Where can I get some of this stuff?
Where can I get some of this stuff?
Let's find out if it's a product first.......Wait for some solid test results here....
I just cross posted on the liquid section. Lot's of kids seem to have some stuff to say over there....Hope I handled it right....
Bob
Its a wiley bunch over there! I'd say you handled it just fine IMO.Originally Posted by 123bob
Let's find out if it's a product first.......Wait for some solid test results here....
I just cross posted on the liquid section. Lot's of kids seem to have some stuff to say over there....
Bob
yeah they did that to me over there also.I hope you guys have fun with the water guys because they are all so worried about thermal conductive particles.
rock on..all you guys are kicking butt.relttem, I'm proceeding to collect the detailed data we talked about. So far, so good. (It quit peeing nanofluid out from the lower thermocouple wire..
Bob
Again Thank you Bob for the great idea! I was going to make something like you did out of wood but I really didn't like the way I thought it would look. Well with your pics and idea I got the stuff and did this
Would you do me just a small favor...put a wine cork in that T-line, rinse it in distilled first though. You're probably fine, but I'm just paranoid from all those years without my tin foil hat allowing the government to read my mind.
Looks like that should work. Welcome to the external rad club!
A suggestion you may want to use is to mount the rad more toward the middle of the bottom struts. That way, it doesn't want to tend to tip forward. If you look at my pic again, you'll see it is what is known as "cantilevered". It's pretty stable this way. From your pic, what I'm suggesting is to remount it about 6-10 holes to the left, so some of the bottom strut sticks out the left side. You wouldn't have to change any strut lengths or remount the rad. Just move the whole works to the right on the bottom struts.
What probably can't be seen in my pic is the cheapo stick-on rubber feet on the bottom. That way, it stays put on my lower comp desk shelf and doesn't scratch it.
You gotta love the "post-modern industrial" look this gives the machine...
(The cork may not be a bad idea also......now where's my tin foil hat. I had it here somewhere....dang aliens probably stole it again....
There are some practical advantages to this approach. The first is that it gets the heat out of the case. A second advantage is that it seems to be easier to completely drain the loop. I find I just put my machine on the bench, then hold the rad assembly over the edge of the bench so it's lower than the machine. Then open her up and drain away. No need to do much lifting and twisting of the entire machine to get the last bit out. I only have to rock the machine over to the side a little to get the water out from between my CPU and NB blocks.
Regards,
Bob
EDIT: back OT, I just finished a loaded 8 hour run at 3.45g on this old B3 quad, with the nanofluid. I have to check my records, but I think this might be a new high for this machine....Still testing points.
Is this compared to when it had water in it from a previous time? I think you told me you were still going to do a water test, but I can't remember.
Last edited by relttem; 10-24-2008 at 09:15 AM.
LOL don't worry I am going to pick up a fill port and mount it to make my life easier.Would you do me just a small favor...put a wine cork in that T-line, rinse it in distilled first though. You're probably fine, but I'm just paranoid from all those years without my tin foil hat allowing the government to read my mind.
Yeah bob I seen yours was in the middle and I was going to do it that way but then I decide I wanted to put a board in for the pump to sit on. be leave it or not, This really is stable. I also plan on making another one for the barn and it will have to be in the middle as to be sure not to tip.Looks like that should work. Welcome to the external rad club!
A suggestion you may want to use is to mount the rad more toward the middle of the bottom struts. That way, it doesn't want to tend to tip forward. If you look at my pic again, you'll see it is what is known as "cantilevered". It's pretty stable this way. From your pic, what I'm suggesting is to remount it about 6-10 holes to the left, so some of the bottom strut sticks out the left side. You wouldn't have to change any strut lengths or remount the rad. Just move the whole works to the right on the bottom struts.
What probably can't be seen in my pic is the cheapo stick-on rubber feet on the bottom. That way, it stays put on my lower comp desk shelf and doesn't scratch it.
You gotta love the "post-modern industrial" look this gives the machine...
(The cork may not be a bad idea also......now where's my tin foil hat. I had it here somewhere....dang aliens probably stole it again....
There are some practical advantages to this approach. The first is that it gets the heat out of the case. A second advantage is that it seems to be easier to completely drain the loop. I find I just put my machine on the bench, then hold the rad assembly over the edge of the bench so it's lower than the machine. Then open her up and drain away. No need to do much lifting and twisting of the entire machine to get the last bit out. I only have to rock the machine over to the side a little to get the water out from between my CPU and NB blocks.
Regards,
Bob
EDIT: back OT, I just finished a loaded 8 hour run at 3.45g on this old B3 quad, with the nanofluid. I have to check my records, but I think this might be a new high for this machine....Still testing points.
