Water Cooled Case Gallery

[xpatar]

"Watercooling Myths Exposed"

And if you are interested, there's more here:


"Common Cooling Misconceptions"

So no need or reason to change everything.

The full guide can be found here, of course you can find hundrends of them:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=119699
"11) How should the water flow in my loop? Pump -> Radiator -> Chipset 1 & 2 -> GPU 1 & 2 -> Reservoir? or _________________?????

posted by Atomicpineapple: Loop order makes no difference as long as your resevoir/tline is before your pump. Overall water temp difference around a well balanced WC loop is less than 1 Deg C.

posted by MaxxxRacer: Loop order is something that almost always confused people that are new to watercooling. So here is a general rule to follow. Pump>Radiator>CPU>GPU(if implemented)>NB(if implemented)>Reservoir. This is the most efficient way of setting up your system. But there are a few exceptions to this general rule. First, is that it is generally better to have the shortest amount of tubing with the least amount of bends in it. So that means if it takes a lot of tubing or some 90 degree bends to get the loop order that I just suggested, don’t do it. Figure out a way to have it where these bends and extra tubing are not need. But there is one rule of order that you must never break. That is to have the reservoir right before the pump. If you do not follow this rule it will guaranteed hurt the performance of the system and cause the pump to be starved for water. One more thing to keep in mind is to NEVER use 90 degree bent barbs in your system. They are absolute and total flow killers. Using them will most surely hurt your performance."

[l33t p1mp]

Heres my pics with the tline and better wire management.
Notice the little temp probe on the bottom right under the hard drive. 29.1 celcius for my ram running 1000 mhz @ 4-4-4-12. Not too shabby.
Also, you cant really see it but I have a cathode up there. Its still very bright outside so you cant really see the blue but at night it looks wonderful.
Btw yes my case has a projector on it that projects the name of it onto my desk. Yes you can change it to whatever you want. No I havent done it yet because I dont have a lazer printer nor projector paper.





Fan controller for the cathode and the radiator fans.

[coolfris]

@xpatar: The myth is that it has no singnificant impact on the temps. So when recommending people to change their loop order it can be a reassuring also to tell it has no big impact on the temps. Few people will change their set-up for 0.19c or less.

[xpatar]

@xpatar: The myth is that it has no singnificant impact on the temps. So when recommending people to change their loop order it can be a reassuring also to tell it has no big impact on the temps. Few people will change their set-up for 0.19c or less.

We are looking for the most efficient setup of the loop even if the temps are less
than 1 Celcious degrees.
"So here is a general rule to follow. Pump>Radiator>CPU>GPU(if implemented)>NB(if implemented)>Reservoir. This is the most efficient way of setting up your system."

[l33t p1mp]

We are looking for the most efficient setup of the loop even if the temps are less
than 1 Celcious degrees.
"So here is a general rule to follow. Pump>Radiator>CPU>GPU(if implemented)>NB(if implemented)>Reservoir. This is the most efficient way of setting up your system."

Mine is slightly off but w/e, I am happy with my temps and my cpu speeds. Not many people hit 4 ghz on a quad.

[Vatos_locos]

Well I can't tell about the D-tek Fusion cause I haven't tested it.
The swiftech Apogee GT is simple awesome, it has the same baseplate with Apogee GTX and with my rig running four instances of prime95 at the same time for 10 hours the temps never went over 50 Celcius degrees.
Remember, I got a C2DQ 6600 G0 revision running @ 3.2GHz, 1.3v.
Of course you may have better temps with your rig with better cooling as each rig is unique.
Anyway I would recommend it to you as an excellent cpu waterblock.

Note: I had to remove the passive cooler of my asus maximus formula cause it wouldn't fit at first. It's an apogee GT waterblock so go for an Agogee GTX,
same base plate, better compatibility with new motherboards, excellent performance.

The Apogee GT with bowed base will give you equal or perhaps slightly better than the D-Tek FuZion Rev. 1, however the Apogee is a more restrictive block. The D-Tek FuZion Rev. 2 will give you better temps than the Apogee GT at a lower impedance.

I made a test, where the D-Tek was better than the Apogee GTX (should be better than GT) bowed and unbowed the same. Unbowed the GTX was very restrictive (~259l/h), bowed it was better. (385l/h). D-Tek had 439l/h without Nozzles and ~350l/h with Quad-split-nozzle. (Loops same always with CPU-Block, a DDC+, Rad, Flowmeter and Tempsensors) Delta was ~29°C with Nozzle in FuZion and 33°C without Nozzle. Apogee GTX had ~35°C bowed and ~38,5°C unbowed.

But that all depends on the quality of the block you get. And I tell you: buy 10 Apogees and you will get 8 different results ^^


@Sargatanas: Greetz from NRW

thanks guys the prize here in Greece is the same for the two blocks 55€ so i decided to go for the d-tec the loop will be something like this

tank > ehaim 1250 > triple rad > D-tec > maybe dual rad > Enzotech SNBW-SLI > Swifteck MCW30 > tank

i don't know if the dual rad would do anything better in temps so i still don't know if i'am going to use it :/

[l33t p1mp]

You should add a second pump. Would be better than a second rad.

[Vatos_locos]

the pump is looking good 1200L/h :/ i don't want to add a second pump because i am bored of getting in so much trouble
if i add a second pump then it is better to make a spare loop for the chipset & vga with the dual rad :/


so i might just put a triple ran and nothing more :p
anything to suggest ?

[l33t p1mp]

Uuh...not really im pretty nooby at this too lol.

[[XC] NetburstXE]

Great sticker! Ubuntu FTW!

[aspire.comptech]

Heres my pics with the tline and better wire management.
Notice the little temp probe on the bottom right under the hard drive. 29.1 celcius for my ram running 1000 mhz @ 4-4-4-12. Not too shabby.
Also, you cant really see it but I have a cathode up there. Its still very bright outside so you cant really see the blue but at night it looks wonderful.
Btw yes my case has a projector on it that projects the name of it onto my desk. Yes you can change it to whatever you want. No I havent done it yet because I dont have a lazer printer nor projector paper.

Get some 90 Degree barb fittings for your radiator and get rid of those ridiculous loops of tubing sticking off the back.

[ThatGuy16]

Get some 90 Degree barb fittings for your radiator and get rid of those ridiculous loops of tubing sticking off the back.

I agree, get a couple like MayDay is using, those are not as constrictive as the regular 90 degree ones you buy online.

[Dark Prodigy]

All chat and no pics. Take that crap to PM's. This is a GALLERY. If you don't know what that means look it the heck up. Idiots continue to ruin this thread.

[ThatGuy16]

All chat and no pics. Take that crap to PM's. This is a GALLERY. If you don't know what that means look it the heck up. Idiots continue to ruin this thread.

I think we can share our recommendations

[Gen]

All chat and no pics. Take that crap to PM's. This is a GALLERY. If you don't know what that means look it the heck up. Idiots continue to ruin this thread.

If you don't like it then don't read them. It angers you so much that you have to scroll past posts? LOL

What do you think you're gonna change? The thread has been this way for over 4 years and a hundred + pages..



On another note, I don't usually like bling lights but those cool blue you have 'leet pimp' look nice.

[ANP !!!]

Major props for this, i couldnt make that tubing run when i had my MICrores in that position, its very tight, well done

Thanks
I was unable to find a better place for that.

You can insert the tubing first then mount the Res, that's what I did and it was a piece of cake.

i just realized your loop order, i think it could be a lot better, flow wise

Yea, earlier I got the pump wrong, I changed the loops order to this now
Res > pump > Rad > CPU > NB > GPU > Res
the flow is really good, just as fast as my previous CPU + GPU loop, since I gave much attention to any possible kinks.

Very Good Case.

Thanks you

The case is not completed yet, I have mounted green LEDs behind the fuzion mounting plate to give it a back-lit effect, still working on it.

[xpatar]

the pump is looking good 1200L/h :/ i don't want to add a second pump because i am bored of getting in so much trouble
if i add a second pump then it is better to make a spare loop for the chipset & vga with the dual rad :/


so i might just put a triple ran and nothing more :p
anything to suggest ?

This was written by Cathar, liquid cooling expert and manufacturer of the G4 and G5 waterblocks (and designer of Swiftech's new 'Storm G4' flagship CPU block
"HOW MUCH PUMP IS ENOUGH? HOW MUCH PUMP IS TOO MUCH?

Broad guidelines on pump selection:

* DO NOT select a pump that draws more than 50W of power. Performance will not improve further and the pump will be drawing more power than is needed, effectively being a waste of electricity which just shows up on your power bill. Pumps drawing much more power than 50W will actually make your CPU hotter.
* In general avoid pumps that put more than 16W of heat into the water per 120x120mm of radiator area (or equivalent). Match your pump to your available radiator capacity so that pump heat is not a major player in your water's temperature. In general, try to keep pump heat to radiator capacity down below 12W of pump heat per 120x120mm of radiator area.
* Try to choose a separated armature pump (spinning magnet around the impeller) as opposed to a canned motor (eg. Laing style), or electro-magnet motor (eg. Eheim style) as the separated armature design minimises motor heat transferral into the water
* Avoid pumps with less than 1.0mH2O of pumping pressure at 3.5LPM flow rate (or 3' of pressure @ 1gpm), unless you have a very specific need for some particular pump (space requirements). Such pumps are too weak and performance will suffer noticably.
* Try to avoid "high flow" pumps (pumps with >20LPM peak flow rates). Such pumps tend to have the wrong impeller design and flow characteristics for water-cooling use.
* Choose pumps with at least 6LPM of peak flow rate
* Choose pumps with at least 1.5mH2O (5') of peak pressure
* When trying to decide between two pumps where one pump has more peak flow than another pump, then so long as the rated peak flow rates are at or above 10LPM, always choose the pump that has the higher peak pressure rating, over the pump that has the higher peak flow rating. If the peak pressures are about equal, but both offer peak flow rates above 10LPM, choose the pump with the lower peak flow rate as it will add less heat to your system."

The full link can be found here:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10825

[LogAn'sRun]

less talk more pics please

[ls206]

hear hear



already posted, but thought I couldn't agree with Logan and not post a pic

[MrWizard6600]

hard to find a computer that looks good dispite having the standard orange PCB.

nice setup.

[shaquilleMoreno]

Here is my case. My proud
Later this week I can post more pics if wanted.





With red light


With UV light




And a few pics from my CPU-waterblock

[Arni]

Here is my case. My proud
Later this week I can post more pics if wanted.





With red light


With UV light




And a few pics from my CPU-waterblock

one of the best rig's in cosmos

[MayDay84]

Here is my case. My proud
Later this week I can post more pics if wanted.

With UV light

Cool..Your coolant looks like some kind of strawberry milk in the UV, very delicious I'm jealous to you who have so much space behind the right side of the case to hide the cables.. Although my case (3R System R900) is very spacious, the behind side is too narrow to put large cable bunches there..

[ls206]

hard to find a computer that looks good dispite having the standard orange PCB.

nice setup.

cheers man
I been looking for a black pcb but I quite like the orange now

[Helfarch]

Still need to built the rad box to go on top