How can I mount evap on the Asus CT-479 / Dothan?

[Pedro Rocha]

I will join Dothan wave in a few days (0.09 FX-55 / 57s reached a dead end for extreme ocers, since dont work at -110ºC), but I suspect that is not gonna be easy to mount the CT-479 on the Vapo or on the cascade ..

See this :


As you can see 2 holes in one are covered, and there is a jumper and power connecter

One solution maybe to rip jumper off and solder it on correct FSB postion, but the evaporator position it is a big problem ..wtih 2 holes coverd how can it fixed ??

Any clues please ??

Any photos of the CT-479/P4C800-E mounted in a phase system ??

Thanks

[Tyrou]

rip jumper, bend the connector, or solder directly on the adapter to remove it

I'd keep the plastic bracket, and use nylon ties to fix the evap

With my cascade on the Dfi855, I used a metal clamp to atcch it to the mobo, holes were totally covered by foam

[afireinside]

Zipties won't get you much mounting pressure... I think I'll use J bolts if I get a dothan. Solder the jumpers and remove the FDD connector. Solder some wires out a bit to a molex.

[^don.k's^]

Soldering, fdd power and jumpers. keep the bracket, and invent yourself with that you have at hand, nylon ties, or do anything metalic who fixes in the bracket... I can't explain me very good



PS: i can't believe i'm speaking to help the 4ghz ( in AMD ) barrier broker

[CopperCAT]

Maybe you could resolder the connectors to the back of the mainboard.
I already did that with an USB connector on my previous motherboard

[Pedro Rocha]

Thank you, keep the plastic bracket and use nylon ties to fix the evap may be a good idea, altought find the correct contact will be not easy..

Regarding the connecter, can I simple rip it off ??
Or it will be needed to power adapter ??

BTW : ^don.k's^ thank you for help, all people on XS needs help from time to time even barrier brokers

[^don.k's^]

I think you cant rip off the power connector, simply move it. (soldering etc...)

[gclg2000]

Try this.... (or something like it). I did a tube (and/or) cascade mount using chilly1 evap head's and mount down...but you get the idea...

Saw this around the board somewhere, just kinda combined some idea's i saw. Just don't make the insulation under the adapter to think or it will push the adapter up some and cause CPU boot error...

I could have done better job on the insulation top layer, but i think insulating it like that is the way to go.

Good luck Ricky.

[gclg2000]

oh ya, in the pic below, you seen i should have done a bigger area piece of 1/2" neoprene and came on out around or main holes for the black plastic mount to come through the insulation or something.

Started getting a little bit of frost on the exposed adapter

[Master_G]

What are those little carpet things called?
Nice mounting btw, looks great.

G

[gclg2000]

What are those little carpet things called?
Nice mounting btw, looks great.

G

THanks, they are just little sticky felt pads i picked up from the hardware store.

[illmatik]

Those look like velcro pads.. At least thats what it looked like uclajd used.

Hey, what size/type of jbolts did you use? I'm looking to mount a vapo head to one of these and I'd like to try to use the stock vapo springs/knobs if possible, although I know the chances of me finding metric nuts/bolts are almost as likely as me strapping on a pair of ice skates in hell. It would be nice to have a thumbscrew solution, but a fixed bolt is all the same in the end I suppose.

[gclg2000]

Those look like velcro pads.. At least thats what it looked like uclajd used.

Hey, what size/type of jbolts did you use? I'm looking to mount a vapo head to one of these and I'd like to try to use the stock vapo springs/knobs if possible, although I know the chances of me finding metric nuts/bolts are almost as likely as me strapping on a pair of ice skates in hell. It would be nice to have a thumbscrew solution, but a fixed bolt is all the same in the end I suppose.

Well for this instance, i just took my mouting plate (white plate that holds the tube or chilly1 head down) to the hardware store (along w/ the mobo ) and just got some J-bolts that would fit it and went w/ that.

Not sure how you could mount a vapo on it. I'm sure you could get creative and make a bridge or something that would go b/t the j-bolts then tap you some threads in those so you could have something the vapo head could pull down onto?

I've never owned a vapo, so not sure what the best solution would be.

If you have trouble finding the J-bolts, let me know. Pay a few $$ in shipping and i'll send you a set of bolts and some felt feet pad things for free.

