Laing DDC pump repair PCB mod

[lowfat]

Well if you do definitely post your findings. I'd love to be able to get these pumps working again.

[cka3o4nuk]

@cka3o4nuk does it work with the sanyo pcb and the blue rotor?

only on 5v

[glide 1]

does not support mcp350 pumps with the coil wires on the inside of the pcb. (blue rotor)

The issue you are having with the pump rotor not moving or vibrating, is caused by the coils "firing" incorrectly. Not the soldering. (btw: i have also tried switching the wire pairs around)

Ill post more info later.

xcooling - Would appreciate some more info on this. I have an 18w pcb coming which i will try to repair a blue impeller pump with.

So your saying that this diagram posted by wizard1238 will not work? this is how i would have wired it. http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/15ad...8d62155880.jpg

[xcooling]

Tested and NOT working:

wiring the coils as the diagram indicates
reversing the wires of individual coils.
wiring the coils in pairs as they are stock.
wiring opposite coils with each other
wiring every 2nd coils
wiring 2 coils together

I have also tested inverting the board

You will need to add a resistor (50K) or a 100K pot and cut the bridge on the pcb between VSP and Vref (otherwise u will melt the ic)

[lowfat]

Hats off to you xcooling, sounds like you tried damn near every combination possible. Really sounds like it isn't possible with this PCB.

[xcooling]

Original Install on a DDC3.1 / MCP350

I inverted the pcb to expose the IC, so that i can stick a heatsink on it. coil wire pairs were swapped around due to the board being inverted.

this should of worked, as it follows the guide 100%.

All the joins were tested and cleaned with acetone after soldering to prevent any shorts.

does NOT work, (i later tested it without inverting the board and swaping the coil wires, does NOT work either)

[xcooling]

These are pics of trying to find a possible solution..

Tested and NOT working:
wiring the coils as the diagram indicates
reversing the wires of individual coils.
wiring the coils in pairs as they are stock.
wiring opposite coils with each other
wiring every 2nd coils
wiring 2 coils together
I have also tested inverting the board
You will need to add a resistor (50K) or a 100K pot and cut the bridge on the pcb between VSP and Vref (otherwise u will melt the ic)

Every combination i tried.. did NOT work.

conclusion.. does NOT work

[xcooling]

I bought the pre-soldered board from him.

Ive attached pics of the board and pump i used.

[Martinm210]

Perhaps there are different DDC3.2s?

I've got one of each of the DIY pcbs as well as one of each pump already modded.

Here is the blue impeller version and it seems to work fine. Starts around 6V and works clear up to and beyond12V. Planning to do some testing and also installing of the PCB myself.

Not sure this helps any, but this is how the working DDC3.2 flavor looks with the mod installed.

There is no sticker on the pump, but it does have a blue impeller and it was one of the volume compensator types that was removed (that's what the oring is for, seals against a block off plate).

I did a quick test and it does seem to operate fine, so I'm going to add an RPM wire and do some tests..

[xcooling]

To the best of my knowledge the volume compensator types are from a MAC G5's.

orientation of the pcb doesnt matter if the coil wires are swiched around. I also tested it the right way.

On a mcp355, the ic will overheat if you do not use a resistor. (in 15seconds it will read 85degC+)

[lowfat]

Perhaps there are different DDC3.2s?

I've got one of each of the DIY pcbs as well as one of each pump already modded.

Here is the blue impeller version and it seems to work fine. Starts around 6V and works clear up to and beyond12V. Planning to do some testing and also installing of the PCB myself.

Not sure this helps any, but this is how the working DDC3.2 flavor looks with the mod installed.

There is no sticker on the pump, but it does have a blue impeller and it was one of the volume compensator types that was removed (that's what the oring is for, seals against a block off plate).

I did a quick test and it does seem to operate fine, so I'm going to add an RPM wire and do some tests..

Did you add a resistor to Vref or anything? That does look how I had mine soldered, but all it would do is misfire.

If you were able to get it to work properly I will definitely be looking forward to your results.

