X48 chipset block?

[Deadguy]

It has two differnt sets of mounting holes.There are four on the outer edge and four closer in.Ive got a spot fan mounted in one of the outer holes.

[Justintoxicated]

This is the X48 top right? its funny cause the DD rep told me it Will Not fit with the x48 top.
I was trying to find pictures of the different tops on DD Petras and the like but it appears that the pictures listed for each block are generic and don't show the actual mounting holes for the top.
for example...
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenmpchwa.html
1st and second pic are two different tops.

DD's website is not better. I'm also havnig problems buying a universal Brass top block with the extra acrylic mounting piece for the X48 or 975X or both. I can't seem to get any responses for them and this is the only thing holding me back form completing the entire build. Very frustrating. if they are trying to get me to purchased 2 brass tops by making me wait I'll go with the Swiftech flavor cause thats just wrong!

[Deadguy]

Yeah its the X48.The pic's on the website arnt very good.I dont even think they are a 48.You can barely make out X38 on my pic.They dont make any that say X48.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=46&page=1

You change the lucite to brass.The mount comes with the x48.You dont have to pick it as an option or at least I didnt.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=46&page=1

Not sure about the 975 though.Has the brass option but not sure about the back part

Im still looking for something to do with the mosfet.Have a 680i 2 part mosfet.Would like to find something thats made for it

[bigslappy]

as of yesterday DD listed the Universal for the X48 I ordered a MPC-975X which has that same basic block of the old MPC-X38 & i'm at this moment in my shop adding a brass (same thickness as the plexi ) hold down for both my old X38 & 975X blocks both the 975X & old X38 were ordered with the brass option Soo basicly i'm replacing the plexi hold down that comes with brass option & MFG'ing a brass backing plate with foam insulator for both , with the black screw set from the Vtec V2 pro-mount Soo that I can thread the backing plate to the screws & only have to tighten down the hold down from the top of the MoBo's , making for a very firm & stable block that will NOT bend the PCB ,while also making it an ease to set & remove the block from the MoBo with out having to take the MoBo off the MoBo tray
the rampage formula has 4 holes in the PCB for the X48 but the brass hold can be made for a 2 hole mobo also can be done

[Justintoxicated]

as of yesterday DD listed the Universal for the X48 I ordered a MPC-975X which has that same basic block of the old MPC-X38 & i'm at this moment in my shop adding a brass (same thickness as the plexi ) hold down for both my old X38 & 975X blocks both the 975X & old X38 were ordered with the brass option Soo basicly i'm replacing the plexi hold down that comes with brass option & MFG'ing a brass backing plate with foam insulator for both , with the black screw set from the Vtec V2 pro-mount Soo that I can thread the backing plate to the screws & only have to tighten down the hold down from the top of the MoBo's , making for a very firm & stable block that will NOT bend the PCB ,while also making it an ease to set & remove the block from the MoBo with out having to take the MoBo off the MoBo tray
the rampage formula has 4 holes in the PCB for the X48 but the brass hold can be made for a 2 hole mobo also can be done

Hmm So your changing the acrylic backing plate to a brass one? And replacing the acrylic top mounting piece with a brass one?

Well since I'm unsure of the best route to take what I want to buy is a MCP universal block (gauranteed to fit just not centered on the NB) but I also want to add the acrylic top mounting piece for the X38/48. Cause this appears to fit much better on Deadguys pictures.

But I have to call DD to do this and they won't be open until monday.

[bigslappy]

Hmm So your changing the acrylic backing plate to a brass one? And replacing the acrylic top mounting piece with a brass one?

Well since I'm unsure of the best route to take what I want to buy is a MCP universal block (gauranteed to fit just not centered on the NB) but I also want to add the acrylic top mounting piece for the X38/48. Cause this appears to fit much better on Deadguys pictures.

