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Thread: experiments in water cooling a mach/vapo

  1. #101
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    Tropher Tony, 90* are a bad idea and more in a multi loop ie: CPU, NB, GPU etc etc.

    However, 90* in the form of Beer line cooler, copper fittings are fine as they have really big bores and are made for high flow!

    DD, Nylon 90* are what make the flow low. Big topic showing this in WC here!

    Baz its fine, i'd of told ya if not

  2. #102
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    It's fine Baz. 90 degree bend proportionally increases restriction on total throughput through loop. (I can say I've had more experience than lot of people here in water cooling... what can you do when phase change was not around? :P)
    The real problem as Pete has mentioned is that since all water blocks are very restrictive compared to regular plumbing, the impact shows greatly. In this case though, it isn't too much to talk about since loop is very short as well as having not much of restriction. Of course, long radius bend always is better but if space doesn't permit, why bother
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  3. #103
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    I'm really looking forward to seeing how this performs at higher load. If it will work at 250w hooked into a something like a gpu/nb loop without totally killing the water temps it's really going to be something to look into.

    I'm afraid that when the load increases it's going to add too much heat to the loop (I hope not, because this is a fantastic idea if it can just be integrated into an existing water loop). I wish you had ran prime95 or something to test it with instead of 32m, Super Pi doesn't keep a full load on the cpu, it drops and rises all through the test. Dual prime, or even dual 32m would have been a much better test.

    Got my fingers crossed that this works out.
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  4. #104
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    Way to stay out on the edge bazx.
    I truly enjoy following the work of people who are passionate about what they do and have fun pushing the envelope.

  5. #105
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    im confused on how this works? i fell kinda dumb asking but whatevs....



    is the 1/4 inch tubing on the inside of the 1/2 inch and then the water runs in the space between them? that's the only that made sense from this picture, do i have it right?

  6. #106
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    Thats right fella. The water flow through the 1/2'' of which the water cools the OD of the 1/4'' which is inside the 1/2''.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike8913 View Post
    im confused on how this works? i fell kinda dumb asking but whatevs....



    is the 1/4 inch tubing on the inside of the 1/2 inch and then the water runs in the space between them? that's the only that made sense from this picture, do i have it right?
    You are only dumb if you dont dare to ask m8
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  8. #108
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    thanks for the info guys!!!

    secondly, how did you get the 1/4" tube inside the 1/2 inch, did use use a pipe bender or did you heat them up and bend them around similar objects?

  9. #109
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    Straightened them out
    Then recoiled.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  10. #110
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    oh, on another note ( i did a lot fo thinking about this in the last few hours), let's say you were to run this "loop" through your coil there and then to a PA120.3 and pumped by any random 12v pump ( let's say a D5). Is there a way you could power up the compressor, the 3 fans(or more), and the pump; without powering on the computer so that you give the SS enough time to drop temp?

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337 View Post
    Straightened them out
    Then recoiled.
    so you put the 1/4" inside the 1/2" while the were straight and then used (what?) to re-coil them at the same time?

  12. #112
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    Anything round that is the same dia. you want.

  13. #113
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    will you want to heat the pipe to bend it around the object or just use raw muscle power?

  14. #114
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    It's soft copper so it's not a problem to form, just take your time!

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike8913 View Post
    oh, on another note ( i did a lot fo thinking about this in the last few hours), let's say you were to run this "loop" through your coil there and then to a PA120.3 and pumped by any random 12v pump ( let's say a D5). Is there a way you could power up the compressor, the 3 fans(or more), and the pump; without powering on the computer so that you give the SS enough time to drop temp?
    Yeah you can do that. UK use a 240v to 12v DC transformer.

  16. #116
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    I started a thread in the chilled liquid forum with some designs on watercooling a chilled water setup. It would use the return line to cool the dsh/condenser. Dont know if it would work well, but the drawings are up.

    Here

    Bazx, your ideas are really inspiring. Keep up the good work.


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  17. #117
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    Bazx, Sacha, when do we get to see some results?

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete View Post
    Yeah you can do that. UK use a 240v to 12v DC transformer.
    I was looking for more of a consolidated way. In a perfect world I'd like to have only one Power Button. If that's not possible, are there other options?
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  19. #119
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    There are a few ways you could do it. Start you own thread asking what ever questions you have.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike8913 View Post
    I was looking for more of a consolidated way. In a perfect world I'd like to have only one Power Button. If that's not possible, are there other options?
    Cut the green ATX wire (or use an adapter) and add sequencer circuits. You could just start up the cooling system when the signal from the motherboard goes low and pass the signal to the main power supply when the temperature is reached.

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  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike8913 View Post
    I was looking for more of a consolidated way. In a perfect world I'd like to have only one Power Button. If that's not possible, are there other options?
    Well you'd have a controler for the phase to fire the mobo up, that would be a single button as it would be the power button off the pc for that!

    To run the pump get a 240/115v pump and wire that off the compresser

  22. #122
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    now we're talking!! so the controller board for the Phase would fire up the mobo only when the evap has reached a certain temp? it has that capability?
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  23. #123
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    yes, thats what the sole purpose of gfroster and similar type controllers are. They monitor the temp and power on the pc when ready.


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  24. #124
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    I'm going to direct my question towards the thread i started because i feel like i've begun to hijack this.
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  25. #125
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    So, if you were able to seal up an existing LS or Mach condensor and get waterflow over it, it would perform the same function yes? You would have the added benefit of a greater heat dissipation surface area with the fins. Or is this missing some blindingly obvious point to the contrary?
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