Worklog Wooden Case

[synxll]

Hello, i'm building a new wood case, here the older I'm looking for a small case with good air cooling and silence. I started cutting the wood yesterday, i'll post some pics of the work i've do yesterday and today.

Size:
41,6 cm High = 16.38 inch
36,2 cm Depth = 14.25 inch
17,0 cm Width = 6.69 inch
It will support a maximum of 3 hard disks

Materials:
$ 32.50 MFD Wood of 9mm width (3.54 inch)
$ 03.20 Handle
$ 03.00 Self screws
$ 01.00 Hinges for the side door (2)
$ 02.80 Glue, to help on unions
$ 42.50 TOTAL = u$s 13.40 dollars

Hardware:
PSU HEC Orion 585 Watts
Gigabyte GA-MA69VM-S2
AMD 4000 Dualcore
2x1 Gb SuperTalent 800 cas4
160 Gb Sata 2 Hard Disk
DVDrw Pioneer

Accessories:
3 fans Evercool Red Scorpion of 14cm (5.51 inch) (67cfm at 22dba)
1 Fanbus Sumbeantech Lightbus for 4 fans

Here's the idea:



Some pictures of the wood i'll use, MDF of 9mm:



Another pictures of the case front



Photos of the support for the fanbus and DVDrw




That's all i've do yesterday.



Now, some pics of today:















Bye, tomorrow i'll post more

[Ghost742]

looks very nice so far. do you have plans for paint? lights ect...?

btw i love your table

[synxll]

looks very nice so far. do you have plans for paint? lights ect...?

btw i love your table

Hello, respect to paint, i don't think nothing actually, grey and black could be an option.
Respect to lights, probably nothing, but i've a cold catode in some place, maybe i could used.

Maybe i'll do a duct to the processor.
And tomorrow i'll probably start with the support of the hdds


The table have almost 20 years
Bye

[Tortel]

Thats some great workmanship, keep it up

[synxll]

Thats some great workmanship, keep it up

Thanks Tortel


Hi, some pictures, of what i do today

Here the rack for the hdds, not complete yet:



Here, some pictures of the back of the case, where it fits the PSU





Here the screws unhidde



Here the screws hidden with Glue and Sawdust




Thats its all for today

[alexey]

Nice work so far...i am looking towards seeing your case done.I belive it's only the second wooden case i've seen so far so keep up the good work

[synxll]

Nice work so far...i am looking towards seeing your case done.I belive it's only the second wooden case i've seen so far so keep up the good work

Thanks man, i'll keep posting with more updates. Now i'll read some guides for painting on wood, because i never painted any case or over wood

[Navig]

Hi,

Just peruse my signature links--Console PC, Jewel Box PC, and DIY station have all been made with mixes of material including MDF.

Painting MDF does take patience and prep. The MDF is very very absorbent, so you need quite a few layers of sealer.

Here's my basic guide for achieving a complete glossy finish:

Sand with 200 grit.
2 coats of thick paint on primer.
Sand with 200 grit.
Make sure there are is no more patterning, where the mdf is absorbing the primer.
Unfinished edges often take up to 4 coats of primer. It might be easier to use glue-on melamine trim.

After you get an even coat of paint on primer, sanded, I would then lay down 2 coats of spray on automotive primer.

Then you should have a nice even primed surface to top coat however you want.

If you were going for a complete automotive glossy finish, I'd probably do 3 coats of top coat, sand with 400 grit. Then 3 coats of clear coat. Sand with 400, 800, 1000, then buff with rubbing compound or automotive finish.


navig

[BrokenWall]

Thats nice, I like the idea, though with my experience in building Sub boxes from medium density fiberboard (MDF) it gets very heavy very quick.

I will say though with wood it is much easier to work with, and always looks good.

[synxll]

Hi,

Just peruse my signature links--Console PC, Jewel Box PC, and DIY station have all been made with mixes of material including MDF.

Painting MDF does take patience and prep. The MDF is very very absorbent, so you need quite a few layers of sealer.

Here's my basic guide for achieving a complete glossy finish:

Sand with 200 grit.
2 coats of thick paint on primer.
Sand with 200 grit.
Make sure there are is no more patterning, where the mdf is absorbing the primer.
Unfinished edges often take up to 4 coats of primer. It might be easier to use glue-on melamine trim.

After you get an even coat of paint on primer, sanded, I would then lay down 2 coats of spray on automotive primer.

Then you should have a nice even primed surface to top coat however you want.

