Leaky D-Tek Fuzion V2 Fitting

[cesthree]

I've got myself a single loop installed in an HAF-932.

DD-CPX PRO>DTEK Fuzion V2>MCP320QP

I am using a T-Line. Installed inside the DD Delrin T is a silver KillCoil, and I only run distilled water. I am using 100% DD G1/4 Fat Boy fittings.

Here is a Google Album if you would like to see pics. BTW, I no longer have those Sapphire HD 4770's, rather a single GTX 285 that is awaiting it's SLI mate.

http://picasaweb.google.com/cestiii/...eat=directlink

I have really enjoyed this setup, it has kept my Q9550, and now my i7 860, comfortably cool in my overclocking adventures.

I have a small problem though. It seems that I have developed some seapage around the inlet fitting going into the V2. It's not enough that I have had to top-off the distilled water, but enough to make me worry about moisture around my CPU and possibly settling onto my GPU.




I am not sure if it is one of the following problems, and I ask for your experiences or suggestions in helping me solve this problem.

1. Could this leak be from the Fat Boy's threads not going as deep into the top of my waterblock? See how the threads engage further on the stock 1/2" fittings that came from D'Tek. (the top fitting is the DD, bottom is the stock D’Tek)



2. Could it be that the zip-ties are not tight enough? I haven't got any leaks anywhere else, but maybe that's where this small amount of leakage is coming from?

3. If I have disconnected the hose from a fitting, will it seal as well as it did the first time if I re-assemble it without snipping off a bit where the barb has made its impression?

I am going to reassemble this loop with some spring type clamps (shown in pic of fittings above) in hopes that it will fix my situation.

Well, if there isn't enough information let me know. I really appreciate any help or guidance you have to offer! Thanks!

[Onoff312]

Well it looks to me like the large oring is causing the problem maybe use two dteks or any other but fatboys.

[cesthree]

Well, that o-ring isn't sitting down in the fitting all the way. I do agree with you though, maybe it is the o-ring.

I was going to try the D'Tek fittings this time around, I just don't understand why the DD's have such short thread depth.

It seems to me that this fitting will have the most pressure. It's the first restriction after the pump.

I imagine that there will be some significant pressure drop across that block, so the inlet will have more pressure than just about any point in the system.

That's my theory and why I wanted to try the other fittings. I forgot to mention that. Not trying to claim your idea as mine.

I still appreciate your input, and hope to draw from any other experiences too.

Peace.

[ahmad]

Zipties looks like a good guess to me. Those hoses are thick!

How about using two zipties to reduce that possibility? One pointing upwards and the other in the opposite direction. If they are close enough it should create a perfect seal.

EDIT: looking at your zipties, doesn't look like you can fit two..

[cesthree]

If a hose is removed from a barb after having been on for awhile, and then reassembled, is it more likely to leak or seep than a "new" connection?

Those spring clamps seem to have quite a lot of force. I like them a lot better than the zip ties. I guess I could just change over to the D'Tek barbs on the CPU block, and put spring clamps everywhere.

I am probably going to end up doing that, then report back here with results. Wish me luck and thanks for your input.

[cesthree]

I ended up getting a Swiftech Apogee XT from Micro Center (Gift Card). I used the Fat Boy fittings on it with the o-rings from the Swiftech fittings.

I got everything back together today. It's been leak testing for about 5 hours. I am pissed though.

My stupid DD Acetal/Acrylic/Delrin whatever the f it is made of, T is leaking around the Fat Boy fittings ever so slightly. Exactly like the fittings on my DTek was above.

Why can't there be a fitting that is made to tighten down and not have the o-ring bulging out the sides? These Danger Den Fat Boy fittings are great on the barb end, but they suck on the o-ring end.

Well, actually the Fat Boy's have done fine in five places.

1. The DD CPX-PRO has never shown the slightest sign of leaking.
2. My Swiftech MCP320QP has never shown the slightest sign of leaking.
3. My old Swiftech MCW30 never showed the slightest sign of leaking.
4. The Danger Den fill port I am using on my T-Line has a Fat Boy. LOL.
5. Now that I changed the o-rings on the Apogee XT, it looks like it won't leak anymore.

Why, oh why, does that piece of junk Danger Den T have to leak now? The fittings, and the T, are made by Danger Den. Shouldn't they just work?

How is it that these parts are machined specifically for liquid cooling PC's, and there is ANY guesswork in the fittings, o-rings, and how they seal?

Sorry, I am just ranting. I am probably just going to pick up a Polypropylene Anti-Microbial Y fitting to replace it. So sick of these little leaks. Freaking dumb.

[Waterlogged]

I ended up getting a Swiftech Apogee XT from Micro Center (Gift Card). I used the Fat Boy fittings on it with the o-rings from the Swiftech fittings.

I got everything back together today. It's been leak testing for about 5 hours. I am pissed though.

