Cheers Guys.

Anubis: Yes.

Bentleya: 3ds Max.

Yilmaz: Cheers my friend - Greetings from Canada!


Project Update:

Today, we’ll mock-up and do some measuring - then we can design the PLED mount, generate some 3d cad drawings and have the part fabricated. We’ll actually have two parts made; one for the outer layer that will be seen, and one that will serve as the underlying structure, attached to the existing vertical drive structure and have the PLEDs mounted into. As mentioned, the design needs to permit access to the drive bays. While it may be easy to gain access while there’s nothing in there, it would be nice if Daniel could change drives without needing a cutting torch to get the PLED mount off.

Ohtay, pics time.





Hey, I know you…

Will you be a kind TJ07 or fight me every step of the way?


I need to take a moment and pay tribute to the Zen Frog – his blessing will provide the positive chi needed to perform a successful build. Bat$hit crazy? I’ll let you decide.




The #6x32 screw is there for scale - in case you thought he was huge… but then I couldn’t carry him in my pocket… “Is that a porcelain frog in your pocket, or are you…” Ok, I stop now.


Now that I’ve brought my sanity into question it’s time to move on.


The next step is to carefully put the side panels into their protective sleeves. Why orange you ask? Well, when I bring them to have the windows cut, they stand a better chance of survival if they are easily seen. Things have a tendency to disappear in metal shops and the next thing you know you’re standing in front of a guy shrugging his shoulders; which is never good.









Once the side panels are safe, I can relax a bit…


Ok, time for some destruction…




Doh… not yet…




Next, we’ll put the PLEDs in place and get a feel for things.



That’s working…




Yikes, That's going to be a tight fit. Question: why does such a tiny little thing need so much, errr… butt? Are two PCBs really necessary? Well, it is what it is so we’ll have to press on.





Let’s see what the minimal clearance is from the bottom to the top…




23.5mm – Ok…


Now let’s check the available space.



We’ll measure from the closest potential point of contact. We also have to keep in mind that the side panels have grooves at the front edge that need to slide into place, just inside the unibody.





Gah… That’s not much room to work with. We’ve also got to consider the 3mm of clearance we’ll need for the side window. We could go with a thinner window but best not to; it would be more susceptible to cracking. No, we’ll have to figure this out factoring a 3mm window.



Ok, time for some 3d software seat time.

Everything is measured up and we’re ready to click the “make art” button and export some dwg files for laser cutting. We’ll go with 1.5mm (.060) Aluminum – it’ll do the job nicely.




A basic illustration of the part. We’ll have two made and use one for the outer aesthetic piece, and the other will serve as the structural mount.





After being laser cut, the piece will be bent to provide a clean front edge that will meet up with the outer edge of the existing vertical drive structure. Another reason we chose 1.5mm Al; once powder coated, the two should join together nicely to finish the look.


Thanks for checking in - Stay tuned.