CrossFlow Evaporator

[Sweeper]

Thought I would share a little project I'm working on. I decided to make a few evaporators and mounts, but as always with a little more xtreme. First the evaporators are made from 2" diameter copper and heights range from 1 7/8" to the "big mama" 2 1/4". The design of the evaporator is for refrigerant to enter from the bottom and make a full circle and step up to the next level and continue to circle the evaporator and exit at the top. I call it the Crossflow...after the low temp water blocks I made for Goliath. Also, the temperature probe will be at the bottom and center of the evaporator to get the most accurate temperature reading.

I've had this design on the table for awhile, but just now getting time to make the evaporators. I will be making universal mounts for these evaporators, but I have little surprise with the design.

What do you guys think?

[teyber]

awsome 4 axis machining there :O

was that done on a manual mill!?!?

2 1/4" tall x 2" diameter.. those are big evaps can't wait to see the mounting. ive played around with similar ideas but they would have taken to long for me to make on my small mill. id try to make a brazing ring on them... after lots of attempts with slide over its just a pain to have to re-surface the base after brazing.

whats the channel thickness and the base thickness? i think you could get away with less then half the heigth... and im not sure how a base that thick will work out.

great machining my friend

edit-

what i ment with the brazing ring is have the OD's be the same... hard to explain why... maybe you have better luck brazing them them me

[Sweeper]

awsome 4 axis machining there :O

was that done on a manual mill!?!?

2 1/4" tall x 2" diameter.. those are big evaps can't wait to see the mounting. ive played around with similar ideas but they would have taken to long for me to make on my small mill. id try to make a brazing ring on them... after lots of attempts with slide over its just a pain to have to re-surface the base after brazing.

whats the channel thickness and the base thickness? i think you could get away with less then half the heigth... and im not sure how a base that thick will work out.

great machining my friend

The evaporators were made with manual mill and lathe...alot of setup time and jigs to do this work. I know the size might be overkill...but these babies shouldn't have any problem with removing heat and mantaining low temps.

The channels are 1/8" and the top channel is 3/16", the base is 1/4" thick. I will not be using a ring for the evaporator...the mount that I will make will be ringless ... I think you will like the design. By the way, can forget about insulation around the evaporator too!

[teyber]

nice Will you be recessing a 2" diameter ring in a plastic ring and cutting that in half and inserting that the mounting which has the same ID as the OD of the plastic with the 2" ridge in it?

interesting to see what you are thinking of with insulation i think your core temps will be very poor with a very thick base like that though...

[sjg0]

Wow looks really cool!

If i were you I would cut those channels just a bit deeper into the center, and as teyber said, I think I would make the base thinner.

Cool stuff though

[Sweeper]

Wow looks really cool!

If i were you I would cut those channels just a bit deeper into the center, and as teyber said, I think I would make the base thinner.

Cool stuff though

The channels are 1/8" wide x 5/8" depth. I can't go much deeper, because of the design of seperating the liquid and suction side. The vertical seperating bar forms a pie shape, when milled in a circle. Go much deeper and the two sides will be exposed to each other.

Why would a thinner base be better...I thought more mass would absorb more heat. Most of the evaporators made by other builders usually have a thick base.

[teyber]

whos evap in particular are you thinking of?

[wdrzal]

nice

interesting to see what you are thinking of with insulation ..

I pretty sure I know what he's going to do, wondered for years why no one did......I won't ruin his surprise ,you'll have to wait.

[Sweeper]

whos evap in particular are you thinking of?

Chilly1 evaporator comes to mind and I've seen others in the forums. I'm still interested why thinner is better with direct die, I know thinner is better for low temp liquid block. The block I made for Goliath has a 1/8" base.

Attached is the chilly1 evaporator...the base looks to be close to 1/4" thick.

[[XC] gomeler]

whos evap in particular are you thinking of?

Maybe one of Kayl's cascade evaps? Most evaps that I can think of have thin bases. Always wondered what a thick base would do though with a 3-stage cascade. Something like 1/2" base like a Kingpin F1EE liquid nitrogen pot

[sjg0]

The channels are 1/8" wide x 5/8" depth. I can't go much deeper, because of the design of seperating the liquid and suction side. The vertical seperating bar forms a pie shape, when milled in a circle. Go much deeper and the two sides will be exposed to each other.

