My water cooled GTX 280 story.

[Talonman]

My water cooled GTX 280 story. I posted bit's of this info in an old thread here, but wanted to re-post my results all together.

I stepped out of my 9800 GX2 SSC, and into a GTX 280. I currently have a single loop with two blocks cooling my system. I was consirned how my temps would be adding a 280 into the same loop.

My Cooler: The WaterKegIII Xtreme with ThermoChill PA120.3 RAD running with three 70.5 CFM Yate Loon's, and Laing D5 pump.



My two existing blocks: D-TEK FuZion CPU, and EK S-MAX Acetal for my NB. (D-TEK Quad nozzle and gasket installed in CPU block.)


My simple loop with the air cooled GX2 installed.



My PC next to the cooler:



My CPU temps that I enjoy with a Q6600 @ 3.8GHz, with my two block loop:

This is where my system's speed/temp's were currently at with my GX2 installed. For each FSB test, I first Primed successfully for 2 hours, then rebooted and waited for all disk activity to stop. I ran Vantage first, then 3DMark06 second. Each program only received 1 run, and data was recorded.

Chart data recorded:
FSB selected - What DDR2 Frequency will be required - How fast the BIOS reports when booting - How fast CPU-Z reports from Vista - Lowest voltage required to Prime 2hrs (BIOS setting) - Everest reported core voltage - CPU-Z reported core voltage - 3DMark06 score using default settings - 3DMark Vantage using default settings.
Note: The only thing OC'ed on my GX2 SSC was the fan!

FSB -- DDR2 ------- BIOS ------ CPU-Z -------- BIOS ------ Everest - CPU-Z --- 3DMark06 --- SM2.0 -- SM3.0 --- CPU ------ Vantage --- CPU --- Graphics
420 -- 840MHz -- 3.79GHz -- 3.7801GHz -- 1.51875v -- 1.50v -- 1.496v ---- 19,296 ----- 7,661 --- 9,062 --- 5,375 ----- P10,553 -- 13,167 -- 9,898

421 -- 842MHz -- 3.80GHz -- 3.7895GHz -- 1.51875v -- 1.50v -- 1.496v ---- 19,305 ----- 7,647 --- 9,078 --- 5,385 ----- P10,553 -- 13,164 -- 9,899

422 -- 844MHz -- 3.81GHz -- 3.7979GHz -- 1.51875v -- 1.50v -- 1.496v ---- 19,364 ----- 7,690 --- 9,113 --- 5,369 ----- P10,583 -- 13,281 -- 9,912

423 -- 846MHz -- 3.82GHz -- 3.8074GHz -- 1.53125v -- 1.51v -- 1.512v ---- 19,164 ----- 7,550 --- 9,042 --- 5,358 ----- P10,595 -- 13,441 -- 9,896

424 -- 848MHz -- 3.83GHz -- 3.8164GHz -- 1.53125v -- 1.51v -- 1.512v ---- 19,226 ----- 7,570 --- 9,047 --- 5,419 ----- P10,574 -- 13,254 -- 9,906

425 -- 850MHz -- 3.84GHz -- 3.8252GHz -- 1.53125v -- 1.51v -- 1.512v ---- 19,503 ----- 7,766 --- 9,141 --- 5,428 ----- P10,574 -- 13,262 -- 9,905

426 -- 852MHz -- 3.85GHz -- 3.8346GHz -- 1.53750v -- 1.53v -- 1.528v ---- 19,499 ----- 7,762 --- 9,123 --- 5,447 ----- P10,564 -- 13,232 -- 9,899

427 -- 854MHz -- 3.86GHz -- 3.8430GHz -- 1.53750v -- 1.52v -- 1.520v ---- 19,237 ----- 7,598 --- 9,015 --- 5,385 ----- P10,475 -- 13,515 -- 9,745

428 -- 856MHz -- 3.87GHz -- 3.8525GHz -- 1.53750v -- 1.52v -- 1.520v ---- 19,592 ----- 7,795 --- 9,185 --- 5,457 ----- P10,453 -- 13,486 -- 9,724

Currently with just my CPU and NB in my loop, my max temp's don't cross 60C two hours into Prime! Usually around 55C most of the time on all 4 cores. It only spikes to about 59C for a few seconds, even when I'm hitting my chip with 1.5v's.

My EVGA Hydro Copper 16 Waterblock, waiting for my 280... It came with the 3/8" and 1/2" fittings.

