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Thread: R9 290 sem-ghetto VRM-block?

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by felix_w View Post
    I believe the microSW-X comes in two versions, the 40mm long and the 60mm long.

    If i am correct, the widht does not exceeed 15-16mm, so the short version and a custom cut copper plate might do the job...if the space between the caps exceeds 60mm, it might be a tight fit for the long version also...

    Contact Watercool, to give you exact dimensions and maybe a 1:1 drawing like the other ones they have in their download page. Print, cut and do some test fitting...

    One more thing, the copper plates come in two versions one 80x30mm with 2 mounting threads for the 40mm version and one 100x40mm for the 60mm version...it seems that the hole distance on the PCB might be covered only by the 100x30mm plate...
    Thanks I spent an hour and a half googling without noticing your post, and found some of this info, but not all. I think the only backplate that's useful here is the G3 one, so that complete set is probably the easiest (if it works). I would think one can mod the G2 backplate to fit the 60mm version, but if it's not needed... why bother :p The G2 is definately long enough (I don't get the 30mm/40mm part... the plates are not 30mm/40mm wide? According to Heatkiller they're 14.5mm, and the block itself is 16.5mm wide).
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by knopflerbruce View Post
    Thanks I spent an hour and a half googling without noticing your post, and found some of this info, but not all. I think the only backplate that's useful here is the G3 one, so that complete set is probably the easiest (if it works). I would think one can mod the G2 backplate to fit the 60mm version, but if it's not needed... why bother :p The G2 is definately long enough (I don't get the 30mm/40mm part... the plates are not 30mm/40mm wide? According to Heatkiller they're 14.5mm, and the block itself is 16.5mm wide).

    The blocks you're looking at are for mainboard VRMs. The proper ones ( the one's matching the GPU Block) are the ones on this page.

    After reading the above link, the dimensions i posted before will make sense.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by felix_w View Post
    The blocks you're looking at are for mainboard VRMs. The proper ones ( the one's matching the GPU Block) are the ones on this page.

    After reading the above link, the dimensions i posted before will make sense.
    Yep, they do. Didn't think of that, tbh :p But, do I have to add g1/4 threads on my own, then?
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by knopflerbruce View Post
    Yep, they do. Didn't think of that, tbh :p But, do I have to add g1/4 threads on my own, then?
    If you mean that the gpu VRM block doesn;t seem to have threaded holes, then it's probably the photo...it's too dark to see them...

    Quote Originally Posted by knopflerbruce View Post
    I like that all the VRMs are 0.26mm. No need for a thermal pad I'm not sure if the screw pattern is the same on all of these bottom plates (I think this is a stock photo) http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wate...Products/79272 then there will still be at least two holes left to secure the block, which is enough Also, there will be at least 0.25mm clearance from the block down to the tallest cap... maybe I should try to shave a mm off the block, but not sure if it's needed. Will find out when I get the parts... Some non-conductive tape or similar is probably a good idea to avoid more fireworks :p

    Anything not sorted out yet...? I think I'm ready to order, no...?
    Again, you're looking at a mainboard's VRM bottom plate, not sure these are compatible with the GPU VRM block.

    E-mail Watercool support, so that you have exact dimensions of the GPU VRM block and plates. I guess that you will have to use a 1mm thick thermal pad in order to be sure that every component is protected and in contact.
    Last edited by felix_w; 08-23-2014 at 05:47 AM.

  5. #5
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    Ouch Some thermal tape could be used, but some SHRRR SHRRR will also work, as cutting in the buttom plate (which is a couple mm thick - at least 1.65mm, to be precise) is completely safe. You feel like measuring the height difference between the SMDs (?) and the VRMs, too?
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