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Thread: Whats the Best Coolant to buy?! ... Come on Bro!

  1. #51
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    What does those "Kill Colis" from Petra do?

  2. #52
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    it is made of silver which is a natural Biocide when in a fluid

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by HamidFULL View Post
    Awesome topic thanks men! and what about this? :



    Swiftech use this (HydrX) for all of Swiftech water cooling kits!
    HydrX is the only coolant to use if you value your warranty with swiftech

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    Awesome topic! Keep coming!
    Quote Originally Posted by rogard View Post
    HydrX is the only coolant to use if you value your warranty with swiftech
    Tnx Man and what about it performance and durability I heard it can do for 2 years
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chruschef View Post
    don't mix metals, ever. that simple.
    come on...don't be so strict. Mixing metals can be done just not the best of ways to go about setting your loop
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  6. #56
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    I have a MCR-320 and 220 + a D-Tek Fuzion V1 (Both copper, so no problems with those), but I'm thinking about buying a Koolance res.? Will that give me a problem with corrosion?

    I'm thinking about buying either the Koolance fluid or the Feser One (F1, both blue). Will that work okay? I have clear coils so I need some colour to get the piffy look over the WC-system.

    Distilled water isn't easy to get your hands on here were I live.
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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockBreaker View Post
    I have a MCR-320 and 220 + a D-Tek Fuzion V1 (Both copper, so no problems with those), but I'm thinking about buying a Koolance res.? Will that give me a problem with corrosion?

    I'm thinking about buying either the Koolance fluid or the Feser One (F1, both blue). Will that work okay? I have clear coils so I need some colour to get the piffy look over the WC-system.

    Distilled water isn't easy to get your hands on here were I live.
    Don't know about the res but as far as water is concerned you might want to look for demineralized water. Basically the water you put in irons (not as good as distilled but close enough).

    As for the color do you need UV reactivness? Printer ink (taken from a cartridge maybe?) will give you an intense colour and still not affect temps.

    Hope it helps. You can probably find ironing water in your local store.
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  8. #58
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    I don't need the UV-reactiveness, but the solution from Feser and Koolance is simple and easy to use.

    One thing we do have, is the deionized water-stuff for batteries. I think I will be able to get hold of that.
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    Water cooling system

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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogard View Post
    HydrX is the only coolant to use if you value your warranty with swiftech
    No i will NEVER use hydrx. Its nasty stuff.

    It leaves mystery jelly cloging your injectors.

    And about 75% of us on this forum use injectors so hydrx is a BIG NO NO

    Also i have never had the need to RMA anything from h2o. I cant see a scenario minus bad acrylic, or bad pump where i would need to RMA. And under those situations its approved regardless what coolant you used.

    Dont mix metals from the start (this is what vendors try to save on there warrenty),
    then you wont need to use additives except anti microbes, so you drop a silver ingot or silver in your loop, and let the silver nuke your Distilled.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alexontherocks View Post
    come on...don't be so strict. Mixing metals can be done just not the best of ways to go about setting your loop
    :X

    Sorry alex, but i am a firm member of we dont mix metals on XS fan club.
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  10. #60
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    Naekuh: You have the Koolance reservoir I'm thinking about buying. Do you think any corrosion-problems will occur with the folllowing equipment?

    MCR-320 and 220, D-Tek Fuzion V1 plus the Koolance res?

    Edit: Btw. I was accused for beeing a spam bot for this post.
    Last edited by LockBreaker; 01-03-2009 at 12:49 PM.
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    Water cooling system

    MCR-320 and MCR-220
    D-Tek Fuzion V1
    7/16" ID 5/8" OD
    MCP-655

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    "Thing is, I no longer consider you a member but, rather a parasite...one that should be expunged."

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthBeavis View Post
    Dude, I got no problem, but some might be offended. Especially lately.

    As for my coolant, I ran 60% Koolance fluid and 40% distilled for 2 1/2 years straight with no growth (no mixed metals though) and no sediment/buildup/gunk...using a STORM v1 no less.

    I like Koolance's bottle. Has a rubber hose on the top that makes filling GREAT!

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    Quote Originally Posted by LockBreaker View Post
    Naekuh: You have the Koolance reservoir I'm thinking about buying. Do you think any corrosion-problems will occur with the folllowing equipment?

    MCR-320 and 220, D-Tek Fuzion V1 plus the Koolance res?

    Edit: Btw. I was accused for beeing a spam bot for this post.
    nope besides the stop plugs which i believe koolance fixed, i had no corrosion.
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  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by headala View Post
    Dude, I got no problem, but some might be offended. Especially lately.

    As for my coolant, I ran 60% Koolance fluid and 40% distilled for 2 1/2 years straight with no growth (no mixed metals though) and no sediment/buildup/gunk...using a STORM v1 no less.

    I like Koolance's bottle. Has a rubber hose on the top that makes filling GREAT!
    Sometimes people need a little offending But really, I don't see how anyone can take offense.
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  15. #65
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    Distilled Water and PT Nuke.




  16. #66
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    Well I have the PT-nuke plus some of this stuff:

    http://petrastechshop.com/peg11coadb4o.html

    I have two bottles of these things. Will the combination of these two bottles, pt-nuke and distilled do it?
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    Water cooling system

    MCR-320 and MCR-220
    D-Tek Fuzion V1
    7/16" ID 5/8" OD
    MCP-655

  17. #67
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    Primochill PC ICE clear works great for me. no buildup or anything.
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  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chruschef View Post
    it really depends.

