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Thread: 2 Stage Autocascade

  1. #1
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    2 Stage Autocascade

    Here are some pictures of my 2 stage autocascade. The compressor is a 3/4 hp. I'll post some temps when I fire it off. You can see the TC wires on each of the seps. I have also posted a picture of a project gone wrong. I guess its best to test in fiberglass before foaming. I hope this works! the pictures that is
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  2. #2
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    looks interesting, the large HX should provide a lot of capacity especially with a 3/4 hp compressor

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  3. #3
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    lol Its smokin.... I thought you would use industrial heat exchangers for your autoc but i thought wrong .

    Are the 2 large filter acting like a accumulator to hold more liquid so that if provides more capacity to cool the second stage and also to the evaporator?

    If so why the extra small filter driers? To filter more moisture out of the system?

    Cyro TEach us how to build the most ghetto autocascades for those without money for expensive gas like me. Like those Co2 autocascades is it possible to resolve the dice(dryice) issues?
    Last edited by Nyx; 04-21-2006 at 05:29 PM.

  4. #4
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    How do you have issues with dice? Playing yatzi? Or do you mean DRY Ice?
    Bring back natural selection! No more warning lables!

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  5. #5
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    And would you be willing to post the schematic of that system? Be neat to see it in more detail.
    Bring back natural selection! No more warning lables!

    The one and Only MG Pony

  6. #6
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    very nice cryo-tek. So have you used 1/4" inside 5/8" or is that 3/16".
    that bottom tube is the phase sepetator? like the way you have it close to hx, the cold would cool that tube somewhat im guessing and help with separation.
    im not exactly sure what that top pipe is for though, unless you are running two separators with hxs in parallel
    what gasses are you using?

  7. #7
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    The HXC is about 9” tall, 18” long and 5” deep. The two larger vertical tubes are the phase separators and the smaller bulbs in front of the captubes are strainers to keep the crud out of the captubes. I do purge with N2 while brazing, the strainers are extra insurance. The bottom heatexchanger is an auxiliary condenser. The center one is the first cascade condenser and the top one is the second cascade condenser. I added some notes to the picture. I’ll try it out this weekend.

    Did any one find the Cool solenoid valve? it's under the auxiliary condenser.

    Why did the picture open on this posting and not my first one?
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    Last edited by cryo-tek; 04-21-2006 at 09:04 PM.

  8. #8
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    Wait so 2 phase seperators? Wouldnt that be a 3 stager?


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  9. #9
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    Help !!

    HELP !! I'm stuck,

    I need two refrigerants, one that is similar to R-123 and one similar to R-22.

    Must have a 0 ODP
    Not R245fa
    Not R125
    Non-flammable
    The R-123 replacement should be miscible with POE oil or AB oil.

    It’s going to be a green cascade.

  10. #10
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    R134A? Which low temp gas are you goung to use i want to learn more.Hope you can teach me.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
    Wait so 2 phase seperators? Wouldnt that be a 3 stager?
    I only have two stages.

    The auxiliary condenser doesn’t count as a cascade. The condensed refrigerant in the first phase separator comes from the condenser or in my case, the auxiliary condenser. That condensed refrigerant is feed through a captube into the suction of the first cascade condenser. This cools the discharge gas from the first phase separator creating condensate for the second phase separator. And it repeats. Sorry, I ramble when it gets late.

    The first phase separator is on the left. Discharge in the side and out the top. Look at the cascades. check out were the discharge is run. Inside on cc1............
    Last edited by cryo-tek; 04-21-2006 at 10:00 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nyx
    R134A? Which low temp gas are you goung to use i want to learn more.Hope you can teach me.
    Thanks!

    Right now I'm thinking R-123, R-22, R-23, R-14. R-123 and R-22 cools the first stage, R-23 cools second and the R-14 cools the evap. If the sizing is close then I will try for a green unit.
    Green autocascades

  13. #13
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    Ah i get the picture. But where does your discharge gas exits from your phase sep cant see it in the pictures unless you have them in the center behind the phase seps sorry cant see it clearly but i believe u did it this way like all the phase seps i have seen.

    What is in your phase seps, i find it strange that the ppl in XS use much longer and bigger phase seps than yours.Yours look much more like a filter.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nyx
    Ah i get the picture. But where does your discharge gas exits from your phase sep cant see it in the pictures unless you have them in the center behind the phase seps sorry cant see it clearly but i believe u did it this way like all the phase seps i have seen.

    What is in your phase seps, i find it strange that the ppl in XS use much longer and bigger phase seps than yours.Yours look much more like a filter.
    The first phase separator is on the left. Discharge in the side and out the top. Look at the cascades. check out were the discharge is run. Inside on cc1............

    Whats in the phase separator? MAGIC THINGS ! Not really its just steel wool.
    Last edited by cryo-tek; 04-21-2006 at 10:07 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cryo-tek
    HELP !! I'm stuck,

    I need two refrigerants, one that is similar to R-123 and one similar to R-22.

    Must have a 0 ODP
    Not R245fa
    Not R125
    Non-flammable
    The R-123 replacement should be miscible with POE oil or AB oil.

    It’s going to be a green cascade.
    In terms of physical properties, R11 should replace R123, but i don't think that's as 'green' as what you're looking for.
    R115 instead of R22 maybe. I wouldn't say propane because it's flammable, but cheap and easy to find...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lma01
    In terms of physical properties, R11 should replace R123, but i don't think that's as 'green' as what you're looking for.
    R115 instead of R22 maybe. I wouldn't say propane because it's flammable, but cheap and easy to find...
    Thanks Ima01. R-115
    I think R-11 is as non green as they come. I'm looking for the Xtreme, the new.

  17. #17
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    Steel wool? I thought that was to be avoided...


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  18. #18
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    steel wool can be used as long as you purge with nitrogen else it will burn up and you'll get lots of black burned iron oxide particles in the system.

    possible r123 replacement (if you can find it) : HFE-E347mmy1 / CF3-CF(OCH3)-CF3

  19. #19
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    Here are the test results from last night.

    Operating pressures: 18 / 170
    Discharge +77c
    Separator #1: -27c
    Separator #2: -54c
    Evap in: -110c
    Air temp in box: -84c

    The box that I'm cooling is a 20 inch cube. (20”x 20”x 20”)
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  20. #20
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    And all on one compressor correct?
    Amazing.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  21. #21
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    could you post some pics of the entire setup? that would be great

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
    And all on one compressor correct?
    Amazing.
    Just one compressor. It's an old condensing unit I found at the salvage yard.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
    And all on one compressor correct?
    Amazing.
    i tough you knew what an autocascade was

    J/K
    Back in the phase change world

  24. #24
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    Well yeah autocascade is 1 compressor but he has 2 phase seperators on a 2 stager. I'd like to see a diagram cause I cant see in all that insulation foam.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  25. #25
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    I don't think there is much left in terms of diagram... unless he has some strange trick up the sleeve. What I see though is the need to explain usage and proportion of gas (and compressor) lol.
    Most of us here don't have luxury of access to many gas and experiment can get... VERY expensive. Bit of nudge here and there can help
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    Those ccb's will die if you look at them wrong.

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