**Official DFI LanParty UT P35-T2R Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

[mad_skills]

You can fit an 80mm fan on the transpiper.

[C-N]

Certainly going to water cool the CPU. And I'd rater not mess with precarious placement of fans balanced on random parts of the system. I already have a fan resting on my RAM and that alone is a little uncertain. So if I can just install the transpiper and put a fan on it then I'd got for it. Otherwise I think I'll just WC the NB.

Just get the LT & WC the NB then.

IMO & I think most people would see it my way too, if you are going to overclock you should really have some air moving over the board. Ok the UT can dissipate the heat from a quad priming 400fsb passively but again IMO its a good idea to move some air over the hot spots NB/PWM/RAM etc which will dramatically reduce there temps. The Transpiper is no magic device, simply bolting it on & adding a fan isn't going to drop 10,15-20oC like a decent bit of localised air movement can do for you.

You are going to WC the CPU & you already have a NB block but you will still have to improvise to cool the PWM & RAM anyway. The PWM will run hotter than the NB. Maybe you should look at a MIPS PWM block too if you want it all solidly fitted.

The way I see it its swings & round abouts.

CN

[karateo]

Unfortunately, I found out that my E6300 can not go beyond fsb 520!
i gave 1.3 VTT and 1.5 vcore!
i also upped all the other voltages a bit with no success.

Any advice to do the magic? :p

[mad_skills]

What is your NB voltage?

[karateo]

tried something more than 1.45

[mad_skills]

I think you will need at least 1.4750 or more for 510fsb and up.

[karateo]

I am going to try it right now.
But if you check the link Praz gave me a few posts earlier, you will see that he used 1.41 for fsb 535!

Be right back...

[mad_skills]

Well, it can vary i'm giving you advice dependin on your conditions.

[karateo]

nothing happened
I suppose there is nothing else to try.
I upped VTT up to 1.3 and vcore up to 1.5 with nb up to 1.58 !!!

i relaxed all memory settings and put manually 6-6-6 timings with 2.19 vdimm.
(of course and I am using 1:1 ratio :p )

time to give up?

[Praz]

At 520 you are probably hitting the wall of the processor. If so, increasing PLL will help. Doing that comes with a price though. The longer PLL remains elevated the lower the FSB wall will become.

[mad_skills]

time to give up?

Or to get a new cpu...any 1333MHz cpu or quad would simpy fly on that mobo..

[karateo]

Thank you both for your advices.
I am going to stay at 500fsb and wait for the new penryn quads to be released for higher fsb experience

now I have to test how my ballistix doing with this mobo at max 2.19 vdimm (don't want to have another dead kit!)

I will post some pictures when I finish (propably after Xmas as I am going home for vacations this Monday!)

[karateo]

Or to get a new cpu...any 1333MHz cpu or quad would simpy fly on that mobo..

this is an option, but i find no reason (apart from the fun ) to buy another core 2 duo and not wait for a quad

[emoners]

Unfortunately, I found out that my E6300 can not go beyond fsb 520!
i gave 1.3 VTT and 1.5 vcore!
i also upped all the other voltages a bit with no success.

Any advice to do the magic? :p

why just 1.3 on the VTT?

[karateo]

why? How much?
it's a core 2 duo 6300

[Roger_D25]

Karateo,
You can certainly continue increases voltages and it will probably help but it is also important to get the right combination of BIOS settings, especially when pushing high FSB speeds like that. It might take the right combo of a few different voltage settings to get it stable up that high. Good luck man!

[Delemon]

How is the stock DFI TIM on the heat pipe assembly (UT P35)? I'll be OCing my q6700 on air and wasn't sure if I should remove the DFI stuff and put on AS5 before I install it into my case.

[nfm]

TIM is very good quality. In my case it was correctly applied on the southbridge and northbridge, but not on digital pwm. I recommend getting MX-2 or other noncunductive paste and reapply the TIM on digital pwn. Putting some sinks on cpl is a great idea also, very effective on quad-cores and Prime95.

[Praz]

The CPL-4-50 has an operating temperature of 125C. Without airflow around the PWM area heatsinks may help the inductance from drifting.

[emoners]

@Praz: Can you post the link to that article about GTL reference values? Thanks!

[Praz]

Article

Tables

[emoners]

Article

Tables

wohoo! Thanks John!

[Praz]

You're welcome. Remember, the values most likely will not match up exactly to your board. Once you find settings at a given voltage that difference should carry over to the other voltages. When pushed hard most boards seem to perform better with GTL values above 67%.

[karateo]

need urgent help!

it's the fourth (?) day with my dfi motherboard and I got this annoying problem which I cannot solve.

I was surfing on the internet when my system froze. I couldn't move the mouse nor CTRL+ALT+DEL did anything.

I was at stock settings apart from aggressive settings for memory which was working at 400 4-4-4 with 2.19v (it was stable - tested with windows memtest)

Now I get a 88 with no beeps at all. I cleared bios (for 8 hours!) with no success. When I power up the system, it works for a few seconds, shuts down and then powers up but with no post screen and the 88 message.

Already tried another memory and checked all connections.
The weird thing is that I was using my pc at windows with no problems at all and low temps (all stock except ram) and now I can't get rid of this 88 message (which I don't know what it means!)

I need help soon, as I am leaving abroad on Monday and I want to leave my computer fixed ( I will have exams when I come back!)

[cantankerous]

Oh man, I JUST had this same issue on Thursday. I had one of my Raptors die on me and it took my whole system down to its knees. I couldn't post and was getting that same dreaded 88 code. I looked the code up in the Phoenix post codes manual and it said 88 was reserved which is useless as the post code means nothing. No matter how many times I shut down or restarted it would always start off at 88 and go no further.

I REALLY hope what follows helps you as I know EXACTLY what you are going through.

1.) I turned off my system.

2.) With PSU still connected I did the E-Z Clear routine by simultaneously holding the reset and power button on the front of my case for 7 slow seconds. I then shut off the back of my PSU and unplugged the cable from it. I found nothing else was needed to duplicate my results, not even removing battery, changing jumper etc.

3.) After AT LEAST 30 mins I plugged my psu back in, turned it on from the back and waited a few seconds before hitting the power button on my case. The system booted right up. I know this works cause at two seperate occasions I had this 88 error and both times I remedied it from above. Since removing the bad hard drive and carefully configuring my bios I have not had this issue since. I had my board for 3 months and never had this issue until my Raptor went down on me Thursday. I also found I had issues entering the bios as the screen would stay black with a solid blue line on the bottom while the 88 errors were occuring.

I really hope you get it sorted, it totally sucks to have your board not post. I really thought mine was dead but have been priming for hours without an issue ever since I got it back up. Another user here, Turtletrax has also had the 88 error he told me and remedied it similar to the way I did with a CMOS clear. I know you said you tried it for 8h but try what I did and let us know how you make out. Good luck.