Note: With this block, the backplate helps to absorbe heat from the memory chips, and transfer it to the waterblock using the help of your TIM.
(TIM get's applied to that bar of copper on the backplate. The two holes in it are for securing it to the waterblock, thus aiding in heat transfer.)

Description:
Featuring a sleek-modern look and a full copper design, EVGA continues to incorporate only the best attributes that make up the Hydro Copper Waterblock Series. An extreme high flow path design with a unique, integrated pressure point allows the Hydro Copper 16 Waterblock to keep your GTX 280 or GTX 260 as cool as can be while under even the heaviest of graphical loads. Exclusive only to EVGA, patent pending -flow technology aids in dispersing heat from GTX 280 and GTX 260 graphics processing unit (GPU). EVGA also provides full coverage with the addition of a heat-piped back plate that links with the Hydro Copper 16 Waterblock using patent pending "Co-op" technology.

BTW: If you would like to see the inside of the block, look here: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/726/4/

It has tiny E's inside for EVGA!

Here is the official EVGA Hydro Copper 16 Waterblock install guide:
http://www.evga.com/products/pdf/200-CU-HC16-B1.pdf

My 280:









I figured I better just install her as is, to make sure she worked before I took it apart for the block installation.
She installed just fine...



How my air cooled 280 looks idle, with stock clock settings, and fan set to 75%. Room temp was 70.3F.



15 minutes of some smooth COD4!!
It ran my temp up to 64C.



One Vantage run using stock settings, just to see...

My cover is back on the PC, and I have moved my fan up to 100%.
I want to know the best the fan can do, before I go water cooled.
I'm trying to give it every advantage, to see how much my block can actually lower my temps beond the stock coolings ability.

I ran 3DMark06 at default settings, and kept Precision open taking a GPU temp reading after each test completed.

Temp after Return to Proxycon: 59C

Temp after Firefly Forest: 59C

Temp after CPU Test-1: 51C

Temp after CPU Test-2: 49C

Temp after Canyon Flight: 59C

Temp after Deep Freeze: 60C

Not too bad...

1 Hour of UT3, Max detail settings 1920x1200 and V-Sync on 57C.
I do have the UT3 PhysX Mod installed too.
62 FPS non-VSync mode.
60 FPS with VSync on.

For more testing I went after the big dog of heat generation, Crysis.
I set it up at 1920x1200, all high except Object Quality was Medium. (4xAA no V-sync)
With the fan set to 100%, and playing from the beginning for 1 hour, 70C was the max I could get GPU temp up to.

I was convinced my card was functioning within normal paramaters. (Time to mod it!)

Install went well:
Removed 2 black DVI bracet screws, 2 black rubber plugs, and 10 screws from the back. You have to pry off the heatsink:
This is what I found underneath.



I cleaned off the memory chips:



We now remove the heatsink, from the GPU.



Cleaned it up.



I put some MX-2 on, and I know, most like to just put a dot...
I can't help myself, I had to distribute it on the face of the chips too!!
I am a fan of direct human intervention, to insure 100% coverage, with the TIM being evenly distributed in a thin layer. (Especially considering the size of the GPU!)
You attach the block with the provided mounting bolts, insuring you line it up correctly when it contacts the card. You want your TIM to contact the raised spots on the block.



For the memory chips, and under side of GPU, I used the supplied thermal pads:



Attached the backplate: TIM is applied where the 2 bolts join backplate to block, near the barbs.



I did use the 1/2" barbs, and set mine up like the example in the lower right corner of the page.
As you look at the barbs in the block, OUT should on the Left hand side, and IN on the Right. Having the barbs pointing up or down makes no difference.


or, Out is E, In is A.



Added er into the loop!



How she looks idle, on water. (NOTE: Room temp rose from 70.3F to 71.6F)

Looks like at idle:
CPU Core 1 through 4 are all checking in at 1C higher. No big deal...

NB had no change... (I have always liked this NB block.)

SB is also reading 1C higher... (And not in the loop.)

GPU was reading 38C, and now is 34C. My 280's idle temp is now (4C cooler).

On to load testing!

3DMark06 on water...
I kept Precision's on screen display active, and watched the screen like a hawk recording the highest temp it reached during each test.

3DMark06 was run at the default settings:

Temp during Return to Proxycon: 43C (16C cooler!)

Temp during Firefly Forest: 44C (15C cooler!)

Temp during CPU Test-1: 39C (12C cooler!)

Temp during CPU Test-2: 39C (10C cooler!)

Temp during Canyon Flight: 44C (15C cooler!)

Temp during Deep Freeze: 44C (16C cooler!)