But I have to call DD to do this and they won't be open until monday.

buy the intel 975X block either all plexi or brass with thin plexi hold down ...
drill yer own holes .. use the mobo holes as a guide on cardboard then transfer that guide to a piece of 1/2" hardwood ..drill all the way thru , to make another guide.. test fit both with mobo holes Just to make sure when yer sure it's gonna fit buy a brand new colbalt drill (for the plexi)the size of the holes in mobo & drill the 975X plexi = useing the 1/2" hardwood as a guide this will keep the drill bit from walking on you (drill slow a little at a time or the plexi will start to melt &/or the drill will walk on you .... clamping two places make sure it's really tight before drilling.. triple check yer sizing's to make sure .. the block is bigger than the chip soo there is margin for error . I did 2 brass hold downs today .. 4 actually only two sized up right ..L O L.. am now sanding them down in higher grit till i get up to 1200 then jewlers rouge for the final polish ... stay tuned i up pix when i'm done .. DD might do this for but i dought they will do a Brass hold down .. but they do offer a brass top for the 975X
http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=46&page=1
select brass under the lucite drop down setting = top style

the MPC block is the same for all X38,X48,975X ,just the tops are different
... MPC universal ( this is the one i don't like as it does not sit square on the chipset ) either plexi or brass........ any questions feel free to PM

[Justintoxicated]

buy the intel 975X block either all plexi or brass with thin plexi hold down ...
drill yer own holes .. use the mobo holes as a guide on cardboard then transfer that guide to a piece of 1/2" hardwood ..drill all the way thru , to make another guide.. test fit both with mobo holes Just to make sure when yer sure it's gonna fit buy a brand new colbalt drill (for the plexi)the size of the holes in mobo & drill the 975X plexi = useing the 1/2" hardwood as a guide this will keep the drill bit from walking on you (drill slow a little at a time or the plexi will start to melt &/or the drill will walk on you .... clamping two places make sure it's really tight before drilling.. triple check yer sizing's to make sure .. the block is bigger than the chip soo there is margin for error . I did 2 brass hold downs today .. 4 actually only two sized up right ..L O L.. am now sanding them down in higher grit till i get up to 1200 then jewlers rouge for the final polish ... stay tuned i up pix when i'm done .. DD might do this for but i dought they will do a Brass hold down .. but they do offer a brass top for the 975X
http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=46&page=1
select brass under the lucite drop down setting = top style

the MPC block is the same for all X38,X48,975X ,just the tops are different
... MPC universal ( this is the one i don't like as it does not sit square on the chipset ) either plexi or brass........ any questions feel free to PM

Unfortunately i dont have a workbench where I live, so any drilling I do means holing the item with one hand and drilling with the other . Now I could get my friend to help (he has a drillpress and usualy does not mind) but that will cost me $150 in gas to get down to San Diego and back so I guess thats out too... I hear what your saying, I'll probably get 3 tops just to make sure at least one fits or is drillable. I can always slap the universal on temporarily, and next time I'm down in my hometown, maybe I can drill some nice holes using his press.

[bigslappy]

Unfortunately i dont have a workbench where I live, so any drilling I do means holing the item with one hand and drilling with the other . Now I could get my friend to help (he has a drillpress and usualy does not mind) but that will cost me $150 in gas to get down to San Diego and back so I guess thats out too... I hear what your saying, I'll probably get 3 tops just to make sure at least one fits or is drillable. I can always slap the universal on temporarily, and next time I'm down in my hometown, maybe I can drill some nice holes using his press.

explain all the above & my post also to DD ask for Jeremy (he da boss) .. he just might do it for u

send him a link to this thread & he'll see that there is a demand for a non-PLEXI hold down

& that the UNI version of MPC we just don't like it!
these X48 chips get hot & that might be a reason for instabilty

& WE want the best block (his/DD=MPC) but that the hold down sucks !

I know they like feedback soo don't think yer reaming their ass but could they at least look at the problem ... Jeremy is a nice guy & will listen ...

[Justintoxicated]

explain all the above & my post also to DD ask for Jeremy (he da boss) .. he just might do it for u

send him a link to this thread & he'll see that there is a demand for a non-PLEXI hold down

& that the UNI version of MPC we just don't like it!
these X48 chips get hot & that might be a reason for instabilty

& WE want the best block (his/DD=MPC) but that the hold down sucks !

