Cosmos S Closed loop worklog

[ewitte]

Pictures coming this weekend Never could find an XSPC RX360 in stock so went with swiftech. For the volts I use this setup is still overkill i7 4Ghz takes 1.2-1.225v. Most likely 24/7 will be 4.2Ghz 1.3 - 1.35v.

Parts Log Water
- EK Supreme LT using hold down plate from Coolermaster V8
- x2 EK High Flow G1/4 to 1/2
- Swiftech MCR320-Res
- x2 Swiftech Hgh Flow 1/4 BSPP to 1/2in. ID (res)
- Swiftech MCP655-B 12v DC
- Durelene PVC tubing 1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD (same company as Tygon)
- Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/16 in. to 25/32
- Petra'sTech PT_Nuke
- Ozarka Distilled water

Main System Parts
- Intel i7 920
- Asus p6t deluxe
- EVGA GTX 295
- OCZ 6GB DDR3 1333 7-7-7-20

Work Done so far
- Pulled out everything from the case
- Installed mounting for waterblock
- Put motherboard back in place
- Installed Radiator, CPU block and pump
- Setup tubing and pulled back out
- Installed hose clamps
- Put back in to test if the tubing needed adjustment
- Pulled back out

Bathroom leak testing
- Add water using Res port
- Close off res port
- Turn on pump using 18.5v laptop AC adapter
- Open res port
- top off fluid levels / close res port
- Shake radiator a bit
- Left water pumping for 10 hours
- Check fluid levels - good no top off needed
- Left water pumping 2 more hours / check for leaks
- No leaks. Sealed up Waterblock and Radiator barbs with marine goop
- Pump running another 18 hours until 3pm when I have time to install about 3pm today

3 levels of water proofing on the barbs (I'm paranoid)
- Plumbers tape on threads
- hose clamps (I always had the best luck with the metal type)
- marine goop (except for pump which has larger barbs than tubing)

Installation notes for this afternoon.

- DVD and rheostat moved down 1 slot to give room for radiator
- HDD Drive cage moved up two slots to give room for pump

- Pump will lay in the bottom. 1/4" Neopreme on the bottom + 1/4" on the sides to keep the pump from moving. I have tons of neopreme from last time when I did chilled liquid. Makes it easier to pull everything out to change the water.

- Radiator elevated slightly near the fillport for air collection.
- 3 or 6 fans on the radiator pulling cold air from the top
- 120mm fan on the bottom pushing out
- 120mm fan on drive cage pushing out
- 120mm fan back behind CPU pushing out
- 200mm side fan pulling cold air in

[Jhors2]

Pics??

[dealmaster]

I look forward to seeing this, I just finished my Cosmos S loop and it's such a great case for watercooling.

[mit78]

some pictures?

[Polizei]

You should not put plumber's tape on these barb threads... it's unnecessary and sometimes causes leaks.

[ewitte]

Pictures coming before the end of the day.

Quick tests not even complete and temps are about 20-30C lower than my Coolermaster V8!

[ewitte]

Working on case (how you know your working )


Leak testing


Power for pump


Closed Cell Neopreme bed for pump


Pump placed


Top fans


Installed / Running not organized

[ewitte]

This is me not being patient and wanting to run tests

[ewitte]

Added a single fan under the radiator and it seems to have helped quite a bit Can't be certain how much until Prime has ran at least an hour. Note to self to go get another 2 for under the radiator tomorrow from Frys.

EDIT looks like 4-5C for just that 1 fan.

[ewitte]

This is with the 1 extra fan and the AC set to 76F (about 2-3C cooler room temps). Temps before were over 80C for 3.8 and would throttle past 100C for these same settings at 4Ghz.

[ewitte]

Everything inside. Never was the neatest but not bad for having 2xSATA, 4xSSD, BluRay and 9 functional 120mm fans. With the case closed 4Ghz temps rarely go over 70C The same settings would hit 100C and throttle when I was on air.

[SoulsCollective]

Get some shorter screws for those bottom rad fans. The massive gap between the fans and the radiator won't be doing your airflow any good.

Also, the 120mm fan on the bottom should be the other way 'round - you want it sucking in cool air from underneath the case and blowing it straight up into the VGA.

Edit: Just noticed that you seem to have no T-line or reservoir. The problem with a closed loop like you have there is there's no way for bubbles to work their way out - as you can see in your coolant stream. You'll see temps drop at least a further 3-4 degrees by fully bleeding your loop - add in a T or something.

[ewitte]

I'm planning on getting some shorter screws for the top as well. The screw nuts I used to gap mean I can't close the top. The gap doesn't seem to hurt much because installing just 1 bottom fan with the gap did drop the temps 4-5C. I may just shroud the bottom.

The bottom fan thats the best I came up with when I was on air. You can't see it because the side is off but there is a 200mm side panel fan blowing on the video card/MB. Its enough that I didn't put that tiny chipset fan on at all and the temps are still fine.

I bled the air with the Res top in the Radiator for about 2 days. The intention was to not use a t-line or reservoir. There is a tiny amount of air that works its way back up to the reservoir top in less than 10 minutes after you turn the system on. You can tell when air hits the pump and it doesn't happen at all after the system has been on I'm not going to sweat it for 3-4C. Its still 30C+ lower than one of the top 5 air coolers

All in all I think I could make a few changes that could get me as much as 5-10C but temps are already really really good compared to where they were and no sense going over 4Ghz for 24/7 as BCLK seems to be my weakness not voltage or temperatures.