    Color: Feser + Distilled(mix until you get the exact color you want)
    Clear: Distilled + prescribed amount of PT nuke <-- Better performing, but the difference is minimal
    For color, is this ok?

    Feser One + Distilled + PT Nuke

    I was wondering if I should add PT Nuke to my coolant

    I only used 1 liter of distilled so that will be about 1 drop of PT Nuke

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockBreaker View Post
    Well I have the PT-nuke plus some of this stuff:

    http://petrastechshop.com/peg11coadb4o.html

    I have two bottles of these things. Will the combination of these two bottles, pt-nuke and distilled do it?
    I have the same stuff. Someone here said not to bother with it, if using distilled water and PT nuke, and not mixing metals, and it it might create gunk in your block. But i've read more then a few people mixing those 3 together.

    I think I want to learn for myself if it is bad. I don't care too much about losing a little tiny bit of cooling, for some color, and anti-corrosive (even if i don't need it, and piece of mind.

    People talk about mixing copper and aluminum, but what about other metals such as brass, nickel, steel, ect? Somewhere in my reading, someone said that if 2 metals are far apart on the this chart, you risk galvanic corrosion.

    http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/c...n/galvanic.htm

    if that is true, what about the distance from copper and brass on the chart? (most fitting are nickel plated brass - the plating is not always perfect.. the threads on my dangerden fill port are already flaking, and I haven't even used it yet lol).

    So someone enlighten me without just telling me to read the stickies (which don't even mention cooling fluid)
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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diverge View Post
    I have the same stuff. Someone here said not to bother with it, if using distilled water and PT nuke, and not mixing metals, and it it might create gunk in your block. But i've read more then a few people mixing those 3 together.

    I think I want to learn for myself if it is bad. I don't care too much about losing a little tiny bit of cooling, for some color, and anti-corrosive (even if i don't need it, and piece of mind.

    People talk about mixing copper and aluminum, but what about other metals such as brass, nickel, steel, ect? Somewhere in my reading, someone said that if 2 metals are far apart on the this chart, you risk galvanic corrosion.

    http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/c...n/galvanic.htm

    if that is true, what about the distance from copper and brass on the chart? (most fitting are nickel plated brass - the plating is not always perfect.. the threads on my dangerden fill port are already flaking, and I haven't even used it yet lol).

    So someone enlighten me without just telling me to read the stickies (which don't even mention cooling fluid)
    There are no problems when using copper, brass, nickel, silver, gold and some stainless steels all in the same loop. Silver and gold are impervious to the effects of GC as is platinum and I believe some titaniums.
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  21. #71
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    Hehe, sure. Copper and brass are close on the table. Brass is partially copper anyway, it's an alloy, copper is pure. The only materials we don't want is aluminum and steel. Steel because it rusts, aluminum cuz by now you have seen enuff pics of what it can do.

    Ohh yea, unobtanium is pretty good stuff to use, very hard to find though.
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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conumdrum View Post
    Ohh yea, unobtanium is pretty good stuff to use, very hard to find though.
    But couple it with some ultrasonic wave emitters and you can spend a very pleasant afternoon working your way to earth's core.
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  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diverge View Post
    I have the same stuff. Someone here said not to bother with it, if using distilled water and PT nuke, and not mixing metals, and it it might create gunk in your block. But i've read more then a few people mixing those 3 together.

    I think I want to learn for myself if it is bad. I don't care too much about losing a little tiny bit of cooling, for some color, and anti-corrosive (even if i don't need it, and piece of mind.

    People talk about mixing copper and aluminum, but what about other metals such as brass, nickel, steel, ect? Somewhere in my reading, someone said that if 2 metals are far apart on the this chart, you risk galvanic corrosion.

    http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/c...n/galvanic.htm

    if that is true, what about the distance from copper and brass on the chart? (most fitting are nickel plated brass - the plating is not always perfect.. the threads on my dangerden fill port are already flaking, and I haven't even used it yet lol).

    So someone enlighten me without just telling me to read the stickies (which don't even mention cooling fluid)
    The blue thing is more for the colour part of the build. I don't find clear water as interesting as something with a blue colour scheme in it.

    It's most for the look. If I change the water oftenly, will it be okay to use it then?

    Summary: G11 + PT Nuke + Distilled = Okay?
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    Water cooling system

    MCR-320 and MCR-220
    D-Tek Fuzion V1
    7/16" ID 5/8" OD
    MCP-655

  24. #74
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    actually WL silver and copper i hear does nasty things when they come in contact with each other...

    http://www.springerlink.com/content/f23j0ux68276j536/

    During elec-trorefining, the silver in the copper matrix dissolves, but it is rapidly removed from the elec-trolyte by a variety of reactions.

    Of course this is majorly speed up. :P
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  25. #75
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    I'm not quite catching up with you now Naekuh?

    Does it have something to do with my mixture of liguids or is it something else?
    Last edited by LockBreaker; 01-04-2009 at 12:34 PM.
    My gaming rig

    Core i7 920 C0/C1@ 2.66 Ghz
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    MIST 1000w
    LG W2600HP-BF
    Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB

    Water cooling system

    MCR-320 and MCR-220
    D-Tek Fuzion V1
    7/16" ID 5/8" OD
    MCP-655

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