TR Ultra 120 eXtreme SoboL mod

[sobol]

Hi there folks.

I've read quite a few HS'es reviews. In all of them TR 120 Ultra Extreme seemed to be the best.

I was very excited when I've received it. Expecting for really low temperatures.
Disappointment came when I realized that the efficiency is equal to my current Arctic Cooling cooler.
I've also noticed that the mounting was very loose.

Then I've tried njkid32's Easy Mod ( big thanks !) with washers and coin.
This helped but only a bit( it was still wiggling ).
At least I knew what's wrong. Following the idea I've done my own mod.

[sobol]

Material used is old mouse pad




Instead of original screw I've used longer one( around 1cm ).


Then I've cut out three pieces of mouse pad(matching size of the HS bottom base)
And glued them all together.



Then I've made hole exactly in the middle of pad ( using marker and ruler drawing line from each corner )



I've figured out that washer in base is required so the screw isn't going to deep.




Then I've screwed bracket together with pad.



Time to apply some AS5. I use only tiny traces all around CPU and slightly bigger drop just one the middle.




Time to mount everything. If you made hole exactly in the middle of pad then the head of screw should land in the hole.
That will guarantee equal pressure on all sides.

Result - its very difficult to move HS at all, no wiggling.
Temperature has dropped 8C comparing to stock.

[BenchZowner]

If your CPU's IHS is flat you'll get much better temps after lapping the heatsink.

[Okda]

u got the same results as u AC's on the Quad in ur sig

that si weird

[PhilDoc]

No offense to anyone, but honestly guys, you don't have to go through all of this. Just change the mounting screws. That'll give you a very tight fit everytime.

[sobol]

No offense to anyone, but honestly guys, you don't have to go through all of this. Just change the mounting screws. That'll give you a very tight fit everytime.

My mounting screws was already very tight and under pressure but it was the X mounting that didn't give any pressure on the middle.

By they way, maybe screws can help to somebody, but you have to find/buy them, while mouse people would have mouse pad.

[PhilDoc]

Didn't you have to remove something from the motherboard to mount the ultra-120. Take the screws that that. you don't have to buy anything. Just a thought

[sobol]

Didn't you have to remove something from the motherboard to mount the ultra-120. Take the screws that that. you don't have to buy anything. Just a thought

Sorry I don't get it ? remove what ?

[PhilDoc]

Dont Intel boards come with a bracket for the stock heat sink? Usually, that has to be removed. Many times that has scews that will fit.


Actually, just looked at an Asus board and it looks like it doesn't, bummer for Intel people. They make it so much easier to get a tight fit with the Ultra. I would still get some screws, #4s should work or use a longer screw in the retension plate (the screw that holds it together). If you can't do that, you're stuck with the washers or what you do. Yours will probably compress over time and as you said, the washers still wont give a real tight fit (tried it with 3 washers). To bad.

[Istasi]

It looks like you put waaaay too much TIM from that pic. You only need a dab in the middle or a line across the center.

[Okda]

yup too mcuh TIM and i am sure those bad results are due to the concave IHS of the cpu

[pie_uk]

so people spend quite a bit on this cooler and it dosnt even fit the processor "snuggly" ?

[PhilDoc]

Mine fit reasonably well until I lapped it, but to answer your question that's true. Thermalright made the screws too long or not enough thread, however you want to look at it. Even with a somewhat loose fit, the temps are quite good, they are better after you tighten it down.

[sobol]

It looks like you put waaaay too much TIM from that pic. You only need a dab in the middle or a line across the center.

I know the line across and dab method. I've seen the whole threads about them. Actually I've get better result with method on my photo. It looks like there is massive amount of paste because photo is not too sharp but those dots/traces are very very very very tiny, almost not there. I'll make another photo for you guys in day or two.

When I'm removing HS the paste is always equally spread across CPU. Also the layer is thin.

[evoic]

Flat is key - not tight.

For what it's worth, I like the effort that you put into making your mount perfectly the way you wanted it to be.
I'd be more than happy to use mine that way, but I did the washer mount version instead.

