Water blocks threading and fittings

[eXa]

ok trying to make a list of waterblocks and what threading they use and fittings that fitts. maybe adding some more general info(very short) about the blocks later:


Water blocks:
Swiftech Storm - 1\4 NPSM
Swiftech Apogee - 1\4 NPSM
Swiftech Apogee GTX - G1\4
Swiftech mcw6000 series - Integrated
Swiftech mcw60 - 1\4 NPSM
Swiftech mcw30 - 1\4NPSM
AquaXtreme MP-05 - 9\16 UNF
AquaXtreme MP-01 - 9\16 UNF
DD Tdx - 9\16 UNF
DD Rbx - 9\16 UNF
DD Maze 4 gpu - G1\4
DD maze 4 gpu lp - 9\16 UNF
DD Tyee - G1\4
DD maze 4 nb
DD Hdd cooler - G1\4
D-Tek Fuzion - G1\4
Alphacool Nexxxos xp - G1\4
Alphacool nexxxos hp - G1\8
Alphacool nexxxos nvxp-3 - G1\4
Alphacool nexxxos gp3x - G1\4
Watercool Heatkiller cpu - G1\4
Watercool Heatkiller gpu - G1\4
Watercool Heatkiller gpu-x - G1\4
Watercool Heatkiller nb - G1\4
Watercool Heatkiller nb micro - M5
Watercool Silentstar hd - G1\4
Watercool Heatkiller ram micro - M5
EK Supreme - G1\4
EK wave cpu - G1\4
EK vga - G1\4
EK nb - G1\4
White water le
Polarflo blocks - 9\16 NPT(?)

The swiftech(beeing delrin) 1\4 NPSM is compitable with G1\4(BSPP). Difference is that its 18 threads per inch at NPSM but 19 threads per inch at G1\4(BSPP)
Since most male end G ¼ fittings have a short thread length they can generally be engaged in the NPSM threads without difficulty.

Radiators:
Thermochill PA120.X series - G3\8
Thermochill PA160 - G3\8
Thermochill HE120.X series - G3\8
Hwlabs micro - G1\4
Hwlabs BIP(x-flow) - G1\4
Hwlabs BIX(x-flow) - G1\4
Hwlabs GTS - G1\4
Hwlabs GTX - G1\4
Alphacool Nexxxos Pro - G1\4
Alphacool Nexxxos Xtreme - G1\4
Swiftech MCR X20 - 3\8NPT
Cooltek Extream - G1\4


Pumps:
Laing DDC\Swiftech mcp350 - Integrated 3\8OD, But normally not used, replaced with another top like:
- Petra`s top - G1\4
- XSPC top - G1\4
- Alphacool top - G1\4
- Kp-xpsmod top - ???
- Radiical top - G1\4???
Laing D5\Swiftech MCP655 - Integrated 1\2OD
Hydor seltz L series - G1\2

Resvoir:
Thermochill Thermotube - G3\8
Swiftech MicroRes - 1\4 NPSM
EK Ress - G1\4

Psu:
Waterkiller psu wc cooled - G1\4

[eXa]

G1\4 fittings:
EK G1\4 Size 18 wrench...
DD Highflow fittings
DD Perfect seal fittings
Vcore.dk G1\4
XSPC fittings

G3\8 fittings:
AquaXtreme Hi-flow
Vcore.dk G3\8
EK G3/8

9\16 UNF fittings:
DD Highflow fittings
aquaXtreme Hi-flow 1\2
AquaXtreme Hi-flow 3\8

1\4 NPSM fittings:

G1\8 fittings:
Vcore.dk G1\8

M5 fittings:
Vcore.dk M5




Here ill leave the word to Mr.Virtualrain:


Good idea eXa, I think this simple FAQ could blossom into a fairly substantial sticky on fittings in general. I know that when I started out in water cooling, it was one of the biggest grey areas to overcome and hard to find solid information about. It's particularly frustrating that a lot of online vendors don't even understand the correct nomenclature making it confusing if they start mixing up terminology.

For example:

Tapered Threads: Pipe fittings generally come in two variations, tapered threads where the base of the thread is wider than the end, and parallel threads. With tapered threads, both the male and female ends are tapered and thus form a very tight seal as the fitting is tightened. This kind of thread is not common in water cooling but some online retailers sell tapered fittings which won't work well at all in parallel threads.

