Quote Originally Posted by GenTarkin View Post
I dont quite get that....I compared 2 working yet different bios's and they didnt have anything different in their "connect power cord" section...
If you open the HxDen program i posted before, you'll find a menu called Analyze, then there's a Checksum window, if you open it and choose 16, then press ok, you'll get a checksum number at the bottom of the screen for this file (do it on YOUR default BIOS BEFORE changing anything).

Mine gives me A400, then i changed the frequency, and redid the checksum thing, so it gave me A600, now open up the windows Calculator, switch to Scientific, then Hex, put in A600 then subtract A400, you'll get 200, that's what you want to subtract from the file anywhere.

As you don't want to mess the file up, so you'll just goto the only part you're sure 100% is trash (the connect your cable part, only words on the screen when used), and start overwriting it a bit by bit, put 00 at the beginning of it, then recalculate the checksum, and so on until you get a number close to A400 again, let's say after some 00 replacements you got A3D4, then subtract it from A400, you'll get 2C, replace one of the 00 you put in with 2C, voila, your correct checksum.

As usual, my tutorial sucks, and is long for no reason, but works :P, i re-flashed my BIOS without the -f parameter, and it worked.

Thanks oohms, for pointing out the thread .

Quote Originally Posted by Rick Hunter View Post
Excellent. I successfully flashed my HIS 3850 IceQ3 Turbo with that bios. Thanks! ...
No problem.

I heard that Qimonda are burning out at higher than 2000, is that true, i'm not sure if yours are that brand or Samsung, but better check it out, or just keep it at 2000 for now.