPU one.

Cheers,

BitStream

[MomijiTMO]

what tim did you use the first time?

[eRazorzEDGE]

i've never known what lights go on for what reason, however, i do know for sure that they light up if a power cable is not plugged in or if the computer isn't gonna POST.

also, don't bottom out the screws around the perimeter of the card, just the 8 that are around each GPU. if you bottom out the others, the card becomes warped like a mofo even though it has stand-offs.

if it still doesn't work, try to remount the stock heatsink and fan. if it works with the stock heatsink and fan, i would bet something is shorting out when the XSPC block is installed, not a thermal issue.

[BitStream]

what tim did you use the first time?

I used the tim that came with the block.

i've never known what lights go on for what reason, however, i do know for sure that they light up if a power cable is not plugged in or if the computer isn't gonna POST.

These are the 5 LEDs on a 4870x2 and their meaning:

• D14 (R753) 6 Pin power unplugged
• D13 (R724) 8 Pin power unplugged
• D15 (R819) Overheating (Thermal issue)
• D5 (R323) GPU-1 (Master) No power
• D7 (R570) GPU-2 (Slave) No power

also, don't bottom out the screws around the perimeter of the card, just the 8 that are around each GPU. if you bottom out the others, the card becomes warped like a mofo even though it has stand-offs.

That's interesting, I didn't know that. I'll slacken them off a little and see if that helps.

if it still doesn't work, try to remount the stock heatsink and fan. if it works with the stock heatsink and fan, i would bet something is shorting out when the XSPC block is installed, not a thermal issue.

Well the middle LED is definitely showing a thermal issue and as I said, I can feel the heat coming from the GPU nearest the DVI port and the other remains cool.

Thanks for your help guys. I'll try slackening of the perimeter screws and report back.

[Helfarch]

You're running water through the block right?


Just sayin'

[hewi]

I had the exact same problem with my XSPC Razor block. Middle red led burning, meaning a thermal issue. I installed my block using the heat pads from the stock air solution, because I thought they were much beefier than the ones that shipped with the block....bad idea. I't was due to a bad mount and using them thicker pads, replaced the pads with the slimmer ones and made sure I tightened the block evenly around. Problem solved.

Ps. I re-tightened the mounting screws on the block after a week or so, they seem to "live" a little once the card heats up. Now its doing it's job very well sitting in a loop with an OC'd Q6600 and a hot chipset, load temps under 47C.

[MomijiTMO]

Hewi seems to have solved it

[BitStream]

I've taken it apart and assembled it too many times now and the thermal pads look beyond their sell by date. Can anybody recommend replacements as I need to get some quickly.

[Brad8988]

Chilled PC sell them.

[masska]

i'm sure you can find thermal pads local in the US.
if not, try these . I use Phobya pads and i really like them.

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.ph...ermal-pad.html

[xeon_1]

The led also light up if the card isn't seated properly into the pci-e slot.
Had that one happen to me once.

[eRazorzEDGE]

Well the middle LED is definitely showing a thermal issue and as I said, I can feel the heat coming from the GPU nearest the DVI port and the other remains cool.

the heat from the GPU nearest the DVI port is the number one GPU... i.e. the one that is being used to display. mine does the same thing, but no red light.

[BitStream]

I found the problem. It wasn't making sufficient contact with the VRMs. I used an extra bolt to hold it down at the far end of the card and now it works fine.

[eRazorzEDGE]

that's the only thing i don't like about the XSPC 4870x2 block is the lack of contact pressure on the right side of the card. i'm in the middle designing a good looing hold down for that part. if you want, i could make another for you.

[affiliate13]

that's the only thing i don't like about the XSPC 4870x2 block is the lack of contact pressure on the right side of the card. i'm in the middle designing a good looing hold down for that part. if you want, i could make another for you.

Yep i have the same issue, i put some clamps on the back end of the card and it pulled my temps on the VRMs down 17c.

If you have some pix of your modifications i would really like to see them.

At this point i am thinking off mounting a strip of metal with a pad on it diagonally across the right side of the block through the unused mounting holes used for the stock cooler.

[Pyr0]

yeah, the back end mounting is crap.
would love some pics of how you guys managed to clamp down the end of the block please

[F1McLarenAGR]

Exact same thing happened to me. It worked for about 3 days, then all of the sudden red LED, artifacts and the like. I took off the block and noticed that the middle chip, between the two GPU's had barely any paste on the copper. So I retested and sure enough, it happened again, no paste on the copper from the middle chip. I figured out how much to put on in a dot that it would make it touch the copper. After putting it back together and basically only tightening the middle 8 screws down, and the outer ones just enough to hold the board stable, I booted up to find the lowest temps I have ever seen. It has now run stable and cool for a good month now without any artifacts even under load!

[affiliate13]

yeah, the back end mounting is crap.
would love some pics of how you guys managed to clamp down the end of the block please

My clamps are truly awful garden jobs, ill throw up a pic when i get home later.
I am rebuilding with an EK IOH/SB block so i thought i would take the opportunity to re-mount the Razors with better back end compression since ill need to drain both loops anyway.

Exact same thing happened to me. It worked for about 3 days, then all of the sudden red LED, artifacts and the like. I took off the block and noticed that the middle chip, between the two GPU's had barely any paste on the copper. So I retested and sure enough, it happened again, no paste on the copper from the middle chip. I figured out how much to put on in a dot that it would make it touch the copper. After putting it back together and basically only tightening the middle 8 screws down, and the outer ones just enough to hold the board stable, I booted up to find the lowest temps I have ever seen. It has now run stable and cool for a good month now without any artifacts even under load!

I havent had an issue with the PLX chips, but yes afaik its best to start in the middle doing the screws diagonally working outwards.
The VRMs on the end of the cards dont seem to always make good contact with these blocks. I wish i had seen the HK ones before i bought these tbh, they are around the same price, look better and mount better too by some of the pix ive seen.
But no matter i think these can me made to do the job well enough with a minor mod.

[affiliate13]

would love some pics of how you guys managed to clamp down the end of the block please

The bottom card doesnt really benefit from the clamp, but i used a thicker pad on its back end as i could see light through it when i was putting the blocks on to begin with.
Ill make my changes over next weekend to see if i can improve this any if not ill get the HK blocks and sell these.
Here is my temporary solution:

[Sleepyzone]

I have the same problem. I should of spend a couple bucks more and got the EK block. What a POS. I cant even get it to post for 3 sec before the light comes on. I wonder if they got a batch of new bocks in that were made jacked up. People said it was a good block.. like wtf. I think im going to take it out and just shoot the sucker with my 44.

[screwtech02]

They seem to have the same issues with the 4850x2 blocks also, bricked 4 cards with em......