Notation for these threads are:
NPT: National Pipe Tapered Thread
BSPT: British Standard Pipe Tapered Thread

Again, avoid these kinds of fittings in water cooling systems.

Parallel Threads: Obviously are parallel and are the most common in water cooling gear. However there are variations of this style of thread as noted below:

NPSM = National Standard Free-Fitting Straight Mechanical Pipe Thread (19 threads per inch at 1/4)
BSPP = British Standard Parallel Pipe Thread (18 threads per inch at 1/4)

Here is a good resource(pdf) on thread standards.

Seal and Tightening:

Parallel threads generally rely on a rubber O-ring for a water-proof seal. The O-rings provided with the barbs mentioned below are ideal. The O-rings that came with my swiftech blocks are too large to be used with G1/4 barbs and I was unable to repurpose them when I switched all my fittings over to nickle plated brass G1/4 high-flow.

As for tightening the fittings, I find that "hand tight" provides a leak-proof seal. Perhaps another half turn with a wrench or socket wouldn't hurt. As long as it's not so tight that the O-ring is deformed you should be good.

Plumbing tape is generally not required. If it has an O-ring use it and forget the plumbing tape. If it doesn't have an O-ring, first ask yourself why, and then if there's simply no way around it, use plumbing tape. If you are putting a fitting into a curved surface such as a res (i.e. a Dangerden plexi res) then you will need plumbers tape because an O-ring can't seat against a curved surface. I have such a res and actually epoxied the threads before attaching the barb for a more permanent seal.

Now for block fittings, there are a few considerations:

Material: Plastic vs. Metal

Plastic fittings can be nylon, poly(something), or acetal. Most Swiftech stuff comes with plastic barb fittings. The main consideration in using these kind of fittings is that if you are using the widely recommended 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs that are plastic, you will not be able to easily remove the tubing once it is on. In fact, you will probably have to heat up the tubing to get it soft enough to put it on and then you will likely have to cut it off.

Metal fittings are typically nickel plated brass. They look good and have the benefit of allowing 7/16" tubing to slide onto 1/2" barbs forming a good leak-proof seal (even without clamps) yet the tubing can still be pulled of with some force without damaging the fitting or tubing.

Design: Barbs, Perfect Seal, Push-to-Connect, Compression

This is perhaps best written by someone else since I don't have experience with the push-to-connect or compression style fittings. my advice on this is to use the Dangerden high-flow 1/2" barbs with G1/4 BSPP threads on as much of your gear as possible.



There is also a 9/16" version available for anything with those threads. The high-flow barbs are actually bored out to the maximum possible bore of about 7/16" making them a perfect match for that tubing. And, as I said above, the nickel plated brass allows the tubing to be slipped on and off without damage yet forms a great water tight seal without clamps.

Good places to buy are:
- DangerDen
- Performance PC's (in fact, I ordered a lot of my stuff through here and the DangerDen high-flow 1/2" fittings were included with most of my gear)

I would avoid the perfect seal fittings if you are using 7/16" tubing... I expect the lip would make it near impossible to get the tubing over and the turbulence caused on the inlet side would hurt flow...



Finding other G1/4 fittings:

Outside of the common barbs mentioned above, finding British threaded fittings in the US/Canada can be a PITA. None of my local plumbing suppliers even know what G1/4 BSPP is. Naturally most american fitting suppliers carry NPT or NPSM fittings. If you want a good selection of G1/4 fittings, I definitely suggest:

Farnell Export (a UK based company with excellent e-commerce site and UPS next day delivery).

I needed some odd fittings: G1/4 to G3/8 adapters for my Remag flow meter and some good G1/4 elbows and these guys had it.

Here's a pic of the elbows which are great from the perspective that they have an 11mm ID (high flow) and are more of a smooth 90-degree bend than some typical milled elbows. While no one wants to use elbows in their loop if it can be avoided, sometimes they are a god-send for tricky tube routings.



Link

You may need these couplers, if you want to use the elbows above...



Link

I bored mine out to 3/8" at a machine shop (you could probably do 7/16" if you have a good machinist).

