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Thread: Ahhh! Corrosion! (and gunk)

  1. #1
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    Ahhh! Corrosion! (and gunk)

    Now, I've had this issue before back when I was using the invisible clear Feser One stuff, but since then, I've cleaned everything up nicely using boiling water,vinegar and distilled water, so get allthe reminants out of the loop and the components.

    Anyway, I took my look apart for its quaterly clean and refill, and this is what met my eyes!









    Just look at that barb!!





    And look what that did to my Supreme, no wonder my temps have gone frommid 30's to low 50's under load!

    Now its just Distilled water an G11 for me

  2. #2
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    The picture of the barb looks like the nickel plating has came off, they are brass remember.


    Still, that GPU block looks horrid. UV Blue Feser? I had an EK full cover with red Feser pumping through it for months and the only staining I got was a pink stain to the plexi.


    oooh, exciting.

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    Was it the dye or the pre-mixed stuff?

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    I wonder if some vinegar could have been left in the loop to cause that. That's pretty messed up.

    Distilled water and G11 won't kill growth on its own. You need some kind of biocide/algaecide like PT nuke or algaecide.

  5. #5
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    Nah, all that was in this loop was bi-distilled water, and like 3 drops of G11

  6. #6
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    Err what is in your loop that is aluminium? It would be more helpful if you could list everything in your loop you haven't mentioned already.


    The blue stuff looks more like dye residue but you didn't use it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MomijiTMO View Post
    Err what is in your loop that is aluminium? It would be more helpful if you could list everything in your loop you haven't mentioned already.


    The blue stuff looks more like dye residue but you didn't use it.
    No alu anywhere near my loop, and tthere never has been. I was using:

    EK Supreme
    EK FC18/19
    BIX2
    DDC w. Alphacool top
    XSPC Bay res (w. little pump inside)
    Tygon.

  8. #8
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    No Alu in the loop? Then what was corroding? >.<
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  9. #9
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    That's not corrosion. That's what's left over after your "pretty" and useless G11 that you added. G11 is a corrosion inhibitor, you're not mixing metals.... so guess what, you don't need it. Distilled + silver ingots/coils next time will yield better results.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baleful View Post
    That's not corrosion. That's what's left over after your "pretty" and useless G11 that you added. G11 is a corrosion inhibitor, you're not mixing metals.... so guess what, you don't need it. Distilled + silver ingots/coils next time will yield better results.
    I think there's more to it than that. Look how the plating was eaten off of that barb. What type of metal is that plate bit in the CPU block made of, and how long has it been scoured like that?

    --Matt
    Last edited by mattkosem; 12-16-2008 at 06:56 AM.

  11. #11
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    Its been in for 7 months, its stainless steel as far as I know, and its been in that condition since the day I got it.

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    It's actually hard to tell from his pic if the barb is stripped of it's coating..... if it is then you had something else in your loop besides distilled + G11. All that blue crap on your VGA block is G11 gunk.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mankz_91 View Post
    Its been in for 7 months, its stainless steel as far as I know, and its been in that condition since the day I got it.
    So your barb has always looked like that?

    It's hard to tell from your pic exactly what is going on....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Baleful View Post
    So your barb has always looked like that?

    It's hard to tell from your pic exactly what is going on....
    He's talking about the plate, not the barb.

    Maybe some left over vinegar that reacted negatively with the G11? Is that a huge air pocket on the lines to/from the rad? Have you tried tipping the system to the side (might want to detatch the fillport for such a test to have it upright).
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    Last edited by mattkosem; 12-16-2008 at 07:13 AM.
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    hmm gunk, not enough cleaning before use? its always good to disassemble each part, inspect and clean well...

    staining in copper, use ketchup on the copper part, should remove it nicely, then rinse well...
    acrylic suppose to be easily cleaned with distilled water...

    normal of some gunk to get stuck on the accelerator plate of the ek supreme, which is why regular check ups is needed...

    the barb is probably just stained, try put it in boiling distilled, they re-use or replace...

    for g11 mix with distilled, its 10% per liter, the usual recommended amount. and like Baleful said it, 3 drops G11 is worthless. if you wanted color, i really suggest using colored tubing.
    that 3 drops is for PT nuke and distilled water...

    colored tubing, distilled water and silver coils or just 2 drops pt nuke FTW!
    Last edited by septim; 12-16-2008 at 07:13 AM.

  16. #16
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    People still use vinegar? Must be an XS thing


    Was anything physically damaged though? I hope nothing was, it sucks to lose equipment....

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    nothing looks bitten into by "corrosion" just some staining...

    lucky he don't see staining outside the o-ring on the gpu block... else change o-ring time for him...

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    I once had a similar reaction to the nickel plating on my barbs while cleaning a radiator with a radiator cleaning fluid. But I doubt that the small amount of vinegar that could be left after cleaning could have done that?

