System
ASUS Z170-Pro
Skylake i7-6700K @ 4600 Mhz
MSI GTX 1070 Armor OC
32 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V
Samsung 850 EVO (2)
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2
Corsair Hydro H90
NZXT S340
I'm HDR-ing (is that a word? lol) in CS3 too now. Did some experiments last days and CS3 turns indeed out to be better then Photomatix!
Here are some pics from me from this evening. How are they?
http://forum.i3d.net/attachment.php?...3&d=1214691439
http://forum.i3d.net/attachment.php?...4&d=1214691439
The second is a bit more extremer then the first one which is more realistic looking.
Testing out some more 'realistic' settings in Photomatix:
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You will find CS3's HDR merges really lacking something...like the life was sapped from them...just boost the saturation back up and bingo problem solved. I'm not sure why they come out that way.
System
ASUS Z170-Pro
Skylake i7-6700K @ 4600 Mhz
MSI GTX 1070 Armor OC
32 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V
Samsung 850 EVO (2)
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2
Corsair Hydro H90
NZXT S340
Another from yesterday (Down at OSU to do college prep):
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[ 3770K @ 4.2 : H100i : ASRock Z77E-ITX : GTX560 Ti : 16GB DDR3 1800 : +4TB : Bitfenix Prodigy : 2x Dell S2340M : Filco Majestouch-2 [Cherry Brown] : BX8a Deluxe]
That's HDR? If so, it's really subtle, just like it's supposed to be. nice job!
First hdr with my new car
Will take many more pics soon as my d40 arrives this week
Took three pictures with my point and shoot to get this
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HAHA, looks like a friggin' cartoon!
Main: oo7
i7 920 D0 (4Ghz) || Asrock X58 Extreme
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3x Dell E2311H 23" LED LCD (Eyefinity)
[Flickr] - Canon 30D || 50mm f/1.8 PRIME || 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
First atempt on HDR pictures:
http://imageupload.com/out.php/i1339...edHD222R00.jpg
Last edited by whatever; 06-30-2008 at 11:45 PM.
lightroom is geared much more towards an efficient workflow while photoshop allows you to still pixel edit and manipulate your photos to no end. they're different programs, but to strike a good balance, you'd want both supplementing one another.
done in PS cs3.. which feels infinitely more cumbersome than photomatrix. i have a feeling, that with lightroom 2 having native dodging and burning, photostitching and HDRs seems like they'd make a lot of sense.
:banana::banana::banana::banana:station2.2
2600K | Prolimatech Megahalems | Asus P8Z68 V PRO | EVGA GTX 260 216 | Kingwin Lazer Platinum 550w
128GB+256GB C300 | JBOD 6TB | Asus Xonar Essence STX | Antec P180B | 7x Noctua NF-P12
Soulburner, I`m in Romania. :sucks:![]()
Hey loving all these pics!
I'm in the market for a camera (live in New Zealand) and this is around my price range $500 NZD
http://www.einfo.co.nz/shop/product_...oducts_id=7979 $360 USD
What do you guys think? Doesn't shoot raw.. No idea what camera's do support that feature and or how much they are. But how would that go? as far as making some HRD photo's?
Thanks!
HDR can be done with JPEGs, you just get less flexibility to fix the image after its taken.
System
ASUS Z170-Pro
Skylake i7-6700K @ 4600 Mhz
MSI GTX 1070 Armor OC
32 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V
Samsung 850 EVO (2)
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2
Corsair Hydro H90
NZXT S340
Thanks, I've read up on thatWhat do you think of that camera? ie is there better I can get for the money. Or is a RAW camera in the same price range with the same features?
Is 10x optical zoom really needed? or is 5x ok.
I'm looking at either of these 2
Panasonic DMC-TZ5
This has 10x zoom and 28mm lense but doesn't shoot raw image format which is best when doing HDRI
or
DMC-FX500
This has 5x zoom and 26mm lense and does shoot raw image format which is best when doing HDRI
I've read both manuals and specs, from what I gather they can both burst 3photos at max quality with different exposue's which is what I need for HDRI
RAW image format gives you more room to adjust the image after the shot's taken where as normal JPEG doesn't.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Last edited by foR; 07-04-2008 at 07:43 PM.