I had to steal some O-rings from some of my high-flow barb fittings to mate the couplers.

[Darkenreaper57]

What is the advantage of the different barb and thread types? I see people using a different type of barb nowadays, rather than the plastic ones.

[marauder16]

What is the advantage of the different barb and thread types? I see people using a different type of barb nowadays, rather than the plastic ones.

well people often use metal barbs because they are better and more secure than their plastic equivalents, and they look better

[virtualrain]

UPDATE: I've got a more revised version of this article on my new blog... http://virtualrain.blogspot.com/

Good idea eXa, I think this simple FAQ could blossom into a fairly substantial sticky on fittings in general. I know that when I started out in water cooling, it was one of the biggest grey areas to overcome and hard to find solid information about. It's particularly frustrating that a lot of online vendors don't even understand the correct nomenclature making it confusing if they start mixing up terminology.

For example:

Tapered Threads: Pipe fittings generally come in two variations, tapered threads where the base of the thread is wider than the end, and parallel threads. With tapered threads, both the male and female ends are tapered and thus form a very tight seal as the fitting is tightened. This kind of thread is not common in water cooling but some online retailers sell tapered fittings which won't work well at all in parallel threads.

Notation for these threads are:
NPT: National Pipe Tapered Thread
BSPT: British Standard Pipe Tapered Thread

Again, avoid these kinds of fittings in water cooling systems.

Parallel Threads: Obviously are parallel and are the most common in water cooling gear. However there are variations of this style of thread as noted below:

NPSM = National Standard Free-Fitting Straight Mechanical Pipe Thread (19 threads per inch at 1/4)
BSPP = British Standard Parallel Pipe Thread (18 threads per inch at 1/4)

Here is a good resource on thread standards.

Seal and Tightening:

Parallel threads generally rely on a rubber O-ring for a water-proof seal. The O-rings provided with the barbs mentioned below are ideal. The O-rings that came with my swiftech blocks are too large to be used with G1/4 barbs and I was unable to repurpose them when I switched all my fittings over to nickle plated brass G1/4 high-flow.

As for tightening the fittings, I find that "hand tight" provides a leak-proof seal. Perhaps another half turn with a wrench or socket wouldn't hurt. As long as it's not so tight that the O-ring is deformed you should be good.

Plumbing tape is generally not required. If it has an O-ring use it and forget the plumbing tape. If it doesn't have an O-ring, first ask yourself why, and then if there's simply no way around it, use plumbing tape. If you are putting a fitting into a curved surface such as a res (i.e. a Dangerden plexi res) then you will need plumbers tape because an O-ring can't seat against a curved surface. I have such a res and actually epoxied the threads before attaching the barb for a more permanent seal.

Now for block fittings, there are a few considerations:

Material: Plastic vs. Metal

Plastic fittings can be nylon, poly(something), or acetal. Most Swiftech stuff comes with platic barb fittings. The main consideration in using these kind of fittings is that if you are using the widely recommended 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs that are plastic, you will not be able to easily remove the tubing once it is on. In fact, you will probably have to heat up the tubing to get it soft enough to put it on and then you will likely have to cut it off.

Metal fittings are typically nickel plated brass. They look good and have the benefit of allowing 7/16" tubing to slide onto 1/2" barbs forming a good leak-proof seal (even without clamps) yet the tubing can still be pulled of with some force without damaging the fitting or tubing.

Design: Barbs, Perfect Seal, Push-to-Connect, Compression

This is perhaps best written by someone else since I don't have experience with the push-to-connect or compression style fittings. my advice on this is to use the Dangerden high-flow 1/2" barbs with G1/4 BSPP threads on as much of your gear as possible.



There is also a 9/16" version available for anything with those threads. The high-flow barbs are actually bored out to the maximum possible bore of about 7/16" making them a perfect match for that tubing. And, as I said above, the nickel plated brass allows the tubing to be slipped on and off without damage yet forms a great water tight seal without clamps.

Good places to buy are:
- DangerDen
- Performance-PC's (in fact, I ordered a lot of my stuff through here and the DangerDen high-flow 1/2" fittings were included with most of my gear)

I would avoid the perfect seal fittings if you are using 7/16" tubing... I expect the lip would make it near impossible to get the tubing over and the turbulence caused on the inlet side would hurt flow...