My new MAX GPU temp for UT3 with the same settings is 44C. That's 13C lower, than what I had on the stock cooling.

Using the same settings I had on the air test, fired Crysis up again. 48C looks to be about the most heat Crysis will now produce!!
This is right after exiting the game, and the highest GPU temp I have been able to generate since the install:

That's a mighty 22C lower than my air test playing Crysis.

I have to say that I am Impressed getting up to 22C cooler temps, with no fan noise under load!! I had to run the fan at 100% to generate my first set of numbers.

I am thinking that keeping my loaded temps below 50C means I'm doing pritty good.

30 minutes of Prime let me hit a high temp of 60C.

Before the block install 59C was my max on the same test...

To be honest though, my CPU did normally hover at about 54C Priming. Now it hovers at 59 or 60C. My max temp may be showing only 1C higher so far, but my 'Normal Prime Operating Temp' went up about 5C. Adding the 280's block into the loop didn't come for free as far as the CPU is consirned.

Also note that my 280 is now showing an idle temp of 40C insted of the 34C I see when not Priming. Having all 4 cores at 100% is dumping some extra heat into my loop.
I guess I can roll with that!!

OC results:
I used Precision's on screen display, and recorded the highest temp I could hit during each test of Vantage.
Even if the temp only displayed for a micro-jiffie, it was recorded if it was a new high.
I kept upping my clock settings, to see how it would change my load temps.

Vantage was run using the default settings:

280 Set To: --- Stock --- SC ------- SSC ---- FTW ----- HC
___________ Speed _ Speed _ Speed _ Speed _ Speed
Jane Nash ----- 44C ---- 45C ----- 46C ---- 46C ----- 47C

New Calico ---- 44C ---- 46C ----- 46C ---- 47C ----- 47C

Airplanes1 ----- 39C ---- 40C ----- 41C ---- 41C ----- 41C

Airplanes2 ----- 42C ---- 42C ----- 43C ---- 43C ----- 43C

Colors1 -------- 44C ---- 45C ----- 45C ---- 46C ----- 46C

Colors2 -------- 43C ---- 44C ----- 44C ---- 45C ----- 45C

Mountains ----- 45C ---- 46C ----- 47C ---- 47C ----- 47C

Flags ------------ 42C --- 42C ----- 43C ---- 43C ----- 43C

Dots ------------ 42C ---- 43C ----- 43C ---- 43C ----- 44C

Fog ------------- 46C ---- 47C ----- 47C ---- 47C ----- 48C

Stock 280 scored= P12178 (602/2214)

280 to SC speed scored = P12567 (621/2268)

280 to SSC speed scored = P13013 (648/2322)

280 to FTW speed scored = P13586 (670/2430)

280 to HC speed scored = P13878 (691/2430)

I haven't noticed any screen artifacts so far...
My 280's Vantage score set to HC speed:



Still running at HC speed, I ran 3DMark06.
45C was the highest temp it could generate on my GPU during the entire run. Most of the time it was running around 40C.



I decided to run Core=702MHz, Shaders=1512MHz, and Memory=1269MHz on my 280.
Still no artifacts, and Vantage is still not taking my GPU temp above 48C.
My new clock settings gives me a 14K score in Vantage.


Once again, what my 280 scored using the default clock speeds:

A difference of 1,823 Vantage Points!
Ya gotta love the OC!

I love the block. Understand too that keeping your 280 below 50C is not this blocks performance limit. One of the boys at the EVGA site is keeping his OC'ed 280's load temp below 40C. He's running in the 30's under load, but dosen't have a CPU in the same loop. Keeping a OC'ed 280 below 50C is just my 3 block, 1 loop limit. Well, it is for now until my cold a$$ basement returnes to about 59F come winter! (Snicker...)
The RAD is really going to love it this year.

Another thing I noticed was when re-filling my loop, my flow still seemed plenty strong jetting water through the lines. I was consirned about having enouigh flow for the 3 blocks. I now think it's a non-issue...

If the question is asked if you can cool an over-clocked Q6600, a 280, and a NB all on a Thermochill PA 120.3, my answer would be YES...

It might also be said that as expected, the full cover block shines under load, rather than just at idle on temperature reduction.
The 4C cooler temp at idle is nice, but the 22C less under load stands out to me as more valuable to the OC'er...

NOTE: Crysis was much hotter on air than on water. I think this is a direct result of that huge slab of Hydro Copper. It flat out handles heat better, and like mine for example, HATES to go over 48C.
Crysis on the stock cooling with fan set to 100% took me to 70C.