Why would a thinner base be better...I thought more mass would absorb more heat. Most of the evaporators made by other builders usually have a thick base.

Ok ok. Sorry only quick glanced at the top of the evap.

Thinner base would be better I think because with a thicker base it would take a longer time for the heat to transfer across the copper. so when you fist turn on the computer, it will take a few minutes for it to cool down, and when u go from no load to full load, you will get bad temps because it will be harder for the coolness of the evap to combat the processor, you will almost have the cooling point in the copper base, and not on the surface of the cpu.

Sorry if im not making any sense. I understand it in my mind, just kinda hard to explain.

[sjg0]

I must say, your work looks SUPER clean though.

[teyber]

Maybe one of Kayl's cascade evaps? Most evaps that I can think of have thin bases. Always wondered what a thick base would do though with a 3-stage cascade. Something like 1/2" base like a Kingpin F1EE liquid nitrogen pot

this is not from a thermodynamic standpoint at all but...

tim- was telling me he was experimenting with huge evaps, pot sized with very thick bases. he said they got very cold but would slowly start to heat up. good for small runs.

jinu117 told me a certain thickness base he had found that if he went any thinner it would get expontially worse... It was much thinner then i had ever thought it would be

so maybe tom could enligthen us

[andre X_X]

love the evap.... for evap like this its better to cool the center pole since it act as buffer and has direct contact with cpu core i think...

[HDCHOPPER]

beuuuuteeefull work man !

[gosmeyer]

Very nice!
Thats alot of hand wheel crankin let alone hittin the numbers

[piotres]

Nice idea . Also quality look very good .

[wdrzal]

Very nice!
Thats alot of hand wheel crankin let alone hittin the numbers

Thats the difference between a great old fashioned Machinist & Autocad & CNC . Not that their is any thing wrong with CNC, fast & highly accurate,it's just more PC based than cranking the wheels (Gray Matter based).

[Sweeper]

Thanks guys for the compliments. Its always great to hear positive feedback from experienced builders for all the hard work I put into my projects. I'm waiting on materials that should arrive this week and I will start making the evaporator mounts.

Wish I had a cascade to test the evaporator...but I don't, so I will use a tandem compressor set-up that I have setting in my shop. I need to make a dummy load tester. Can anyone suggest a cheap way to control watts of heater cartridges?

[ruffus]

i think you couold just use a dimmer switch
by the way sweet evap nice hand work for no cnc

[runmc]

Very nice work

I think a stepper design would be much easier to mill and you wouldn't have the dead spot along one side.
Do you find an advantage to this design over a stepper?

[teyber]

Thanks guys for the compliments. Its always great to hear positive feedback from experienced builders for all the hard work I put into my projects. I'm waiting on materials that should arrive this week and I will start making the evaporator mounts.

Wish I had a cascade to test the evaporator...but I don't, so I will use a tandem compressor set-up that I have setting in my shop. I need to make a dummy load tester. Can anyone suggest a cheap way to control watts of heater cartridges?

yes... you could buy a 120v, 250w cartridge heater and just give it 120v but it will only be 250w... good enough for testing

[Sweeper]

Very nice work

I think a stepper design would be much easier to mill and you wouldn't have the dead spot along one side.
Do you find an advantage to this design over a stepper?

I don't know if my design will have advantage over the stepper or any other design. My intent was to design a evaporator that functions much like a coil evaporator. The vertical bar is not a dead spot, its part of the core and should get as much heat removal as any other part of the evaporator.

The stepper would definitely be easier to make, but I just wanted a different design than most builders use.

[Sweeper]

yes... you could buy a 120v, 250w cartridge heater and just give it 120v but it will only be 250w... good enough for testing

So, this how most dummy load testers are made. I thought cartridge heaters needed to be controlled to maintain certain wattage or the copper block would continue to heat up above the required wattage.

[loonym]

Very nice machine work. Will be great to see some results.