watercool ARC1880IX-12

[Computurd]

ok so ive been kicking around this idea to watercool my areca 1880IX-12. there are two HS on the device itself.
this thing is no slouch. it kicks off some serious heat. it will run @ 75C idle on the ROC with no air on the HS. also, the expander (the HS near the rear of the card) will run @ 65C idle. so i have two fans on the side of my rig pointed directly at these HS, and i am trying to go completely silent.
i am contemplating getting the new EK ram sink for my Doms' as well, and putting these two into a loop for themselves, with just a single 120 rad on them. The main reason for the separation of them onto their own loop is i switch gear alot. i dont want to deal with the headache of connecting/disconnecting this big ol loop everytime i switch GPU/CPU, so best to keep those separate.

however, i need ideas on where to even find a block for this beast, and the feasibility of this. gimme some criticism here plz




some varied pics here...
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=258008

might use one of these until i find a good smaller pump. bought one but turned out to be a fake

[Waterlogged]

Don't think your going to find a "specific" block that fits but something like Koolance's GPU-210, Swiftech's MCW-30 or Enzotech's SNBW-SLI should fit but, you'll need 2 blocks.

[Computurd]

ok so its definitely between that koolance and the enzo. that enzo is damn sexy, but the koolance matches my pump/res and also has the side ports that could make tubing a breeze between the two of them. then again some rotaries on the top of that enzo would do it. time to so some measuring i guess....

[Conumdrum]

Fans. You run any spot fans on it or is it time for a new WC project? Bet some neat 80mm fans on the HS at low rpm would make all the diff. Typical 4 spot superglue on top of each HS would do wonders.

[Utnorris]

I cooled my Perc5i card using the Koolance CHC-122 MB for awhile. Now, while it is not necessary, I found that having just a large heatsink on it was not enough, so it was either water cool it or use a fan directly on it. With my current loop there is not an easy way for me to integrate it into the loop, so I am using a fan at a low setting which isn't loud. The main issue is how to mount it. It looks like you have push pins that go all the way through the PCB, so it should be easy, mine only had the loops which is why I did the CHC-122 block. For what it is worth, the Enzotech will work also. Here is a couple pics of what it looked like when I had it setup.





As far as the memory goes, again, not necessary, but it does reduce the fan noise. A single 120mm rad should be more than enough for both.

[asura]

The passive sink looks about the size of EK's universal chip-set blocks; and if there isn't one who's mounting holes line up, you can always make a new top out of some 8mm acetal/derlin with the mounting holes in the riht place.

[PiLsY]

Heatkiller NB/SB and SB SLI should fit no problem. Just throwing another option in there .

[caveman_2]

not sure if this mips block would fit but could be worth checking out Mips Areca 12xx ml


fairly sure couple of these would fit though areca raid

[Tetrafluorometh]

Get on eBay and get some old school GPU block, DD Maze perhaps?

[Computurd]

I cooled my Perc5i card using the Koolance CHC-122 MB for awhile.

looks good, but i do have a question here....it looks like there is only one tube going in? Water isnt going in and out?
im a WC noob so help me out

time for a new WC project?

yeah getting bored waiting on some new SSD and controllers to come out, so time to mess with something that is perfectly fine as it is!

@ caveman2...thanks man! i wasnt even aware of that type of block! that is a helluva find!

So i am contemplating alot about this setup and thinking of how to get this done. Two very big considerations here is
*tubing could be a huge PITA going from two blocks. thats why this one looked so attractive to me, it also has side ports, chance to run a tube straight out the top of the card on the expander HS, and inbetween the two blocks straight across the card in the middle. however, still the issue of how to get tubing out?



*also i need a single slot solution. i love tri-sli. and this raid card gets down inbetween cards in certain setups. i dotn think with the depth of this one that it will remain single slot capable.

this though (courtesy of caveman) is looking to be the ticket! i will have to get with stevero and ask him about the spacing on the 1231 HS and see if it is the same as the 1880. i believe he still has both, but if it works this looks to be the clear winner~!

[penguins]

Let us know how it goes, this is so cool in a stupid way( no offense if you know what I mean ) if it works I'm so doing it lol

[Utnorris]

Yeah, I only had one tube connected when I took the pic. The other fitting is on the right there. I had to use two 90 degree fittings for it.

[Computurd]

yeah just waiting for a reply...might have to dig up some manuals of the 1231 and see if i can get some spacing info there...if it does work i will get one, and might not WC the expander. it doesnt get near as hot.

this is so cool in a stupid way

Lol exactly why im doing it! it a pretty expensive card so might as well trick it out

eah, I only had one tube connected when I took the pic. The other fitting is on the right there.

jesus im blind

[NaeKuh]

have you tried just using better sinks?

