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Thread: Assembly Guide - Chilly1 Evaporator.

  1. #1
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    Assembly Guide - Chilly1 Evaporator.

    As of Jan 6 2005, this is the latest revision of the Chilly1 evaporator. You can buy the parts assembled, or in pieces. You can even buy the parts individualy. Chilly1 will make it happen no matter which way you choose to make your purchase.
    There is no discussion of prices allowed on the forums, so if you want pricing , contact Chilly1 via personel message (PM).

    These are the parts I received from Chilly. I am not showing a 10ft coil of 1/8" copper that I received in the first pic. You will see the coil in latter pictures.



    The first thing I did was drill a 1/8" hole down through the spirals right up against the side of the inside core. Drill the hole all the way to the bottom surface. Do not drill all the way through the block. The 1/8" copper tube will go through these holes down to the bottom of the block and feed refrigerant from the CPEV (if that is what you choose to use) to the bottom of the block where it will spray out into the inside of the block.







    The refrigerant will enter the bottom of the block and evaporate into a liquid-gas mist, traveling up through the spirals absorbing heat along the way. When it reaches the top of the spiral, it will need ahole to exit so it can enter the suction line. I drilled a 1/4" hole at the very top of the block, all the way through the center. This way the refrigerant can enter from both sides of the block, and your passage will be more equal to the size of the suction line.

    The idea to drill the hole all the way through the center belongs to pythagoras. Very good idea. Thanks M8









    Now you will need a hole in the top of the block for the suction line to go into. Chilly1 provided me with a very nice 36" flex line for my suction line. Drill the 3/8" hole for the suction line just deep enough to reach the bottom of the 1/4" hole you drilled for the gas outlet hole.





    When you braze the 3/8" suction line into the block, make sure you don't push it down too far and block the 1/4" hole.



    You should have something like this when you are finished.



    Before you put the round sleeve on the block, get your copper tube at the correct depth in the block and mark the tube at the top outside of the block. This way when put the sleeve on and get ready to braze , you will know that the tubes have not slidden down into the holes.

    Now it is time to braze it all together.

    I use a Coleman camping stove to help heat the block. This helps tremendously. I can even use my small torch and have good results. For those of you using propane torches, a camp stove will make it soo much easier for you. They are under $20.



    Light your burner and torch and let's get to brazing.



    Heat the block slowly from all side until it gets red hot. Hopefully you can get it that hot because the brazing alloy will flow much easier.

    I got the top nice and hot and brazed the 3/8" and 1/4" copper tubes. Then I ran a fine bead around the top of the block where the sleeve and the block meet.



    After I finished the top, I moved down and brazed the gap at the bottom of the block and sleeve.



    After you are finished brazing you will need to pressure test your work. There is no need going any further untill you are sure it doesn't have any leaks or you will be wasting your time if you do have a leak. I took a piece of 3/8" copper and swagged one end of it. On the other end I brazed a shrader valve. You can use your clamping part of your flaring tool and a 3/8" swagging tool to do the job. This will save you money on not having to buy a coupling to braze the two pieces of copper together. Plus you will have one less joint.





    Here is the joint brazed together.



    Here is a picture of the assembled block.



    I have the assembly under 400+ PSI of nitrogen for 24 hours to make sure there are no leaks.



    The mounting hardware is very easy to use and works on AMD and Intel mobos, as well as ATI ans Nvidia video cards.

    This is Intel Socket 478 -





    By placing a different backplate on the boot, you make it a universal CPU mount.



    If you leave the boot on and use the ATI oval backing plate you will have a hard time getting to the screw heads, but it could be used this way.



    Here is ATI mounting unbooted -



    You can use the Nvidia backplate with the boot -



    Or you can use the Nvidia backplate bootless -



    If you choose to use the boot, you could fill it with foam, or run you neoprene all the way down around the evaporator.
    If you choose to go bootless you can wrap the evaporator with more neoprene. It's just that simple.

    I know I didn't show the different mounting methods attached to actual cards and CPUs. You'll just have to use your imaginations I will add pictures when I mount my evaporator to my Sapphire x800PRO VIVO. I'm going to mount it bootless unless I can be convinced otherwise.

    As you can see the evaporator fits very flat and snug on the board.

