Fan help needed

[Cathar]

Best fans I ever tested for noise vs air-flow on radiators was the Scythe S-Flex F, and fit them to a resistance (ie. not PWM) based fan controller.

The Sharkoon Golfballs I found to be quite noisy for the performance they offered in comparison.

I'll see if I can dig up some of my old test data, but I distinctly recall the Scythe SFF's pretty much owning the stage at every level up to their peak rated voltage.

Here's some data graphs of the Scythe SFF's vs the Sharkoon Golfball's vs the Yate-Loons

Scythe SFF



Sharkoon SE2000



YateLoon

[[XC] riptide]

^^^^ Hey Cathar! Hows things?

[Waterlogged]

WOW, nice to see you back Cathar!

I QUIT....My eyes are starting to bleed and my brain is turning to mush from looking at so many different fans and trying to sort all the BS. I think I'm just gonna break the piggy bank and go with the S-FF's. I've got S-FG's in an air cooled rig and I'm more than happy with them and expect I'll be just as happy with the "F's".

[Waterlogged]

Sorry for the resurrection guys but I still need a bit of help for this setup because I kinda got boned on the one I had in mind.

This setup was supposed to have a Super Flower SF610 in one of the 5.25" bays to display temps, RPM's and other system info...well, it turns out the SF610 doesn't like Ubuntu (or Ubuntu doesn't like the SF610 ). No big deal I thought, I'll just pick up something else that caught my eye a while ago. So I got one of these on Sat as it had everything I really needed, temps and RPM monitoring. Well, it seems the description isn't entirely accurate, if the fans dip below 1000 RPM's, the bloody thing starts screaming and shows "ERR" on the fan display and that's a serious problem as the S-Flex "F's" run ~630 RPM @ max under volt on the controllers mentioned earlier in this topic (btw, I tested them outside the system and they're awesome, very sensitive).

What I need is something simple (like in the link) that shows temps and fan RPM (but doesn't control the fans) and is cheap ($50 or less). Would prefer a red display but I'll accept anything that doesn't look like dog at this point. If nothing pops up, I guess I'll have to do without any monitoring at all as I'm 100% set on running these fan mounted controllers....at least for the time being. If they fail me in some manner, I'll probably look at other options at that point.

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

Scythe Kaze master? Crystalfontz 633?

[RCG_Bex]

F3's for the win! Here they cost £4 a pop, Scythe's cost ~£11 a pop! Prefer the performance of the F3's though personally. I can't speak for the yates as I've not had a set myself.

~Bex

[NaeKuh]

Kaze master controls the fan but the fan controller is weak.

I burn mine out and no longer use it for the fan control. Instead i use it for the 4 VFD intigrated temp probes displays. :P

[Waterlogged]

Scythe Kaze master? Crystalfontz 633?

...but they both offer fan control.

Actually, I was browsing Cf last night..along with Matrix Orbital. If there's a way to hook up the CFAH2004A-RMI-JT to a SCAB, I might just be interested. I'm kinda stupid when it comes to that stuff so I'd need a fair bit of help getting all the right stuff.

F3's for the win! Here they cost £4 a pop, Scythe's cost ~£11 a pop! Prefer the performance of the F3's though personally. I can't speak for the yates as I've not had a set myself.

~Bex

I went with the S-Flex "F's" because I was limited by current draw, the F3's exceeded that limit.

[NaeKuh]

Orbitals require dallas digital temps.

Unless your using the 3 prong digital temps the Oribital is a no go.

I have 3 WL, so i know. :T

...but they both offer fan control.

I went with the S-Flex "F's" because I was limited by current draw, the F3's exceeded that limit.

i thought the priciple with DC motors is that they only spun as fast as as the current they got.

So if you didnt have enough current in the controller, it would only cause it to spin slower no?

[NaeKuh]

Waterlogged
with SCAB rated 1amp per channel x 4

oh CF has addons?

[ILikeCosmosS]

this a bit nooby question but what are closed and open corners ?
i found some decent cheap red led fans for me, are those apevia multicolor fans good?

[Waterlogged]

For those interested in what is going to be monitored.

3 fans- 2 S-Flex "F's" on separate channels (1 for each fan controller), and 1 Zalman Fatal1ty FC-ZV9 (actually a bit embarrassed to admit I own this but I like the way it looked, works good enough on a 6600LE). Specs are completely unknown for the Zalman. I will also be checking a DDC 3.2 RPM's.

Temps- CPU, GPU are certain, I'd like to maybe also do a case temp and possibly a water temp as well.

Edit: I managed to kludge a fuse for my DMM and did several tests on the Zalman. Max reading I got was .46A which would make 5.52W.

Orbitals require dallas digital temps.

Unless your using the 3 prong digital temps the Oribital is a no go.

I have 3 WL, so i know. :T

Well, Orbitals for me were way over priced so I ruled them out.

i thought the priciple with DC motors is that they only spun as fast as as the current they got.

So if you didnt have enough current in the controller, it would only cause it to spin slower no?

AFAIK, your right....but my fan controllers were only designed to handle 2.5W. The fans automatically spin up to full on startup then drop down to temp controlled, if I were to put fans that pull more than 2.5W, the controller would fry when it would try to under volt that fan because it would be absorbing more power than it was designed to dissipate as heat.

[Waterlogged]

OK, new day...new stupid idea.

Thanks to NaeKuh and coolmiester I came up with an idea that's crazy enough that it just might work. I currently have in use (in another case) a Kaze Master that the second channel pot is burned out but I'm able to see RPM and temps (I have a simple 3 speed Cooljag fan controller switch controlling RPM's). I was wondering, what if I removed all the pots from the Kaze? Would the unit still work as just a display or would I have to replace the pots with short leads to keep the power flowing? Like this, I can have a clean front panel (knob free) and a nice looking display that'll show everything I need it to. I'll just get a new Kaze to replace the one I'll be hacking.

[Waterlogged]

OK, new day...new stupid idea.

Thanks to NaeKuh and coolmiester I came up with an idea that's crazy enough that it just might work. I currently have in use (in another case) a Kaze Master that the second channel pot is burned out but I'm able to see RPM and temps (I have a simple 3 speed Cooljag fan controller switch controlling RPM's). I was wondering, what if I removed all the pots from the Kaze? Would the unit still work as just a display or would I have to replace the pots with short leads to keep the power flowing? Like this, I can have a clean front panel (knob free) and a nice looking display that'll show everything I need it to. I'll just get a new Kaze to replace the one I'll be hacking.

OH YEAH, it works!!!

The mad scientist in me wouldn't let me go to bed until I tried this and after a slight mishap with channel 2 on the first attempt, channel 1 works great with no pot. Now I just need to get 2 more Kaze Masters, whip up a new face plate and I'll be set.

[Waterlogged]

If anyone's interested, I'll post up a "how to" when I get the new unit for this some time next week.

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

Yeah for sure, I'm obsessed with reading XS so I will definitely enjoy the howto XD

[Waterlogged]

OK, dredging this up again, hopefully it'll be safe to post this.

Here is the How to:

Kaze Master conversion < Click it

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

Hey man that is GREAT

the display looks really really good and that fan controller kit seems really handy, did you pick those up at Fcpu? or should I search the net for a store....

[Waterlogged]

Thanks SNiiPE.

AFAIK, FCPU is the only States side retailer. They have 2 versions of 2 different models. They come with and without the 3 pin connectors and 2 different temp ranges (not really far enough apart for my liking). I chose the NMT-3 due to that being the lower range of the 2.

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html...o.x=11&go.y=13