HUH! what Aluminum in a W/C part not in the description !
OOHH ~ ! ! another XS member Koolance ITUS .............. Not agin this week how many has that been now ? =(Koolance gets outed) ! IT A NEW WORLDS RECORD ! Koolance for Prez !
HUH! what Aluminum in a W/C part not in the description !
OOHH ~ ! ! another XS member Koolance ITUS .............. Not agin this week how many has that been now ? =(Koolance gets outed) ! IT A NEW WORLDS RECORD ! Koolance for Prez !
Never said it wasn't aluminum, I just didn't think it was anodized.
I know Hank just does a copy/paste of the Manu's web pages so maybe they were visually deceiving me the whole time? Here I thought that they were plated because that exposed top part is plated and that is what I was going by, I merely thought something got screwed up in the translation, I should have known better.
Seeing your in the States, you can try Home Depot, Lowes, or any other local retailer that might sell replacement glass/acrylic. Mcmaster also has a large selection if you want to try that route. As for machining, you might even be able to do it yourself with just a scroll saw or band saw and a drill.
Circles SucQ!
If your annoyed by sigs telling you to put things in your sig, then put this in your sig
Bribery won't work on me...just say NO to AT!!!
Tap plastics dot com they will cut & deliver stock anywhere in the US even have vids on their site showing how to cut , drill ,bend, glue , layout , even laser cutting of odd shapes , they have a store front just 7 miles to the south of me Nice guys willing to help , they are gonna do the windows on my Cube Case Mod for my FastSlappy rig
Hmm those picts look fishy. The alu+copper block doesn't look bad at all, there is no corrosion, only some stains maybe from fungus or something. The shinny block looks fake... pure copper never stays shiny after a few years, it oxidizes. The only way that it can stay shinny is if it's plated in gold which it's not...
Both blocks were cleaned. That's after cleaning. The one on the left is bad because it has Al transfer into the Cu. How deep? I can't tell how deep as the pic isn't close enough, but it's bad. Every one of those spots is where Al has fused into the Cu, and the entire surface has migration also.
The other one is as shiny as new because it was cleaned and is the way it should look. The one on the left will never look like that again. It's permanently ruined.
Guys what we need is a spreadsheet to keep track of what we have found to contain Al. This is getting out of hand.
I'm alsmost embarrassed to post this, but maybe we need to keep track of ferrous metals also.
I cannot believe I just used the words ferrous metals in this forum.
Is it really that bad with the Apogee GTXI've got a GTX but I haven't opened it since 3 months. But you would think that when you've got the GTX for a long time it could be starting to leak when it's disintegrates like that.
"Amicus Plato — amicus Aristoteles — magis amica veritas"
It is a miracle that water was not shooting out around the seal of that block. The step has been eaten completely through in multiple places. This is a serious problem with watercooling. You've got to be very careful something doesn't have Al in there, and recently we've had incidents where what was supposed to be brass was Al and STEEL!Friggen steel man. On my parts I guess I'm gonna have to scrape the plating off (if it has any) and inspect every fitting, and piece of hardware to make sure it doesn't have any ferrous metals or Al snuck in there.
Delrin, Copper, and brass for me. No brittle plastics and no GC.
That is seriously nasty.
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