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Old 03-22-2005, 12:42 PM   #1
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Chilly1 installation and insulation guide for A64

In this example I will be using a A64 and a RS480 motherboard. I have included a picture of the DFI NF4 board as well to show the clearance. I installed RAM into to show clearance on these as well.

RS480 shot 1


RS480 shot 2


DFI shot 1


DFI shot 2


Chilly1 cooler w/ Chilly1 block. This is sample of the shipping units.
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Old 03-22-2005, 12:56 PM   #2
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These are the parts that I will be using except the threaded brass rods. Those are for the LGA775/socket480 mounting. They will be cut in half.

4x wing nuts
4x threaded rod
4x nuts
4x nylon washers
2x 4"x4" foam pads
2x foam donuts
1x backing plate
1x top plate 1/2" thick, 1/4" thick or offset available on request.
1x top plate for ATI Radeon and Nvidia
1x rubber o-ring
1x discombobulator thing, it has the 1.5" hole in it.

The centra top has enough give so that springs are not needed.


This is the backing plate installed over the original CPU retention, this is made to fit and you can use thin foam tape layers or the supplied foam if you have room.


Press the foam onto the posts, in this example I use nuts to secure the posts into the original retention plate. We use the same size threaded rod. I dislike the rod loosening from the bottom so I tighten the nuts on the bottom.


I push the donut onto the discombobulator so that it sits flush. I then line it up and mark the holes in the foam.


I then installed the head pieces with ring. It should look like this.
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:02 PM   #3
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Line up the core and push the foam down. This will be close enough as the top plate is aligned perfectly for the core. Keep pressure and tighten the wing nuts. The foam will push down to the motherboard for a tight seal.


Take the time to fix the edge and check the seal. It should be tight all the way around. This seal will work for 24/7 operation.


Another view showing clearances. RAM is still changeable without problems with insulation taking up space into the dimm sockets.


Yes, I know the mobo is turned the wrong way for this example. I wanted to show best angles in this example. Also pictured is a sample of the production unit.
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:15 PM   #4
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To sum this up, this kit fits all current Chilly1 blocks including cascades.

It fits A64, Socket 775 and Socket 478/480 CPU's
It fits Radeon and Nvidia GPU
It fits most north bridges with thru hole mounting.

We also have a kit for the smaller 1" blocks to fit GPU or Chipset. I may cut mounts for socket 478/480 Dothan stuff at a later time.
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:18 PM   #5
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Very nice guide :thumbsup: Taking notes now

One thing though... What about filling CPU socket with grease or sealing around it? It will not be needed for FULL 100% LOAD, 24/7 operation - like crunching D2OL ???
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:23 PM   #6
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I have not used dielectric grease in years. As you can see, I have been working on forcing the seal tight and this we feel is ready enough for end users.

I can include dielectric grease, might be needed for high humidity areas and an added bit of protection in the socket cant hurt.
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:36 PM   #8
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Thats a nice guide Fugger. Very detailed and good images
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:42 PM   #9
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awesome guide!
does this system work for chilly1 blocks on totally unrelated systems (IE homebuilt but with a purchased chilly1 block)?
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:59 PM   #10
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Yes, this works with all Chilly1 blocks that have o-ring indent.
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Old 03-22-2005, 02:05 PM   #11
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wow thats pretty cool, nice pictures, theyll help out immensely
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Old 03-22-2005, 03:20 PM   #12
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I know you prolly can't but I'll ask anyway:

I prolly can't get a Chilly1 block over here in the Netherlands (I could but it would be difficult and shippingcosts will be very high) so could you please explain (maybe in a PM) how exactly you make this sealring?

Is it a lot of soft neoprene rolled up and taped together?

I do like this insulation a lot cleaner than the sealstring of the prometia/vapochill, but since I'm a home phase change builder I would like a cheap setup not with a expensive block.

If you can't tell I'll see if I can get some mates together and buy like a 30 Chilly1 blocks at once, with that much the shippingcosts would be worth it to send them here.
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Old 03-22-2005, 05:15 PM   #13
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Very nice guide Fugger! I am glad you made it a sticky too so that it will be easy to find when I need it here in a week or two. Actually, your guide makes it seem easier than I had originally thought.

My only question is that I noticed that in the one pic on the back of the mobo with that foam and orginial backplate it made it very think. Will that hinder the mobo from screwing into the standoff's inside a regular case?
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Old 03-22-2005, 05:17 PM   #14
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I send this with Seal tape. that is 1/8 inch thick for behind the mother boards.
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Old 03-22-2005, 05:24 PM   #15
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Sweet! theres more in the kit than i thought. Guess i'm dumb useing dielectric grease here in the desert lol.

Anyways. Nice writeup. Makes it very easy to understand how to do it and not ues dielectric grease.

(sorry i need posts lol) (and one of chilly!'s units to get more posts )

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Old 03-22-2005, 05:28 PM   #16
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Looks good, this is exactly what i hope to recieve when i send my unit back to you Chilly, all the foam and everything.

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Old 03-22-2005, 06:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilly1
I send this with Seal tape. that is 1/8 inch thick for behind the mother boards.
So, if I am putting the mobo back in a case rather than on a bench table I use the Seal tape rather than the backplate?
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:15 PM   #18
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Nice guide fugger! This will help alot of people and save alot of problem threads from developing.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:20 PM   #19
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Nerm, yes.

I would suggest two layers and use the original metal backplate that came with the mobo.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:27 PM   #20
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Thanks, fugger! Does it matter if the layers are crissed crossed or not? How much of the mobo should be layered with the seal tape? In my mind I am picturing like an inch wider than the stock backplate all the way around.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:32 PM   #21
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4x4 inch square no gap between tape, cross them if you want.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:34 PM   #22
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The hold down seems to be nudging slot1 of the ram. That anything to worry about?
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:39 PM   #23
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I am sure it can be trimmed.

I had no problem removing and reinstalling memory modules.
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Old 03-22-2005, 06:43 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bh2k
The hold down seems to be nudging slot1 of the ram. That anything to worry about?
mhm... it looks like very tight fit there... that side of the hold-down plate should be filed just a bit to make folks feel more comfortable about changin mem sticks
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Old 03-22-2005, 07:05 PM   #25
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So does this kit come with cascades made before this topic was created or will I need to purchase the stuff on my own? (I'm assuming that OPB would have sent any insulation/mounting hardware that came with the cascade in the first place)
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