ASUS Maximus Formula SE

[devilhood]

The biggest difference the IFX makes is for the load temps, I couldn't believe how cool it kept the NB. I was expecting much better Idle temps though. The IFX SLI may be the better option on the SB, but if you have an IFX already, just see how it fits. Mine is a tight fit and its ever so slightly twisted because of the 8800GTS but as the SB chip is more than covered it works just fine. My 8800GTS might have a slightly bigger plastic fan housing than your GTX, you never know...

I still need to get my 2 80mm fans fitted, just to have on a low setting to help keep thinks cool and quiet!

Ah, great! Yeah, the normal IFX version I have, I'll try them out. I have two Sharkoon 2000 80mm's that I plan on using with them, looking forward to getting home from work now haha.
I really love the size of the 8800 GT heatsink design though.. if only the GTX was like that

[JH_man]

I really love the 8800 GT heatsink design though.. if only the GTX was like that

Do not agree. A big problem with the 8800GT is that it dont vent the hot air out the back. So what happens is all the hot air from the GPU is still inside the case, and has to be vented out other places, meaning it will be transported around heating up other parts also.

Would be alot better if it was a 2 slot solution with ventilation out the back.

JH_man

[devilhood]

Good point, I was referring to the fact that it takes up less room in the case though but yeah, heat that isn't allowed to be blown out of exhaust properly isn't very good.

[ninogui]

Looks pretty good. What vr of Everest are tou running? I have v4.20 and beta 4.10 and they do not give correct volts on vcore and no more vdimm anymore . I'm on BIOS v0903, it starte since v0901. Also, I odnt get the choice to display NB, SB and correct +12v in options anymore.


I had various instability at even my most stable profiles with this installed, under XP pro x64 SP2 and Server 2003 Enterprise x64.

Also, anybody notice we can no longer change Performance options in PC Probe without having to restart system. And no 3wire DC PWR control so really no use in using it if you have to either restart or leave off and manually control fans to load.

Any suggestions on external fan/volt monitor to be controlled in Windows based on CPU or system load?

hi there nuckin,

i´m using the kama meter

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/ac...00_detail.html

which has been working quite good, i put it in control of both cpu tunnel push pull, NB twin fans, additional 80mm fan mid case in, and a mod i did on the sharkoon btx for side panel 120mm titan fan out. Also installed the 4 thermal sensors on cpu block, NB block, RAMsink and SB.

I´ll prob change the tunnel sflex fans for motherboard control since its not advised to conect 2 120mm fans to 1 kama knob, as these 1600rpm flexes have quite a high startup voltage (8,9volt x 2) that can damage the kama, and never reach their true power being limited to 1200rpm (in fact i dont need that too)

Other than that.. kama has been working quite good, nice colors and cheap.

hope that helped


greets

[jonny_ftm]

The biggest difference the IFX makes is for the load temps, I couldn't believe how cool it kept the NB. I was expecting much better Idle temps though. The IFX SLI may be the better option on the SB, but if you have an IFX already, just see how it fits. Mine is a tight fit and its ever so slightly twisted because of the 8800GTS but as the SB chip is more than covered it works just fine. My 8800GTS might have a slightly bigger plastic fan housing than your GTX, you never know...

I still need to get my 2 80mm fans fitted, just to have on a low setting to help keep thinks cool and quiet!

If you're passive, then of course, on idle it will be limited by your incase temperature. For all passive cooling, a very good case air flow is vital

Ah, great! Yeah, the normal IFX version I have, I'll try them out. I have two Sharkoon 2000 80mm's that I plan on using with them, looking forward to getting home from work now haha.
I really love the size of the 8800 GT heatsink design though.. if only the GTX was like that

Just take care to the mounting. The included manual in the box only shows the mounting with a 80x80x15mm fan. Online, you have the mounting orientation of the 80x80x25mm easier to find fan. If you exert too much force on the metallic levers trying to mount the 25mm fan on the 15mm way, they will be destorted. Shame on thermalright for their fu**ing manual and explanations. I had a bad time trying to repair my metallic levers as I insisted to mount my 25mm fan dispite the resistance

[devilhood]

Thanks for the advanced warning, I always thought the fan clips were very tedious, but they do their job, weird how they only explain 80x80x15mm in the manual though.

[ninogui]

I've been testing further as to why I have such instability at 3.6GHz and it must either boil down to the CPU or the 0903 BIOS. I can easily hit 450 FSB with a lower CPU clock (x7 multiplier) when my board volts are only: 1.45 NB and 1.30 FSBT
I thought it was the memory causing problems because of the 4x1GB, but it doesn't look that way now.

