Problems unlocking palimino

[cleoent]

Sup everyone, I think i unlocked correctly however only some of the multipliers work correctly in my asus a7n8x 1002.001 uber bios. 7 works, 8 works, 11 works and 12 works. All the of the .5 don't work and all of the mults. that i didn't mention. Anyone know what i could have done wrong? Thanks for you help!

By the way it's a 1700+

[g.l.amour]

palomino's are real §§§§§es to unlock. i would buy a crappy tbred-a just to get rid of that near impossible unlock on a palomino. i c lots of ppl that have no trouble with it. i tried unlocking my 1800+ 3 times to get all mults, 3d time by luck i got the one i wanted most : 11, was pure luck though. now i can get 9 and 11 and 11.5

[Kosmos]

Welcome to Xtreme!

I had similar problem once, but i removed the conductive greace and put it back again, and then it worked...

[antipop]

I had the same problem after several tries i was able to get all the integer but not the .5, but after a few months the ink started to wear out and i had to unlock it again but i don't know what happened the chip died. So i bought a tbred A and now i've no problem (even on my aging mobo)

[Tweaked!]

1st off, Welcome to Xtreme!

2nd, You more than likely didn't make good contact on one of the points. You should have all available multis your mobo has to offer if unlocked properly. So basically, start over and the next time around make sure you ensure that there's no coating over the contact points (if this is one of the organic palo's they have like a clear coating over them), and use a good conductive paint to bridge with. Most of those conductive greases aren't very conductive. They've been famous for losing their conductiveness through time too. The paint that comes with a rear window defogger repair kit (found at almost any autoparts store) usually is a decent quality copper based paint that won't lose it's conductiveness over time. Just take your time and expect that it could take several attempts to acheive a proper unlock. I've had some that were real bears to get, and some that happen on first try.
From what I've seen lately, it seems like most of the newer tbreds are all coming unlocked (which I can only confirm two xp1800's so far, mine ).

[candjac]

Originally posted by cleoent
Sup everyone, I think i unlocked correctly however only some of the multipliers work correctly in my asus a7n8x 1002.001 uber bios. 7 works, 8 works, 11 works and 12 works. All the of the .5 don't work and all of the mults. that i didn't mention. Anyone know what i could have done wrong? Thanks for you help!

By the way it's a 1700+

2 of your L1 closings were NG, either grounded or still not closed...they are the 1st and 3rd from the left, the .5X and 2X Bit Value signal circuits. So you only have to redo those 2. Here's how to understand why those 2.

1700 has ALL 5 Bit Value signal circuits set LO by default. All other Multiplier need 1 or more of the 5 signal circuits set HI, so if a Multiplier setting is NG then we decode which L1 closing mod has a problem.

7X needs 4X reset HI so 4X L1 circuit closing = OK
8X needs 4X + 1X reset HI so 4X and 1X closing = OK
11X = default ALL LO so tells us nothing.
12X needs 1X reset HI so 1X closing = OK

ALL n.5X = NG means .5X cannot be reset HI, either
Grounded during closing its L1 or still not closed because of film on dots as someone has posted.

9X = NG needs 4X + 2X reset HI, so since 4X L1 proven OK then 2X, like .5X, grounded or still open.
10X = NG needs 4X + 2X +1X reset HI, so since 4X and 1X L1s proven OK then 2X, like .5X, grounded or still open.

Your complete listing of "I set vs I got" made it easy to decode which L1s' closing mods are probably at fault...
that + understanding AMD's Multiplier Code.
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Multiplier Code, Circuits, Palomino articles to learn the code and correlation of bridges and Bit Values...then you can do your own decoding next time.
John C.

[cleoent]

awesome post! Thanks!