I know they like feedback soo don't think yer reaming their ass but could they at least look at the problem ... Jeremy is a nice guy & will listen ...

I sent him a link to this thread earlier this week. I'll touch base with him again tomorrow.

[bigslappy]

I sent him a link to this thread earlier this week. I'll touch base with him again tomorrow.

COOL ...

[Martinm210]

While I made my own plate for the NB, the universal was a perfect fit for the SB. It sounds like the new X48 top is also perfect for the NB, so that's what I would do if I had to do it over again.

Here is mine:

It keeps my NB about 4-5C above ambient (400FSB, 1.34 NB Vcore) which is plenty cool enough and much cooler than my old 680i.

[Justintoxicated]

Marti, couple questions.

1) Does the South Bridge block still allow you to run X-fire?

2) Is it a good idea to cool the southbridge if I'm only using one loop (NB,SB,CPU,VidCard/s?) in the case to cool everything? I have an old aluminum Zalman Northbridge cooler that I have mounted to mine right now, but it will not allow for a second video card.

If its a good idea to Liquid cool both north and southbridges, then I can go ahead and place my order since I will need two blocks anyways.

3) What are the plans for your the rear black heatsink you modified?

Also what did you use to attach the swiftech style sinks? Thermal epoxy? Tempting but I'm not sure I want to void my warranty just yet.

Thanks for everyones help and suggestions.

[bigslappy]

Marti, couple questions.

1) Does the South Bridge block still allow you to run X-fire?

2) Is it a good idea to cool the southbridge if I'm only using one loop (NB,SB,CPU,VidCard/s?) in the case to cool everything? I have an old aluminum Zalman Northbridge cooler that I have mounted to mine right now, but it will not allow for a second video card.

If its a good idea to Liquid cool both north and southbridges, then I can go ahead and place my order since I will need two blocks anyways.

3) What are the plans for your the rear black heatsink you modified?

Also what did you use to attach the swiftech style sinks? Thermal epoxy? Tempting but I'm not sure I want to void my warranty just yet.

Thanks for everyones help and suggestions.

EK S/B block is way low profile

[Deadguy]

Really nice looking board Martin.

[NaeKuh]

Marti, couple questions.

1) Does the South Bridge block still allow you to run X-fire?

2) Is it a good idea to cool the southbridge if I'm only using one loop (NB,SB,CPU,VidCard/s?) in the case to cool everything? I have an old aluminum Zalman Northbridge cooler that I have mounted to mine right now, but it will not allow for a second video card.

If its a good idea to Liquid cool both north and southbridges, then I can go ahead and place my order since I will need two blocks anyways.

3) What are the plans for your the rear black heatsink you modified?

Also what did you use to attach the swiftech style sinks? Thermal epoxy? Tempting but I'm not sure I want to void my warranty just yet.

Thanks for everyones help and suggestions.

I can answer these:

1. No, expecially with longer cards, you'll run into issues. Remember that last slot isnt 16x. Its an agea Physx slot @ 4x. Putting a card there means reducing performance.
Picture to show you what i mean.


2. Use the Enzo with that little fan. Its awesome and enough to keep even 4 raptors on raid in check.

3. Im still trying to talk martin into dropping a 70mm fan like i did. However he said he wanted to watercool it. Kinda pointless since those little microchips infront of the mosfets were ment to take extra heat load from the pwm area.



But hey what would i know right? i only recomended martin that board. I probably have the most knowledge in h2o section regarding this board, and cooling this board.



There are 2 types of mosfet sinks you can buy.

1. is the uber small enzos. They look like gpu bga sinks but only cut in 4's. So there really small. I like to use those intitally. The others are regular enzos bga sinks.
The tiny enzo's im talking about.
http://www.shoppts.com/enmomohekit.html


However becareful where you place them. Sometimes if you put it somewhere it does not like to be, your board will bug out with - - or c 1

dont ask me why c1. you just get it sometimes.