Is it normal for the CPU to require over 1.43v for it to be stable at 3.6GHz? 3.4GHz is completely 12+h Prime stable at 1.38v. Does VID really play a significant part when it comes to clocking above 3.4GHz with the G0? because mine is 1.2875v.
After Prime at 3.6GHz I always get a BSOD, usually the 'system encountered an uncorrectable hardware error' kind of BSOD. Prime never actually reports a problem in the log, the system just BSOD's sporadically.

My temps on full load with 3.4GHz only ever reach about 57-60C max per-core according to Everest and Core Temp; at 3.6GHz they reach about 67 on average. I might try lapping my heatsink because I'm pretty sure the Ultra-120 eXtreme should be keeping the temps a tad bit lower than that.
Core's 3-4 are always slightly cooler than the first two as well, usually by about 2 or 3 celcius, but anyways, these temps are hardly a worry.

My previous mobo P5W64-WS Pro was reporting much higher temps than this ~80c and it was due to the temperature monitor being bugged, and ironically, the Maximus Formula suffered the same fate with its recent BIOS releases.

Hi guys,

Devil i have exactly the same issues u have.. looks like a copycat, only dif is i am still on 425x8 (thks to grnfinger for a starter config) as i wasnt too sucessful on my first tryouts for 400x9.

this my present rockstable 0903 settings:

Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 8
FSB Frequency : 425
FSB Strap to North Bridge : AUTO
PCI-E Frequency: 100
DRAM Frequency: DDR2- 850
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 4
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 4
RAS# Precharge : 4
RAS# ActivateTime : 12
RAS# to RAS# Delay : AUTO
Row Refresh Cycle Time : AUTO
Write Recovery Time : AUTO
Read to Precharge Time : AUTO

Read to Write Delay (S/D) : AUTO
Write to Read Delay (S) : AUTO
Write to Read Delay (D) : AUTO
Read to Read Delay (S) : AUTO
Read to Read Delay (D) : AUTO
Write to Write Delay (S) : AUTO
Write to Write Delay (D) : AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: ENABLED
Ai Clock Twister : AUTO
Transaction Booster : AUTO

CPU Voltage : 1.40625
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.58
North Bridge Voltage : 1.58
DRAM Voltage : 2.02
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.40
South Bridge Voltage : 1.050
Loadline Calibration : ENABLED
CPU GTL Reference : AUTO
North Bridge GTL Reference : AUTO
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : AUTO
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : AUTO
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR-REF
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.5

NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED :

CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled

Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting :
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled

USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled


OCCT 1/2 hour stable 56-60ºC

Prime Small FFT 62ºc (cores 58,58,52,52)
Prime Blend 54-59ºC (cores 54,54,48,48)


All and all seems like not such high voltage for a VID 1.2875, what do you think?

heres the pic, appreciate your comments




- Reseated 8800 ultra with MX2 and the same factory thermal pads (cant find new ones on shop, and the 3m thermal pads are really not thick enough) overall temps went down 5ºC

- Lapped CPU with easypckits, went up to 2500 grit, no need i know but just for the fun of taking advantage of the whole kit lolol reseated with MX2

but i didnt lap the ultra 120 extreme.. I´ve read somewhere on an old article lapping to mirror might not be so good because of the rough surface higher thermal contact area, and from stock the extreme had precisely that texture..

Anyway i noticed using the razor-light test that the ultra is noticeably concave.. maybe to compensate the usual concaveness of intel IHS.??

Because un-lapping is not possible, do you think that lapping the extreme will yeld me even a slight drop in temps? i would be happy with 2-5ºC drop.

I got hang of the volt settings, but still dont understand quite well the CPU GTL reference and the NB GTL reference. would someone be so kind as to explain what is the difference between AUTO settings and x63, x67, etc.?

Just received a transcend pc1200 kit, gonna swap the cor-lame-sairs pc6400c4d with these and feedback on results.


greets

[devilhood]

425x8 was also rock solid for me. If I pushed the CPU any more than that it would basically BSOD my system during a minute of Prime.
Only difference with mine and yours, is that the NB can stay at 1.45v without any noticeable difference.

I'm going to be flashing back to 0802 after I have setup the IFX chipset heatsinks and also try a spare Q6600 G0 that I was going to use to build my friend's system. The VID might be lower on his, though I have not really researched this whole VID topic properly.

