Fuzion CPU middle to Top Block gap

[Martinm210]

FYI

Doing some CPU block testing so, I've had my fuzion sitting here on my work bench. I started looking more closely at the match between the middle and top derlin blocks to try a more agressive bow and I think I see a big part of why bowing helps so much on the Fuzion (It stops an internal leak).

There is a rather large gap between the middle and top block. Try putting the two blocks together, block the outlet of the middle block center tube and try to blow through the block, mine leaks like a sieve.

My first bow try was after creating a nozzle and I made about a 1/32" plastic washer. To my suprise if I remove the outer gasket to check clearances that thin washer barely even closes the gap that's there. I ended up gaining almost 3C improvement simply by using this very thin gasket which didn't bow it very much, I think alot of that gain is simply by sealing and preventing the inlet water from bypassing the base

This is how the mid block looks with a straightedge across the top (almost a 1mm gap).


And this is the thin washer I made, but any sort of thin o-ring or gasket material cut to fit would help alot with this.


Update: The proof is in the "Play-Doh"... Right at 1.0mm of gap remaining after assembling the block:


Update2: 1/16" O-Ring and the bow that you get:

Straightedge with O-ring:

[Ad1tya]

Wow...

Ill definately try this out, next time I take my loop apart!....

Thanks for the info mate!

[Sparky]

Nice find! I wondered about that section because of no gasket or seal but just assumed it fit together tight enough to seal off. Guess I was wrong! I may have to do this when I do a proper flush of my loop.

Did you inform Dtek?

[m3nf]

Nice one, will also try when i upgrade my CPU, cheers.

[Martinm210]

Thanks. I also assumed it just fit tightly together, and maybe mine is slightly odd. Let me know if you guys see the same thing.

I would have never noticed until I made the thin washer, took out the perimeter washer and tried a dry fit out. I expected the washer to make it rock heavily on the center column, but suprisingly it did very little. That's when I started using the straight edge to compare. The top block seems to have a flush center to outside extension, but the middle block is off as you can see. The middle block does seem to have a very slight bow to it, which may be from the washer being there a while, but it's still fairly flat on the bottom, but the top has this gap on the center.

I suppose you could even cut a small groove in there for a larger o-ring to fit nicely.

Anyhow, my gain was probably more pronounced because of the nozzle creating all the extra resistance, but I would think you'll see some improvement regardless.

I have not contacted D-tek, this is probably just a small tolerance they built into the block to ensure the perimeter seal gets fully compressed. Anyhow, just curious if you guys are seeing the same thing, try that seal test next time you take the block apart. Cover the hole with one finger and blow through it...that little washer makes a huge difference on mine.

[dr4gon]

Very nice review/guide again!!

... I don't know how you find these things :p

[Sparky]

So I'm thinking fuzion nozzle + gap filler = few C drop

OK I want those nozzles, NOW

[nikhsub1]

LOL, this is why i used the oring in the first place when i did this 5 months ago. It was to stop leakage not to bow. Would be neat to see something that would stop leakage but not alter the base at all and see what happens... like a neoprene gasket or something.

[nealh]

FYI

Doing some CPU block testing so, I've had my fuzion sitting here on my work bench. I started looking more closely at the match between the middle and top derlin blocks to try a more agressive bow and I think I see a big part of why bowing helps so much on the Fuzion (It stops an internal leak).

There is a rather large gap between the middle and top block. Try putting the two blocks together, block the outlet of the middle block center tube and try to blow through the block, mine leaks like a sieve.

My first bow try was after creating a nozzle and I made about a 1/32" plastic washer. To my suprise if I remove the outer gasket to check clearances that thin washer barely even closes the gap that's there. I ended up gaining almost 3C improvement simply by using this very thin gasket which didn't bow it very much, I think alot of that gain is simply by sealing and preventing the inlet water from bypassing the base

This is how the mid block looks with a straightedge across the top (almost a 1mm gap).