Oh and yeah I know what cantilevered isjust go look at a teater todder (sp)
Yeah, this has always been on water....I'm at 3.55g loaded now....Is this compared to when it had water in it from a previous time? I think you told me you were still going to do a water test, but I can't remember.
here is a couple pics for you relttem. the bottle on the right you sent me and the one on the left is what came out of my test loop that I ended up springing a leak in after I had it all drained and was feeling it back up.
you can tell how much steamed distilled water I added to the fluid.
you have plenty left...what I would do it dump both into one container and use that. right now it looks about a 20% mix of H2O..if you mix them that will drop to about a 10%.
Hopefully, 123Bob and Skinnee might chime in with some more news.
I will soon. I'm halfway through testing. I'm about to fill, flush, and drain and start the pure distilled tests. It might be thursday night until I finish and post up. Got a business trip this week.
likely story..next, "the dog ate it"..
ok I will mix it together and work in it here soon.
I moved to 3.6 in order to get rock stable. Had occasional reset and/or lockups at the 3.65 and 3.7 point. I let it 3.6 run for about ten hours without issue, so I'm calling that my max stable. (All points loaded with BOINC)likely story..next, "the dog ate it"..
We'll see if water can achieve this same stability over the next round of tests. My notes from when I tried this before says it should quit around 3.4, but who knows. I suppose I'll go right for 3.6 and can let you know tomorrow if it can do it.
We are thinking about sending out one more sample for testing, but we want someone to run it thru an off-the-shelf WC system cooling a quad. If anyone on here has something like that send me a PM and let me know about your set-up. A few things need to be monitored (temps etc). I go thru them in the order received - if I receive any...
thanks.
OK, my results are in. I'm finally getting around to post them up. The purpose of this test was to determine if a higher max loaded stable Boinc clock could be acheived on the nanofluid vs plain distilled water.
In a nutshell, I was able to achieve the same max stable BOINC loaded clock on pure distilled water, as the nanofluid. The temps may be of some interest though so I'll post up the details.
Rig Details;
It is a QX6700, stepping B3, running at 3.15 gig. It is on an eVGA 680i mobo with an 8800GTX vid card. Testing took place on my garage bench.
Loop detail: Loop is; Fuzion V1 block > DD 680i NB block > Swiftech MCW60 block on 8800GTX > Swiftech triple Rad > Swiftech Res > DDC with Petra top Pump > to Fuzion.
Antec 900 case, radiator/pump/res rigged up on a stand external to the machine. (Better to get the heat out of the case in my view. Also the place this goes wouldn't allow a full tower anyway.)
Test setup;
Picture first. This was with the pure distilled water in the rig and is the setup used throughout the entire test suite.
This shows the overall instrumentation. The fluke handheld on the left side of the bench is being used to measure the ambient into the middle fan of the rad. It is a K type thermocouple. The omega meter next to it is measuring the inlet and outlet sides of the rad. This has matched T type thermocouples inserted in the water.
The little cheapo thermometer on the bench is being used to provide another ambient point, although I don't think this is a very useful point. It can vary widely from the fluke depending on the actual bench top temp.
Note where the res is. The "T2" probe is stuck in here, measuring the outlet of the rad.
The "T1" probe is stuck in the inlet side of the rad down below and is shoved up the drain hose, all the way into the flow to the rad.
Here is the placement of the tcouple in the res.
The next pic shows the placement of the "T1" tcouple in the lower rad hose. This is the inlet side to the rad.
Here is the raw data.....
The bottom line for me is that I can achieve the same clock on water. I let it run for three full days, while I was out on the road, to verify this. It should be noted that this is only one machine, with it's share of peculiarities.
I don't know if better results could be obtained for other cases, but I only have the masscooler for WC equipment and cannot try any other single rig.
I did recover almost all of the nanofluid, except for about an ounce that was pumped up the tcouple wires, as I posted earlier. The nanofluid is now tinted a distinct blue from picking up the dye in my prior loop. I ran the blue dye for almost a year, so I'm not surprised by this.
Before I went from the nanofluid testing to distilled water, I flushed the loop five times with water to insure I got all the nanofluid out. I did this to make sure my results were meaningful.
Of interest to me is the temp difference, TI-T2 in the data. At the 3.6 gig point, the nanofluid held a smaller difference, over the water. I have no idea if this is significant.
The main rig is now back where it needs to be, doing main rig type of stuff.
Regards,
Bob
some more results in the Liquid Cooling:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/...d.php?t=209373
looking good relttem! I am very sorry I have not had time to get it in my B3 loop.I have been so busy getting back to work and to add to that I started an online school. I will get going on this really soon!!!!
Very interesting. Haven't seen such a product until this thread.
MainPC():
Q6600 + 8GB RAM + 160GB SSD + 1.5TB HDD + Visiontek HD4850 + Gigabyte P965-DS3 rev3.3
HTPC():
E4200 + 4GB RAM + 160GB SSD + Samsung F1 2x1TB RAID-0 + Asus EAH 3450 + Asus P5E-VM HDMI + KWorld ATSC-110 HDTV
Laptop():
CR-48
no problem littleowl. Me and my friend were very impressed with your, 123Bob, Skinnee and HESmelaugh's testing. Soon will be the second iteration.
no one has Luie!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks