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Thread: Crawl Space Cooler Build

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by smee View Post
    Hey bigslappy, this is lookin great!!
    Can't wait for the finished product!

    Oh, and I'm sure that when your done building this, that "skinnee" here will install it for you

    JK!!!!
    I could easily fit in a crawl space...

    ...but I don't know jack about FC fans and blower motors.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    u win.

    even CD's 3 PA120.3 cant top this.
    What if...

    they combined their work...

    CD's 3 PA's...

    plus this huge ass blower...
    My new Intel build, logged here.

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  3. #28
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    that avatar makes me wanna get all slappy and....

    /wife intervention... again...

    wow... that is eXtreme dude...

    What if...

    they combined their work...

    CD's 3 PA's...

    plus this huge ass blower...
    ha ha ha... that would make someone take the challenge and go out and build a friggin windtunnel or something...
    "The ultimate measure of a man is not where he stands in moments of comfort and convenience, but where he stands in times challenge and controversy."
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  4. #29
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    Is there any chance you'll warp the Rads fins with this blower? I mean the cavity that your blower will make might collapse your rad fins. Anyhow, this is definitely Xtreme. Good luck.
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bad213Boy View Post
    Is there any chance you'll warp the Rads fins with this blower? I mean the cavity that your blower will make might collapse your rad fins. Anyhow, this is definitely Xtreme. Good luck.
    I'll find out this weekend when seal up & do another test

  6. #31
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    Are you planning to leave it outside the house and run longer tubing? Maybe you could tune the fan speed with a reosthat and keep the noise lower enough for keeping it in your room.
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  7. #32
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    He wouldn't be able to take advantage of the 50 degree temps in the crawlspace then.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by leo_bsb View Post
    Are you planning to leave it outside the house and run longer tubing? Maybe you could tune the fan speed with a reosthat and keep the noise lower enough for keeping it in your room.

    the rad & blower will be under the floor where the air temp is 50f my room gets into the 90's F in the summer
    noise is not the issue
    Lower air temp is what i need / there by water temps will be lower into the PC

  9. #34
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    Are you going to do something about dust? I'd think that being under the house, you'd have to clean that sucker out every week at least..

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Daddy View Post
    Are you going to do something about dust? I'd think that being under the house, you'd have to clean that sucker out every week at least..

    the floor of the crawl space has a vapor barrior (plastic sheeting that keeps the moisture from traveling up thru the floor and humidifing the house, before i put in the vapor b the windows in the house would sweat really bad in the winter now they do not at all no matter how cold the outside air temps are
    Soo there is no exposed dirt at all in the crawl space soo dust will not be a problem
    spider webs that's the worry & as Capt Crunch said put some screens on the blower intakes . More pix when i get up in the morning as i'm back to work on this

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigslappy View Post
    planning on a huge resevior on the loops out lines of the PC on that same level as the PC = I'll get a 7 foot drop',,,,
    planning on PVC pipe about 10 t0 8 inches wide & then just keep reducing down the size with reducers to 1 1/2 pipe then tee it back into two loops agin reduce agin into the rads that way i'll get water pressure to the rads in the crawlspace by gravity & by reducing the pipe size in incurments that increases the water pressure with no pump , then it's into a pair of pumps straight outaa the rads up & 2 more pumps at the PC into the water block loops for MAX flow
    It does not matter (from a pressure perspective) how wide the pipes are. Pressure only depends on height (it is a measure of Force pre Unit AREA) and as the RAD will be relatively restrictive, compared to 1/2" pipe, you will not see a noticeable difference in flow due to larger tubing.

    Just use the same size pipe for the whole thing, should be a lot easier.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by desertstalker View Post
    It does not matter (from a pressure perspective) how wide the pipes are. Pressure only depends on height (it is a measure of Force pre Unit AREA) and as the RAD will be relatively restrictive, compared to 1/2" pipe, you will not see a noticeable difference in flow due to larger tubing.

    Just use the same size pipe for the whole thing, should be a lot easier.
    by reducing the diameter in increments (the largest diameter would be the longest piece ) I get a larger volume of water in the overall vertical drop , more volume, more wieght, move gravititational pull = more pressure at the smallest diameter which would be at the the rad inlet where i need it most

  13. #38
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    day#3

    here's the setup of the hold downs for the rads ,where the rads get attached , blower gets attached, TESTING !!!
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  14. #39
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    here's the seal I put on under the rads ,door weather stripping , the use of 2 washers as a sandwich to grasp the rails & attach to the stock screw holes on rads , I used one each washer on each side of the rail hold flange to get a better grip while not disorting the rad flange
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    Last edited by bigslappy; 05-03-2008 at 03:55 PM.

  15. #40
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    detail of washer hold down
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  16. #41
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    attaching the rads
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  17. #42
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    last three pix show the other side of the rads & how the seal looks with the rads on
    now on to TESTING ! these next pix show the test .. when i attached the blower i'd didn't place it where it blew straight out & the top rad had slightly more air flow ... & i was getting on both rads more air flow at the center than across the rads evenly (i was getting a huge amount of flow every where but more at the centers )
    Now this tells me i need to place a baffle inside the box to spread the blast of air out of the blower to even up the coverage to the rads & make sure that the air flow is perpendicular to the rads ,then the baffle . I was getting alot of flow/leaks from all the seam edges of the box as expexted by me as i didn't use any gasket materials on those parts yet as i wanted to test before going any further,BUT the seals around the rads did not leak at all
    as for noise it's NOT loud at all . Bedroom A/C's are 4 times as loud as this thing.. no roar or anything a hum from the motor & that's about it !!
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    Last edited by bigslappy; 05-06-2008 at 06:33 AM.

  18. #43
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    Thats too crazy

    that could probably cool 30 PCs :p
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  19. #44
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    put a baffel in & now the air flow is way more even across both rads

  20. #45
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    Hmm... what about putting more radiators and one of those uber pumps all inside a nice box with a squirrel cage blower?

    I'm almost always available on Steam to chat. Same username.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by jspace View Post
    Hmm... what about putting more radiators and one of those uber pumps all inside a nice box with a squirrel cage blower?
    Dat's the Idea but gonna see on the cheap if it's gonna work as i need the cold air under the house

  22. #47
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    Gonna flush the rads (the Rads are New black ice GTX480's ) with hot water from the tap / hook them up to a hose & run thru hot water the rad with checking the intake temp of the hot water & then checking the output water temp while flushing,this whole while I'll have the blower running , that way i'll get an idea of what the temp drop will be of each rad . be doing this come Saturday morning stay tuned ..

  23. #48
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    Yeah I RMA the 4 eheim 1250 pumps back to where they came from..
    And scored a couple of Iwaki RD-30's from Petra's as they have them on SALE Now & i got them the next day >> THANX Petra's !

    gives me more head room, 33 feet with the Iwaki's VS 6 feet for the eheim's (as all here at Xtreme have told me that the Eheim's are out of favor & add alot of heat also) & i'm gonna do all copper piping under the floor 1 inch stuff with gental 6" diameter bends with a conduat bender

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigslappy View Post
    by reducing the diameter in increments (the largest diameter would be the longest piece ) I get a larger volume of water in the overall vertical drop , more volume, more wieght, move gravititational pull = more pressure at the smallest diameter which would be at the the rad inlet where i need it most
    Now, I admit complete ignorance of fluid dynamics and other physical sciences, so forgive me if I'm wrong. But wouldn't the small volume in the tube going up have an increased rate of flow (causing more resistance and requiring more energy), thereby offsetting any gains you would see? It just seems to me that because it's a closed system, any energy gained from gravity on the way down would also be used by fighting gravity on the way back up. Again, not really sure what I'm talking about so sorry if I'm completely off base.

  25. #50
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    it depends on the volume of the fall. For it to work properly there needs to be more volume of water being pushed down by gravity than the volumne of water that needs to be pushed back up.
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