It is also my opinion that even though when OC'ing from stock speed, to HC speed, I only had a 2 to 3C change in load temp, I don't believe using the stock sink/fan cooling, would produce the same result.
I would expect the same OC on the stock cooling, would raise your max temp higher than it did on the water rig. If you are running the stock cooling, you probably wouldn't get the same tiny 2 to 3C change in load temp, if you OC from stock to HC speed.

For trivia: My TJ09 has (5) 120mm Scythe S-FLEX Case Fans, a Corsair CMXAF1 ram cooler, a 60MM fan on top of that pointing at my coils, and (1) 120mm Silverstone fan that came in my case, suspended from my GPU's power cables, pointing directly up at my SB. My Ohio basement was also 70F.
All of that to let you know that my case get's good cool air flow. The stock cooling had allot of things going it's way.

I just wouldn't want to NOT give the block it's due credit, when it comes to reducing your loaded temps. That is after all, it's specialty.

I am ok with this setup and my 1 loop. I think it should keep me out of trouble...
The stock fan can't run with this sucker!


I went back after generating more heat on my system... (I heard about FurMark!) (The GPU Killer...)

I tried FurMark to see if I could run my temps up any higher, Current basement temp is 71.2F.
First I ran the two Benchmarking tests, Time Based, and Frame Based.
Using Precision's OSD recorded my temps.
Options: I checked the Fullscreen box, and selected 1920x1200.
Both the Time Based and Frame Based ran my temps up to 49C. (Still darn good I think..)


Next, I went after the Stability test set at 1920x1200, Fullscreen, and 2xMSAA Samples.
From close to the beginning, to 134 sec= 50C
135 to 230 sec= 51C
231 to 331 sec= 52C
332 to 500 sec= 53C

53C is my new highest GPU temp that I have hit on water...

I decided to run Prime95 and FurMark together...
This should give me a better idea of the highest temps I can hit on my system...
My room is currently 75.5F, due to the wife wanting the wood burner fired up today.

This test was 10 minutes of Prime, with 280 set to stock speed, and the new version of Furmark to load up the GPU.


Just over 10 minutes of Prime95 and FurMark together, with my 280 OC'ed @ Core=734, Shaders=1512, and Memory=1242...

Both the CPU's and GPU's max temp rose by 2C, with the 280 OC'ed.
This is a new all time high temp for my system on both CPU (66C), and GPU (55C)!
NOTE: It does take Prime and FurMark running together to do it...

I also think Nvidia's drivers are getting better all the time. I don't have many issues on the games I play. I am adicted to Dead Space right now... Good game!

With my system set to: Processor: Q6600 @ 3.780GHz, OS: Vista Ultimate 64, GPU: (1) 280 @ C=734 SH=1512 M=1242
Driver: 177.83 PhysX: 8.09.04


I installed 178.13, and kept all other system settings exactly the same...


I installed 178.15, and kept all other system settings exactly the same...

This is where I knew I could now hit 15K in Vantage...
I did bump my CPU up a bit to 3.816GHz, and installed a 180 BETA driver.

Q6600@3.816GHz and single 280@ Core=734, Shaders=1512, and Memory=1242 Driver 180.42, PhysX version 8.10.13


I installed the official 180.48 drivers, and kept all other system settings exactly the same...


I installed the 180.60 BETA driver, and kept all other system settings exactly the same...

Still darn fast drivers, and look better. Good job Nvidia!
Remembering that P12266 was the score of my 280 at stock speed, along with driver 177.39, it's hard not to be happy.
My Vantage score is running around 3K higher now due to OC and driver improvements...

NOTE: I did go back to 180.48 due to Dead Space, and GRID having odd screen flashes.

I love Water Cooling!! Silent and deadly. I feel that it has served me well.

[T_Flight]

A Furmark Temp of 55 at those clocks is excellent. I can't wait to see what mine does once i get the loop for it. It wuill be awhile though. I'm starting out witha CPU only loop, and will be going with a separate loop for my card later.

Nice job! Those are some serious clocks.

[Talonman]

Thanks!!

[b@llz0r]

nice read... thanx for posting

[BDW88]

excellent read!

[Talonman]

Glad you guy's enjoyed the post.

[alacheesu]

Well explained, informative and exceptionally thorough. Thanks for taking the time and effort. I enjoyed reading it.

