Yes you can put the pipes towards the left. works great.Originally Posted by Marios
If you use the xp120 you do not need to remove the back plate.
Yes you can put the pipes towards the left. works great.
If you use the xp120 you do not need to remove the back plate.
thank you all for the comments.
is the xp-120 my best bet or should i look at other coolers? i have a spare coolermaster 120mm fan so i would prefer to use that.
is removing the retention bracket difficult?
anyone have pics of their a8n32 with their heatsinks?
Intel BX2, Q6600, 2x2GB Mushkin EM2, XFX 8800 GTS 512mb, S12-600W, Auzentech Prelude, Silverstone TJ09, Thermaltake Ultra 120 Extreme
After one year with the DFI Ultra-D..
..last impression WOW!!
Live to Mod.. Mod to Live!
If you bought your Redlines < one year ago and they are not using 3.4v, then your RAM IC's are more than likely Infineon CE-6 (DDR500 spec'd @ 3-3-2-8) like the current OCZ Plat EB's. 3D stability problems at high FSB are well documented with these IC's no matter how loose the timings. Using a divider is really handy and seems to have gotten your RAM back into its 3D stable zone, just keep in mind that when using a divider the real speed of the RAM is not what you calculate it should be depending on the divider and multiplier. See pic below:
Last edited by thinkingbear; 01-24-2006 at 11:05 AM.
I am not super impressed with the xp120. Lots of people like the Pig Typhoon.
If you mean the top bracket, piece of cake, unscreew and mount the one that came with the xp120 using the screws provided.
If you mean the back plate, I heard its a.
I currently have a Big Typhoon on my opty and while I am impressed by its cooling its size limits the type of memory you can buy. Corsair XMS pro series (the ones with the led's) will not fit in A1 slot due to the tall HS touching the heatpipes on the mammoth cooler, A2 and B2 work fine though (dual) with 2 gig XMS 3500LL. OCZ/ballistix/redline should be ok in slots A1 though as they have smaller heatsinks.
The typhoon is also a pain to fit as you will need to remove the motherboard and screw the screws in from the back (use original backplate, its fine) and then fit some nuts over the end of the screws and tighten evenly, wingnuts are great for this.
sorry just so i'm not confused - are you saying not to get the xp120? my criteria are:
-easy to install (aka leaving the stock backplate in place and as well compatible with the A8N32)
-quite noise
-better performance over the stock HSF (the x2-3800 one doenst even have heat pipes :| )
Intel BX2, Q6600, 2x2GB Mushkin EM2, XFX 8800 GTS 512mb, S12-600W, Auzentech Prelude, Silverstone TJ09, Thermaltake Ultra 120 Extreme
Thanks man, the "peg link" was my problem too. I disabled the damn thing, and everything is now running smoothly.
There are better performers than the xp120 and many consider the Big Typhoon to be the best air cooler available. I don't know of problems with the XP120 and I actually considered getting one myself (with a 120mm fan) until I heard the Typhoon was better(not the easiest to install but it IS compatible with the backplate of the a8n32). Other high performing HS are the zalman 9500 and the scythe ninja, the freezer pro 64 is also highly recommended. All I am suggesting is that you should be wary of the clearance of the HS with regards to 'tall' ram if you intend on using the A1 slot. The xp-120 looks to be as large as the typhoon.
If you are intent on a thermalright product I believe the SI-120 to be an updated version of the xp-120.
I really did not find that to be the case. The TTBT was the easiest HSF install I ever had, much easier than installing the XP-120 and with a lot less stress on the socket as well. Just remove the retaining mechanism from the front of the motherboard (the black plastic square around the CPU socket), leave the standard Asus backplate in place, and using the two shorter mounting screws provided just put them through the H bracket and screw them into the threaded holes that will be sticking up through the mobo from the backplate. With the back plate Asus provides you could almost install the BT without removing the mobo from the case if you can get a screw driver in there at the angle it needs to be to clear the aluminum fins.
After using both I can say for me the TTBT was easier to install, quieter (than the Panaflo 120 L1A @ 12v I used with my XP-120, and gave better temps by ~2°. Slam dunk. If you are concerned about "tall" RAM on the TTBT don't think that you can use "tall" ram with the XP-120, it is a tight fit getting a regular stick under there, RAM with LEDs are right out.