To be honest, i used to watercool my SAS card as well, and then well, its a PITFA.

Not saying you shouldnt try it, but have you considered 2 large sinks by enzo like this, and seeing if it solves your solution?



i am fairly sure one of the enzo brackets will fit that spacing.

This looks like it could work:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/encnfoconohe1.html

[shazza]

Funny - I just started searching for something like this in the last few days. Hope you have success!

[Computurd]

To be honest, i used to watercool my SAS card as well, and then well, its a PITFA.

yeah it probably will be, which is part of the motivation to keep it in a separate loop so as not to have to be messed with constantly. doing it more for the awesome factor than anything. i like those bigger HS but i also worry they might not be able to maintain my goal of it remaining a single slot solution. thanks for the link though, that is a fine looking cooler, i bet it would easily outperform the one i have on there

[baldux]

The Mips 12xx ML block will work on the 1880 as Areca still uses same spacing.
Altough you'll have to do some minor modification on back of the block on the left from your photo.
Without, the marked component is way to high (1-2mm) to achieve full coverage of the chip surface.

[Computurd]

Without, the marked component is way to high (1-2mm) to achieve straight coverage of the chip surface.

excellent news, thank you. i was actually just on the phone with SteveRo and receiving his measurements from tyhe 1231, and about to power off and check with my calipers

i see what you are talking about (the audible alarm) do you think i should remove it? many remove it anyways or plug it up with putty to shut that thing up. its loud as hell on bootup for sure! id o prefer to leave it on.
not sure if i want to remove it though, i actually prefer it, as it helped me to diagnose a problem a few months back....
are you suggesting modifying the block itself?
i am not sure if i am going to watercool that sink though. the HS i am thinking of doing first is the one on the right, that houses the ROC which is much hotter than the expander. not sure what i will do right now....i know im getting the mips for sure though for the ROC.

minor modification on back of the block

not sure by what you mean by this...please explain?

[baldux]

are you suggesting modifying the block itself?

Guess it's up to your needs. Alarm sound or not, that's the question.

not sure by what you mean by this...please explain?

If yes to alarm sound you'll just need to sand/dremel away about 1mm (still enough material there after) at the position where the blocks back hits the mentioned component.
It will not even need the full circle as the block ends at about the mid of the circular component surface.

Otherwise the better solution might be to use a 1mm thermal pad for the chip and you're fine out without sanding.
I've actually not mounted my blocks but I guess this might be the best solution.

[Computurd]

If yes to alarm sound you'll just need to sand/dremel away about 1-2mm at the position where the blocks back hits the mentioned component.

well i have a dremel, but man i am not sure about sanding on a waterblock....what if it goes to deep? also, there is a header there next to the buzzer, with ten pins sticking out. about .090 lower than the surface of the top of that buzzer. dont know about messing with those.

[baldux]

Ok, just had a detailed look and took some photos:
It needs about 0.5-1mm at two or one (thermal pad solution) place(s).

I forgot there's another clearance issue at the chip area too. But it's minor as the other one. Really, the photos are making it a bigger deal than it is in real.


Don't worry about the pin socket there, that area is clear except the mentioned alarm 'bumper' there.


Easy to desolder and backmount but I guess warranty is over than too.

[Computurd]

nice! man that looks good...i can see myself making it work. big problem though, i cant find it anywhere other than aqua, and i just bought their last one. cannot find this block anywhere spent much time googling until my fingers hurt. even went to MIPS site, and cant seem to find it. oh well one is inbound. i did email and ask them when it will be available. would be nice, and i have a ton of thermal pad, i always order a bunch when i get it, as it always seems to be out of stock.

[caveman_2]

i cant find it anywhere other than aqua, and i just bought their last one. cannot find this block anywhere spent much time googling until my fingers hurt. even went to MIPS site

you need to look at the german site for Mips

You'lll see a link for RAID-Controller Kühler, they've got 1 in stock for each type if thats what your after.

for what ever reason their euro site doesnt list some of the more unique stuff they make

[Alexandr0s]

Computurd, maybe this solution might work: Instead of removing the alarm, flip it over to the other side. If I remember correctly, most buzzers have only 2 soldering points. Just desolder those two, and move it to the backside of the board. There seems to be plenty of room there .

[Computurd]

the only thing is this...i have no idea how to solder/unsolder. also, that will void warranty im sure.

@caveman...i cant order off there. i cant read it! and i tried google translate but none of the site buttons work when i use it, seriously sucks i have a ton of gear headed this way to rework my total watercooling system, and this could hold me up big time!