look at the picture of the ports...there is a foam mat under the board.
its a concrete slab and used as a background for visual effect
look at the picture of the ports...there is a foam mat under the board.
its a concrete slab and used as a background for visual effect
Praz, could you please indicate which is that leg #15 in that picture? http://www.flytek.effectivehosting.c...ark/vdroop.jpg
You could use descriptive words like "3th leg from the left at the bottom of the chip" as well![]()
away & gone
you're right... it says pin 13-24 on bottom row, so 15 would be the 3rd from the left... lifting smd leg :| does not seem easy to me?
DFI P35 DK T2RS, Rev. AA0, Bios DK35DA31 (Oct/31/2007)
E8400 Q745A357 @ 8*500MHz. w. 1.375v, Tuniq Tower 120.
Team Group Dark Xtreme 2x1GB PC6400(c4-4-4-12, 2.0-2.2v) @ 500Mhz c5-5-5-16, w. 2.1v
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Sata5: Nec/Optiarc 7173S Sata I, Media burner
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Seasonic S12-600w
both pin14 and 15 connect with 0 resistance to the now 0-ohm bridged resistor
Somebody tell me please. Where is Vcore Mod For LN2?
hi all
Not need Vcore mod in this MOBO because his max in BIOS is enough same on Ln2 cooling (+2v...)
We need only Vdroop mod
the life is not a long quiet river
So basically this mod is not eliminating vdroop but rather is overvolting. So those of us on air that are having issues of setting the vcore to 1.46 and then having it drop to 1.39 under load will not benefit from this mod and should think of getting rid of this board and opting for the UT which does indeed have vdroop control in the bios?
ASUS Rampage II
Core i7 920 D0 @ 4.2GHz
Corsair TR3X6G1600C8 3x2GB DDR3 1600MHz
Radeon 5870
Raid 0 2x1TB WD on SATA 3/4
Seagate 160GB on SATA 1
LG Bluray ROM/DVD RW
Corsair HX1000W
You've hit the nail on the head ElAguila. Unless you are contemplating LN2 runs, the pencil mod will not help you. All the original poster found was a way to over volt the board. In the manner it was done, the long term consequences on the balance of the components are unknown. In your case, I would not do the mod. Either live with Intel's V-droop spec or opt for board that is built to override Intel's V-droop spec through the BIOS.
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Thanks for the clarification.
ASUS Rampage II
Core i7 920 D0 @ 4.2GHz
Corsair TR3X6G1600C8 3x2GB DDR3 1600MHz
Radeon 5870
Raid 0 2x1TB WD on SATA 3/4
Seagate 160GB on SATA 1
LG Bluray ROM/DVD RW
Corsair HX1000W
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I know this sounds crazy but after I moved my ram from the orange slots to the yellow slots my vdroop went down and I was able to settle on the oc that I have in my sig on my cpu, video, and ram. Not too bad for this cpu and my 620w psu.
ASUS Rampage II
Core i7 920 D0 @ 4.2GHz
Corsair TR3X6G1600C8 3x2GB DDR3 1600MHz
Radeon 5870
Raid 0 2x1TB WD on SATA 3/4
Seagate 160GB on SATA 1
LG Bluray ROM/DVD RW
Corsair HX1000W
i tried yellow slots,no difference here...
same drop as in orange.
Asus P7P55D Pro I5 750 @ 4.0 Ghz(1.32v) 4x1Gb 1333cl9 @ 1600cl8 Intel X-25M SSD 80Gb 2xGTX260 SLI Enermax Galaxy 850w All on water.
today i made the droop mod with conductive ink.
before i had 0.07v drop @ load
now overvolts 0.01v @ load
after the mod pwms are ~5c hotter
Asus P7P55D Pro I5 750 @ 4.0 Ghz(1.32v) 4x1Gb 1333cl9 @ 1600cl8 Intel X-25M SSD 80Gb 2xGTX260 SLI Enermax Galaxy 850w All on water.
