I was considering the option to upgrade from my trusty 7800GTX to X1900XTX. At the end, especially as we have now sweet price for those X1900 cards, I decided to give X1900XTX a try, despite the Nvidia loyalty fact. I managed to hunt down very nice Edvard König (EK-FCX1900 ) X1900 full cover waterblock (CPU+MEM) for some nice wc overclocks and to complement the card. :wink: 7950GX2 is still the king of the hill, but sadly it was outside of my price range (not to mention super expensive waterblocks for this card). I felt that package from the above is really good value for money. It should give nice performance jump for the eye candy 1680x1050 WS resolution.
I would warmly suggest Edvard König (EK) GPU water blocks. Just installed one and build quality, look and surface finish are pretty much impressive. Proper DD alternative for half the price. DD is primarily expensive (here in EU) because of the direct import from US. EK is imported from and manufactured in Slovenia (EU). My X1900 block was £49 (including high quality barbs), compared to DD £90 price (and without barbs). All in all, HIGHLY recommended.
Here are the pics:
EK-FCX1900 (top/bottom) + naked X1900XTX + (of course) 20WGX2 - finest LCD monitor built to date. Even now, after almost half year of usage, I'm still loving it to pieces.Also, I have my desk back now - even for the experiments like this
X1900XTX core was cleaned properly - look at the NEC logo reflection! Also, EK-FCX1900 does have aluminium Vreg cooler attached. This is the reason why I didn't touch the Vreg thermal strip on the card itself (white line on the pic). Memory was cleaned and then I rub the Artic Silver Ceramique - that's why it looks dirty.
EK-FCX1900 - top side & naked X1900XTX. Really, really surprisingly good build quality of the waterblock.
First pic is showing the chambers in the waterblock, just beneath the GPU core. It should trigger some nice water turbulence. It's always a good thing. Also, EK-FCX1900 is definitely not restrictive and it should give really low (overall) pressure drop. Other two pics are - BLING! Very nice mirror-like surface finish of the core/memory pads. Shiny & reflective. No complains here. Some minor milling marks are present, but nothing to worry about as finish is already above my expectations. Thumbs up for EK!
X1900XTX preparation and EK-FCX1900 installation:
As you may notice from the first pic, I always rub the heatsinks (core/mem pads) with the thermal paste (AS Ceramique in this case). It should fill nicely those microscopic holes and imperfections and additionally improve thermal transfer. Such fine layer is the reason why waterblock pads are now appearing discoloured. On the card itself, proper (not thick) layer of the AS Ceramique paste was applied to GPU core and memory.
Next two pictures are showing the final result - X1900XTX with attached EK-FCX1900Perfect! and nice looking too. My usual practice is that I'm mounting the block two times. First time is the test to verify if waterblock (core/mem pads) are making the proper thermal contact with the core/mem on the card itself. It's simulation, as I don't like surprises than card overheat because of this. In this case, I had perfect marks on the waterblock from the core and 8 memory blocks (even text from the core and memory was slightly printed on the waterblock!). It's again showing us that waterblock build is uniform and precise. As simulation was OK, I reapplied the thermal paste and prepared the waterblock again (as in the first pic) and final attachment was next.
Few things to mention. My block version is prepared for crossfire. That means that fittings (barbs) can be used on both side of the block (up and down)! Apart from the crossfire compatibility, it does offer significant advantage, help and flexibility for the proper routing of your tubes. Block is heavy, that's around 580g of pure cooper baby!, but it doesn't bend the card ... when fitted properly and without the too much pressure. I was scared at first that this would happen, but no .. it's just fine. Just remember: don't use excessive force for those screws (like with any waterblock). You will know when it's time to stop.
I already mentioned that waterblock surface finish is very good, so you will not have much work apart from the cleaning and thermal paste application. My usual practice for the final preparation is: polish->artic silver tm remover->artic silver tm purifier->rub the thermal paste (as ceramique or pure as).
Here is my "cleaning kit":
It never let me downEven for demanding tasks, involving hugely stained, corroded, tarnished and oxidated cooper blocks.
For some live action of the waterblock, check out this thread:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=114624
Bookmarks