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Thread: Solution for Running High FSB on NF7-S with 333FSB CPU's

  1. #151
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    oh. IC
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  2. #152
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    Thumbs up im a go at 200 now

    k, after 4 attempts (fear of cutting too deep) i got my 3rd L12 cut and it starts at 133 default. went from 185 stable to 200 stable. got into winblowz at 204, but it got ugly, quick. so, i can say that, the cutting worked for me to get 15 more stable! just nerve wrecking cutting away at that area. damn, i have fat fingers.
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  3. #153
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    Re: im a go at 200 now

    Originally posted by linkponder
    k, after 4 attempts (fear of cutting too deep) i got my 3rd L12 cut and it starts at 133 default. went from 185 stable to 200 stable. got into winblowz at 204, but it got ugly, quick. so, i can say that, the cutting worked for me to get 15 more stable! just nerve wrecking cutting away at that area. damn, i have fat fingers.
    I hear ya...like I said elsewhere, doing that under the microscope, that razor looked like Godzilla attacking an ant. Look on the bright side....you didn't have to go the ER and get stitches! LOL!
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  4. #154
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    Ok, found out Corsair does not make the pc3500xms sticks in 1G (yet), can't get a hold of a 2800+ without "approved" board and the NF7-S already has a NB fan cooler. So I went a head and ordered the mobo, 1 stick of Corsair 512 pc3500c2 xms memory (waiting on the 1G's), the 2700+ and a Thermaltake Smart Volcano 9 cpu cooler.
    Back to the max ram question for a second: Abit's site says: Supports 3 DIMM DDR 200/266/333 (Max. 3GB) OR Supports 2 DIMM DDR 400 (Max. 2GB). I read that as saying my max would be (2) 1G sticks of the Corsair pc3500 433 mem for the 400mhz compatibility...am I reading wrong?
    Either way, there is the stuff on order that I should have in a few days. Next question is what software should I have for benching and/or burn-in and stability checks? I only have wcpuid 3.1a and mobo monitor 5.2.1.0 so far. I'm running winxp pro. Anything else I'm missing?
    You guys have a lot of knowledge and great machines, I'm just trying to catch up! :-) Thanks in advance! Dave

  5. #155
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    OJ-

    I just looked in my A7N8X book, and it definitely allows 3 GB's of any brand of 400/333/266/200 so it will not be any problem with 433, which i am running 3 sticks of (256-256-512) CorsairXMS 3500. If the Abit has that limit, you will have to make a decision.

    Benching: Wcupid, 3dMark2001SE & PCMark2002 (both are the free versions at those links).

    Unfortunately MBM still does not have a version that will work yet for NF2 boards, but he is releasing a beta version very soon. You might want to get some additional temp probe measuring device like Digidoc-5 or Lian-Li etc.
    Last edited by Mikee; 01-08-2003 at 11:33 PM.
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  6. #156
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    Abit KX7-333 has the same sort of restriction, 3 sticks of DDR226 or 2 sticks of DDR333.

    OJ, when it comes to overclocking 1GB sticks are not likely to perform well, just as 512MB sticks generally don't perform as well as 256MB.
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  7. #157
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    Got my NF7 not NF7-S today. The Board runs with 205 MHz FSB with 3x256MB Corsair XMS 3500 CL2 DIMMs without any problems. CPU is an Athlon XP 2400+ @ 11x205=2255 MHz. AGP Voltage 1,6, DIMM 2,7V, Chipset 1,7V and CPU 1,8V.
    So I think running three DIMMs is no problem with the NF7 and NF7-S.

    Does anybody know where I can get some betabioses for further testing?

    Found it here in the forum!!!

    Greetz,

    MMIQHW
    Last edited by MMIQHW; 01-09-2003 at 10:05 AM.

  8. #158
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    First of all, a great "Thank You" to Praetereo.

    This is awesome.

    I have a pc2700 Samsung CTL stick, XP2700+, and NF7.
    Best I could do before the mod was 173mhz FSB with full stability.
    After the L12 mod, 200mhz FSB@ 5-2-2-2.0 first attempt and ran 3DMark repeatedly. I haven't tried higher yet. hehe.. oh this is so easy!