[IanY]

Is there even a PCI-E 4X Aegia card ? Isn't that like... dead tech, not to mention its now Nvidia's tech? What's it doing on an Intel mobo that cannot support Nvidia SLI (outside of the GX2)?

[Justintoxicated]

I can answer these:

1. No, expecially with longer cards, you'll run into issues. Remember that last slot isnt 16x. Its an agea Physx slot @ 4x. Putting a card there means reducing performance.
Picture to show you what i mean.

-Sounds like I'd be best off just using the Zalman heatsink on there which I already have? It's not as nice as that enzo, but i don't want any small loud fans in my build. (or is it silent?). What I mean is if hte waterblock won't fit with a second video card, then I may as well wait until I actualy have a second video card to change it to the Enzo w/ fan. The Zalaman won't allow me to install a second video card either. Now bigslappy mentioned that the EK Universal block is really low profile. Will that waterblock allow me to fit a second video card?

2. Use the Enzo with that little fan. Its awesome and enough to keep even 4 raptors on raid in check.

3. Im still trying to talk martin into dropping a 70mm fan like i did. However he said he wanted to watercool it. Kinda pointless since those little microchips infront of the mosfets were ment to take extra heat load from the pwm area.

Do I really need a 70mm fan? Thats going to be loud... If so how did you attach it?

But hey what would i know right? i only recomended martin that board. I probably have the most knowledge in h2o section regarding this board, and cooling this board.



There are 2 types of mosfet sinks you can buy.

1. is the uber small enzos. They look like gpu bga sinks but only cut in 4's. So there really small. I like to use those intitally. The others are regular enzos bga sinks.
The tiny enzo's im talking about.
http://www.shoppts.com/enmomohekit.html

However becareful where you place them. Sometimes if you put it somewhere it does not like to be, your board will bug out with - - or c 1

dont ask me why c1. you just get it sometimes.

What are you attach them with? If I use thermal epoxy and I get a C 1 error, then I'm kinda screwed.... I have like 2 packs of swiftech heatsinks kicking it. The thermal tape on them does not work at all....

[safan80]

my MCw30 works great on the NB.

[Justintoxicated]

DeadGuy, I just got off the phone with Jeremy at DangerDen. He told me that the x48 with brass top will not fit and that the acrylic hold down only has 4 holes not 8 like in your picture. he does no know where the top you got came from, thinking you must have or someone else must have drilled those extra holes in it.

It sounds like my best bet is to buy the MCP universal with a brass top, although it won't cover the entire IHS The other option is to buy the x48 brass top and drill my own holes in the acrylic mounting piece, which requires a special acrylic drill bit. Since I need to get this show on the road it looks like I'll settle for the universal MPC.

I'm still not sure what to do with the southbridge. I don't really want to watercool it if it is not necessary since it would add restriction to my loop and make the posibilities of adding a second video card impossible. If someone can verify if the Ek block is low profile enough to clear the video card that would be amazing. For now I think my best bet is the Passive zalaman (this is the one I have on hand) http://www.svc.com/zm-nb32k.html. I have to admit that its tempting to just order 2 Universal MPC and forget about Crossfire (I have an Nvidia card right now anyways)...

my MCw30 works great on the NB.

pics? Does it cover the entire heat spreader?

[HaCKs]

DeadGuy, I just got off the phone with Jeremy at DangerDen. He told me that the x48 with brass top will not fit and that the acrylic hold down only has 4 holes not 8 like in your picture. he does no know where the top you got came from, thinking you must have or someone else must have drilled those extra holes in it.

It sounds like my best bet is to buy the MCP universal with a brass top, although it won't cover the entire IHS The other option is to buy the x48 brass top and drill my own holes in the acrylic mounting piece, which requires a special acrylic drill bit. Since I need to get this show on the road it looks like I'll settle for the universal MPC.