Finding other G1/4 fittings:

Outside of the common barbs mentioned above, finding British threaded fittings in the US/Canada can be a PITA. None of my local plumbing suppliers even know what G1/4 BSPP is. Naturally most american fitting suppliers carry NPT or NPSM fittings. If you want a good selection of G1/4 fittings, I definitely suggest:

Farnell Export (a UK based company with excellent e-commerce site and UPS next day delivery).

I needed some odd fittings: G1/4 to G3/8 adapters for my Remag flow meter and some good G1/4 elbows and these guys had it.

Here's a pic of the elbows which are great from the perspective that they have an 11mm ID (high flow) and are more of a smooth 90-degree bend than some typical milled elbows. While no one wants to use elbows in their loop if it can be avoided, sometimes they are a god-send for tricky tube routings.



Link

You may need these couplers, if you want to use the elbows above...



Link

I bored mine out to 3/8" at a machine shop (you could probably do 7/16" if you have a good machinist).

I had to steal some O-rings from some of my high-flow barb fittings to mate the couplers.



I'll add more when I have a bit more time.

It would also be good to start a reference list of rads and pumps and what fittings they require.

[JoeBar]

Very nice. Consider including vga and chipset blocks also.

[NO1B4ME]

Man thanks for hte info .

[Petra]

The 9/16-18 isn't NPSM... it's UNF (so, simply referring to it as 9/16 UNF works). Also, the older DD stuff is in 9/16 UNF, the newer stuff is (IIRC) pretty much all 1/4" BSPP (G1/4). Though, interestingly, most of the Low Profile Maze4 GPU blocks are still shipping with 9/16 UNF threads.

[syne_24]

This is very helpful, good work man

[hoax]

very nice eXa... :thumbsup:

one question...which one of this barbs do you guys recommend to be used with the storm: EK G1/4 Rev. 2 or Dangerden high-flow 1/2" barbs with G1/4 BSPP?

Any one of them is "safer" then the other? are there any known issues of metal barbs coming lose from storms?

thanks
hoax

[Sparky]

OK if I am reading this right, these DD fittings work on the storm?

Sorry to everyone who keeps seeing me ask n00b questions....

[syne_24]

OK if I am reading this right, these DD fittings work on the storm?

Sorry to everyone who keeps seeing me ask n00b questions....

technically yes, but i heard something about the thread on DD's G1/4 is a little sharper or longer and it grips the thread's wall more; therefore, it doesnt quite fit well unless you really muscle it in. Just get EK's G1/4, the thread is really rounded off more, and fits easily on the storm. And yes I've already tried the DD's on the storm, it didnt work out.

[hoax]

technically yes, but i heard something about the thread on DD's G1/4 is a little sharper or longer and it grips the thread's wall more; therefore, it doesnt quite fit well unless you really muscle it in. Just get EK's G1/4, the thread is really rounded off more, and fits easily on the storm. And yes I've already tried the DD's on the storm, it didnt work out.

but are the original storm's plastic barbs "safer" then the Ek's?

thanks
hoax

[nealh]

Virtualrain..why do you recommend DD high flow G1/4 and EK G1/4 barbs as well....

does the DD barb have a large O-ring?

[Sparky]

technically yes, but i heard something about the thread on DD's G1/4 is a little sharper or longer and it grips the thread's wall more; therefore, it doesnt quite fit well unless you really muscle it in. Just get EK's G1/4, the thread is really rounded off more, and fits easily on the storm. And yes I've already tried the DD's on the storm, it didnt work out.

EK is overseas though so is that even possible? I'd imagine the shipping charges would be pretty high if I could buy the stuff.....

[virtualrain]

Virtualrain..why do you recommend DD high flow G1/4 and EK G1/4 barbs as well....

does the DD barb have a large O-ring?

Hi, I didn't mention the EK G1/4 barbs since I don't have any personal experience with them. However, they look very similar to the DD high flow barbs and should do just fine. According to spec, they have an ID of 10mm which is a little bit less than the DD barbs which have an ID of about 11.x mm so the DD should flow ever so slightly better. However, if you are over the pond, go with the EK barbs.