And this is the thin washer I made, but any sort of thin o-ring or gasket material cut to fit would help alot with this.

what is that washer material?

[Waterlogged]

I'll be looking to seal that gap with no bow and no nozzles when I get to building my E6300 gaming rig.

Thanks for confirming I don't have bad eyesight Martinm210.

[annaconda]

Nice find.

[leo_bsb]

wow!
I'll add an oring right away I get my hands on my block.

[Martinm210]

LOL, this is why i used the oring in the first place when i did this 5 months ago. It was to stop leakage not to bow. Would be neat to see something that would stop leakage but not alter the base at all and see what happens... like a neoprene gasket or something.

Yeah a nice soft neoprene gasket would do well to just seal. You could also probably run a thin bead of silicone if you were careful, but you'd have to redo it every time you pull it apart.

[Martinm210]

what is that washer material?

It's just plastic that was sanded down.

[nealh]

It's just plastic that was sanded down.

thanks

what did you use that had an essential perfect diameter

[nikhsub1]

The funny part, the enzo block has an oring groove right there, so there is no leakage. First thing I said to Danny when I got the block was WTF is there no o-ring there?

[Sparky]

Something enzo noticed and dtek didn't I suppose? Though how you'd miss that I don't know, it struck me the first time I opened the block hmm how is that not gonna leak (though I didn't realize it was that far off).

[nealh]

The funny part, the enzo block has an oring groove right there, so there is no leakage. First thing I said to Danny when I got the block was WTF is there no o-ring there?

seems like they need to sell a nozzle kit with a gasket or flat disc to fill-in the gap

I would pay in a heart beat....

Danny are you listening....please

[carholmes]

I just fitted the gap of my fuzion with a DD barb O-ring and that works fine and fits perfectly. There is no air leakage anymore and it only made a slight bow. The only problem is that I can't really test it since I still have to buy a few more things to put together my first loop. So can anyone confirm that using a barb O-ring will work?

[dr4gon]

I just fitted the gap of my fuzion with a DD barb O-ring and that works fine and fits perfectly. There is no air leakage anymore and it only made a slight bow. The only problem is that I can't really test it since I still have to buy a few more things to put together my first loop. So can anyone confirm that using a barb O-ring will work?

That's a good idea and I have one extra. Martin should be able to tell you. But it soudns to me if it creates a bow, it's sealing git up pretty well .... and thus should be fine

[pH(x)]

Will do, this gives me a reason to pry open my FuZion block before it goes into the leak-testing loop. And get out those errant shavings of Delrin from the inside of the "out" and "in" nozzles. Hopefully this will improve my temps combined with the PTS Top MCP350.

[Waterlogged]

Maybe I'm wrong but, wouldn't nozzles kind of bypass the gap making it a non-issue?

[Martinm210]

thanks

what did you use that had an essential perfect diameter

My plastic was just a sheet, and I used a special drill (Tiny center spade and outside edge cutter) bit to cut out the ID hole and scissors to cut around the outside.

[Martinm210]

That's a good idea and I have one extra. Martin should be able to tell you. But it soudns to me if it creates a bow, it's sealing git up pretty well .... and thus should be fine

Yeah the barb o-ring should be more than up to the job of sealing, but they might be a little aggressive on the bowing side. I have no idea how much bow can be too much, but I was just working my way up in small increments. I know they have varied o-ring thicknesses, so I was going to stop by my local home improvement store that has a big o-ring bin and do some shopping.

[Martinm210]

Maybe I'm wrong but, wouldn't nozzles kind of bypass the gap making it a non-issue?

I'm not sure what the D-tek nozzles are like, but my own custom one just sit down inside the middle block leaving the gap right there still in the way. But I suppose if a nozzle was long enough...it could help with the leak.

I do wonder if this changes pressure drop of the block. It should increase it some for the good of better temps, but I'm not sure how much.