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Thread: HOW TO REMOVE i7 IHS

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejanh View Post
    Should be able to...

    By the way, how did you clean the core from the solder?
    Would appear he used acetone to remove the solder right after he heated it up to remove the IHS to begin with.

  2. #27
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    Idle of 21*C and 100% load of 30*C...we 'air-cooled' people can only dream...
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  3. #28
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    So if I successfully remove the IHS on my i7, I would need to remove the latch from the cpu socket I guess?
    The one that keeps the cpu in place I mean...
    lol... This forum requires that you wait 70 seconds between posts. Please try again in 8 seconds.
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  4. #29
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    Thanks for your feedback!

    Quote Originally Posted by liftedcj7on44s View Post
    ... got any hi res shots of the Die BTW?
    I'll add some to post #1.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChaosMinionX View Post
    Would appear he used acetone to remove the solder right after he heated it up to remove the IHS to begin with.
    The acetone is only used to clean the Heatspreader. Take a razorblade to plane the solder tin from the core. Intels tin is malleable @ ambient temperature.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fafeifa View Post
    Can you run the core naked under a regular Heatsink on air or you need some shims?
    It depends on your "regular" heatsink. Intel-boxed-cooler=no way because of the push pins. A DIE is fragile like porcelain. If you concentrate high pressure on a small area, it'll break. You should prefer a cooling solution with 4 bolts or anyting like this to press the cooler firmly down to the cpu surface. For example just mod the boxed cooler (4 skrews M3x40, 12 plastic washers,4nuts, 4 knurled nuts)

    BTW: I don't think, that an IHS removal makes sense for an air cooling setup. Get a nice cooler and sand the IHS down.
    http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...er::11849.html

    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett View Post
    So if I successfully remove the IHS on my i7, I would need to remove the latch from the cpu socket I guess?
    The one that keeps the cpu in place I mean...
    Removing the latch isn't necessary in most cases. Look at the bottom of your Heatsink if it fits.

  5. #30
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    Just insane!

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garrett View Post
    So if I successfully remove the IHS on my i7, I would need to remove the latch from the cpu socket I guess?
    The one that keeps the cpu in place I mean...
    Lol the increased possibility of bending those pins makes me more queazy than removing the IHS.

  7. #32
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    A very good guide. Thanks.

  8. #33
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    damn

    very nice how to but i won't be doing this i think lolz
    proud to be from Belguim ^^

    Lightpainting and hardware are my life!

  9. #34
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    would this be good for phase? excellent guide
    Quote Originally Posted by L0ud View Post
    So many opinions and so few screenshots

  10. #35
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    Oh.... This is just too AWESOME, you are awesome.
    And it would be even more awesome if you could put up a alittle more detailed guide of the "How the story continues: The custom-waterblock."-part of the guide.
    I'm really tempted doing this myself
    So if you dont have more pics, you can maybe atleast try explaining more like "step-by-step".

    I hope that its not all too much expected

  11. #36
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    I have already posted this step-by-step guide here. Believe it or not: one day later, XS was down and my posts were lost.
    Thanks to your awesomeness, zerophax, I am working on a new guide now. Will post the link in a few days.

    To the XS-server owners: STOP OVERCLOCKING YOUR RAID CONTROLLERS, WE NEED A STABLE FORUM!

  12. #37
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    This is so insane, I would be too scared to try myself, you got ballz dude




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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobbylite View Post
    would this be good for phase? excellent guide
    lol i dont think so...condesation on a ihs i 1 thing,but on a direct die...?....water+direct die = no good i think.chilled waterblock should be just fine.


    i have cracked naked northbridge chips before,same things as cpu naked i would imagine.my mcw-30 cracked the corner right off of my old dfi 680i.must VERY careful tighting anything down on something like this,slow and even.1/8 in tire lug patern turns only til snug,then done..no more.


    i am impressed with your thread dude.tho imust admit my new C0 stepping e8400 with my new multi core(mc)dd tdk block at 30c 1.28 volts 4ghz keeps me content.tho....20 c would be nice =) i am certian i could pop mine off and put my new dd block on it being its 4 screw turndown setup and i know the miamal pressure and method to tighten without damging now.


    now a phase change head on direct die i would imagine from a critical pressure point would crack it instantly because the second u gently tightend down on the corners the actual phase "neck" with all the plumbing,wiring,thick foam insulation etc would pull 1/8 inch one way as soon as u let go and .....crack!
    Last edited by railmeat; 05-18-2009 at 05:17 PM.
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  14. #39
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    So... How much do I have to shell out to get my hands on a direct-die WC block of my own?

    Seriosly man, WOW. I wish I could get my Xeon running 30c load @4

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  15. #40
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    might try this. it doesnt look like its dificult

  16. #41
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    wow, props! You're much braver than I could ever be. Wow... that's all I got to say.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by railmeat View Post
    lol i dont think so...condesation on a ihs i 1 thing,but on a direct die...?....water+direct die = no good i think.chilled waterblock should be just fine.


    i have cracked naked northbridge chips before,same things as cpu naked i would imagine.my mcw-30 cracked the corner right off of my old dfi 680i.must VERY careful tighting anything down on something like this,slow and even.1/8 in tire lug patern turns only til snug,then done..no more.


    i am impressed with your thread dude.tho imust admit my new C0 stepping e8400 with my new multi core(mc)dd tdk block at 30c 1.28 volts 4ghz keeps me content.tho....20 c would be nice =) i am certian i could pop mine off and put my new dd block on it being its 4 screw turndown setup and i know the miamal pressure and method to tighten without damging now.


    now a phase change head on direct die i would imagine from a critical pressure point would crack it instantly because the second u gently tightend down on the corners the actual phase "neck" with all the plumbing,wiring,thick foam insulation etc would pull 1/8 inch one way as soon as u let go and .....crack!
    What is the issue with phase? This thread shows direct water cooling on die to begin with... I'm not sure what you're warning against

  18. #43
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    VERY nice results man!

    I mean it
    e8600: 6261 mhz (LN2)
    e8500: 5830 mhz (dice)

    Quote Originally Posted by xaxis View Post
    It's really unfeasible, unpractical, and for all intensive purposes... SHOULD NONE THE LESS BE ATTEMPTED!

  19. #44
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    Sorry for bumping this thread, but where did you get these razor blades?

  20. #45
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    Ltd. edition, no longer available
    The Croma razor blades provide a soft and smoothing shave and fit all Intel processors.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by corross View Post
    Ltd. edition, no longer available
    The Croma razor blades provide a soft and smoothing shave and fit all Intel processors.
    So this guide is identical to what is necessary to remove the IHS for my QX9650?

  22. #47
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    Sweeeet!

    I think you can remove the IHS from pretty much all CPUs. Not sure tho..
    Then again there is always this
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=209279
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fafeifa View Post
    I haven't done it yet, now evaluating the risks before getting my hands dirty.
    I used steel wool to clean the solder from the die
    "If It Doesn't Overclock Its Broken"
    "NexGen Overclocking"
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  24. #49
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    Insane, simply insane.

    I must try this with my new TEC+TRUE cooling.

  25. #50
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    @OP nice work m8.....

    thanks for the info....

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