The oil is your seal between the copper and brass.
However I've found Nylog to be the best sealant by far down to around -40C. Its basicly liquid nylon which doesn't ever harden up.
The oil is your seal between the copper and brass.
However I've found Nylog to be the best sealant by far down to around -40C. Its basicly liquid nylon which doesn't ever harden up.
Imagination is a powerful tool.
i have this blue stuff that works realy well, its only rated down to -100f though. what do you think happens then?
well it wasn't tested there but I can tell you that if you have dissimmilar materials like cbrass and aluminum the blue stuff leaks but on copper/brass at -120C it holds.
That blue gunk is acidic, hardens up, and gets used to much. I never liked it.
Nylog just turns into a small ball of snot in the compressor oil sump and doesn't eat the winding. I've never tested Nylog below -40C... so dont know. I'll give them a call and find out.
Better off just brazing everything at these tempatures if you ask me.
Imagination is a powerful tool.
i was gonna get some of that lock stuff 9blue stuff) so i can get around to using my txv.
ya cant braze them right, i like to braze everthing too redwolf.
Sure you can... Just use 56% silver and braze up around the flare nut. I've done it
Just remember to put a wet rag around the Valve before brazing for a heatsink.
That Thermopaste works very well too.
BTW Nylog is only rated down to -40C
Imagination is a powerful tool.
I dont understand.. the copper makes the seal between the two ends, it is compressed and fills the gaps.. doesnt it? I use flare washers and I've never needed thread sealant, and none of the flares I've made leak when properly tightened.
Originally Posted by gkiing
I had someone come around and install an air conditioner.
Hes comment was that he goes through about 20kg of r22 a week going around redoing flares that haven’t been done properly.
Especially the electricians that get there installers license and do it for a side job over summer. Except when the units loose their gas they cant fill them and then have to get the fridgie in.
Redwolf I keep that in mind I would feel better having brazed join and not get
Nylog stuff save a few $$
The deal is flares have a bad happit of expanding after some time. Vibration, Heat, Cool.
If your using Oil (like your supposed to) on the pipe while flaring then there is oil on the seal. The oil does two things... helps to even out the metal and seal micro cavities in the metal. Just remember to use small turns and back off after each one. But never go all the way down to a 45degree unless your using a 38degree tool.
Imagination is a powerful tool.
update i lost the 1/2Hp compressor for the autocascade so i have had to think of something different compound autocascade.
i switched in 3x 1/5Hp compressors. recently i found some old r12 compressors with the pipes snapped. i removed the suction line and drilled a bigger hole in the compressor and replaced it with 3/8 pipe. so after autocascade i have 2 1/5Hp in parrall , condenser wrong way up
and then a series 1/5Hp compressor, i couldnt care if compressors die
so far mostly insulated im getting -68c unloaded and -40c hx. no pics for a while as the camera is broken.
Last edited by kayl; 03-26-2005 at 07:32 AM.
No sealant is required on a flare fitting,it is a taper to taper seal, A double flare works best. walt
You usually need to use a copper flare gasket to make the seal. Using loctite on the threads is also extra insurance.
lol poor walt. Dont mind gkiing... he doesn't know what a double flare is.
Imagination is a powerful tool.
Blu thread lock sealant should work in your case,why dont your put and test if your have leaks with just bbq propane with the system on?
you guys don't get it,the threads are there only to provide the holding torque,they have absolutly NOTHING to do with the seal. Walt
The lock sealent is only good to compensate for a bad flare, better to get the flare right in the first place.
Regards
John.
"Thermodynamics is a funny subject. The first time you go through it, you don't understand it at all. The second time you go through it, you think you understand it, except for one or two points. The third time you go through it, you know you don't understand it, but by that time you are so used to that subject, it doesn't bother you anymore".
a double flare is just like a regular flare but the tubing is bent back on itself.. well thats one type
or you could have a "v" shaped ring on the end producing two seals effectively
care to enlighten me on this redwolf? I'd like to know for sure.. and I should... I'm working with an ac/r company.
Last edited by gkiing; 03-26-2005 at 06:05 PM.
Sweet dude. Good luck, and I cant wait to see some more pics
are you talking about compression rings?
gkiing.. read what you wrote.
Imagination is a powerful tool.
no, its like an overlapped flare.. read the link below.
http://www.phi-tulip.com/eng/dblflaring.htm
standard double flare
Last edited by gkiing; 03-26-2005 at 11:19 PM.
the autocascade is back to life.
just need to change metering devices to get better temps.
insulating it didnt make that much of a change, i was surprised.
Last edited by kayl; 04-16-2005 at 04:08 AM.
I been busy tunning changing capillary length.
I managed -77.1c with new evap and -34c 1st stage.
i still need to insulate evap so when i get camera back should have better temps
Still using r290/744.
it would be nice to test it with 1150 soon
Last edited by kayl; 04-15-2005 at 08:51 AM.
How wide is ID of capillary tube and what is length?
And congrats, -77.1*C is very lowHX's temp is also low...
thanxs tonic, ID of caplines is 0.028" both stages.
hx temp is r290 suction line leaving the hx and suction line is flodded all way back to compressor.
it sits mainly at -75c and -35c 1st stage and about 1HG low side pressure
as for capline length im gonna keep that quiet for a while as competition is almost to end date and i want to come first hehee
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