Last edited by thinkingbear; 01-24-2006 at 06:54 PM.
hey Ic3man,
so which setting seemed to do the trick? can you give the methodology? I have a 165 that I'm stuck at 2.7GHz with at 1.4Vcore; primes for hours, 3d stable, etc. but won't let me go past 300fsb on htt. just hoping that what worked for you would work for me, or at least give me a clue as to how to approach this "wall"
Before I got my water cooling I had an XP120.
It is easy to install (no need to remove the back plate), it is not huge, it is not heavy, it has a copper base, with aluminum fins and heatpipes and does an excellent job.
I had a Panaflo fan on (two pin cable - no rpm) and Quiet fan enabled.
I saw no big difference in temperatures going from the XP120 to water cooling.
In almost all previews I read, XP120 is the best.
The original heatsink that came with my 4400+ also has a copper base and heatpipes but I didn't use it.
Does the extra fun that came with ASUS fit along with the stock CPU cooler?
Then use the ASUS chipset fan along with the stock CPU cooler.
The reason is this.
Because the CPU fan cools both chipsets, they get really hot with Quiet fan enabled.
Dissable Quiet fan and you get a lot of noise from the CPU fan.
The CPU temp never gets over 48oC with XP120 and Quiet fan enabled.
(Is it the same with the stock CPU cooler at 1.4 vcore?)
The chipset fan DOES NOT interfere on the air flow.
ASUS says it does. They are wrong.
HUGE coolers DO interfere on the air flow (XP120 is not tall though).
So the real problem is the chipset cooling, not the CPU cooling.
What I like more with WC is that I use the extra ASUS fan to cool the chipset and my CPU is a bit cooler on heavy load.
Last edited by Marios; 01-24-2006 at 11:08 PM.
having a minor nightmare
we have 2 A8N32's here. The first one is nice - you press alt F2 at post and it picks the BIOS off the cd and flashes fine.
Both boards came with 903 but we have got the first board really stable at 2.7ghz with 703 so we want to put that bios on the 2nd board.
And that's where the problems start.
Pressing alt+F2 at post on board 2 makes it go to sleep (fans still on but no response, monitor goes off)
so then tried FUDOS from a floppy and it won't let us flash to an older BIOS?????!!!!!
the ASUS windows utility has the same quirk
any other suggestions anyone please!!!!
does winflash work on this board???
i'm at my wits end.
Can you flash the same BIOS with AFUDOS?
Last edited by Marios; 01-25-2006 at 09:01 AM.
not sure - not being rude but why would that help ???
thanks for the quick reply.
anyway, maybe the 903 will be ok?
priming now at 2.6ghz @1.425v on our 2nd opty165. the first is prime stable at 2.7ghz at the same volts.
using OCZ plat 4800 mem running 290fsb on the 183 divider so 260mhz @ 1T (2.5/3/3/7/16/15)
Last edited by djneils98; 01-25-2006 at 08:42 AM.
Well for starters I need 1.55 vcore to reach 2.7 so it sounds as though you have a better chip than me. Have you tried upping the vcore some more (keep an eye on cpu temps tho)?hey Ic3man,
so which setting seemed to do the trick? can you give the methodology? I have a 165 that I'm stuck at 2.7GHz with at 1.4Vcore; primes for hours, 3d stable, etc. but won't let me go past 300fsb on htt. just hoping that what worked for you would work for me, or at least give me a clue as to how to approach this "wall"
The HTT multiplier settings are what swung it for me. For some reason my board defaulted to auto and 2x but after setting these :
3x
16 up 16 down
3x
16 up 16 down
I managed to get 2.7 stable along with relaxing the memory also ran a 133 divider. Although I cannot get any further now, I'm more than happy with 2.7 so I'll stick with that. Temps are a bit high so no doubt I will have to drop down to 2.6 and lower the vcore a little in the summer unless the wife lets me buy phase
Well for starters I need 1.55 vcore to reach 2.7 so it sounds as though you have a better chip than me. Have you tried upping the vcore some more (keep an eye on cpu temps tho)?