As for the flatness, no matter how tight you make it - a concave IHS or heatsink is going to make your mods irrelevant.

Take a razor blade and lay it across the surface to check the flatness of the CPU and the flatness of the heatsink.

If either it not perfectly flat, allowing no light under the blade......get to lapping.

[Jodiuh]

That's the funniest application of TIM I've seen in awhile. The shotgun approach?

[sobol]

Well I'm in trouble now. I've done 6h lapping job to HS. The temperature raised up. They used to be 68,68,66,66 with 1.45v @3.6ghz while now I can't even get that stable and on 1.40v@3.4 my temps are 78,78,69,69.

I can't really tell what is wrong. I'm sure that TR's mounting is very tight ( with my mod). Amount of AS5 is right ( used my own method again, but this time even less compound. After taking HS off sometimes TIM is equally spread up sometimes not ( I've remounted everything 4 times since lapping).

[PhilDoc]

Maybe your mount is uneven, only making good contact with one side of the heatsink.

[sobol]

Maybe your mount is uneven, only making good contact with one side of the heatsink.

I've tried to put HS base exactly on the middle to match cpu HS.
About good contact, I think that mod is guaranteeing it ( look on the photos in the second post ).

I think that my TR's HS base was convex( after lapping it's flat ) and the CPU's HS is concave and this a reason. I will do several tests and if that version is true then I'll lap the CPU.

[it_burns_when_i_pee]

i answered in your other post but just had a thought

the reason they say to put a blob and squash the heatsink down and rotate is to elimate air being trapped. if you "smoosh" the paste all over like you have in the above pic then you have greater uneven surface meeting a flat surface, resulting in air pockets.

when its a blob and you squish n rotate you flatten it outwards minising the chance of trapped air. as i said in the other post, touch your heatsink - if its cool or warm and the cpu is reporting those temps then you have a contact issue.

im looking to upgrade from my 4x piped ultra to the 6x piped extreme but are too concerned about the mounting people go on about. im wanting the extra cooling as my idle temps have shot up 10 degrees since my overclock

[it_burns_when_i_pee]

also, are you using the macro function on your camera for close up shots? its the symbol like a flower or outlike of a person

[sobol]

My camera's battery was flat and I had to use my phone's camera. That's a reason for bad quality.

also, are you using the macro function on your camera for close up shots? its the symbol like a flower or outlike of a person

[sobol]

Few things to explain. I tried both methods of blob and line TIM appliances, thing is I can't rotate the HS while it's on CPU even when the screws are not on because there are mobo components blocking me from doing it.

While doing it my way I'm sure that there is a compound on whole of the CPU hs and I can still do small rotate movements with TR's HS base to ensure that air is not trapped.

i answered in your other post but just had a thought

the reason they say to put a blob and squash the heatsink down and rotate is to elimate air being trapped. if you "smoosh" the paste all over like you have in the above pic then you have greater uneven surface meeting a flat surface, resulting in air pockets.

when its a blob and you squish n rotate you flatten it outwards minising the chance of trapped air. as i said in the other post, touch your heatsink - if its cool or warm and the cpu is reporting those temps then you have a contact issue.

im looking to upgrade from my 4x piped ultra to the 6x piped extreme but are too concerned about the mounting people go on about. im wanting the extra cooling as my idle temps have shot up 10 degrees since my overclock

[PhilDoc]

I've tried to put HS base exactly on the middle to match cpu HS.
About good contact, I think that mod is guaranteeing it ( look on the photos in the second post ).

I think that my TR's HS base was convex( after lapping it's flat ) and the CPU's HS is concave and this a reason. I will do several tests and if that version is true then I'll lap the CPU.

10C is a bit much just to have the bases a little off after lapping or applying TIM incorrectly. None of the mods would guarantee that. Just trying to help, not insult your mod.

[it_burns_when_i_pee]

so is the heatsink hot? if its 60 degrees or more you wont be able to hold your hand on it for long