Lapping the CPU isn't that important unless you are 100% certain of a concaved issue, this happened a lot with E6700's, but ideally, if you want the most perfect combination, lapping both the CPU and Heatsink is your best bet to ensure the most perfect contact between surfaces.
Rougher surfaces just mean that you may need more thermal paste than usual to ensure there are no heat pockets.
Also, I have found that 'twisting' the heatsink a bit after application helps to reduce this.

The problem here isn't temps though, let's get this clear, because at 3.4 GHz, if I close my windows and my door, let the ambient temps rise till Core Temp reports the same as 3.6 GHz, the system still runs perfectly 100% stable.

It is either a CPU with bad yields or a bugged BIOS that reacts strangely to certain system setups. I will post up my results as soon as I get them.

[iadstudio]

Any suggestion on why my rear firewire port isn't working? I saw on the asus forum that some people are reporting a temp bug with bios 0903 (me too) but I haven't found anything about the firewire port. Could it be a bios bug from an 0903 flash?

[devilhood]

Any suggestion on why my rear firewire port isn't working? I saw on the asus forum that some people are reporting a temp bug with bios 0903 (me too) but I haven't found anything about the firewire port. Could it be a bios bug from an 0903 flash?

Very likely, 0903 has done some really strange things for me.
I have had occasions where the board starts up the onboard BIOS recovery utility because it did not POST properly, this is on STOCK settings also.
I'm starting to realise why they took this BIOS off the FTP, it's atrocious.
Stick with 0802, I remember using that and never had any POST problems or unusual behaviour... well... short of mine and ninogui's 3.6 GHz issues.

[eSp!s0]

This is where most overclocking begins. Using a lower multi allows you to up FSB and better RAM as well, since you now get to make better use of 1:1 for best stability. If your CPU allows, you can also get same CPU clock but now at higher FSB for more system bandwidth. It can be faster in apps that love bandwidth.


If on the origional ASUS cement for SE version, these can be good temps if if you've OC'd a bit on the mobo and a NB of 1.5v. @1.504v, I get 42c on NB & 39c on SB @ 1.10v with Fusion block.


Not sure what spacific devider you need or want, but if you leave the strap to Auto, you can get the various mixed deviders on the DRAM Frequency menu. I get 1:1/5:6/5:4/4:3/3:2/1:2. 1:1&1:2 or the most stable for me, but 1:2 is only gonna really be usefull on DDR3 so not much use here unless you got older CPU's to under 300FSB. Dont get me wrong, those early core 2's loved the 1:2 devider especially the 800FSB units. Regardless of what ratio, you need to loosen up timings a tad, increase NB, FSBT and NB GTL Ref plus Vdim to get stable. If running 4 slots, relax even further.


Here's a quick 7mn test as 480x8 in a 5:6 devider;

There is no way to get 400Strap working. I put voltages to my personal max and no of the 400strap deviders can boot at all. Strap set to "Auto" makes no changes

[ninogui]

Very likely, 0903 has done some really strange things for me.
I have had occasions where the board starts up the onboard BIOS recovery utility because it did not POST properly, this is on STOCK settings also.
I'm starting to realise why they took this BIOS off the FTP, it's atrocious.
Stick with 0802, I remember using that and never had any POST problems or unusual behaviour... well... short of mine and ninogui's 3.6 GHz issues.

Yeah.. thats right.. havent tried the firewire but can give it a go on bios 0903, will tellya latter.

funny enough althou we can still dl it, they took out the 0903 from the main ftp just like 1 or 2 days after they post it... only makes sense if the dev team found out something wrong with it, whatever it is. if we knew all the time what cooks up we´d all be working for asus and earning the big bucks right? i mean chip and low level programming can be done nowadays much easier than 23 odd years ago (i started on it with sinclair zx-80 computer 1kbyte of ram, can you believe that?)

could someone please enlight me on this:


I got hang of the volt settings, but still dont understand quite well the CPU GTL reference and the NB GTL reference. would someone be so kind as to explain what is the difference between AUTO settings and x63, x67, etc.?

thks

ok, now i go to buy some extra MX2 (i have coollab liquid pro but still not feel confortable using it, maybe in a few days lolol) and arctic clean, and

away cor-lame-sairs! welcome transcend 1200 !!

will come back with results as soon as i push these micron chips.


greets

[iadstudio]

Very likely, 0903 has done some really strange things for me.
I have had occasions where the board starts up the onboard BIOS recovery utility because it did not POST properly, this is on STOCK settings also.
I'm starting to realise why they took this BIOS off the FTP, it's atrocious.
Stick with 0802, I remember using that and never had any POST problems or unusual behaviour... well... short of mine and ninogui's 3.6 GHz issues.