    My barbs looked more brass colored than yours. Yours look more copper colored. Maybe it's just different qualities of brass or the camera fooling me.
    But maybe something caused micro galvanic corrosion in the brass? Eating the zinc an leaving the copper? I know that we usually don't worry about micro galvanic corrosion but I'm kinda out of regular ideas here...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baleful View Post
    People still use vinegar? Must be an XS thing


    Was anything physically damaged though? I hope nothing was, it sucks to lose equipment....
    i hear that lol you see more horror storys from people who attempt to use vinegar on 400 dollars worth of cooling parts then hot water

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    What kind of distilled water did you use? What was the source of the water? The reason why I ask is because of one very important factor that many fail to even consider and that is fluoride content. It's extremely reactive even in the smallest of amounts and distilling does not get rid of it. Only reverse Osmosis does. That's why you have some people on here from different parts of the world that have no problems and others do. It goes by territory as some do add fluoride to water and others do not. Things to take into consideration as well is that many people will list fluoride in 'ppm'. Some will list it as 0ppm but still may actually contain it as they are just not giving you the full information as it could actually be 0.9ppm and they simply drop the .9 part which apparently is legal to do. The smallest amount of Fluoride is very reactive as the fluoride used by municipalities to dump in the water in the name of health actually comes from aluminum smelt plants. Basically a toxic waste that is 20 times stronger then natural fluorine. I wrote this somewhere in the forums before but I don't think people take it serious enough. You have expensive parts...Protect them!

    Here is the MSDS sheet for the stuff they put in the water in the US, Europe and Ireland from the very company that makes it. http://www.pelchem.com/pdf/H2SiF6-MSDS.pdf

    If you take a look it shows this...
    INCOMPATIBLE PRODUCTS
    Steel, glass, copper, aluminium. Seperate from strong bases, food and foodstuffs.
    Last edited by Sadasius; 12-16-2008 at 08:45 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sadasius View Post
    What kind of distilled water did you use? What was the source of the water? The reason why I ask is because of one very important factor that many fail to even consider and that is fluoride content. It's extremely reactive even in the smallest of amounts and distilling does not get rid of it. Only reverse Osmosis does. That's why you have some people on here from different parts of the world that have no problems and others do. It goes by territory as some do add fluoride to water and others do not. Things to take into consideration as well is that many people will list fluoride in 'ppm'. Some will list it as 0ppm but still may actually contain it as they are just not giving you the full information as it could actually be 0.9ppm and they simply drop the .9 part which apparently is legal to do. The smallest amount of Fluoride is very reactive as the fluoride used by municipalities to dump in the water in the name of health actually comes from aluminum smelt plants. Basically a toxic waste that is 20 times stronger then natural fluorine. I wrote this somewhere in the forums before but I don't think people take it serious enough. You have expensive parts...Protect them!

    Here is the MSDS sheet for the stuff they put in the water in the US, Europe and Ireland from the very company that makes it. http://www.pelchem.com/pdf/H2SiF6-MSDS.pdf

    If you take a look it shows this...
    Where i am they use it in the drinking water.
    I actually filled my loop with it about a month ago.
    (I tore it apart after 7 months of a mixture of distilled/condensed
    water and the gpu block was ALU and the loop was clean.
    I removed the old gpu block and now have all copper but
    with regular tap water ran thru the fliter.)

    Only i run a PuR water filter, gonna rip it apart in about 2 months
    and see how it looks.
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    I suspect that the gunk on the center (and other low flow/pressure locations) of the GPU block is probably growth that has had a chance to absorb the G11 dye and the barb that's showing brass/copper (EK says they're brass but that looks like copper) was the inlet and the plating was eroded away.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baleful View Post
    That's not corrosion. That's what's left over after your "pretty" and useless G11 that you added. G11 is a corrosion inhibitor, you're not mixing metals.... so guess what, you don't need it. Distilled + silver ingots/coils next time will yield better results.




    how come when i say it this way i get chased out with pitchforks and you dont?

    Ima teach you guys once more..

    Discovered by ANDY, AKA MCOFFEY

    PRESTONE SUPER FLUSH <-- usually premixed..

    or

    PRESTONE SUPER CLEAN diluted..




    ~ 4 dollars i do a 30% dilution with water... Active ingrediant is Sodium Citrate and its been neutral so its not acidic..


    If your RAD is new, just let her rip for about 15 min under a faucet with HOT water and then flush with distilled..


    OH major mistake newbies will make is NOT RINCING WITH DISTILLED..

    You use distilled coolant, use super clean stuff, yet you guys forget to rince TAP water out of your rads when you fill with distilled.

    why?
    Last edited by NaeKuh; 12-16-2008 at 11:10 AM.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirheck View Post
    Where i am they use it in the drinking water.
    I actually filled my loop with it about a month ago.
    (I tore it apart after 7 months of a mixture of distilled/condensed
    water and the gpu block was ALU and the loop was clean.
    I removed the old gpu block and now have all copper but
    with regular tap water ran thru the fliter.)

    Only i run a PuR water filter, gonna rip it apart in about 2 months
    and see how it looks.
    I bet you that water filter is going to look and smell like crap if you open her up. Filtering helps cut down the fluoride content but does not get rid of it 100%. The only method that is known to do so is reverse osmosis which I am think of getting a portable one for so I can send the distilled water through and have a really pure source for water loops. Heck who knows....may bottle it and sell it cheap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
    I suspect that the gunk on the center (and other low flow/pressure locations) of the GPU block is probably growth that has had a chance to absorb the G11 dye and the barb that's showing brass/copper (EK says they're brass but that looks like copper) was the inlet and the plating was eroded away.
    Seems like the most plausible explanation to me

    The gunk in on the gfx cooler could possibly be caused by crevice corrosion. You got the conditions, a small space in between the copper base and the acrylic top of the cooler and a funky mix of chemicals.

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