watercool ARC1880IX-12

[Waterlogged]

the only thing is this...i have no idea how to solder/unsolder. also, that will void warranty im sure.

@caveman...i cant order off there. i cant read it! and i tried google translate but none of the site buttons work when i use it, seriously sucks i have a ton of gear headed this way to rework my total watercooling system, and this could hold me up big time!

At the bottom of the page you'll see 2 small images of the planet and a German flag next to each other, click on the planet and that switches the text to English. If you look just below the product menu box, you'll see where it says ">>Questions? Leave a message<<", click on that and leave them your e-mail and let them know that your interested in getting something from the German site but are unable to order it due to "limitations" on yours and Google's part.

[baldux]

Or mail Michael from Mips directly:
info@mips-computer.de
vertrieb@mips-computer.de

[eXa]

Im with NaeKuh on this one. It doesnt take alot of wattage the heat thoose small heatsinks to 75c. All you need is some better heatsinks.

Power Requirement:
1.11W max. +3.3V
16.92W max. +12V

[Computurd]

yeah it isnt a big load but... if i leave the fan off it gets quite hot. using the raid manager when the card is being used it is hitting 80C @idle. also, i have a digital sensor from my tbalancer on there and it is picking up some very high temps @ the heatsink level. with the digital sensors i am getting 77.5 on the ROC, and 62 on the expander.
oh well this arrived this morning! the gummy bears is a nice treat, wow!


it is heavier than i expected. for this reason i will probably stick with just one block for the ROC, and look for other heatsink for the expander. surely there are some specific air heatsinks for the 1231 out there somewhere...hell theres a block for it
a big goal is to have them be able to maintain single slot. the ones NaeKuh linked above are 1 inch high, so they would hit next slot...but definitely the right idea.

[Waterlogged]

Careful with the Koolai...er...I mean Gummy bears. Never know what they may be spiked with...they may make you buy more from that place.

As for the tall heat sinks, you could use wire cutters on them to cut them to size...or do what we used to do with RAM sinks on VGA cards back in the day...bend them so they were no longer in the way. We even went so far as to give the way we bent them hairstyle names.

[Computurd]

We even went so far as to give the way we bent them hairstyle names.

ROFL! i dunno man i got an email from the guy in germany about the second waterblock...and these gummy bears are tasting really good....

[Computurd]

yeah i forgot just how hot this B*tch runs..ive had two 120 fans on it all these months, turning them off .....here is the internal monitoring on the card itself, and my digital temp probes concur with these temps on the HS as well. they are HOT to the touch as well! guess i may need that second waterblcok as well...

[NaeKuh]

:O i dont see any green gummy bears!

[eva2000]

75c - wow didn't realise it gets that hot!!!

[Computurd]

areca says its safe up to 90C, but right now its idling around 85 with no fan. this should work for expander....

[NaeKuh]

http://www.jab-tech.com/Enzotech-Low...1-pr-3977.html



They take standard 3 pin connectors.

There u got active + full copper... u wanna ask for more? the I/O Gods might call ya greedy. :X

also computard... if you ask me.. i would first try to DREMEL the block so that speaker can clear b4 u hack the speaker.
Its far less costly to replace the block, then it is to replace the card.

Also have you thought about using a spacer to give the block a bit more lift height?
Seeing how its just the core which needs to be touched, a shim between the die and the block would work.
This is a IO controller card, not a GPU or CPU.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/28...et_Spacer.html


like this.. to lift the block up a little.
And it seems like you just need a milimeter or 2 at most.

Or you can find a pure copper coin and lap it to flatness..
OR find a hacked IHS and lap that.

75c - wow didn't realise it gets that hot!!!

Dude they get ridiculously hot if left passive.

I think most controller cards of this size were meant for U4 cases with high powered san aces screaming air inside the system.