[mochti01]

The 18W board from diyinhk works fine with ma blue rotor Laing. No idea what you are doing wrong. It must be a fault at soldering the chip. I tested 5 pumps and all work great. I will make a video tomorrow. The noise without a resistor between VSP und Vref is enormous. You have to break the connection between the two contacts and put a 33K resistor between it than it would slow the pump down.

[lowfat]

Well that is definitely some good news to know that it works properly on the blue rotor DDC's. I guess I'll just buy another couple PCB's and give it a try.

[mochti01]

Buy a presoldered PCB. They are tested and should work with your pump. I will also test the green PCBs tomorrow. I will put a 0,1 Ohm resistor to each coil. Then they should have the same resistance as the black rotors coils and the pcb might not explode. I keep you posted.

Edit: Just saw the presoldered 18W pcbs are sold out

Edit 2: I can solder you one if you want. Shipping to USA is only 5$

Edit 3: Also to Canada

Edit 4: Also tetesd it a night on 12V without a resistor between VSP and Vref and it did not overheat. Performance was amazing!! 200l/h with one modded pump in my system. Before I had around 190l/h with 2 MCP355.

[Martinm210]

Did you add a resistor to Vref or anything? That does look how I had mine soldered, but all it would do is misfire.

If you were able to get it to work properly I will definitely be looking forward to your results.

I didn't do anything, that was one of his pre-modded pumps, but it doesn't appear to have any resistor in place.

[Martinm210]

Oh...my.......oh my...I see a lot of PSI...

[Church]

I'm guessing guy that thought out this PCB just didn't went for artificially limiting rpm-s like Laing did.
Kind of like Laing DDC, not D5, Strong
I wonder how are things noise-wise with higher rpm-s though.

[lowfat]

Buy a presoldered PCB. They are tested and should work with your pump. I will also test the green PCBs tomorrow. I will put a 0,1 Ohm resistor to each coil. Then they should have the same resistance as the black rotors coils and the pcb might not explode. I keep you posted.

Edit: Just saw the presoldered 18W pcbs are sold out

Edit 2: I can solder you one if you want. Shipping to USA is only 5$

Edit 3: Also to Canada

Edit 4: Also tetesd it a night on 12V without a resistor between VSP and Vref and it did not overheat. Performance was amazing!! 200l/h with one modded pump in my system. Before I had around 190l/h with 2 MCP355.

One of the PCB's I purchased was pre soldered. And it is the one I am having issues with. Ive redone my soldering three times and nothing worked.

Oh...my.......oh my...I see a lot of PSI...

Can't wait for results.

[Sparky]

The message i got from the seller was these do not work on the blue impeller version of the pump and is ment for 3.1 only. From what i can tell no one has gotten it to work on a 3.2 which is more comen and std 18w. This really high rpm has not even shown which i want to see

These DDCs I can't seem to quite keep straight. I thought the 3.1 was the same as the 3.2, only difference being the jumper wire in place or not.

[Martinm210]

This is what I have so far...not quite done with this or the Sanyo/DDC1 flavor yet.


12V detail:
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...a12v-xspc1.png

9V is about the same as a DDC3.25.

To be continued...

Not quite sure what to make of the RPM frequency...my best guess is RPM = Hz x 10, but that's just a guess trying to match up similar pressures. The normal Hzx30 gives you huge numbers which don't make sense.

Cheers!
Martin

[Martinm210]

FYI, also found this:
http://www.toshiba-components.com/mo...20_080424_.pdf

[Church]

62% over 3.25?! That's way more then D5 Strong or DDC2, isn't it? Huh, you got mini iwaki on hands

[Martinm210]

I'd also like to better understand the variable resistor deal between VSP and Vref. What sort of variable resistor should go between these?

[Martinm210]

62% over 3.25?! That's way more then D5 Strong or D2, isn't it? Huh, you got mini iwaki on hands

And it'll do more than 12V if you give it to her..lol

It is pushing upwards of 2.5 amps with just 12V though and I am a bit paranoid about heat. Supposedly the Toshiba manual says Tjmax is 150C...so maybe I worry too much?

[Church]

Martinm210: and how noise subjectively seems with that high rpms relative to common DDCs/D5s?
As for heat, imho no need for much worries. Weren't fets that overheated most on stock DDC PCB?