[Bobly]

Holy crap that's a nice EVGA card
Personally mine starts to artifact when I got over 666 if it's warm in the house, sometimes 666 will artifact too so I drop t 663 which has always been stable for me.
Have you tried Atitool? I don't use it to overclock but simple for it's stress generation and artifact detecting

[Talonman]

Thanks! I do love my 280 too... It is a runner!

ATI Tool reports no errors, and I visually see no artifacting with my 280's 734/1512/1242 OC.

I ran Prime and ATI Tool together, with my 280 OC'ed with the above clock speeds.
CPU maxed out at 58C, and GPU maxed out at 41C running for 8 minutes...
ATI Tool does generate much less heat than FurMark for sure.

I really don't think any game is going to get me in trouble on temps...
I have to believe running Prime and FurMark at the same time, generates more heat than any game known to man.

[Chruschef]

I really like how EVGA included cooling the back of the card into the full cover block via heatpipes. I haven't seen any other full covers accomplish this, or I haven't noticed it.

[DarthBeavis]

Bud you should get rid of those worm drives and use all compression fittings . . .if you used 3/8 tubing you will probably get a better bend radius with similar performance . . .nice test results tho . . .I need to do good detailed testing on TRI-SLI and post it . . .haven't done serious over-clocking in a year or so tho . . .too busy building

[Talonman]

I really like how EVGA included cooling the back of the card into the full cover block via heatpipes. I haven't seen any other full covers accomplish this, or I haven't noticed it.

I also think the EVGA backplate helps, and also love that it connects directly to the block. It just has to help to keep your RAM cooler...

BTW - I am a backplate fan for all blocks too, not just for the GPU. I am convinced that they help to give you better chip to block contact, and also aid in preventing your mobo from bending...

I drilled out the NB backplate that came stock on the Maximus, so I could use it with my EK block. It worked out well.


Just for the record, the NB backplate did have that protective liner in there, to insure you wouldn't short out any contact points, on the back of your mobo.


The Pro-Mount Kit for the CPU block had a backplate too...


That's probably part of the reason why I am a fan of the EVGA full cover block for the 280. Backplates RULE.

[Talonman]

Bud you should get rid of those worm drives and use all compression fittings . . .if you used 3/8 tubing you will probably get a better bend radius with similar performance . . .nice test results tho . . .I need to do good detailed testing on TRI-SLI and post it . . .haven't done serious over-clocking in a year or so tho . . .too busy building

I would like to see what temps you can get on your GPU's with your TRI-SLI Rig!

What will your RAD config be like on that system?

[DarthBeavis]

I would like to see what temps you can get on your GPU's with your TRI-SLI Rig!

What will your RAD config be like on that system?

Two Feser 480s and one Feser 360. Medium Yate Loons in push/pull

Its the one with the Skull on top:
http://www.dangerden.com/images/stor...pdxlan-125.wmv

[Talonman]

Sweet!!

Thanks for the link!

[Talonman]

I took another run at looking for my MAX OC on my water cooled 280.

My new MAX Core is 756. I can't cross that line due to my MAX Shader OC, and Nvidia's Core to Shader ratio rule. If I could up my shaders a bit more error free, it would allow me to up my Core further.

My re-verified MAX Shader is still 1512. If I set it to 1566, ATI Tool starts ringing like a bell, and artifacting real bad. 1512 runs error free all the time. (No way to misunderstand what my 280 is telling me here!)

Memory I still am playing with, but I do know I can run at 1296 with no issues. I still am not really sure how much I should go for here, or if the 280 needs the extra bandwidth provided from the OC.

Here are my current settings that I am having great success with.
280 set to Core=756, Shaders=1512, and Memory=1296.

Not too shabby for your run of the mill vanilla 280!
I'm sure the water block helps keeping the card cool too.

[T_Flight]

I am soooooo impresssed with these temps at these extremely high clocks. These things are tailor made for water cooling. I'd say for gaming with the power the 280 has to cut back to a best performance to temp ratio because the power probably isn't needed, but for benchmarking these clocks will truly shine.

These things rock. I've been playing with mine alot the last couple of days, and there is no doubt that you cannot get the full potential from these cards without going to water cooling. They have alot in them, but you get into a situation where the temps just run away with stock cooling even at 100% fan. It just can't keep up.

[Talonman]

They do shine running cool!

I like this review, and how they think about the 280.
They used a 180 Driver too.
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=1403
"We've got to tell you that there's a certain feeling that you get when you hold these monsters in your hand that's almost indescribable. Knowing that you are holding the fastest, most powerful single GPU video card in the world in your hand; with it straining to get into a machine and drive graphics like you've never seen before".