Can somebody get me a zoomed out pic of where the vdroop mod is supposed to be? Thanks
My system:
Q6600 @ 4GHz (1.48vcore)
Asus Maximus Formula & DFI DK P35
2x2GB Gskill @ 1GHz
Evga 8800GTS 512mb G92
Cooler Master COSMOS
SilverStone DA750
WD 160gb HDD
Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee GT
MCR320 w/ 3 Low Speed yates
Swiftech Vario Pump
i would think its best have the board free and clear of a case and psu wires too.
the very last thing you want is to mistakenly join the wrong points or get carbon dust flying who knows where.
inspect your mod as clearly as possible, with a magnifying glass if you have one, to make sure you have done it right.
also take careful note of the vcore results i posted so you know what to expect for actual load vcore after you complete the mod.
mine has been running with the mod since i posted this thread...it's my 24/7 rig and the cpu is a QX6850.
edit:...and yes it would be wise to clear cmos...or at least drop the cpu to around 3ghz and set stock vcore to start with
Last edited by s e t h; 03-29-2008 at 09:09 AM.
My system:
Q6600 @ 4GHz (1.48vcore)
Asus Maximus Formula & DFI DK P35
2x2GB Gskill @ 1GHz
Evga 8800GTS 512mb G92
Cooler Master COSMOS
SilverStone DA750
WD 160gb HDD
Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee GT
MCR320 w/ 3 Low Speed yates
Swiftech Vario Pump
well pencil modding is a rather inaccurate science at the very best of times.
ideally you want to measure the resistance of that component with a quality multimeter prior to pencilling it and then again after pencilling so you can see the resistance drop as the carbon conducts around rather than through the component.
usually i find one has to stroke more than i would expect before any result is seen.
please make sure you blow away any loose carbon that will fall around the area as you stroke.
in this case where i'm pretty certain you can use as much pencil as you like its also possible to pencil the sides of the component in question to reduce the resistance further.
for everyones benefit it would be very nice if you would take a few vcore and vdroop measurements, with smartguardian if you have no multimeter, so that when you're done (and repeated your measurements) we have some idea of what you achieved with the pencil method.
In the picture is says I only have to pencil the side of the resistor. I don't have to pencil anything else?
My system:
Q6600 @ 4GHz (1.48vcore)
Asus Maximus Formula & DFI DK P35
2x2GB Gskill @ 1GHz
Evga 8800GTS 512mb G92
Cooler Master COSMOS
SilverStone DA750
WD 160gb HDD
Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee GT
MCR320 w/ 3 Low Speed yates
Swiftech Vario Pump
you can safely pencil the top and both the sides too...and you can use lots of pressure.
my diagram indicating the side is really just so the component can still be seen after marking it.
with conductive ink one can paint just the side of course as the resistance will drop to 0 no matter where its done.
with pencils it will take quite a bit of carbon to drop the resistance meaningfully and i think you'll need to do the sides and the top.
Then I guess Ill have to buy a conductive pen. Will this modification void newegg/DFI warrenty?
Edit:
Will this mod only decrease the difference between the voltage found in CPU-Z and BIOS vcore, or will it also stop the jumps in vcore ffrom idle/load?
Last edited by Refresh; 03-29-2008 at 10:06 AM.
My system:
Q6600 @ 4GHz (1.48vcore)
Asus Maximus Formula & DFI DK P35
2x2GB Gskill @ 1GHz
Evga 8800GTS 512mb G92
Cooler Master COSMOS
SilverStone DA750
WD 160gb HDD
Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee GT
MCR320 w/ 3 Low Speed yates
Swiftech Vario Pump
yes it will void your warranty as you're modifying the power delivery circuit.
if your board dies for some other reason unrelated to the mod you may be able to clean the area well enough for it not to be detected. (although carefull inspection will probably detect carbon dust under the edge of the resistor or pencil marks in the solder...conductive ink can be removed with acetone)
the basic law of modding is don't do it unless you can afford to lose it.
you should be able to reduce the vdroop with just a pencil
My system:
Q6600 @ 4GHz (1.48vcore)
Asus Maximus Formula & DFI DK P35
2x2GB Gskill @ 1GHz
Evga 8800GTS 512mb G92
Cooler Master COSMOS
SilverStone DA750
WD 160gb HDD
Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee GT
MCR320 w/ 3 Low Speed yates
Swiftech Vario Pump
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