If you were going for a complete automotive glossy finish, I'd probably do 3 coats of top coat, sand with 400 grit. Then 3 coats of clear coat. Sand with 400, 800, 1000, then buff with rubbing compound or automotive finish.


navig

REALLY THANKS FOR THE HELP NAVIG
Thanks, i'll take a look to your signature

Thats nice, I like the idea, though with my experience in building Sub boxes from medium density fiberboard (MDF) it gets very heavy very quick.

I will say though with wood it is much easier to work with, and always looks good.

Yes MDF, its easy to work than others woods



ACTUALIZATION

Hi, i do that today:

Here the hinges:



The rack for the disks:




I leave the wood ready for embedding grids, so there are not any screws to see, then i've to put some glue with sandust to fill the holes:






Here, the system close for the lateral:





Here, pictures, cutting the lateral:





The case with the lateral ready to use:






I'll keep posting with updates

[alexey]

Nice! Keep up the good work

[synxll]

Nice! Keep up the good work

Thanks man



ACTUALIZATION:


The details of the cuts of the back ports:







Here a picture, with the weight of the case, 3.1kg:




Here pictures, with the sawdust with glue, that i used to hide all the screws






Tomorrow some sanding, sorry for post today what i do yesterday, but tonight when i going to post, they are heave storms, and disconnect the modem and router for safety

[synxll]

Hello, today i've been all day sanding
The proccess.
First, with a pass of 60 sandpaper.
Second, with a 120 sandpaper.
Three, with a 180 sandpaper.
Four, with a 600 sandpaper.
And finally with a 1200 sandpaper.

The surface of th wood, keep perfectly flat and smooth.


Pictures:








Tomorrow, i'll start with the painting proccess, i'll paint with 2 hands of Synthetic Enamel white. First one hand, and 8-12hs later, some sanding with 600 grid sandpaper, and another hand of paint.

I've to start to thinking which colors use to paint the case

[synxll]

Hello, yesterday i worked on the cuts fors USB and power buttons. Today, at 12am y painted the first hand of Synthetic Enamel white. I'll probably give 2 or 3 hands. I'll sand with 1000 grid between paintings.

Here the pictures of the firs hand

[[XC] NetburstXE]

That's looking really good. I really hope this turns out well. I find complex woodworking projects can really be a pain, but everything seems to be going fine for you. Why are you building such a small case? To me one of the main reasons to build a case is to make a huge one.

[D4rkn3ss]

lovely

mind a suggestion? the door knob is too big and ugly.

[synxll]

That's looking really good. I really hope this turns out well. I find complex woodworking projects can really be a pain, but everything seems to be going fine for you. Why are you building such a small case? To me one of the main reasons to build a case is to make a huge one.

Hi thanks. Respect to the dimentions of the case, i make'n small because, its exactly the main reason of the case, good airflow on the smallest case, but, it appears to be smallest, but a TT Big Typhoon fits on it
I'll use this computer, with the onboard graphics, for download Torrents and play games with friends like FIFA 08 and FEAR on lan, small and good games. It's for that i maked small.

lovely

mind a suggestion? the door knob is too big and ugly.

Yes, on all forums i post, nobody like the knob, so i'll buy another one, more beatiful

Thanks

[Quest_7F]

for the door, you should get a setup that when you push the door in it releases out, other than that i love the setup, good work!

[synxll]

for the door, you should get a setup that when you push the door in it releases out, other than that i love the setup, good work!

It's not a bad idea, i'll think, i'll see if i've any spring in my box with stuff
Thanks

[synxll]

Hi, i painted the first hand at 12:00am, at 18:50 i sanded, first with 220 sand, and later 1000 grid sand. At 19:20 I finally apply the second hand of Synthetic Enamel white.

[synxll]

What you think about this combination of colors for the case?


Front yellow, Back white. sides black and yellow, with my nick on one side (the side of the door) writed on black. And upper, 3/4 yellow and 1/4 white. And al the fan grills black ?

[synxll]

Hello, i've finished sanding the case with 220 grid sand

[synxll]

Here some models:

[Navig]

Hi synxll,

Looks great!


For the door, might I suggest "Push to Open Grab Catch". In the US, you can see an example at mcmaster.com, part no. 10825A28. That way you won't need any knob at all, because it looks like you're going for a sleek look.

I used one here.


navig

[synxll]

Hi synxll,

Looks great!


For the door, might I suggest "Push to Open Grab Catch". In the US, you can see an example at mcmaster.com, part no. 10825A28. That way you won't need any knob at all, because it looks like you're going for a sleek look.

I used one here.


navig

Thanks Navig, i'll go for your suggestion, it's the better for the case estetic, without the knob.
It's look really nice the system to open on the video, good work and good painting job on the case

I'll continue defining how to paint, one i'am sure, i go to Easy, and buy paint