LIAN LI PC-A05NB watercooled parts & thoughts

[Diverge]

I just kinda finished up my new build (a couple minor things I need to do). But it's very similar to the OP's post, since it uses an equally small case (Lian Li PC-A06F).

Case: Lian Li PC-A06F
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-750TX
MB: DFI JR X58-T3H6
CPU: i7 920 D0
RAM: 6gigs OCZ OCZ3B2000C9LV6GK
Videocard: EVGA 280GTX
HD: 3x OCZ Vertex SSD 30GB in raid0, 1x old 60gb harddrive from my ps3 (for non-SSD storage)
HD_Rack: SUPERMICRO CSE-M14TB 2.5" mobile rack

Fans:
1x 140mm Intake fan (Stock Lian Li)
3x 120mm Intake Yate loon Mediums on the Rad
1x 140mm Exhaust Scythe KAZE MARU 1900rpm, 104cfm (replacing stock 120mm in case top)
Scythe ? Fan controller

Vital watercooling parts:
Feser 360 rad
Apogee GTZ
MCW30 on NB, modded for low profile
DTEK Fuzion GFX 2 GPU block w/ unisink
Primochill Typhoon III res
D5 pump

Here's some cell phone pics of it:
Front View:ISO View: Burry Inside View:

Here's some misc pics during assembly/brainstorming the best way to do things:


Pics are crappy.. oh well. I ended up not using the 90's on the CPU outlet and MCW30 inlet, and went with stubby barbs, and tubing; as was suggested.

The temp measurement on the far left is the air temp coming out of rad fans, and the one next to it is the water temp in the res. I plan to add 2 more temp sensors, and change up the order ss follows:
Rad Fan RPM________Front Intake Fan RPM____Top Exhaust Fan RPM______
Rad Fan Temp Out___Front Intake Air Temp In__Top Exhaust Air Temp Out__Water Temp

I wanted to throw some Pentosin G11 into the system, so that is why I have a UV LED mounting inside the res... but using Ethylene Glycol voids the Typhoon III warranty... and I'm not too sure if it would make it fall apart or something So I may just take out the UV LED, since the purple light can be annoying.