My stupid DD Acetal/Acrylic/Delrin whatever the f it is made of, T is leaking around the Fat Boy fittings ever so slightly. Exactly like the fittings on my DTek was above.

Why can't there be a fitting that is made to tighten down and not have the o-ring bulging out the sides? These Danger Den Fat Boy fittings are great on the barb end, but they suck on the o-ring end.

Well, actually the Fat Boy's have done fine in five places.

1. The DD CPX-PRO has never shown the slightest sign of leaking.
2. My Swiftech MCP320QP has never shown the slightest sign of leaking.
3. My old Swiftech MCW30 never showed the slightest sign of leaking.
4. The Danger Den fill port I am using on my T-Line has a Fat Boy. LOL.
5. Now that I changed the o-rings on the Apogee XT, it looks like it won't leak anymore.

Why, oh why, does that piece of junk Danger Den T have to leak now? The fittings, and the T, are made by Danger Den. Shouldn't they just work?

How is it that these parts are machined specifically for liquid cooling PC's, and there is ANY guesswork in the fittings, o-rings, and how they seal?

Sorry, I am just ranting. I am probably just going to pick up a Polypropylene Anti-Microbial Y fitting to replace it. So sick of these little leaks. Freaking dumb.

DD fatboy fittings are made by Bitspower.

[Serpentarius]

remember PTFE tape?

[Waterlogged]

remember PTFE tape?

It should NEVER be used on BSPP or NPSM threads. The threads have nothing to do with sealing on the thread types I mentioned, it's all o-ring.

[Kurz]

The PTFE tape should only be used on fittings without a o-ring...

[Serpentarius]

well ... i used on both normally ... if the barb comes without the o-ring i simply purchased a fitting one
maybe it's just me ... whatever then

[cesthree]

Ok, can you answer why the o-ring bulges out? I know that you only have to finger tight, then 1/4 to 1/2 turn past that, but why does the o-ring bulge out?

It leaves too much grey area as to what is actually tight. When you put the hoses, clamps, and everything else just to find a leak, its not like you can easily tighten those fittings.

I just don't get it. You would think that the fitting's base should be flush with the manifold or block or whatever it is mounting to, so that you cannot see the o-ring at all.

[Waterlogged]

Honestly, on most current fittings, you shouldn't be able to see any of the o-ring at all when they are tightened down. They all pretty much have a recess that the o-ring should fit into, if it doesn't. . .something is really wrong.

[cesthree]

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadendet.html

I picked up one of these when I built my first loop. It should be compatible with the BP/DD Fat Boy fittings as far as I know.

I am thinking of replacing it with a Y-Fitting however, because it would allow my hoses to route slightly better.

Something like the following:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bishsiywitri.html

or

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/blny12idysp.html

I want the Bitspower because there is less restriction.

The o-ring doesn't stick out on my Swiftech Radiator, my DD CPX-PRO, or on my Swiftech Apogee XT. Actually, they don't really stick out much on the Acetal T, but it just sucks that it leaks like that. Like a seapage. I would prefer a full on leak instead of this little nagging seeping leak.

[cesthree]

Well it looks to me like the large oring is causing the problem maybe use two dteks or any other but fatboys.

I am pretty well 100% sure that the o-ring is to blame.

I have used these same fittings in my new Apogee XT block with the o-rings that the XT fittings came with. No leaks whatsoever.

My guess is that using the BP/FB o-rings only works with certain applications. Mine don't leak around the radiator or pump, but everywhere else they seep.

Oh, and I wanted to add that using a spring type clamp is the most awesome thing ever. I would never second guess them coming apart or leaking. WOW. Great stuff.

[cesthree]

Changed over to an Apogee XT water block. It has been working really well.

I still have a little known seapage from the T fitting to my T line. Its a DD Acetal/Delrin T. I have a BP Y connector to replace it, but I haven't found the time (until now) to replace the fitting.

Anyways, I was replacing the three Yate Loon medium fans in the top of my rig today, they pull air through my MCR320QP radiator out the top of my HAF 932, when I found the slightest bit of moisture accumulated on top of my radiator, between the fans and the mounting flanges of the radiator.

WTF!!!!!

Where could this come from?

Do you think that the seepage from my D'Tek Fuzion V2 could have accumulated at the top of the radiator like that? It was situated right beneath the radiator.

I don't think that the seepage from my T is nearly as much as was the D'Tek V2 fittings.

I hope that someone has some experience or insight with what might be happening here, because I haven't seen the slightest bit of moisture anywhere else, not any fitting, not the radiator, nothing.

I triple checked that the screws I received for my radiator and 120x25mm fans weren't too long, they definitely aren't puncturing the radiator anywhere. Besides, a leak like that I know I would see.

If I can't get this figured out, I'll probably just pick up a Corsair H50 or a decent air cooler. I love liquid cooling, already I miss my temps, but it just doesn't seem worth it to keep fiddle f@cking around with this $hit.

Thanks for any helps!