Laing DDC-1T modded to a DDC-1PlusT - It's possible!

[krueml_]

The German community EffizienzGurus.de wrote a Tutorial "How to mod a DDC-1T to a DDC-1PlusT" ..

The text is in German, but the pictures are good!

*UPDATE*
English version available, too!

English HowTo on EffizienzGurus.de

Have fun!

[Fairydust]

Too late :P

Afaik it only works on new revision pumps.

[Graystar]

How do you change a plus to a normal?

[serialk11r]

How do you change a plus to a normal?

turn down the volts!!! yay.

[nikhsub1]

How do you change a plus to a normal?

It can be done, do the reverse...

[Graystar]

turn down the volts!!! yay.

Easier said than done. I tried using diodes but the solder joints melted. and you need 9 volts to start the pump, so the 7 volt mod doesn't work.

It can be done, do the reverse...

That's what I was thinking but my board doesn't have the solder bridge. It already looks like the first pic. And it's definitely a DDC-2.

[serialk11r]

Easier said than done. I tried using diodes but the solder joints melted. and you need 9 volts to start the pump, so the 7 volt mod doesn't work.


That's what I was thinking but my board doesn't have the solder bridge. It already looks like the first pic. And it's definitely a DDC-2.

Hook it up to a sunbeam rheobus lol

[eXa]

u need to have the new revision with blue impeller to do this!

[mion]

turn down the volts!!! yay.

It doesn't work that way.......

[ziddey]

Is plust just the 18w version?

[Jochenp]

Jup
I think the mod is to turn a 10W into a 18W, am I right?
If this is the case, I'll be buying some 10W's soon.

[krueml_]

You're right!

[coyotetu]

Jup
I think the mod is to turn a 10W into a 18W, am I right?
If this is the case, I'll be buying some 10W's soon.

while you do so, you might want to ask a few questions first, namely if the 10W's you'll be ordering are the newer revision (as shown in the guide and mentioned here), this modification presumably only applies to the newer 10W revision with the blue impeller.

[Radical_53]

What I honestly don't like about the new revision is the seemingly small inlet on the rotor. I haven't had one here so far, but judging from the pictures it seems to be a lot tighter than on the older DDC+.

[Jochenp]

Something aftermarket tops won't fix?

[Radical_53]

How could it? The inket on the rotor itself looks way smaller. So then you'd have a large inlet on the top, but a small inlet on the rotor.

[Graystar]

How could it? The inket on the rotor itself looks way smaller. So then you'd have a large inlet on the top, but a small inlet on the rotor.

LOL!

[Petra]

How could it? The inket on the rotor itself looks way smaller. So then you'd have a large inlet on the top, but a small inlet on the rotor.

I'm gonna have one of the engineers at Laing send one of the new pumps to me so that I can actually measure what the differences are... AFAIK, the blue-impellered pumps haven't really hit the US market yet and they'll be phased in silently. As such, there'll be a period of time where some people may end up getting the older ones, while others get the newer ones.

Anyway, like I said, I'm gonna see what I can do... there's more to mess with than just the impeller housing.

[serialk11r]

I'm gonna have one of the engineers at Laing send one of the new pumps to me so that I can actually measure what the differences are... AFAIK, the blue-impellered pumps haven't really hit the US market yet and they'll be phased in silently. As such, there'll be a period of time where some people may end up getting the older ones, while others get the newer ones.

Anyway, like I said, I'm gonna see what I can do... there's more to mess with than just the impeller housing.

Hey can't you stick a cone shaped thing in the inlet to make the water get sucked in more efficiently?

[Graystar]

This is how my DDC-2 board looks. I also noticed that it's a version 6.0 board (whatever that means.) Obviously, there's a huge difference between the board layout of my board and the board in the article above.

[krueml_]

You have the old version of the Laing.. it's just with the Laing with blue impeller possible..

[Radical_53]

@petra: That would definitely be some interesting info! I'll try to get my hands on a newer revision too. I'm really curious about the changes they made to the impeller.

[Graystar]

I'm really curious about the changes they made to the impeller.

There's probably not much to it. Smaller hole equals higher head but less flow. There are many pumps, such as Iwaki, that allow you to change the flow characteristics just by changing the impeller.

They might just be tweaking the performance of the pump to better match our systems. Being a pump company, I would guess that their goal is to have the pump operate near its BEP (Best Efficiency Point) while in a WC loop. That would provide the best performance and longevity for the pump. Historically, pumps in our little loops have operated way outside their intended ranges due to the large head losses of components.

[Graystar]

You have the old version of the Laing.. it's just with the Laing with blue impeller possible..

My pump was manufactured in 10/06...about 3 months ago. What exactly does "old version" mean to you?

I have a red impeller.

[andersson.j]

Note that the blue impeller doesn't have any holes like the orange did:


I wonder if the blue 18w impeller is identical to the 10w pictured above? Maybe it's got holes like the orange?

A few spontaneous questions:

• I wonder if they fixed the starting issues in the new reversion?
  I hope so because I don't like recommending pumps with "high" failure rates like I've been doing for the past months.
• Are both versions equally priced (by laing that is, not by resellers)?
  If not I guess they won't be selling many 18w pumps from now on.
• Why did they even release two version?
  Because the 10w version is quieter?
• With this new smaller impeller hole, maybe alphacools top has an advantage over Petras due to it's smaller inlet?
  Maybe I'll be recommending Petra'sTech DDCT-02 blue in a couple of weeks?