A 280 is a beast.
Note that their 280 was only hitting 13258 in Vantage, when used in the benchmarks.

[T_Flight]

Oh I've seen them. I had a copy of CoH I loaded up just to max all the settings and find that even with the system test it just doesn't push it. AFter running a 6800GT for many years, I am absolutely stunned at what they have done with these things. They will almost make you duck at the gunfire it's so real.

I'm gonna try Fallout 3...maybe after Christmas. That has nearly every detail and quality effect you could find.

[Talonman]

That should be a good game to test the 280 out on.

[Talonman]

Check this out...
It's a review of some various air cooling options for the 280.

http://www.pcgameshardware.com/aid,6...=670040&page=4
They ran 3DMark03 at 1600 x 1200, 4xAA/16:1AF, and recorded max temp for 5 loops of the Mother Nature test.

The lowest GPU temp recorded out of all the air options was 63C, and the highest was 90C.

For VRM the lowest was 82C, and the highest was an alarming 134C.


I don't have Riva Tuner installed, so I can't speak to how my VRM temp's are. My guess is i'm golden.
As far as GPU temp goes, I ran the test and maxed out at a cool 46C.
That's with my 280 still set to Core=756, Shaders=1512, and Memory=1296.
I have played quite a few games now at that speed, none have rebooted my system due to GPU being clocked too high.
Things are still looking good with my OC.

Note the the conclusion of the review...
"Neither the Thermalright HR-03 nor the Silenx Noiseless GPU Cooler is able to keep the overclcoked GTX 280 at stable temperatures in an open test setup - without additional ventilation. Distortions because of overheated voltage converters are common. Furthermore the assembly of both coolers and especially the fans can be quite fiddly and they require a lot of space in the case. But if you can life with those restrictions nothing speaks against replacing the stock cooler - especially your ears will be grateful".

With water cooling, it's nice to know your not flirting with the temps that could cause your 280 to become unstable. The 'no fan noise' is a big bonus too.

[mikeyakame]

On my 280 with the standard cooler I can bench it upto 730 / 1566 / 1350. If I push core above 730, 1566 shader sends it artifacting like crazy. To use any higher you need to volt mod it. There is very little to gain besides the extra heat dump. The most you can push if you have a gem of a card is 1620mhz shader and 760 or so core. Memory is very dependent on how good your cards IC's are. Early 280s have very high binned Hynix ICs are easily push 1330-1375mhz memory. Later ones might not be so tolerant of high frequencies since Hynix introduced a 1300mhz bin a month or so after the 280 was released. If you want to use higher shader which gives better Vantage results, lower the core down to around 730-740.

Just for reference in Vantage my best at 730/1566/1350 is 15913 on 180.84, so you should be able to push somewhere around there. I run it normally at 670/1458/1300 flashed in bios, so 1300mhz memory shouldnt be too much of a problem.

Hope this helps!

I've modified an XFX bios version 62.00.1C.00.86 which is probably the latest or one of, which uses slightly looser memory timings on timing set 0/2 to accomodate for the higher memory frequency I push (setup according to Hynix GDDR3 datasheet for N3C bin (1300MHz 0.77ns). If you are interested, just shoot me a message and I'll be happy to send it your way.

I'm very tempted to go the watercooling way soon as I grab a 2nd 280 for SLI in a couple of months!

Your setup looks shmick

[Wolf132]

Heres my lovely GTX 260. Didn't try much higher yet, but no artifacts in anything I test it on.

[Talonman]

Thanks for the info, and the posts!!

[Talonman]

Check this out...
It's a review of some various air cooling options for the 280.

http://www.pcgameshardware.com/aid,6...=670040&page=4
They ran 3DMark03 at 1600 x 1200, 4xAA/16:1AF, and recorded max temp for 5 loops of the Mother Nature test.

The lowest GPU temp recorded out of all the air options was 63C, and the highest was 90C.

For VRM the lowest was 82C, and the highest was an alarming 134C.

I don't have Riva Tuner installed, so I can't speak to how my VRM temp's are. My guess is i'm golden.
As far as GPU temp goes, I ran the test and maxed out at a cool 46C.
That's with my 280 still set to Core=756, Shaders=1512, and Memory=1296.

Everest does report VRM temp on my 280, and it's easy to spot too.


41C looks good to me!

That makes me think the EVGA heat-piped back plate, that links with the Hydro Copper 16 Waterblock is doing a good job...
In the above review with the various air cooling options, the lowest VRM temp recorded was 82C.
Heck, I'm 41C under that with Furmark running.