    Btw, some of you people struggle cutting the bridge on the AXP/Tbred chips?? People people... cutting a bridge is extremely easy. I used to cut Durons and AXPs' bridges for ages. Let me give ya some hint. There's a technique how to do this effectively and efficiently. Yes, use a Exacto knife. Use its tip point to the bridge line where it needs to be cut. "Poke" it. Or, Press it in and pull out. Don't cut a bridge like when you cut a meat. Don't do that... No slicing. Just a simple poke or press in and out. Only takes 2~ 3 repeats and that's it. You only need 30 sec.


    Praetereo, and your partner, how much do i owe ya..

  9. #159
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    I also got my NF7 this week and did the L12 mod on my XP2600+... works 4 me

    cutting a bridge is extremely easy
    thats even more tru if you use current to blow the bridge, I used the +5V from my psu connected to 2 needles...
    This was really easy, and you don't see anything from the outside, so you still have warranty

    Well, i'm kind'a stuck @ 210fsb and 2300 cpu...
    The Chipset voltage holds me back, my ram should be able to do more (Corsair 3200cs)
    running only 1 stick of 512 meg.
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  10. #160
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    The easiest way to cut the bridges on an Athlon proc. is to use a nine volt battery and a set of test leads. connect one lead to the positive and the other to the negative and use the leads to short out the bridge. Its just like blowing a fuse the bridge pops and causes no damage to the proc. and you don't have to damage the surface just to cut it. that way if you have to reverse the process you can simply reconnect the dots with defogger paint and not worry about and hole being worn in the surface of the proc.
    I'm not afraid to make a keychain to get what I want!!!

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  11. #161
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    the pc2700 is a 333fsb stick, I can run mine at 180x2/360 with fast timings all day long and nanya I definitly capable I had my prevoius dragon plus kt266a running nanya ram att 150fsb with no stability problems at all, Now I have a dragon ultra kt400 and can run my pc2700 at 180x2/360 with 11.5 mult with no problems. I hardcoded my 2600/333 to be at 13.5/333 and now my cpu seems to be holding me back alittle till I do the voltage mod and get some desent pc3500, but pc2700 should run at 333dram speed at default voltage no problem, let the mobo set you timings automatically by speed...
    I'm not afraid to make a keychain to get what I want!!!

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  12. #162
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    PC Tuner...now that sounds like the best way. Just an ordinary 9V transister battery will do it? Cool to know for next time.
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  13. #163
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    I have an option to buy a 333mhz Athlon XP 2600 at USD40 more than a 266Mhz Athlon XP 2600,can anyone advice which is a better choice to buy as after reading through all these threads it seems that a default 333Mhz FSB is not favoured and even I get the 333Mhz FSB i will have to cut the bridge to default to 266Mhz instead.Appreciate any inputs..Thank you very much.

    rgs

  14. #164
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    If any of u want to eliminate this AMD 333FSB CPU O/C prob. just go out and buy the Epox 8RDA+ Mobo all u need to do is remove the FSB/CPU Jumper and no modding required to the L12 it worked for my XP2700+ it is now stable @200FSB and yes I was having the same problem bf I did this, also with the newest bios my CPU is fully unlocked too.

    Last edited by pilot6; 01-13-2003 at 07:33 PM.

  15. #165
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    Originally posted by pilot6
    If any of u want to eliminate this AMD 333FSB CPU O/C prob. just go out and buy the Epox 8RDA+ Mobo all u need to do is remove the FSB/CPU Jumper and no modding required to the L12 it worked for my XP2700+ it is now stable @200FSB and yes I was having the same problem bf I did this, also with the newest bios my CPU is fully unlocked too.

    I still had to do the L12 as well, on the epox, to improve my 2800+ top fsb.