I'm still not sure what to do with the southbridge. I don't really want to watercool it if it is not necessary since it would add restriction to my loop and make the posibilities of adding a second video card impossible. If someone can verify if the Ek block is low profile enough to clear the video card that would be amazing. For now I think my best bet is the Passive zalaman (this is the one I have on hand) http://www.svc.com/zm-nb32k.html. I have to admit that its tempting to just order 2 Universal MPC and forget about Crossfire (I have an Nvidia card right now anyways)...


pics? Does it cover the entire heat spreader?

Do you have the LT or the UT?

If you have the LT, just leave the stock heatsync on the SB! I just got my DFI X48 LT-T2R and on air cooling for everything temps are barely warm to the touch. If you bought the UT and had to remove the whole heat pipe assembly get the enzo low profile block everyone keeps talking about, it should clear your cards just fine. With the current state of cheap video cards, you would be shooting yourself in the foot by blocking those PCI-E x16 ports!

[Mekrel]

If the mounting holes are the same as the P35 DFI board, do what I did.

DangerDen MCP chipset block (the multi fit one) and turn the top on it upside down, you can then mount it so the barbs are parallel to the PCI/PCI-E slots.

[Justintoxicated]

Do you have the LT or the UT?

If you have the LT, just leave the stock heatsync on the SB! I just got my DFI X48 LT-T2R and on air cooling for everything temps are barely warm to the touch. If you bought the UT and had to remove the whole heat pipe assembly get the enzo low profile block everyone keeps talking about, it should clear your cards just fine. With the current state of cheap video cards, you would be shooting yourself in the foot by blocking those PCI-E x16 ports!

I have the LT, I replaced the stock cooler with the zalman, but thats jsut because I have one card for now, if I get a second card I can put the stock one back on or get the EK block or Enzo w/fan.

Now I gotta figure out if I want compression fittings, I didn't realize DD actualy sold these for 7/16ths tubing

[HaCKs]

Yeah from other peoples advice here, and now my own experience water cooling the SB is NOT necessary in the least. My SB is running raided raptors and is warm to the touch with the stock passive heatsync...

[Martinm210]

Yeah, Naeku got your questions.

I wouldn't bother with the southbridge if you plan to run crossfire. I have an 8800GTX single card I'm running so that slot is useless to me anyway. I already had the chipset block on hand and put it to use simply because I could, not out of need. I don't think you need to run water on the NB either, the stock TR heatsink with a fan would work just fine. I think watercooling this board is not necessary.

The PWM area, I machined out a slot and installed a TR HR-05 to supliment the stock heatsink. It actually works pretty well. I only did this because as I start my CPU waterblock testing, I like having the room to work in there and having a small fan in the way would just irritate me. In this setup, it's all external and clean in the CPU area for easy installation and tightening of the waterblock. Adding a fan like Naeku did would work just as well, I just didn't want that internally so I used the HR-05 and added some memory sized heatsinks to the CPL chips in front of that(Not shown in the pictures).

I added a bunch of the copper mosfet and GPU sized heatsinks anywhere I could register over 40C. There are actually a number of areas on the board including the PWM CPL chips that run hotter than other areas. Most were usually under 50 or 60C, but now with the little copper heatsinks, I've got the entire board below 40 which I like regardless of weather it makes a difference. I just used the supplied sticky thermalpads to install them and used artic cleaner to prep for them. No problems with this so far.

I can't say enough good about the board, it's amazing how solid the CPU Vcore remains between idle and load. My easiest overclock so far...tough board, you could run it stock right out of the box without any problems I'm sure...very high quality components and well built.

[Deadguy]

[QUOTE=Justintoxicated;3141607]DeadGuy, I just got off the phone with Jeremy at DangerDen. He told me that the x48 with brass top will not fit and that the acrylic hold down only has 4 holes not 8 like in your picture. he does no know where the top you got came from, thinking you must have or someone else must have drilled those extra holes in it.

Sorry about that.It's just like they sent it to me.Havent done a thing to it.I only modded the south bridge one.Guess I cant say any more I never have any good luck.