[Computurd]

I think most controller cards of this size were meant for U4 cases with high powered san aces screaming air inside the system.

yeah areca rates them @ 90C! that is unbelievable to me. i mean thats hot as hell! that is a nice HS that has the fan mount. the spacer is an excellent idea! i am not going to place a waterblock on the heatsink with the buzzer, it is an expander chip, and not as crazy with the heat as the ROC that is by the pci bracket.
but i am having issue with the chip i am trying to cool, and this spacer could come in quite handy. there is a swivel 90 that comes out of my second GPU right where the block will come off of the card, and there is just BARELY not enough room for the block with a plug in that side of it. these pics illustrate the close proximity of said 90.
now my initial idea to avoid this problem was to buy two different 90's that appear to have a bit of a lower profile, as in the last pic you can see how the block will lay a bit over the edge of the card, and i have to put some plugs on the other side of the areca waterblock right where that 90 is. also, there is a thought to put the 90 on the inside of the GPU, however, that 90 is too big for that. so dunno this is a obstruction and your mention of the spacer helps to alleviate this issue! the 90's should be here tommorow, and if they arent small enough to fit between the GPU's then i will be ordering the spacer stat!
lol the guys at frozencpu are gonna think im big time retarded. that would be like my fourth order so far! shipping is kickin my ass

[Computurd]

HOUSTON we have a problem....
this is the screw that mounts to the block...it has to come from the rear side of the card and this is not good. there is also a washer i need to fit in there, but obviously if the screw doesnt fit...

[felix_w]

Maybe a small custom backplate will do the trick...

[NaeKuh]

do it the old way we used to do it.

Get a Plastic washer to raise the height so you can screw it in and have the standoff push down on the card, instead of the bolt head pushing down on the card.

So Block (Card) (standoff) (Bolt)

Should raise the base of the bolt so u can screw it down and go over the ram.


And sorry to say this, but u have been having nothing but FAIL on that MIPS block.

At this point, i would chug it and look for another solution.
If you have to mod the block so much to get it to work, whats the point in the block.

I think you could of sent the card out to a friend of mine, and had him custom you a full card one for almost the same as 2 of those blocks, and not have installation problems.
If i was in your shoes, i would of probably asked Bei, or drive out to Iandh, bribe him with lunch, to go out of his sabbatical.

But dude.. MIPS = FAIL in this solution. Sorry SiX, this block just doesnt work.

[Computurd]

this block just doesnt work.

Not to be arrogant or anything, but i dont give up this easily. not by a long shot. this will work. i will make it so.


the fun for me is in conquering the obstacles, and trying to do something that either hasnt been, or shouldnt be, done. yeah, many have watercooled raid cards.
but not this one, and not using this block.
since there isnt a commercially available block we will be forced to blaze the trail. with your excellent guidance though!
wouldnt be this far without you and WL help thats for sure.

[Computurd]

modified some shims, Ace is the Place i found another fastener
after first shim

second shim gives oh so close clearance

[Waterlogged]

Hmm, You got me wondering if that block can be used on old 2 hole push pin nVidia cards? ...and skinnee...shut up!

[Computurd]

thats a good question!

so i have the block on there for the most part, dissasembling my current loop i have spotted something down in my full board EK block. so....its green which is VERY not good....i removed the bridge on it, and it is definitely down in there. my question is this:

can i remove the entire top of the EK full board classified block while it is still connected to the mobo? without reinstalling the whole thing? man ive had to install that thing on two boards and its a PITA and i dont want to mess with it just wanna pull the entire top off....but i know with flexing and things of that nature took into consideration...should it be done?

[Computurd]

looks scary actually....

[Waterlogged]

Here's a question that may determine your answer.

Do you want to mess with the o-ring for the top with the block still attached to the board?

[Computurd]

that is a question i am not sure of. i have never done it. i am taking it that i dont want to? but theoretically if i was 'very skillful' it could be done, right?
man this might be corrosion. this is ugly.

[Waterlogged]

They can be troublesome for some, especially first timers. Looks like some of the plating is missing, hard to make out the rest.

[Computurd]

well seeing as i like to do things the hard way the first time, and then the easy way after i learn my lesson we will have some pics here in a second

[Computurd]

damn this is terrible. has to be some type of record for the amount of corrosion here. im assuming this is caused from corrosion. the other side of the block is just fine. nothing on it. what are my options?
it isnt deep, its like right on the surface. seriously depressed here.