Henrik
A Dane Down Under
Current systems:
EVGA Classified SR-2
Lian Li PC-V2120 Black, Antec 1200 PSU,
2x X5650 (20x 190 APPROX 4.2GHZ), CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-D14
(48gb) 6x 8Gb Kingston ECC 1333 KVR1333D3D4R9S/8GI, Boot: 8R0 SAMSUNG 830 129GB ARECA 1882IX-4GB CACHE - Scratch disk: 2x6R0 INTEL 520 120GB's, 2x IBM M1015/LSI 9240-8i, Asus GTX-580
ASUS P5W64 WS PRO, QX-6700 (Extreme Quadcore) 2.66Ghz, 4x2GB HyberX, various hard drives and GT-7600
Tyan S2895 K8WE 2x 285 Opteron's 8x 2gb DDR400 1x nVidia GT-8800 2x 1 TB Samsung F1 (not very nice) Chenbro SR-107 case
Monitors: NEC 2690v2 & Dell 2405 & 2x ASUS VE246H
Intel C2Q Q9550 2.83ghz :: Intel DQ45CB :: 4 x 2gb OCZ DDR2 PC2-8500 Reaper HPC :: ASUS EAH5850 :: Thermaltake TR2 RX 750w :: Western Digital Caviar Black 4 x 750gb in RAID 10
Intel e3-1235 3.3ghz :: Intel s1200kp :: 4gb kingston hyperX 1600mhz :: WD 500gb Cavier Green
Intel i7-3770k 4.4ghz :: msi z77ma-g45 :: 8 gb patriot Signature 1600mhz :: 160gb WD Cavier :: 5830 + 5870 CF :: Antec Earthwatts 650w
"...all men die, and no brave man lets death frighten him from his desire..."
Hi, thanks sending me the file,
here are a couple of screen grabs that I made while looking at the file.
The above is from Adobe Camera RAW CS6 beta - looking at them online, they look a lot darker then when viewed through any of the applications, and the goes for all three images
this is the default settings for View NX2
the last one here I have used the "use grey point" to select the color balance, which does give it a bit more neutral look but also makes the sky have a blue tint.
Now, I had written something very profound but lost it... so this just a little run down.
You did expose the image manually as you said and when looking through the view finder you should have had a little indicator with +/- that shows where the exposure would be compare to "Correct exposure - for middle grey (128,128,128)" in this case you should have seen something like -1 or -1 1/2 stop under exposed, which would have given you the correct exposure. this is where the sky isn't completely rendered black (deep dark blue'ish)
So what i had intended to say was that, you can manipulate the images color via White Balance in the Nikon Software and increase or decrease the exposure and contrast till you get what you think is pleasing - you can see something similar in my first image from Adobe Camera Raw... to without know any better I would make the image as neutral as possible, but when you took the photo there may have been a hit of color in those clouds, but only know...or you could just add color to those clouds as if there were indeed color in them.
When you shoot raw you have the opportunity to improve the images over what was taken, but its not a straight science its very subjective, but first you need to know how to use the tools... so spend some time with the Nikon software or better yet, get a better software with gives you easier and more access to control the image. If you do not want to spend any money on it, there is RAWTrapeze i think its called, or if you have Photoshop, then you will have Adobe Camera RAW, Now I am not sure if this is available in the Element version.
All the best, please do not hesitate to ask any question
Henrik
Last edited by tived; 04-24-2012 at 09:09 PM.
Henrik
A Dane Down Under
Current systems:
EVGA Classified SR-2
Lian Li PC-V2120 Black, Antec 1200 PSU,
2x X5650 (20x 190 APPROX 4.2GHZ), CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-D14
(48gb) 6x 8Gb Kingston ECC 1333 KVR1333D3D4R9S/8GI, Boot: 8R0 SAMSUNG 830 129GB ARECA 1882IX-4GB CACHE - Scratch disk: 2x6R0 INTEL 520 120GB's, 2x IBM M1015/LSI 9240-8i, Asus GTX-580
ASUS P5W64 WS PRO, QX-6700 (Extreme Quadcore) 2.66Ghz, 4x2GB HyberX, various hard drives and GT-7600
Tyan S2895 K8WE 2x 285 Opteron's 8x 2gb DDR400 1x nVidia GT-8800 2x 1 TB Samsung F1 (not very nice) Chenbro SR-107 case
Monitors: NEC 2690v2 & Dell 2405 & 2x ASUS VE246H
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