The DD barbs have a very nice tight fitting o-ring. The swiftech plastic barbs come with very large loose o-rings that work well with the stock plastic fittings but I was disappointed I could not repurpose those o-rings for use with some of the other G1/4 fittings I purchased from Farnell that came without o-rings. I ultimately had to buy some more DD barbs to get the o-rings I needed.

[Sneaky]

vote for sticky


great thread if we can get more than just blocks on there - maybe reservoirs, etc. too?

[virtualrain]

technically yes, but i heard something about the thread on DD's G1/4 is a little sharper or longer and it grips the thread's wall more; therefore, it doesnt quite fit well unless you really muscle it in. Just get EK's G1/4, the thread is really rounded off more, and fits easily on the storm. And yes I've already tried the DD's on the storm, it didnt work out.

I don't have a storm, but the DD G1/4 high flow fittings work perfectly in the Apogee, the MCW60 and MCW30. I'm surprised that the Storm wouldn't work just as well with the DD barbs as these other swifty blocks.

I should point out that you only get about 1 or 2 threads of engagement with the DD barbs into the swifty blocks so make sure you tighten a half turn with a wrench to make sure they are on there good but no leaks. I also wouldn't put a lot of torque on the block via the tubing, but that should go without saying regardless of fitting.

The threaded area on the swifty blocks has a cup like surface to ensure the o-ring doesn't distort as it is tightened down. Just be sure to use the o-rings that come on the DD barbs and toss the o-rings that swiftech provides... the flanges on the DD barbs don't adequately cover the larger swifty o-rings.

[DepTi]

Wow, this is pretty wierd. I was about to come on and make a thread about fittings and what I would need to get for certain parts. This saves me some time!

So if 1/4 NPSM is the best to use for the Storm, who makes the best ones and where can you get em?

Also, maybe I'm not assuming too much, but if the Swiftech MCRES also looks like it uses the same fittings that come with the Apogee or Storm, then it should be 1/4 NPSM as well, right?

[syne_24]

but are the original storm's plastic barbs "safer" then the Ek's?

thanks
hoax

Well the plastic ones are fine but you have to be carefull if you overtighten such as hose clamp will break it. EK's barb is a great alternative and it works fine.

EK is overseas though so is that even possible? I'd imagine the shipping charges would be pretty high if I could buy the stuff.....

If you want to wait about a week or so, Petra's got some EK's barb for his top incoming. It will be alot cheaper to order then.

[virtualrain]

Well the plastic ones are fine but you have to be carefull if you overtighten such as hose clamp will break it. EK's barb is a great alternative and it works fine.

Are the EK barbs any better/different than the DD G1/4 high flow barbs? They look identical to me except the EK barbs have an ID of 10mm and the DD barbs are 11.x (I think like 11.5mm) ID.

[hoax]

@ syne_24 - thanks a lot for the reply. The thing that got me worried is that the threaded part of the original plastic barb looks at least 3 times longer then the ones in the metal barbs... without ever mounting one before, it looks like it could come off just by touching it..



virtualrain already explained how to do it...it just looks a bit scary when looking at a pic like that

[Petra]

Are the EK barbs any better/different than the DD G1/4 high flow barbs? They look identical to me except the EK barbs have an ID of 10mm and the DD barbs are 11.x (I think like 11.5mm) ID.

My calipers show the DD G1/4 High-Flow barbs as having an ID of right at 10mm and the EK barbs as having an ID of just a hair under 10mm... So, unless you're looking at the 9/16UNF high-flows... wtf?

[syne_24]

@ syne_24 - thanks a lot for the reply. The thing that got me worried is that the threaded part of the original plastic barb looks at least 3 times longer then the ones in the metal barbs... without ever mounting one before, it looks like it could come off just by touching it..

virtualrain already explained how to do it...it just looks a bit scary when looking at a pic like that

it's fine, we got plenty of members here who uses it. If you're worry the thread is too short and might twist off, just do a about 1-2 wraps of plumber's tape; then it will be nice and tight.

[hoax]

it's fine, we got plenty of members here who uses it. If you're worry the thread is too short and might twist off, just do a about 1-2 wraps of plumber's tape; then it will be nice and tight.

perfect.. thanks a lot for the reply...