The HTT multiplier settings are what swung it for me. For some reason my board defaulted to auto and 2x but after setting these :
3x
16 up 16 down
3x
16 up 16 down
I managed to get 2.7 stable along with relaxing the memory also ran a 133 divider. Although I cannot get any further now, I'm more than happy with 2.7 so I'll stick with that. Temps are a bit high so no doubt I will have to drop down to 2.6 and lower the vcore a little in the summer unless the wife lets me buy phase
thx for the response, man
for the htt/sb->nb multi's, I'm using:
3x
16u/16d
4x
16u/16d
if i try to go 3x on the sb->nb things get crazy, i don't know why
initially, i had issues getting up to 166 divider with my GSkill HZ but i threw my "dying" ballistix back in and they'll do the 166 dance no problem.
another major issue i have are temps! i'm using a TTBT with a silverstone120 on it (which can really crank) but my cpu temps always seem much higher than everyone else's. this was true with my x2 on a dfi and this a8n32. if i go higher than 1.4Vcore the cpu temp will zoom up to ~60C and cause instability with 2 simul-instances of p95 unless i crank the silverstone fan (in which case temps drop to ~53C-ish in the 2.7+ range). i can't get my cpu to operate at higher than 300htt, no matter what. any suggestions? btw, how accurate are the cpu temps in Probe2?
I get around 51-53c when priming both cores depending on room temperature which is usually around 23-25c. The motherboard is around 36-38c.
The temperature your getting does seem very high especially if its at 1.4 (you sure you aint overvolted the vcore (+0.2v) making 1.6vcore? I wouldn't run my opty at more than 60c tbh. Have you got the fan setup right on the big typhoon? Blowing rather than sucking? And does your case have adequate ventillation. I'm using a p180 case with 2 120mm fans as exhaust and one as a blower.
As for asus probe imo, no it isn't very accurate it will just give you an 'idea' of temps.
my mobo temp can be anywhere from 29-33C, depending upon what time of day it is (day = warmer). the cpu overvoltage option is definitely disabled since i am monitoring the voltage closely while i bench; also, i have enabled it at times to achieve >1.4Vcore to see if that would level things out. the fan on the TTBT is definitely pushing and not pulling. I'm using the AeroCool SpiralGalaxies case (similar layout to P180?), which has a 120 in front of the case drawing air in and a 120 directly across from it in the rear as exhaust. there is a 120 inside the case blowing incoming air onto the mem and chipset, the TTBT is directly in the path of airflow between the front and rear 120's. in other words, i do not believe airflow to be an issue
the fact that 300fsb is totally prime/memtest stable and 305 is not (at any voltage or mem divider) sort of spooks me. and i'm not "unhappy," per se, since I got a 50% overclock at near stock voltage with a cpu that is clearly better than the X2 it's replacing. it is that i believe that this 165 of mine has more to give than it's giving. until i figure it out i guess i'll have to "suffer" at 2.7GHz dualcore opteron style, eh?
I also have Ballistix z503 and G.Skill HZ 2GB kits. I haven't had long to play with the G.Skill, but have already found that the Ballistix is superior in this board and that my CPU temps are slightly higher with the G.Skill.
The Ballistix is just unbeatable 1GB RAM (when it's good) and I think that's reflected in the price differential with the G.Skill.
I didn't try your suggestion to apply 3-3-2-7 yet. I will though.
What happend with your phase problem?
I saw no posts from anyone else using a phase here with A8N32-SLI deluxe.
I hope you didn't have any more dead CPUs.
Bad silicon gunk that solidified, Marios. I've been trying to clean it out of the socket; I'm afraid that my A8N32 is going to be air-cooled only from now on, because I'll never be confident of getting enough grease down the holes again.
I am actually. No problems. FX55/VapoLS and dual 7800 GTX (BFG) watercooled.I saw no posts from anyone else using a phase here with A8N32-SLI deluxe.
I hope you didn't have any more dead CPUs.
Here's a link to my local Worklog for this Project
Never argue with Idiots...they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!
i-Prodigy (small APD2 GFX/CPU waterloop) ; HP Blackbird Project Log (dual-Xeon Watercooled) ; Macho Mini Project Log (Sandybridge watercooled mini-ITX)
We have 2 identical setups here - opteron165, A8N32, OCZ plat pc4800 (2x512) and X1800XT.
At 2.7ghz with identical BIOS's (703) and BIOS settings (1.425v, 300x9, 183 divider mem settings as per the OCZ guide in this thread http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17410,
one machine restarts normally and one hangs. Both have primed for 24+ hours and have run every 3dmark going etc,etc.
Could someone who solved this problem on their machine (if anyone has) let me know what they did. I've tried the suggestions earlier in the thread with no success.
i was told that the 1009 did not help that problem, but i decieded to give it a try as i was on the 703 and the warm boot issue happened alot. i switched to the 1009 and the problem has all but disappeared. i have not had it happen under a normal restart with the 1009. i have had it hang after leaving the bios, but under normal conditions it seems to have really helped me.
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