so far i have scored all the compressors in this post for free.
hehee have to keep a keen eye out, and moto bike riding helps.
an then there is family.
and i forgot rubbish day. those big clean ups where ppl dump there rubbish out the front of their house.
scoring compressors for free is part of the fun.
makes a system cheaper.
update, i got 2.7GHZ at 2.1v vcore on the sempron.
i managed to get an old epox 8rd3a+ erlier revision mobo that just kept dieing.
i mangaed to get it to run for a few days now.
best of all i can uses up to 2.2v vcore, other mobo had current limiting issues.
i have pulled mobo apart and did a little sealing.
cause i had some conformal coating on there before. i gave it a good topup.
30c in the room and condensation is forming in some places.
i need airconditioner its too hot.
in the cooler months basically no condensation, which is better.
i gave the cooler a go today.
its 35c room temp.
evap is -41c (mother boardmonitor -30c) (1hp compressor) and condenser out is 41c (ouch) and pressures are 10hg/ 200psig, i tried 0psig low side but high side was 250psig and condenser output was 47c and evap was -31c, not good.
it normally does -50c at room temperature of 20c or so.
so when it gets hot things really change
i tried with the stock heatsink, stock with no overclock cpu temp motherboard monitor was 51c
my cpu is at stock. sitting at my comp gaming for a while, i try to get up but sweat has glued me to the chair
i bet your ceondensor is really steaming, wats the temp
how does that pron compare to the 2500? its a barton right?
Could you please give me the specs (comp hp, kind and lenght of cap tube, etc) of that system?Originally Posted by DoGMaN
I have two systems running r502 with 1/3hp comps and they "only" give me -46c unloaded.
I think I need to buy a manifold, weld and vacuum pump.
Where did you plug this temperature sensor? Even so, I dunno if this is added with RDA+, I'm
asking because I got sensor like you and, so far, I don't know to plug it to my NF-7S
discharge temps were crazy, I touched pipe and burn finger.my cpu is at stock
i bet your ceondensor is really steaming, wats the temp
how does that pron compare to the 2500? its a barton right?
Much better ocing at night though.
the barton 2500 stock is better than the 2800 sempron for sure, in the old mobo the sempron is a 2400+ (old bios)
its liking high volts for now im at 2.1v now 2723mhz, a screen shot once i hit wall for ocing. With more volts I want to find its absolute limit.
A chip at 2.2v and say 2.8ghz is definitely a good load for the cooling system.
its a 1Hp rotary with about 9ft 0.031"Could you please give me the specs (comp hp, kind and lenght of cap tube, etc) of that system?
I have two systems running r502 with 1/3hp comps and they "only" give me -46c unloaded.
I think I need to buy a manifold, weld and vacuum pump.
about 8-10 ft seems ok. same for other compressors as well.
i think you need a bigger compressor.
a 1/2Hp to 1Hp should be able to run 0psig to 4Hg and handle full load for better temps.
i dont use a vacuum pump either
but of coarse would help
yes the mobo came with that temp sensor soldered to mobo.
you might be able to plug it into where the cpu fas is.
wow very nice... you have the skills
I think you're the only person I know in OZ building their own phase change
---
thanxs i think so too
i hit the max tonight. 2736MHZ 3dmar2001se run with out a crash.
39sec on 1m Pi. same as barton at 2724
This was with vcore at 2.11v real, I tried 2.2v but no increase in oc.
windows can run at 2760mhz
room temp 26c evap -42c motherboard monitor -28c. idle -45c
i like using mother board monitor to tell me whether or not i have good cpu contact.
well i removed the dd block to inspect mobo after a few hours of benching on a lovly hot aussie night to see how condensation is going.
i have been trying wooden insulation. its not a very good insulator even with the bench top surface finish. water seems to form all over the wood otter surface. at the actual cpu area there was no water due to air tight seal. i also used hot glue to seal insulation to block to make that air tight.
i think next i go back to white foam.