  16. #166
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    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&threadid=8117

    anyone have a solution to my prob? runnin 175FSB sucks! i want to do 9.5x205 but i can not get it to load windows!
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  17. #167
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    Originally posted by xgman
    I still had to do the L12 as well, on the epox, to improve my 2800+ top fsb.
    Thats strange did u have the latest bios installed at the time thats what worked for me anyway, both the newest C31 Bios and the jumper removed eliminated the L12 cut.

  18. #168
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    Originally posted by pilot6
    Thats strange did u have the latest bios installed at the time thats what worked for me anyway, both the newest C31 Bios and the jumper removed eliminated the L12 cut.
    I think the bios at the time was c16. Maybe the c31 does the trick if it worked for you.

  19. #169
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    Worked for me too!

    edit: I did it with a sharp pin in a few minutes... checked the cut with an ohm meter...which any of you supposed electronics wizards should be using.... cut easy.
    WORKS LIKE A DREAM.
    200FSB.... ran 10x loop of winmark 200FSB no problems.
    thx,
    P
    Last edited by pmorcos; 01-15-2003 at 07:30 PM.
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  20. #170
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    I have the same question

    Originally posted by lumenor
    I have an option to buy a 333mhz Athlon XP 2600 at USD40 more than a 266Mhz Athlon XP 2600,can anyone advice which is a better choice to buy as after reading through all these threads it seems that a default 333Mhz FSB is not favoured and even I get the 333Mhz FSB i will have to cut the bridge to default to 266Mhz instead.Appreciate any inputs..Thank you very much.

    rgs
    The 333FSB is typically a few dollars cheaper than the 266FSB on Pricewatch.com --

    What would be better: the 2600+/333 with the L12 mod or the 2600+/266? Or are they basically the same thing after the mod?

    Thanks!

    /jg
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  21. #171
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    the 2600/333 is garranteed to run at the higher bus rate and since its a t-bred b it will run coller and clock higher I have had hy 2600/333 at 200fsb without the mod but I have a kt400 mobo, are you sure the 2600/333 is cheaper than the 2600/266 because its the newer chip?
    I'm not afraid to make a keychain to get what I want!!!

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  22. #172
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    I assumed the 333 is generally a bit cheaper because it "needs" the L12 mod to open it up. If I understand this thread right, doing the mod will revert it to a 266 which can then be pushed higher than the 333 could unmodified. I'm just wondering if that's the only difference.... whether I should just get the 266 or not to avoid the mod...?
    <b><i>Coming Soon:</i></b>
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  23. #173
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    Re: I have the same question

    Originally posted by jgeoff
    The 333FSB is typically a few dollars cheaper than the 266FSB on Pricewatch.com --

    What would be better: the 2600+/333 with the L12 mod or the 2600+/266? Or are they basically the same thing after the mod?

    Thanks!

    /jg
    2600+/266 is rated 2113 MHz, while 2600+/333 is rated 2067 MHz, so the 266 MHz FSB version is rated slightly higher.

    However, I think AMD is not shipping anymore of the 266 version, except for the coming MP 2600+.

  24. #174
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    I tried to download a manual for the A7N from abit but couldn't find it online.

    It seems on the A7N8X, a jumper change (CPU_FSB) to 200 from the normal setting of 333/266 does the same thing as cutting the L12. Memory failures that occurred at 195fsb, went away until the 220's. A reset of defaults in the bios show a 133 processor instead of a 166. So it seems to work.

    Thought I'd mention this to help the asus people here cutting the L12's.

    Do you guys have such a jumper on your board?

  25. #175
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    Originally posted by otoc
    I tried to download a manual for the A7N from abit but couldn't find it online.

    It seems on the A7N8X, a jumper change (CPU_FSB) to 200 from the normal setting of 333/266 does the same thing as cutting the L12. Memory failures that occurred at 195fsb, went away until the 220's. A reset of defaults in the bios show a 133 processor instead of a 166. So it seems to work.

    Thought I'd mention this to help the asus people here cutting the L12's.

    Do you guys have such a jumper on your board?
    Yes, on A7N8X it has two settings, 100 or 133/166. On Epox I think it's 100 or 133 or 166, which also solves the 333 issue if you just set it to 133.

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