[Bennah]

Looks ever so simple...

Thanks for sharing your mounting method, certainly a good way.

[illmatik]

I don't think I'll have as much frost worry as the hard hitting cascade guys, but do you think the vapo socket back heater would be a worthwhile application here providing there is adequate neoprene under the ct479?

[charlie]

there's actually an easier solution. fill the retention frame with an epoxy, some kind of an epoxy that will fill the entire area, including the underside of the adapter which gets VERY wet. Just need to know what kind of epoxy is dielectric. Yeah, it's permanent, lol...
But I've tried lots of different condesation-proofing on the ct-479 and NONE are effective.

C

[illmatik]

Well for this instance, i just took my mouting plate (white plate that holds the tube or chilly1 head down) to the hardware store (along w/ the mobo ) and just got some J-bolts that would fit it and went w/ that.

Not sure how you could mount a vapo on it. I'm sure you could get creative and make a bridge or something that would go b/t the j-bolts then tap you some threads in those so you could have something the vapo head could pull down onto?

I've never owned a vapo, so not sure what the best solution would be.

If you have trouble finding the J-bolts, let me know. Pay a few $$ in shipping and i'll send you a set of bolts and some felt feet pad things for free.

Thanks for the offer man! I might take you up on it if I dont find anything local that does the trick. This is how it can be done on the vapo

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...150#post888150

[illmatik]

there's actually an easier solution. fill the retention frame with an epoxy, some kind of an epoxy that will fill the entire area, including the underside of the adapter which gets VERY wet. Just need to know what kind of epoxy is dielectric. Yeah, it's permanent, lol...
But I've tried lots of different condesation-proofing on the ct-479 and NONE are effective.

C

I had some really nice foam epoxy although I think its expansion properties would force the ct right out of the socket. I used to have a really nice epoxy gel that would do the trick and would be removable/reuseable as it cured to a very durable consistency in just in between soft silicone and traditional rubber sheet. A nice little application of conformal compound in between applications/removals should do just nicely and it will also retain the impression of the underside of the ct-479. I think w/ a nice sleeved cable w/ a 4 post shallow connector (put on and snip rest of power leads off) and one of these gel inserts, I could be onto something . Maybe I should get some dead p4p,p4cs, and ct479s to use as molds Once all of my parts arrive, I'll see if my dad has anymore of this gel or if he can get more when I visit this coming weekend and post my findings.

[illmatik]

The stuff I'm talking about is similar to what you see here although its not exactly a traditional urethane. This stuff doesn't look too bad as it doesn't have the shrinkage factor that's common w/ pourable mold urethanes.

[charlie]

wonder if it's dielectric?

[illmatik]

What hardness do you guys think would be best for something like this? Shore 30 even seems a bit stiff (i.e hard to fit or too much air gaps) for something this small unless it were to have a urethane core and soft silicone surface to handle the surface mount solders of the boards. I'm willing to give this a shot and make a bunch for fellow subzero dothan enthusiasts to try if it turns out the p4p800 deluxe in my mach II is dead.

[illmatik]

wonder if it's dielectric?

Some of these are dangerous as they use metal as a curing agent. The one I'm specifically looking for that my dad was using at work (works in pharmaceutical biz) was nonconductive and actually safe for contact w/ consumable products.

Either way, I'm on hold w/ the manufacturer now to find out

[illmatik]

Waiting for a call back on the urethane, but the saleswoman recommended this as a safe solution claiming that all prosthetic silicones are supposed to be non-conductive. Shore 5A is a bit on the soft side but it might do the trick as far as filling in gaps and maneuverability as long as its durable. It also cures w/o tacky surface which makes it easier to fit into the small socket area. Kind of expensive, but I'm willing to give it a shot next paycheck

[Gray Mole]

Awesome

I'll be joining in myself, and that's a perfect guide for Dothan mounting

Likely I'll be using 750 instead of 760 though...

Any limitations on multipliers from 750 to 760?

Any reason to avoid 750 and just dish out the extra for 760?

I'd like access to 13 and 14 multi's if possible, and coming from amd for so long, I'm way out of date on intel stuff...

Gray

[|RickY|]

oh pedro, please dont worry with everything , even on hard part of scool i can think on some parts the mounting will not be a problem anyway on a quick read of this thred there is good solution thanks guys