I wish it worked cause it was so easy to put on the different evaps and attach the temp sensor. Foam wears out over time and screw hole through foam get bigger (cause I take it off too much)
Last edited by kayl; 12-28-2004 at 10:40 AM.
i must say though this is the worst i have seen condensation eva.
normally me -31c system runs fine and no condensation will form on the insulation
but tonight check this out. i think there mush be a small knick or something here cause of the frost forming.
i also notice near the compressor where the copper block was sitting frost formed there as well.
i think even the -31c system needs 2 layers of 9mm foam like the -50c system.
its good in winter to oc, i hate summer and humid nights
it 29c now
i got some stuff today.
man i hate customs.
i then gave me favorite system a work over.
Last edited by kayl; 01-07-2005 at 09:28 AM.
Nice DT200 you got
Ive been using a wooden hold down on top of my direct die block and it gets water droplets on it, I just point a fan over it and it keeps it in check. I've found that condensation isint much of a problem unless its on your cpu/mobo.
thanxs
ouch moisture is a real pain some times, im just glad its not a problem all year round.
wood is good cause it doesnt wear.
do i have the condenser the right way up??
Last edited by kayl; 01-07-2005 at 10:22 AM.
ok this is after 30mins of prme.
evap -42c, -27c mother board monitor
room 30c
-50c pc asleep. -36c mother board monitor
-46c idle evap and idel suction line
my capillary line needs to be longer for the h22/502 compared to the old bbq r290, but i wont add a new bit of capillary line for a while, leave it the way it is.
i will be upgrading this unit in the months to come to be an autocascade.
i cant wait.
Last edited by kayl; 01-07-2005 at 10:34 PM.
I'm actually not sure which way up the condenser goes, i dont think it matters as long as the discharge of the compressor goes to the top and then your liquid line comes from the bottom. I've got the same condenser and their great, I've used one on a prommy clone and one on a waterchiller. The only problem is the fins get bent easily, but I guess thats the case with all condensers (except for one i made out of 25' of 1/4" tubing).
some are for another member of OCAU forums, and making a unit for a member in perth and for autocascade and cascade supa-deheaters.
i have been saving for ages for this.
more updates no load and idle temps now, little colder today.
Last edited by kayl; 01-09-2005 at 05:17 PM.
Ok I gave it the prime test yesterday, pority 10 with cpu-z running in background.
I had motherboard monitoring the cpu temps (start -36c die) and evap was at -50c.
Cpu was clocked at 2653 MHz and vcore set to max (that mobo can handle with over current protection kicking in) 1.95 V, chip set 1.8v and ram to 2.9v.
After 1hour evap was holding -46.7c (suction line -23.7c) , then even after 1hr and 48mins it was still holding -46.7 suction line -23.8c still has the same supa heat value and cpu die temps holding -31c/-32c very stable. I reckon as long as room conditions stayed they same this thing could prime like this for hours.
I’m a happy camper. These condenser handle a decent heat load.
Very nice indeed i guess a few OCAU members will have a nice toy to play with soon
more pics are always welcomed
---
is that de-electric grease or did you use superglue on the back of that moboupdate, i got 2.7GHZ at 2.1v vcore on the sempron.
i managed to get an old epox 8rd3a+ erlier revision mobo that just kept dieing.
i mangaed to get it to run for a few days now.
best of all i can uses up to 2.2v vcore, other mobo had current limiting issues.
i have pulled mobo apart and did a little sealing.
cause i had some conformal coating on there before. i gave it a good topup.
30c in the room and condensation is forming in some places.
i need airconditioner its too hot.
in the cooler months basically no condensation, which is better.
thanx, yeah 2 in perth/austraila hopefully if all goes well.Very nice indeed i guess a few OCAU members will have a nice toy to play with soon
more pics are always welcomed
its conformal coating, and it doesnt come off, that mobo is faulty and doesnt really work properly, thats why i did it, normally i use dielectric grease
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