Yours looks similar to mine in that the coils are soldered to the inside of the pcb. Chances are you will run in to the same issues of mine.Originally Posted by serialk11r
I haven't given up yet though. I will take it apart and redo everything. Maybe I have a wire backwards or something. I'll likely just order a couple of MCP35x in case I can't get it working though.
Not sure about the DDC-2, I just heard the windings are different(longer) between the revisions.
bmaverick has new old stock DDC-1's if you want them.
Have you put a resistor between VSP and Vref?
I didn't but I did try running the pump @ 5V and 7V and they didn't work either. Once I get the pumps working I will be hooking them up to a BigNG so I shouldn't have a problem keeping them below 2.5A.
12V should work, the pump cannot start at 7V.
try to check the coil ending is not reverse connected.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=115
If the extended coil wire is long enough, the pcb can also place outside the pump housing.
Last edited by wizard1238; 03-25-2011 at 08:06 PM.
Well I removed the pcb and redid everything again. This time using longer wires and gauranteeing that I had it soldered right. I have it exactly like how the picture above. I powered it up without the casings to see what it did. The pump does not move at all. But it is doing something as you can feel it vibrate and make noise.
is it connect like this
Last edited by wizard1238; 03-26-2011 at 12:34 AM.
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the sanyo PCB is designed for the black rotor DDC. It cannot be use in the blue rotor DDC3, it will overheat and the chip will explode when connect the 12V power
how can it be doneuse extra resistor in series with the coil
Last edited by wizard1238; 03-26-2011 at 03:18 AM.
@cka3o4nuk does it work with the sanyo pcb and the blue rotor?
That is exactly how it is connected.
Last edited by lowfat; 03-26-2011 at 07:47 AM.
1. the yellow circle may have chance short circuit together. the painting of the metal core is not hard enough.
2. the red circle and some wire ending is long enough connect to the pcb directly, it will be more tidy.
3. the green circle look like a bad soldering join, the gold plated surface is still be seem? it's will be better to use flux
hope everyone success
Even after pulling the wires up and touching up the solder it doesn't work. I've been talking to someone else and he believes the stepped motors are not firing in the correct sequence. I would really like to know if anyone else has tried to install this PCB on a DDC3.1/3.2 to see if they had similar issues.
When I get home on monday I'll see if I can get it working. Though I've never done drag soldering before, so hopefully I don't screw up.
Lowfat you should tin your wires (if you did, then twist them before you tin) and use a little flux before soldering. It'll help the solder flow a little better so you have better joints. Also clean and tin your soldering iron here n there. If you take a look at cka3o4nuk's soldering job, you can see how the solder joints are nice and shiny, as dull usually means a dry or cold joint. Looks like you're trying to heatsoak to get that solder to stick and a tiny bit of flux will help with that.
Have you checked all your connections with a multimeter? When testing it are you running it at 12v with water in the tubing? Since I think water is supposed to lube up the impeller. Do you have an aftermarket top? Just trying to figure out if the issue is the TB6588 is going into protection mode where it resets over and over or if its some other cause.
Hello,
I've upped some pics of my two pumps I had apart.
The blue impeller one is considered as working, the red impeller is surely dead (the impeller doens't spin, I can hear a click but I didn't measure if it's powered).
Hope this help identifying your pump revisions.
BTW, can anyone confirm the DYINHK kit is good for my red impeller Laing?
This kit looks like an upgrade to the original, hope there'll be soon some for the blue ones, since I have two of them...
Hmm... I may have to order one of these and try it on a DDC-1 pump. It just looks like too much fun to resist..
ordered the sanyo kit for a 10w laing aswell as an 18w version for a burnt blue impeller pump. Will report back if i get this to work, quite excited to recieve these. The only problem i see is the length of the wire, might have to extend it so that it can be soldered to the traces on the outer side of the pcb.
I almost want to order one as well to see if it is user error that is causing me not to get this DDC3.1 to work.Hmm... I may have to order one of these and try it on a DDC-1 pump. It just looks like too much fun to resist..
Martin, I have a package of two DDC-1 pumps that have only dead PCB, the coil is fully intact and I've included all the other hardware and more. It should be mailed out this week for you.Hmm... I may have to order one of these and try it on a DDC-1 pump. It just looks like too much fun to resist..
I have dozens of surplus "new" DDC-1 pumps. Very few are non-functional to mod with this PCB upgrade. To bad I'm not the worlds best solder master, else I would convert a fleet of DDC-1 pumps. :P
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Awesome, thanks!Martin, I have a package of two DDC-1 pumps that have only dead PCB, the coil is fully intact and I've included all the other hardware and more. It should be mailed out this week for you.
I have dozens of surplus "new" DDC-1 pumps. Very few are non-functional to mod with this PCB upgrade. To bad I'm not the worlds best solder master, else I would convert a fleet of DDC-1 pumps. :P
I will report back how the modification goes and put together a little blog of the process.
...need a hand?
Well, a dead DDC-1 + PCB mod + DYI could be cheaper than buying a new one, and performing better.
mmmm.... i want 2 to play with.. :P
But i think i only have 1 DDC-1. And im very bad with soldering.. lol...
I threw out all the ones that died out thinking repair was almost impossible.
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does not support mcp350 pumps with the coil wires on the inside of the pcb. (blue rotor)
The issue you are having with the pump rotor not moving or vibrating, is caused by the coils "firing" incorrectly. Not the soldering. (btw: i have also tried switching the wire pairs around)
Ill post more info later.
That is what I've been told as well. I was hoping someone else had tried it on a DDC3.1 so I know it wasn't a mistake of mine.
ive tried it 2x, so its not ur soldering. (btw: all my joins are insulated and tested)
Right now im testing a totally different way of wiring the coils, way more complex, but im sure ill get it working.
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