    Good luck with your new Chilly1 Evaporator - I love all of mine.
    Last edited by runmc; 08-17-2013 at 06:16 PM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
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  2. #2
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    When I brazed a pair of chilly1 evaps, I purged with nitrogen, but oxidation was forming in the inside, then I needed to clean the evaps with vinegar (acid) all night, clean and then cooked in an oven for 6 hours to dry.
    Do you think that butane or propane will really prevent oxidation?
    It was a pain in the ass to loose a day in the process.
    I see that base thickness increments. Do you notice any difference in performance?

    BTW, Great guide!

  3. #3
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    Well... I for one wouldnt braze while purging the block with butane or propane, too much of a risk of autoignition at brazing temps!!

  4. #4
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    Really nice guide, and did I say that this tiny torch is amazing

  5. #5
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    The 1/8" copper tube will go through these holes down to the bottom of the block and feed refrigerant from the CPEV
    You will be running a cascade setup isn't it?
    Is there any way to run a single stage with a cpev not near the evap?

  6. #6
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    Very nice guide just as always Ron

    Ssilencer: I dont see any reason why you wouldn't be able to use the valve at the other end of the suctionline.
    cool cool cool!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hatemi
    Very nice guide just as always Ron

    Ssilencer: I dont see any reason why you wouldn't be able to use the valve at the other end of the suctionline.
    Because nobody use a valve in normal single stages, and the people that use it (berkut, and others) put the valve at 5cm of the evap or near.
    And it would be great if we just put a valve and not a cap tube anymore
    I saw valves at the other end of the suction line, but only in cascades.

  8. #8
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    On my first stage I use a TVX (ALCO - TI-SW, with 0001 oriface) which I am very happy with.

    I don't see any reason for not using a TXV (the alco) on a single stage.

    I don't have it on a cascade yet. That will be soon though.

    The evaporator is very versitile and can be assembled and used in many situations. This only being one way.
    Last edited by runmc; 01-22-2005 at 07:09 PM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

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  9. #9
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    I usually drill a 1/4 inch hole straigh through but the larger single hole should work well great guide BTY>>> Thanks for posting it.,,I will stickie it..

  10. #10
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    Great looking evap and clear guide Chilly and Ron
    So do you use neoprene to insulate under the housing or polyurethane foam spray?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LardArse
    Great looking evap and clear guide Chilly and Ron
    So do you use neoprene to insulate under the housing or polyurethane foam spray?
    What do you suggest??

    If you plan on switching from cpu to gpu, I think you would be better off using neoprene. If you planned on putting it on a cpu and leaving it, you could go with the foam.

    Like I said earlier, the mounting hardware is very versatle and can be set up several different ways.

    I think it would be best if I added more pictures of the different ways the mounting hardware can be used.

    BRB
    Last edited by runmc; 01-09-2005 at 02:56 PM.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

    is the remedy

  12. #12
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    Very nice,but you didn't show us how to assemble the GPU mounting kit.
    Regards :banana4:

  13. #13
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    But he did say:

    I think it would be best if I added more pictures of the different ways the mounting hardware can be used.
    Coming soon to a forum near you

    Regards

    John.

  14. #14
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    Different mounting pictures have been added.

    Go back to the first post and scroll to the bottom.
    UNDER THE ICE .com
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  15. #15
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    Wow. That's a great design. Good thing its compatible with a lot of mounts.

  16. #16
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    very nice guide there, and that evap is a piece of art.
    what are the dimensions of the new evap ie height and diameter of just the dd copper block??

  17. #17
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    very nice guide
    ---

  18. #18
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    1.5" inches tall adn 1.5" OD the enclosure is 2.7 inches

  19. #19
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    I added a bead probe by drilling a small hole into the side of the evaporator. This should give me close evaporator temps.



    Does anyone smell ethylene????
    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

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  20. #20
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    AFAIK The first 4mm or so in the bottom of the evap should be solid.. but still thats a little risky.

  21. #21
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    Great job Runmc. That evap has a 11 MM base solid. No problem you can drill a hole all the way through if you wanted to but that would detract from the capacity a little.

  22. #22
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    why is the base so thick 11mm? does this help with better load temps or something.
    or is that because of machining process?
    i love the way you installed the the temp sensor runmc

  23. #23
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    The thicker base provides the mounting for the block. The total height is 39 MM The added base Diameter coupled with the thicker center and added fins gave this block more capacity and a more stable temperature range at teh base than the first two designs I had.

  24. #24
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    So far two pieces of 3/4 armaflex wrapped with aramflex tape, is keeping the moisture out.

    UNDER THE ICE .com
    Phase Change Cooling

    is the remedy

  25. #25
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    looks so cozy

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