Sorry for the wall of text, but I found this interesting as in this thread people say RAW is where it is at but this kind of differs from that:
Source
How do I shoot an HDR image?
Most digital cameras are only able to capture a limited dynamic range (the exposure setting determines which part of the total dynamic range will be captured). This is why HDR images are commonly created from photos of the same scene taken under different exposure levels.
Here are some recommendations for taking different exposures for the HDR image:
1. Mount your camera on a tripod
2. Set your camera to manual exposure mode. Select an appropriate aperture for your scene (e.g. f/8 or less if you need more depth of field) and the lowest ISO setting.
3. Measure the light in the brightest part of your scene (spot metering or in Av mode to point only the highlights) and note the exposure time. Do the same for the darkest shadows of your scene.
4. Determine the number and value of exposures necessary. For this, take as a basis the exposure time measured for the highlights. Multiply this number by 4 to find the next exposure with a stop spacing of 2 EV. Multiply by 4 successively for the next exposures till you pass the exposure measured for the shadows. (Note: For most daylight outdoor scenes excluding the sun, 3 exposures spaced by two EVs are often sufficient to properly cover the dynamic range).
5. You can make use of Auto-Exposure Bracketing if your camera supports it and if it allows a sufficient exposure increment and number of auto-bracketed frames to cover the dynamic range determined in step 4. Otherwise, you will have to vary the exposure times manually.
Can't I just create the exposures from one RAW file?
Not really. Your RAW file contains data captured by the sensors for only one exposure. The total dynamic range you can reconstruct from one photo converted with different exposure settings can never be more than the dynamic range captured by your camera, and this is rather limited (see above).
When you are using only one exposure to capture the scene, your RAW file is already your HDR image.
Converting the RAW file to images with different exposure levels is a bit like slicing the dynamic range of the RAW into several parts. Combining the parts back into an HDR image will at best re-produce the dynamic range of the initial RAW file.
That said, if you are using a good RAW converter to derive fake exposures from a single RAW file, you will probably notice that the HDR image created from the fake exposures shows more dynamic range than the pseudo-HDR image obtained by converting the single RAW file directly. This is because your RAW converter includes a good noise reduction function, and this has an important effect on the dynamic range. You RAW converter may also include the ability to continue to retrieve highlights details when one or two of the color channels have already reached saturation.
So, a good RAW converter includes functions designed to optimize the dynamic range retrieved from the raw sensor data, but this does not change the fact that the dynamic range of a RAW file is limited to one exposure only. Unless the dynamic range of your scene is low, you will need to take more than one exposure to create an HDR image of the scene.
Last edited by foR; 07-04-2008 at 07:54 PM.
Out at a friend's grandma's house in the countryside. All 3 exposures at +/- 2.0.
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[ 3770K @ 4.2 : H100i : ASRock Z77E-ITX : GTX560 Ti : 16GB DDR3 1800 : +4TB : Bitfenix Prodigy : 2x Dell S2340M : Filco Majestouch-2 [Cherry Brown] : BX8a Deluxe]
Love the second one, Metric. Did you use Photomatix?
Last edited by Metric; 07-05-2008 at 12:31 PM.
[ 3770K @ 4.2 : H100i : ASRock Z77E-ITX : GTX560 Ti : 16GB DDR3 1800 : +4TB : Bitfenix Prodigy : 2x Dell S2340M : Filco Majestouch-2 [Cherry Brown] : BX8a Deluxe]
Main: oo7
i7 920 D0 (4Ghz) || Asrock X58 Extreme
Corsair 8GB DDR3 1600 || HIS HD 6850 1GB
Corsair HX850 PSU || 2x Seagate 500GB 7200.12
3x Dell E2311H 23" LED LCD (Eyefinity)
[Flickr] - Canon 30D || 50mm f/1.8 PRIME || 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
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