Thanks. I also had more problems close to stock. I swear the more fsb you give this board/bois the better it runs. I can't find a version (other than rapidshare) of the Asus update that allow you to flash back from 0903. Know where I can get one?

Also, there's gotta' be a temp bug becuase after a few remounts my load temps changed a bit, but idle temps are always exactly the same.

[ninogui]

Thanks. I also had more problems close to stock. I swear the more fsb you give this board/bois the better it runs. I can't find a version (other than rapidshaer) of the Asus update that allow you to flash back from 0903. Know where I can get one?

iadstudio,

any problems doin it low level on bios and with a pendrive? ull be a lot safer... i already burned a trusty abit NF-7S in the past because of failed bios updating inside windows.


already been posted previously, but maybe this one here?

http://rapidshare.com/files/74694619/AsusUpdt.rar.html

hope it helped

[ninogui]

Guys,

im seriously thinking of removing the rubber caps covering the NB and just let the fan blow inside... thought of that because some air will get inside the pipes for sure and cool down a bit... lolol even if dust gets inside u can always celan it with a air-spray clener lololololol







greets

[devilhood]

Guys,

im seriously thinking of removing the rubber caps covering the NB and just let the fan blow inside... thought of that because some air will get inside the pipes for sure and cool down a bit... lolol even if dust gets inside u can always celan it with a air-spray clener lololololol







greets

Not recommended, the dust build up will eventually lead to a rise in temperatures after prolonged usage. That does kind of depend on how dusty your environment is though

I would recommend re-seating the whole Fusion Block with AS5 instead.

[ninogui]

Hi Devil,


yes i can understand that..

in fact i would probably be better with replacin the rubber caps with 2 copper caps that fit in, thermal dispersion would be much better..



thks

[devilhood]

Yup! or even tin-foil

[iadstudio]

what about putting a little water in it and capping it? Maybe it would behave like a heatpipe. Dunno if you'de be able to find an suitable, watertight cap though.

[devilhood]

what about putting a little water in it and capping it? Maybe it would behave like a heatpipe. Dunno if you'de be able to find an suitable, watertight cap though.

You'd still need a pump. Putting water in it would do nothing.

[jonny_ftm]

Guys,

im seriously thinking of removing the rubber caps covering the NB and just let the fan blow inside... thought of that because some air will get inside the pipes for sure and cool down a bit... lolol even if dust gets inside u can always celan it with a air-spray clener lololololol

No air will get inside the pipes. Heatpipes are supposed to have a special gaz inside, if broken, their efficiency is null. So, if the heatpipes are empty, than this is a real ASUS f**k-up

Maybe try the fan in a suck mode instead of pull, could be more effective and no dust

You'd still need a pump. Putting water in it would do nothing.

No, water has better conductivity than air, so theorically, heat transmission will be much more effective from NB heatsink to NB WB surface. Of course, you won't notice any difference in passive cooling. If you add a fan in suck mode in front of the NB WB, theorically you should have a better cooling. Again, it is theory, in practice it could be less tha 1°C, but you should try to know.

The problem, is that water will oxyde your cupper WB, so really not advised. Special deionized water + antioxydant + anti-algae (or just a watercooling all in one ready fluid) would be the only way to go.

The caps, though, are not made to be water-proof, so a big risk for leakage. Finally, in all cases, water will slowly evaporate. Filling the NB WB after a while, in a mounted motherboard can be risky.

Conclusion: you could try it, but better stay with stock format or watercool the thing

[devilhood]

I think the algae and oxidation problems would cause serious long-term issues here. What use is this idea if the water isn't regulated and maintainable?

[cuke2u]

No air will get inside the pipes. Heatpipes are supposed to have a special gaz inside, if broken, their efficiency is null. So, if the heatpipes are empty, than this is a real ASUS

Hi, no Asus motherboards with heatpipes have ever had anything other than air in them. I guess that's the way Asus designed them..
Chris

[iadstudio]

I talked to Asus today. They suggest sending my board in for replacement. He said it is unlikely that the rear IO firewire not working is a bios thing. Very likely it is damaged. ANybody know how Newegg is about RMA's?

[sonofander]

I talked to Asus today. They suggest sending my board in for replacement. He said it is unlikely that the rear IO firewire not working is a bios thing. Very likely it is damaged. ANybody know how Newegg is about RMA's?

newegg is the greatest that ever was
Asus on the other hand...